u/truckbob96

Finally got the drive to get back into this hobby after about a year or so all the rigs need maintenance and a lot of unfinished projects to be finished but happy to be back into it

The ol rust bucket needs some new axles any recommendations? Coming from injora +4s from 2022 are the meus +5s still the meta?

Anybody know what kind of side skirts these are on my old s14? for the longest time I assumed they were navan style but looking at them they seem like they have more flair than the standard navan style

Trying to diagnose why my fuel pump isn’t priming
Did some further testing today.
Just got my ECU back from RSenthalpy from being reflashed Martin said there was a burn on the main power trace but he said he fixed that and replaced a diode that commonly burns out when that happens.
Pump is running off a relay and direct battery power from a wiring specialties battery harness.
I know the pump itself works because I ran a paperclip to bridge the relay in the battery harness and heard it turn over when I did that but can’t seem to get it to run with the prime cycle when I turn the key on
The relay in the drivers kick panel is getting 12v as per the picture, the plug to the fuel pump is getting 12v but only when I bridge the gap in the relay with a paperclip. My guess is that potentially the ECU isn’t grounding out properly still I’ve tried different relays in the drivers side position and the battery harness position, and from what I can tell the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay and in the driver kick panel are both good

Just found this group n had to share my yellow series 2.0 #176/2500 5 speed manual
181,000 miles n still going strong

Mounting up new HKS hi power on my s14 just wanted to double check but I’m assuming I need a cat delete test pipe for this considering the gap is about the size of the heat shield it’s ab 12-16” gap between the downpipe and the start of the exhaust

Need some advice tried bleeding my clutch today and couldn’t get ANY pedal feel systems been dry for quite some time but I already have a hardline bypassing the damper straight to slave cylinder. I tried the advice of taking the slave off the bell housing and flipping it to bleeder upside down position while pushing the plunger rod in while working the bleed valve all of these things and couldn’t get even the slightest resistance in the pedal
I tried slowly actuating the pedal while having someone watch the slave while it was off the car and my friend said it did move a TINY bit and after all this I haven’t seen any air bubbles come out of the bleeder just solid streams of fluid but still not the slightest bit of pedal resistance

Getting down to the final stages of starting the car up
Got it to crank over today and got my fans toggle switch wired up
I couldn’t however get the fuel pump to prime on it I checked the relay area and it’s receiving power and swapped it out for another relay but still nothing
The plugs for the fuel pump tree aren’t receiving power though
Both the engine bay FP fuse and the under dash FP fuse are good
Is it likely that there’s some sort of bad wiring in between the under dash relay and the fuel pump assembly? Chassis is very low mileage and most of the chassis wiring is still pliable and cleaner than most schassis I’ve seen so I have to feel like that’s unlikely the culprit

Has anybody had any experience with fixing warpage on a body?
Was thinking of covering the rest of it with wet paper towels to stop the spread of excess heat and using a hair dryer to heat up the circled area to be able to bend it back
Just super concerned that heating it up will end up fucking it up worse