
Family Nerf War tomorrow.
Getting the armory organized for a family event tomorrow. Thought I'd share a quick Pic of my rival springers. Why? I don't know. Isn't that what we do here?

Getting the armory organized for a family event tomorrow. Thought I'd share a quick Pic of my rival springers. Why? I don't know. Isn't that what we do here?
That auto-buy order I posted about yesterday arrived today. Some folks in the comments expressed some skepticism, speculating that it might have been a scam, or that the shipping might take overly long. But the shipping was super fast and I got what I ordered.
I had never heard of the auto-buy feature before someone mentioned it a few days ago on this sub. I expect I'll be using it again next time I'm looking for a hard-to-find item like this. Overall I'm really happy with how this played out. Thanks again!
My dryer needs a new door switch. What places in the valley stock parts like that and sell to the public? Looks like Darrel's in smithfield might be an option. They don't open till 10:00 on Saturdays. Any other options for me?
Update: Darrell's had my part. Thanks for all the suggestions everybody.
Should I try to repair this? Am I better off buying a new print head? I don't mind opening up a can of elbow grease if this is salvageable. But it would be would nice to know what I'm in for before I get started. Are there any guides out there for disassembling this print head?
Seems pretty cool. Looks like it uses some gearing for mechanical advantage. I hope I can get one built soon after he releases it.
I picked up a used Nirve Fifty-Three beach cruiser for $20 at a thrift store. It needs a new rear hub: pedals would lock up any time i tried shifting from first to second gear. I decided to attempt to repair the hub, by following with a servicing video I found on YouTube, but I lost a pall spring in the process and I think my only option at this point is to buy a new hub. They're $40 - $50 on eBay, so I figure it's a reasonable purchase if it gets the bike up and running. (SG-3C41)
But right after I placed the order for the new hub it occurred to me that there might be a non-coaster brake version of the hub that would allow me to convert the bike to full freewheel, which I would enjoy a lot more. I recently moved to a small town that is completely flat. Shortly after moving here I bought a used cruiser with a coaster brake (different bike than the one this post is about). I enjoy riding around town with it, but I dont enjoy the coaster brake- it has given me a new appreciation for freewheel backpedaling and handbrakes.
So I went back and canceled the order for the new hub once I discovered there was in fact a non-braking version of the same hub (SG-3R40). This new (to me) Nirve Fifty-Three has a front hand brake in addition to the rear coaster brake (but no frame mounts for a rear brake). And that's where my question comes in: Will the front caliper brake provide me with adequate stopping power if I convert the rear hub to a non-braking version? Will I encounter any other unforseen negative consequences if I do this conversion? I don't mind restringing the rear wheel if the internals of the new hub don't match up with the old hub.
First off, thanks to everyone who replied to my request for help yesterday. I'm trying to get manual color changes to work on my N4+.
I got the manual filament swaps figured out, thanks to some good advice from my post yesterday. I'm trying to print a piece with two manual swaps- the first one is near the beginning of the print and the second is near the end of the print. The first swap went smoothly enough, but after I made the second swap and the print resumed, my extruder seems to have (possibly) lowered the Z height for some reason. I wasn't watching it when this happened, so this is only a guess based on what I can see on the print itself. The print has a vaguely nozzle-shaped divot, 2 or 3mm deep. This ultimately caused the print to break free from the bed after the extruder and bed continued moving with the extruder that low.
So now I'm back here asking for more help. Is my assumption correct? Did the extruder reduce its Z-height for some reason? If so, what would cause this and how can I prevent it in the future? If not, what really happened? And how do I keep it from happening on future prints?
On my Prusa Mk3S I can add a manual filament change at a specific layer when slicing. The printer pauses when it completes this layer and I can manually change the filament to a new desired color.
Is this possible on the Neptune 4 printers? (Mine's a 4 Plus.) I added a pause in Orca slicer, but the printer doesn't seem to want to allow me to change the filament. While paused I entered the Settings menu, selected the Filament section and pressed "Unload", but nothing happens. I pressed it several times, but no luck.
Is this type of manual filament change possible, or is it simply not allowed on the Neptune 4 Plus? Am I going about it the wrong way?
Big printer needs a big enclosure.
When was the last time you heard it? When was the last time you saw it performed in sacrament meeting?
I have an area of a model where I would like to enforce seam blocking, but the blocking isn't working like I expected it to. If I use the seam painting tool and right-click to block seams in a specific area I thought that would guarantee that no seams would appear in that area. However, the slicer doesn't seem to be behaving that way. Can anyone here help me understand why I still have seams in an area where I used the blocker? Is there something additional I need to do to prevent the seams in the area where I don't want them?
The attached photos show a model with large, circular lapel pins where I would like to block all seams. But you can see that when sliced, those areas seem to be some sort of "seam magnet".
I recently picked up a Neptun 4 Plus for $150 (along with about 10 kg of filament). Where can I find a list of things to check before I begin printing? I've been running a Prusa MK3s for the past 6 years or so, so I'm pretty familiar with FDM printing in general. But I could use some advice on do's and don'ts for this particular printer.
What does the concept of perfection mean to you, within the context of the nature of God and godhood? I'm not asking about what it means for us to strive to be perfect. I'm more interested in what you believe it means when we say that God is perfect. One of our core doctrines is the idea that God is perfect. How do you personally define the concept of perfection, within that context?
Do you think some members misunderstand this concept? If so, where do we commonly miss the mark?
A friend requested a build for her nephew. Given his young age I wanted something magless, easy to use, and not too powerful. I settled on this blaster. (Crossing my fingers that it was a good choice.)
This was my first LD build. Looking forward to making more of his models soon.
I have a modded Rapidstrike that I have really enjoyed using over the years. It's running krakens on the flywheels and a Rhino on the pusher. Hits about 150 and fires around 12 darts per second. Nothing special, but I really enjoy it. But it's still set up for full-length darts and I would really like to convert it to fire short darts. Is there a drop-in conversion available anywhere? I really don't want to have to cut the shell in half to convert it- mainly because I just don't have the time for a big mod project like that these days.
Can't say I'm disappointed. The first thing I noticed on the Venom box was the rechargeable battery, and my dumb self thought, "Oh cool, they started putting rechargeable batteries in the Vector Pros. Nice."
Edit: just looked at my title and saw that it says "Ordered the Vector Pros". It was supposed to say "Ordered Three Vector Pros".
Are they as bad as I imagine them to be? Anybody know where to get some good quality ones?
My daughter asked me to make her a pistol and I'm happy to oblige. But I need some help choosing the best blaster for her. I would prefer a springer, something not too expensive to build, something that she can prime without much difficulty, and something that hits 150 fps or more. I've been looking around and came up with this options, but I'm wondering if there might be other options out there that I couldn't find:
Zinc
Starling
31K-M
FoxBat
Which of these would you go with in my situation? Would you choose something else?
I completed my first Ontos tonight. It was performing beautifully, until it jammed and the tip of the ram broke. My son was firing it at the time- i don't know if user error caused the jam or not.
But my question is this: is there anything like an upgraded ram design that might prevent this? Anything else I could do or try to keep this from happening in the future?