u/vivary_arc

I’ve been researching trying to do an AR180 retro clone for a long time now, and I really want to get started. However, I haven’t found a lot out there, seems like the only viable choices are:
- Just wait and find a Sterling production copy (I believe only 20k were made, w/ varying QC)
- Try to find a Brownells BRN180 setup, but as far as I’ve seen there is no way to fully retro the upper this way
- I know Manticore Arms made a repro stock, but I have yet to find a repro handguard/etc

Every once in a while I’ll see someone post what is ostensibly a repro that’s perfect, but usually there isn’t a lot of definitive info on (how) they sourced the right parts. I’m not opposed to some modernized features, but I hate seeing the newer style handguards, no rear sight base like the original, etc.

Anyone in the sub pulled this off? Many thanks 🙏

My newly minted aggressive music board (power violence, metalcore, math, etc).

Board: Pedaltrain Novo 18
Power: 1 x Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 (right under board), 1 x Voodoo Labs ISO 5 (left under board)

Bottom Row (non-loop):
- Korg Pitchblack tuner
- Boss NS1X noise suppressor
- OBNE Haunt fuzz
- EQD Plumes overdrive
- GCI Brutalist Jr (modded/assembled by MakeMakingElectronics) distortion
- ProCo Rat distortion

Top Row (loop, left of NS1X, on two Pedaltrain 7” risers):
- MXR Ten Band EQ
- OBNE Black Fountain v3 delay
- EQD Levitation v1 reverb
- OBNE Dark Star pad reverb/bitcrusher

Just something I’ve been wondering for years and years - How do people reliably use a time effect on stage, when there is no tap tempo or MIDI?

My first pedals were a black Sovtek Big Muff and a Small Stone. Back then there were few options in the game for digital delays with tap. I remember the DL4 dropping, and then seeing them on everyone’s boards for years and years. Prior to that, it made sense to me that folks used pedals like a TR-2, and just hand adjusted them between songs.

My first delay was a DD20 I scored off a bandmate, and the reason I loved it was the tap tempo. At one time I owned a Carbon Copy, and as much as I loved the tone of the repeats the no tap made it un-giggable to me.

Looking through some of my favorite bands’ boards last night though in the year of our lord 2026, many of these boards had time effects with no tap on them.

Please y’all, I’m begging - What do I not understand about how to use these? What have I been missing all these years? Thanks!

First time shooting my new suppressor, and had a few strange sounds occur. This particular sound occurred on the very first round, and sounded slightly like a ricochet to me (firing at a wood target frame/paper target in front of a muddy berm. I’m thinking it was maybe some sort of interaction between the booster spring and piston?

This was a Glock 21 with 230 grain, a .45 can and the piston was minimally lubed with white lithium grease prior to the first shot.

I have inspected the baffles and end-cap following this outing, no strikes/material degradation that I can see.

Anything seem wrong here? I’m already slightly paranoid of strikes.

Thanks!

Hey y’all, did my first rattle can on a Ruger American Gen. II in 6.5 Creed (with Vortex Diamondback Tactical 4-16x44 FFP optic).

I used the following shades:
- Rust-oleum Camouflage 2x “Flat Khaki”
- Rust-oleum Camouflage 2x “Army Green”
- Rust-oleum Camouflage 2x “Flat Earth Brown”

The end goal was to have my rifle blend into the environment (Texas Hill Country) with a natural-ish flow of FDE, a little pale green and brown smattering. Was somewhat going for rattle can jobs I’d seen on AK74’s in photos from the Ukrainian military.

Prep:
- Didn’t sand anything for bonding; Figured I can easily touch up when needed
- Removed the bolt, masked off the trigger, magwell, bolt opening and inside of the muzzle device
- Masked off the optic turrets, markings and fully masked the lenses (sprayed the lens flip covers separately)

Technique:
- Sprayed a thick base layer of the “Flat Khaki” around the rifle and optic to cover them entirely at 12” distance
- Sprayed pale stripes at diagonals of “Army Green” all the way across the rifle and optic, then flipped and carries the diagonals over the other side at 18” distance
- Sprayed light dusting of “Flat Earth Brown” all over at 24” distance
- Made a final pass at random spots of “Flat Khaki” and “Arrmy Green” to break up the pattern

I feel like I really over-sprayed, and have been working to slowly remove excess paint that got just inside the bolt opening, magwell and on the trigger.

I really want to do my 47 in a similar fashion, but there will be a lot more to mask and I want to ensure I’m a little cleaner.

Any tips and tricks out there for rattle can jobs? Thanks!