u/theneedfull

I got the RG DS, and I designed a charging dock for it that uses a right angle USB adapter. I did the same for another Anbernic I have as well. I put it up on Etsy and it seems there is a little bit of interest in it, at least for the RG DS.

So that got me thinking that I could make docks for others too, but I can't really afford to buy a dozen handhelds to do it. So if anyone is willing, and you have a 3d printer and some calipers, I would love to design one for you to test out.

So last night, the printer had an hour left on a 3 hour print, and I went to bed. While I was in bed, the power dipped. I assumed the print was dead, and figured I'll just deal with it in the morning. So I woke up and there was a message asking if I wanted to try and save it. And it just worked. I only get like 1 or 2 of those blips a year but it's still nice to know the feature is there.

As the title states. I'm getting blobbing. I've done the flow(PA) calibration before the print. I've tried adjusting z-hop settings, wipe settings. I've reduced the flow on the prime tower, but nothing seems to work. I've confirmed that the printer, and the slicer are all set for .6mm nozzles.

I'm almost starting to think that the reason it worked on .4mm is that the stock nozzles are stainless steel, and the new ones are hardened. I did raise the temperature 3 degrees, but I'm not sure if that matters. Would raising it more help, or do you all think it would make it worse?

Also, are there any nickel plated brass hotends out there? I've found those work perfectly on my previous printers. Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Is anyone else having this issue on the .6mm nozzles?

So let me start by saying that I have no clue about how filament syncing or anything works. I have 8 other printers, but this this is my first multi filament printe, and all I have done is print the included dragon. I haven't had time to connect the printer to orcaslicer.

That said, I have seen a number of posts and comments asking if there is a way to filament sync in regular orca slicer. And I also noticed that the Orca alpha build specifically lists snapmaker filament syncing as a new feature/improvement.

So again, I have no clue if it works, but I figure some of you might have a few minutes to test it out.

Here's the text from the release notes for reference.

Improved SnapmakerPrinterAgent filament sync by @gaaat98 in #13265 Snapmaker filament syncing now matches against vendor-specific and custom filament presets using filament type, vendor name, and color distance for more accurate matching. Generic matching is kept as a fallback. Inspired by #13202.

So I've only noticed it twice so far, but I have no idea how long it happened for each time. I've had the phone for a month. But the vibration just stops working completely, until I reboot. I even tested it out at https://www.onlinemictest.com/vibration-test/ and it doesn't work there either. After a reboot, it works perfectly. I have made sure that the phone is on vibrate, and not mute. And even on sound on mode, it would make the notification sound, but no vibration.

I was just wondering if anyone else is having the issue, and if there was any fix for it. I am on the latest update that I received a couple days back. It happened once before the update(about 2 weeks ago), and once after, just today.

And if someone has a workaround where I can just restart some service or something instead of restarting the phone, that would be useful as well.