r/BambuLabX2D

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased the X2D, on top of the A1 I've already owned for about 2 Years now. However, I'm unfortunately less than impressed by the quality of the prints so far, in particular the ones using a 0.2 Nozzle. It appears as if there are Extrusion and Retraction Issues with the Main Nozzle. The Layer Lines are significantly more visible on the X2D then they are on the A1 - and I'm not really sure why.

1. I'm using the 0.2 Nozzle
2. Yes, I have dried the Filament. The Filament used on the A1 is literally the same Ive used on the X2D and Vice Versa.
3. I ran a full Calibration for Temperature, Flow Ratio and Pressure Advance
4. Whether I'm running my own custom HQ Settings or the Stock Settings doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
5. Calibration Cube came out fine, it seems that this issue applies to more complex geometry, which also makes it unlikely to be a Hardware Related Z-Wobble Issue.
6. The Testprints have been primed so make the imperfections more visible.
7. Both Prints are using a Layer Height of 0.06mm.

(Yes I see the tape still on the light) I keep hearing a clicking sound in this spot during my calibration. Brand new printer.

Edit( found out why: the PTFE tubes are overlapping when it gets there, and when it moves back to the middle, it slams back against the roof of the printer again.

Watch the video. I'm pressing slice plate, and it seems like it is, until it is finished, but the print plate icon is still grey, and I can't print it. I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and wondering why this is happening because I'm not able to print anything from Bambu Studio to my X2D

Ok, I posted earlier about this issue but have some time to sit and really give evidence now. I keep getting an error for failure to extrude.

When I first saw the error my original thought was extruder jam but to run a cold pull and that would tell me if the extruder wasn't working or if it was just a clogged nozzle. The cold pull worked and showed clean. Ok move on. Tried to print the job again and get the same error.

Ive now done 3 or 4 cold pulls, attempted to remove the extruder which lead to stripping the screw that holds the filament cutter in place, manually ran filament through the extruder without a nozzle attached, everything seems just fine but I get the error every time it tries to load filament for a job. I can physically watch the filament go all the way to the toolhead through the ptfe tube but it refuses to extrude it.

I have additional photo/video evidence of the extruder working fine but can't attach more than one so here is a cold pull that was done just a minute ago.

Completely new to this but i bought an X2D last week. Its been running mostly fine with the occasional hiccup but now I can't figure out what is going on. Ive ran a few successful cold pulls and yet every time I got to print I get an error stating it has failed to extrude the filament

I dont see how the two are possible, I'm watching the filament enter the print head and a cold pull gives me a successful extrude. Any suggestions? I even changed out to my spare nozzle and still having the issue

After months of waiting on Best Buy, I finally got my new printer today. First I need a new table big enough to hold my other two as well as this one.

Hiii i just got my x2d combo y'day and I keep encountering this issue halfway through printing. I have a support for PLA/PETG loaded on the auxiliary nozzle however midway printing itd give the error that it's empty when it's definitely not. It works after I try to shove in the filament a few times.

However I also noticed it is flushing A LOT of support filament out every single time and barely making any progress in the print as I believe it's doing this every single time a support is needed in each layer

I'm not sure how to fix this / get around this any help is appreciated plss

Brand new x2d combo. There was a point where I unplugged and replugged in the filament buffer cable but I made sure it was secure.

I’m about to get into 3D printing for the first time with the X2D, and I’ve added the items in the photo to my cart.

Since I’m completely new to this, I wanted to ask before checking out, does this look like enough to get started, or am I missing anything important? Also curious if there’s anything in the cart that’s unnecessary for a beginner.

Basically just trying to avoid the classic first-timer mistake of either forgetting something essential or buying a bunch of stuff I won’t actually need forever.

Would really appreciate any advice from people who already use Bambu printers, especially if you started with a similar setup.

I have a Bambu Lab X2D with an AMS 2 Pro connected to it.
I’m going to print PETG-CF, and I see that it shouldn’t be loaded into the AMS. I have a Sunlu filament dryer that I plan to place next to the printer and use as the external spool holder. How should it be connected?
I understand that I’ll have to unload the filament manually before using the AMS again. But it would be convenient if I didn’t have to disconnect and reconnect the PTFE tubes every time.

TLDR; When you use the AMS on the X2D combo, you cannot switch the filament buffer output PTFE’s to different nozzles. It is basically hardcoded that the upper output ONLY goes to the Left extruder/nozzle and the lower ONLY goes to the Right extruder/nozzle.

So….

I was going to do my first multi-color print on the X2D and the slicer recommended that the primary color (white) be on the Left nozzle and the two much smaller secondary colors (red & blue) be on the Right.

Since I had them set up the other way around, I needed to switch my AMS to be on the right nozzle. Lazy me says - “It’s easier to just switch the PTFE’s at the extruder inputs (top right on back of printer).

Well then the AMS would NOT LOAD the filament. It would just STOP at the input side of the filament buffer and throw an error (picture attached)

I went round and round and round trying to figure this out.
- I tried different slots in the AMS - nothing
- I tried re-seating the PTFE tubes on the input side of the buffer (where the feed was stopping) - didn’t help.
- I tried to manually feed it through (disconnected the AMS and used a spare piece of filament) - went through fine.
- I noticed that when loading a new roll of filament, the AMS would sometimes push the filament all the way THROUGH the filament buffer (WTF!)
- I tried to re-auto config the AMS / nozzle setup. I can’t remember what it did, but obviously didn’t fix the problem.
- I used one of my AMS’s from the P2S to see if it was an AMS problem. - still failed.

Then I opened a ticket with support and they were only mildly helpful. Sent them the logs and pictures - they mentioned that I may have had the Filament Switch accessory installed incorrectly. I didn’t have a filament switch as you can see in the pictures - but this foreshadowed what the problem was.

I (being the bonehead I am), after staring at the back of the printer for what seemed like hours, finally focused on the printing on the left side of the filament buffer. It clearly says “Left Nozzle” on the top input and “Right Nozzle” on the bottom.

UGH - I re-switched the outputs to go to the correct nozzles and everything started working.

In conclusion.
- Those Filament Buffer Inputs -> Outputs are “hardcoded” if you are using the AMS.
- My guess is the AMS was thinking “hey I’m going to the Right nozzle” but the Filament Buffer tells it “uhhhhh, this is the LEFT nozzle input - you shall not pass!”
- In hindsight, the error message alludes to the problem, but it’s not clear.
- I rechecked the install video and again, it alludes to this “hardcoding” but does not specifically say “DO NOT SWITCH THESE”.

Don’t be a bonehead and switch those outputs!

I've been struggling with mine since I got this printer and I'm at the point where I'm doubting that the unit I got doesn't really have a defect. All my top layers come out with a strange surface, looks like it's underextruding but at no point the lines it produces are actually straight all the way, dialing filament has been very complicated. Anyone has pics to share of their top layers?

Pics are the sharpie test of the closest I got to a properly smooth top layer but I still can't produce the flat shiny straight lines I had on the A1 mini (pic 3, bottom piece)

I'm currently printing ASA with my X2D. The heated chamber is at 65c. My AMS is on top of the glass lid. It currently has 2 spools of PLA within it. After 3-4 hours of printing, the temperature reading from the AMS is reading at 49 celcius, which is close to the glass-transition temperature. Feeling the reels manually, they aren't actually reaching that temp. Is it possible that I may ruin the PLA spools if I were to print ASA for long?

This only happened once.

When I started a print, the printer made this LOUD grinding noise. The toolhead was trying to move but it clearly couldn’t. No errors thrown by the printer and the only was to stop the issue was to stop the print.

I did take a moment to get a video of the issue happening so I had something to give support.

I’ve opened a ticket with them, but I’m wondering if anyone has seen this issue.

While it hasn’t happened since, I’m really worried there is damage to the gears that move the toolhead.