Seen a few posts on other pages Ireland paying £1000 for 1000 layed bricks but Blockwork is £18m
One of my mates went over and said don’t bother unless you’re desperate. All the houses are Blockwork there are no bricks at all on the sites. So it’s the same as any site.
It could be £3000/1000 bricks don’t matter because there ain’t no bricks at all. Get the same Blockwork price at home
having a good 2nd week went to pick him up at 7:30. No sign of him, woke up late, his dad dropped him in at like 9,
then when he come in he fell over on the scaffolding knocked the profile down and the wall over…… 💀
If the labourer takes my finishing brush to clean the mixer one more time im gonna use his balls as a speedbag
Its the third time this week
Anyone got good software for MTD
This stuff is not my area of expertise so idiot proof would be good!
Hello, I am new to Reddit, but I hope that someone can help me with my request.
I have to sets from Wange with no manual. The first one is 6213 (St. Basil´s Cathedral) and the second one is Colloseum (6225). Maybe someone can send me a link to one of the manuals...
Thanks
In the process of having our Brick steps replaced. Some of you may remember my previous posts asking about suggestions. We love the brick we chose, and it seems the mason is almost done (brick is all set, but that is just in looking at it as a homeowner. Also, earlier in the week he mentioned coming back to "clean them" when everything was all done). My question is, I see many of the brick have a line or slot in them, in the middle. My guess is it's in the manufacturing as its a perfect slot, almost like a shallow saw cut. Since these are outdoor steps, I am concerned about moisture getting in them and blowing the brick apart over the summers / winters (we are in NJ). Is this a potential concern? Do brick get sealed after install to prevent this? I plan to ask the mason as well, when he comes back, but I wanted unbiased opinions. Thanks in advance.
This job is becoming a nightmare. I've never done any brick laying and I need to black up this gap, it's the outlet overflow to a pond. The only footing is inside, so I can't lay anything outside of the gap. I can't get the steel frame out as it's been built into the existing block work.
So my plan is to block it up from the inside. The problem is then that all the water will be pushing up against it, so I need to tie the new blocks into the old. Which sort of mortar mix should I be using that's going to be strong enough to hold back the water and not split? Once it's all gone off can I drill through a few of the new blocks and use a mechanical fixing to hold it to the old blocks?
Nhbc was on the plot for 4 minutes.
For context, I’ve recently purchased a 1930s–50s-era property.
Following a survey, I’ve been advised that the existing cement plinth and render need to be removed, as they are bridging the DPC and contributing to damp inside the property.
My question is: what mortar mix should I use for repointing the brickwork?
I assume a lime mortar would be appropriate, given that the recommended replacement render is lime-based. However, I intend to leave the brickwork exposed after removing the existing render, so I want to make sure I use the correct mortar mix for exposed brickwork.
What would you recommend?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’ve attached a photo of the brickwork as it currently looks beneath the render, along with a photo of the existing exposed yellow brickwork, which has never been rendered.
Looking to build a scent wall using engineering bricks on their side, how tall can I go (looking at ~70cm) and anything else I need to consider? Won’t be load bearing apart from 35kg of Malinois potentially leaning on it…
...and how do i fix this? the brick was used for a wall and stairwell going into the garden. it seems like over time they have just melted away. is this normal? i live in london.
in the image the lintel doesn’t seem to extend beyond the doors, is there a part of the lintel hidden within the brickwork that extends past the sides of the doors?
Looking for opinions on this small wall. 3 courses high to lower end. What's the best way?
Hi everyone, I’m based in Basingstoke and looking for an opportunity as a bricklaying improver or trainee. I’ve completed my level 1 bricklaying qualification and am currently working towards my level2 NVQ. I’m reliable, hardworking, have my own transport, and I’m happy to travel within the local area. If anyone knows a bricklayer or company that’s looking for an improver, or can point me in the right direction, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. And feel free to comment below or send me a private message. Thanks.
I'm doing a brick and paving slab step, as well as relaying one of my old steps.
For the new step the slab is 50mm thick, it's got paper on the backing. Is it okay to leave the paper on the slab when I lay it? The slab needs to be level with another one, so I'll only have about 10mm of mortar between the bricks and the slab, will that be strong enough? Also I'm doing some repointing at the same time. Can I just use the same mortar that I'll be making to do the repointing to lay the slab for the new step and the old step which is thicker and heavier? Thanks for your advice, as I want to make sure I do it correctly.