

Trying to fix my uncle's Crosley Stack-o-Matic (CR89) speed issues
I know virtually nothing about turntables (though after a few days tinkering with one, I totally get it), but my uncle asked me to take a look at his cheap Crosley player, as it was playing slowly. I popped it open and found a lot of grease/buildup in the spindle bearing, so I cleaned that out and applied a few drops of thin clock oil. This helped significantly, though the sound / speed is still 'wavy' or inconsistent. The belt felt brittle, so I picked up a pack of belts to replace it. The sizes in the kit I bought aren't perfect: I measured the track circumference at 24.5" - 10% = ~7" diameter, and the closest belt was 6.875" ID (weird Amazon sizing), though this seems possibly close enough?
If I spin the platter with the belt removed, it only spins a few times before coming to a stop, so I wonder if maybe the bearing is the issue? As a kid, I remember these seeming to spin forever, but we probably had a nicer player with a lot more inertia back then, too! The bearing doesn't APPEAR damaged (just some very slight wear 'rings' in the bearing washers / races), but maybe I should consider replacing it?
Is it most likely the belt being too tight? The bearing needing replacement? Too much or too little oil? The ID of the platter needing cleanup? Am I out in left field? 😄
I'd love to get it working for him; any guidance would be SINCERELY appreciated!
Debating between two Toro Super Recyclers - 5 years old vs. 15 years old?
I've been was keeping my eye open for a fairly-priced, somewhat older Toro Super Recycler to replace my standard steel Recycler that is a bit older and beat up. Thus far I've been looking at models in the ~15 year old range.
Recently, however, a very fairly-priced model that is far newer (about 5 years old, the gray/black version) came up for sale near me.
I'm a bit of a they-don't-make-them-like-they-used to type, and I know that in general, the quality of these mowers has degraded over time. What I'd like some help with is understanding (preferably from someone with firsthand experience) if and how much the Super Recycler was cheapened during this period. Anecdotally, I've read posts where dealers stopped carrying them because of drops in quality, but I'm thinking that this period may be too short for any noticeable difference. Oh, and both of the units I'm looking at have the Honda GCV 160, so I'm really focused on the other components.
Any thoughts or recommendations are appreciated!
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For reference, here is what Gemini had to say on the subject:
Comparing a 5-year-old Toro Super Recycler (circa 2021) to a 15-year-old version (circa 2011) reveals a shift in manufacturing priorities. While the core "Super Recycler" identity—defined by the cast aluminum deck and the "kickers" for superior mulching—remains, there are notable differences in the auxiliary components and user interface.
1. Deck and Cutting System
- The Aluminum Deck: Both eras feature the signature rust-proof cast aluminum deck. This is the primary reason these mowers often last 20+ years.
- Vortex Technology (Newer): Newer models (2021) introduced the "Vortex" intake, which uses an air vent at the front of the deck to increase airflow. This is designed to stand the grass up for a cleaner cut and improve bagging performance. The 2011 version relies on a more traditional closed-deck vacuum effect.
- Plastic vs. Metal Kickers: The 2011 models typically used metal "accelerators" and kickers bolted into the deck. In more recent years, some internal deck components and baffles have transitioned to high-durability plastics.
2. Drive System and Controls
- Personal Pace Evolution: The core "Personal Pace" system is present in both, but the 2021 version is generally smoother. The 2011 model often featured a "sliding" handle that could feel a bit more mechanical or "notchy" compared to the more fluid, integrated handle design on the 5-year-old model.
- Handle Design: The newer version likely features the "Flex-Handle" or a more ergonomic vibration-reducing grip. 15 years ago, the handles were sturdier but transmitted more engine vibration to the user's hands.
3. Component Quality (The "Cost-Cutting" Factor)
- Wheel Bearings: This is the most significant quality dip. Many 2011-era Super Recyclers came with grease fittings (zerks) on the rear wheels, allowing for lifelong maintenance. By 2021, Toro moved almost exclusively to "sealed" bearings or bushings without grease ports, which are essentially designed to be replaced rather than serviced.
- Transmission Case: Older Super Recyclers often featured a more robust metal-housed transmission. Newer models frequently use a high-strength plastic (polymer) transmission housing. While reliable, the older metal versions are generally viewed by enthusiasts as more "bulletproof."
4. The Engine (Honda GCV160)
Since both have the GCV160, the engine performance will be nearly identical, but with a few era-specific changes:
- Auto-Choke: The 2021 model almost certainly has the Honda ACS (Auto Choke System), which eliminated the manual choke lever found on many 2011 models.
- Fuel Sensitivity: Older GCV160s (2011) were slightly more tolerant of lower-quality fuel. Newer versions have tighter carburation to meet stricter emissions standards, making them more prone to clogging if ethanol-blended gas is left to sit.
Summary Verdict
- The 15-Year-Old Version: Better for a "buy it for life" owner who enjoys maintenance (greasing wheels, servicing metal parts). It is built with fewer plastic substitutions.
- The 5-Year-Old Version: Offers a better user experience with reduced vibration, better airflow for bagging (Vortex), and a more refined self-propel feel, but it is built with more "disposable" (non-serviceable) components.
Speaker replacement?
I just bought a used Cozmo. He was working reasonably well, but didn’t have sound (yes, the app is not muted). I replaced his battery because he wasn’t holding much of a charge, and I noted that the connection to the speaker was…strange. It had two wires, but they seemed to be soldered together on the board. Anyone have any advice? Or a diagram? And maybe a replacement P/N for the speaker itself? Thanks!