u/winterfistfox

I have been asked for advice on my father's bulldozer, a 1989 D4H LGP direct drive bulldozer. A good video tutorial, or step by step guide would be helpful. All my knowledge is trucks and automotive, so i have general knowledge on what should be done, but the specifics are lacking.

He is able to start it in gear, but unable to shift it from neutral to gear with the engine running.
- I have told him he needs to adjust his clutch. I am unsure the procedure for this. I also advised he adjust the clutch pedal linkage as he might have it wrong to get full pedal stroke and clutch release.

When he lets off the clutch, the engine acts under load, like the parking brakes are engaged. Both in 1st and reverse.
- I don't know how to release the stuck brakes on this tractor. It has been parked for a long time. I saw something about a brake fluid release valve activating when the brake pedal is activated and released.

Any advice would be nice on this near 40 year old tractor.

Edit 1: Examining the brake system, the brakes lookto function like a air brakes on a truck. by pressurizing and releasing the mechanical brakes when the engine is running. If the oil is not getting from the pump to the brakes, the brakes stay engaged. I informed him to test to see if that oil line is clogged or the parking brake control valve is sticking shut.

Emma and EVI will be drinking in as much knowledge of Adjacent Realm star maps as possible. They will be looking for as close to fixed points in space, which would be pulsars. Each spin in a set pattern, unique to itself. If you find and map enough of them, you can tell where the viewer mapped them from.

Theories on what Emma will find?

1. Earthrealm shares a reality with Adjacent realms and happens to be in a bubble of Void mana, which is shown to be a nullifying force for normal mana. Adjacent Realms can be reached simply by pointing a ship at it and going. This assumes Adjacent Realms share a galaxy with Earth. Earth just happens to be in a dead zone that GUN has yet to pass the edge of. Manned missions to far from Earth would lead to human crews melting unless shielded. Nexian experiences show that anywhere there is mana, there is life that evntuall finds the Nexus. Earth life lacks the mana field cell structures that protect life from being balanced to ambient mana.

1a) Adjacent Realms are so distant from Earth that going there directly is infinitely impractical. Earth's universe is bigger than anyone can imagine, after all. They might not be anywhere close, celestially. Nexian detours required to visit or magical teleportation tricks to bypass distance.

2. Each Adjacent Realm is its own dimension. Stellar mapping is just a curiosity, though putting that gun on the mantle would be pointless to not fire it.

2a) Stellar mapping shows that every Adjacent Realm might as well be Earth. Each realm is at a different dimensional depth, each of a different mana density. Earth is floating on top of it all, the Nexus at the bottom.

I have had this Ranger for about 15 years. The clutch started to act up a couple years after replacing the clutch hardware. I didnt have the cash for a master/slave kit at that time, so i left the old one. Recently, there was a slow leak that gave you less and less clutch as you used it, resetting to normal when you parked. So this year I am replacing the hydraulics. Master cylinder, reservoir, slave are all new, the prefilled kit you get from O'Reilly's.

I have now replaced the hydraulics, but there feels like a persistent bubble in the line, where shifting is 95% there, but it is still hard to shift into 1st or 2nd when stopped, getting grinding going into reverse. My normal shifting method is to move into second to get the transmission lined up, then first to get in first.

Things I have tried.

1. Pulling the entire system out sans slave cylinder. Moving the system so it has no air traps in the master cylinder or lines. The design has 2 places where air can trap easily, where it goes over the frame and the inverted, fluid enters from the bottom master cylinder. This is the method recommended by the kit manufacturer.
2. Doing the same, but leaving it hooked to the slave cylinder, hoping to get the bubble to drift out. Thinking about it, I may have done this wrong and there is a bubble still in the master. I never worked the master to open it so the bubble can leave.
3. Opening the slave cylinder drain fitting and pouring fluid in the reservoir and just letting it drain through until I have poured in about 1.5 reservoirs worth. Manufacturer recommended method to bleed the slave.
4. Bleeding it like I would brakes. Pumping the clutch and holding it to the ground with a bar, getting under and opening the fitting, seeing the fluid gush and closing right away.

Having laid it out in this post, I am pretty sure I need to try number 2 again, but I am still posting this so others can find it and if others have insight into if I am missing something.