




Electric ranger
Was walking down the street and noticed this ranger. Thought the rear end looked a little odd so took a closer look….





Was walking down the street and noticed this ranger. Thought the rear end looked a little odd so took a closer look….
Rolling home from a night shift and my tire flew off. Luckily no one got hurt. I Just rebuilt most of the front suspension about 600 miles ago. I should have replaced the hub assembly while I had the chance. I feel dumb, but I’m alive. Never found my tire though, I watched it roll for at least a mile.
Just curious what kind of crazy deals (or rip offs) y'all have gotten? What model/year?
>A gas spring cylinder rupture or a liftgate falling unexpectedly can increase the risk of injury.
>NHTSA ID Number: 26V252000
>Manufacturer Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc.
>Components STRUCTURE
>Potential Number of Units Affected: 108046
>Summary
>Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc. (MMNA) is recalling certain 2018-2022 Outlander PHEV and 2014-2020 Outlander vehicles. The liftgate gas spring cylinders may corrode and lose pressure, which can result in a gas spring cylinder rupture or the liftgate falling unexpectedly.
>Remedy
>MMNA will replace the left and right liftgate gas springs, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed June 17, 2026. Owners may contact MMNA customer service at 1-888-648-7820. MMNA's number for this recall is SR-26-001. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will be searchable on NHTSA.gov June 3, 2026. This recall expands previous NHTSA recall number 25V507.
Credit: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Also reaffirmed my feelings towards cave diving, I’m not really claustrophobic but it was a tad uncomfortable, especially on the passenger side under the exhaust. In the end, even if it was 4 nuts and 2 bolts and a lot of tugging, I’m really proud I got them on and secure by myself.
if anyone knows id be very grateful, i would paint it myself but i know that would look shitty
I just purchased a 1994 ford ranger XTL manual and I need new tires. With that said, I’m looking at upgrading the suspension and wheels to get a bigger set of tires (16/17” tires are cheaper then 15” since it’s less common)
Anyone have suggestions to lift suspension and wheels specs to get?
I have been looking to switch my Corolla for something that fits my needs better, and a Ranger would work great for me.
I have come across a good looking Ranger for sale, but since I have little experience with these trucks (or any car for that matter), I thought I'd ask here if you guys think it would be a good buy.
Stats:
2007 Fx4 AWD
380km (that's what I am more concerned about).
Added touch screen and music stuff.
RepairSolution 2 added.
Bed from California (so in good shape compared to other Rangers used in my Canadian region).
Seller is asking for $6k.
I have not reached out to them yet, but i will ask for repair history.
The milage concerns me. Wondering how well these trucks hold on after the 300k km. Would the transmission need to be replaced right away?
Any tips on what I should be looking for in good used Ranger welcome.
At the shop I work at a 1994 Ford ranger with the 4.0 came in
I’ll let y’all be the detectives what happened to this one
Hello Everyone,
I have a 2015 Ford Ranger T6 (Diesel) and I’m looking to improve the throttle response, I just want the truck to feel more energetic and responsive when I step on the gas.
I’m currently looking at two options:
For those who have modified their T6, I have a few specific questions:
Looking for real-world experience before I spend the money. Thanks!
Just wanted to ask what the actual problem with the rough country 5 inch lift kit is? I called a shop and they offered the super lift and the rough country and they said they’ve never had problems with rough country, The guy has been doing it for 25 years and he said a lot of it is teenagers online spreading misinformation because they installed it themselves incorrectly and rough country had a bad reputation in the 90s and that’s why people still hate on them. He said the newer rough country stuff is up to par. Not to mention 6speedfletch on yt has had that lift kit on his ranger for 6 years now and seems like it’s running fine for him. Just wanna see if I’m missing anything before I pull the trigger on buying it. Also curious if anybody here has personal experience with it, any issues with traction control?, what are the pros and cons and is it worth it because according to this Reddit and forums, this is a bad lift kit, but I can never find a reason why.
The pic above is the 3.55 axle currently in the truck (since I never took any of the one in question) which replaced my old 4.10 8.8 posi for a number of reasons including milage, completely burnt out clutch disks and, most importantly for this post, axle play, lash and a lovely 'my diff is full of loose nuts and bolts' sound. From now on I'm only talking about the old axle.
I pulled the cover and it looks about the same with no visible debris so I have hope the slop will either be an easy bearing, or the worn clutch pack creating a slight gap that a replacement will fix.
Watching some YouTube it seems like quite the job to fully revamp and shops are wayyy out of my budget, but I'm fairly mechanically inclined, having done some serious work including an auto to manual swap and mustang brake conversion. It's the numbers and specs that scare me most since there are so many things to shim and measure but it's not in the truck so I can take my time, tho I'd like to put in as little effort as possible to get it back under the truck in decent condition.
What do y'all think I should do? Is a clutch pack likely to fix all my problems or do I need a full year down? Thanks in advance folks, I'm off to do more research while waiting for yall
How can I go about adding oem fender flares to this fender? I rebuilt this Ranger I bought at auction and found this fender at a salvage yard. Only thing I’m hating is there is a flare everywhere else but here. I also considered removing the other ones but don’t want to deal with the holes.
I've been fixing up this 1986 2.9L V6 Ranger and I've run into an issue I absolutely cannot figure out. The engine starts fine and idles at the correct RPM but short blips of the throttle will always cause it to either stall or switch into what seems like a different run mode in the computer where it absolutely cannot figure out how to manage the engine anymore.
In the first video you can see the engine idling, and running through higher RPMs and then settling back down to idle as I release the throttle cable connection. As long as the deceleration is gentle there is no issue. If you quickly blip the throttle the engine stalls as you see in the first video or it starts surging over and over as in the second video. It seems to get stuck in this other run mode and can't find its way back to a stable idle. If you turn the car off and restart it the engine idles normally again.
The only OBD code I get is 42 which is "(R) System rich – Fuel control", and the exhaust definitely smells like it's running rich. The only lead I can think of right now is that when I remove the spout connector and run the KOER test it does not report the 42 code, but I've had timing set from 10 BTDC to 12 BTDC and it will always report the 42 code when the spout connecter is in. Maybe some issue with the signals from the distributor?
I've done a mix of fixing actual problems and some blasting the parts cannon and it is definitely running way better than before but I can't get this particular issue figured out. Any help would be appreciated!
Parts replaced:
Throttle position sensor
Idle air control valve
MAP sensor
EGR solenoid
PCV valve
Crankcase breather
Spark plugs (replaced with Motorcraft)
TFI module
Ignition coil
Fuel injectors (one was leaking)
Fuel pressure regulator (Fuel rail would not maintain pressure, also related to leaking injector)
Fuel pump
Fuel sending unit (pump in gas tank)
Air charge temperature sensor
Coolant temperature sensor
Oxygen sensor
Tests / other work:
Vacuum leaks fixed, no other leaks found with smoke test
Cleaned and verified EGR valve function
All cylinders have good compression and are within a couple of PSI of each other
Tested coolant system for exhaust gasses (none)
Verified timing
Maybe I'm just a wuss but holy crap...