Liquid CMW SpaceMini 17, Sunlu PA6-CF, 300blk settings, 290° nozzle, 100° bed, 65° chamber printed rails down at ~13° printed on my new X2D. Took a little over 22 hours.
First time printing anything at all in PA6-CF, figured I'd say screw it and send it without doing small prints first. Really blown away by the results. Just letting it sit out for a week or so before I assemble it.
Happy 4th everyone!
First time ever using PA6-CF and she's looking incredible so far. Only 5 more hours to go...
Just wanted to update my previous post. Spent a few hours printing retraction towers and messing with temps and flows on the Aux Nozzle. She's not perfect but it's a heck of a lot better and it's a step in the right direction. For reference, I didn't touch the settings on the primary nozzle yet (the white). Also, the benchy model on MW I'm using, everyone's pictures seem to be pretty blocky on the secondary color so I think part of that issue is the model itself.
Basically no stringing and what little there is, I can likely chalk up to slightly damp filament since I'm printing externally on the aux nozzle. I think I'm still slightly under extruding? but if I go up to 1.05 I get hella stringing.
.98 flow ratio
190/220 temp
21 mm3/s Max Volumetric Speed
5mm retraction length
30 mm/s retraction/de retraction speed
Any tips/advice for my next steps?
Also wanted to thank everyone that offered advice on my last post.
I've been using an A1 for a few months, just picked up an X2D. Using Sunlu PLA, yes I dried it. I was just using this same roll on my A1 perfectly. Aux nozzle is the black if you couldn't tell.
Printed my first multicolor with it using default settings and it was rough looking and a ton of stringing going to the prime tower and through the print. I did all three manual calibrations last night, increased retraction, slowed down the speeds for the Aux Nozzle and then started this benchy to test the calibrations and went to bed.
Woke up to this monstrosity.
I'm not sure where to start. I thought the manual calibrations would have corrected this issue but it clearly didn't. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Just ordered an X2D on Thursday after getting my first printer (A1) back in March. When I first got the A1, I spent the first few days printing mods for it. Since I already have a printer, I figure I might as well pre-print stuff before it arrives next week.
Are there any must have or recommended prints?
I already have an AMS2 and I ordered a filament switch so, not sure if there are specific mounts I should get printed, cable organizers, anything like that.
I appreciate any advice and can't wait to start printing with it!
Just wanted to thank everyone that offered advice and tips on my previous two posts. I completed my build yesterday without much issue (other than the rear rail being difficult to drop in). This was my first time assembling any gun period so it was a lot of fun learning how to do it.
I ended up printing yet another lower from an older post on the sea that came out beautiful only to realize they used a different front rail than what I had so I went to this previous one I had printed just to test the new color. Looks pretty good but I want to go with an all black.
I just ordered an X2D the other day so I can print in pa6-cf so that's the plan once it gets here next week. This subreddit was a very slippery slope 😂
Went to straight Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 (no PETG supports), calibrated prior to starting, modified my support settings and printed rails down flat on the bed as per all the suggestions I received when I posted yesterday.
Looks and feels a lot more solid than my other print. Removing the supports was a little tedious but not terrible and the surface is relatively smooth but I'll have to do some sanding.
Just wanted to share the update and thank everyone that gave me advice yesterday on what I'm looking to be my first 3D2A build.
Just need to source all the parts now so I can start test fitting.
I test printed in different orientations 6 or 7 times with basic PLA before moving to PETG supports for cleaner surfaces and PLA+ 2.0 for the body. Moving to the PETG supports significantly increased my build time and massively increases waste but I wanted a cleaner finished product.
Just finished a 28 hour print on this on my A1. Aesthetically it came out amazing. I was going over the frame and noticed a weak point across the thumb and towards the back. It would be against the recoil velocity but obviously it is concerning.
I assume the obvious opinion is to reprint but as this is my first attempt at a build, I wanted to ask the opinion of people who are smarter than me lol. If so, was my orientation choice incorrect?
Thanks guys and nice builds I've seen on here so far!
First off, excuse the mess. I wasn't planning to put the pool back in commission but the wife asked 😂 so now I have to redo the grounds around it.
I just installed a Hayward skimmer and kept one original inlet. Normally I eliminate both and just use a skimmer but I saw a ton of pictures of people keeping BOTH originals plus the skimmer. Figured it wouldn't hurt so I kept one.
The skimmer has basically no suction with the other turned on. If I stick my hand down in the skimmer it's really strong but at the surface it can't even pull the flap down. The return is flowing great regardless. If I turn off the original inlet, the skimmer is working flawlessly.
I'm running an Intex SX1500 setup. That should be plenty strong (I'd imagine) so I started to think maybe the Tee is causing the issue.
Probably a stupid question to ask but figured I'd post and see if anyone could shed some light.