Hey there guys I’m thinking of getting a government car from Iaai it seems clean and all it needs are tires how much do you guys think it will go for
I’m thinking of bidding 4k on it
Also should I use a broker or use my dad’s friend account
Since IAAI does not have its own SR, I figured I'd ask here:
For those that have purchased from both, how do these 2 compare?
I'm talking about: ease with paperwork, transport cost, auction fees and not last do you not get your winning bid accepted often? Since I noticed a lot of relisting with IAAI. Any other aspects worthy of mentioning?
TIA
I guess IAAI has a new pilot program now for certain clean title vehicles. They took 92 pictures. Note that this is NOT an optional service, the cost is $10.
I “accidentally” bid £800 on this BMW 318 with 171000 miles. I didnt read the additional information which says ENGINE FAULT. Also I didnt do market rese which is ofcourse my fault. So “just for fun” i bid £800 on it thinking people would bid higher but i instantly won it and no one else even placed a bid. I really dont wanna buy it. Im pretty new to copart and this would be my second purchase.
is there any way of getting out of this deal?
has anyone had a similar experience?
how bad of a purchase is this and could i possiblg make any money out of this?
thanks
I won the auction for this 2022 MINI Clubman. It is hail-damaged, with apparently no visible hail marks (beige is pretty hard to see).
After (winning) and paying more attention to it, the check engine light is on, the engine cover is missing, and there is a weird high-pitched noise coming from the engine. Carfax says salvage and rebuilt title. The final bid was $10,100.
Any thoughts? I know I should have checked before bidding, but I am considering taking the hit on the 10% relisting fee.
Lot: 54719296
CARFAX: https://limewire.com/d/xI6pS#wfU2xo3ITi
Thanks!
Hey everyone — I’ve been lurking here for a while and figured I’d share something I built, fully transparent that I’m the one who made it (not trying to sneak in an ad).
I kept running into the same problem when checking cars before buying: CARFAX tells you accidents and owners, but it doesn’t tell you if the car was ever sold at a Copart or IAAI auction — which is exactly the thing a lot of us actually care about.
So I built thevincenter.com The auction history check is free — you put in a VIN and it tells you if there’s a match, with sale price, damage type, and photos from the lot. Full CARFAX reports are also available for $3.99 if you need the deeper history too.
Not trying to oversell it — genuinely just want to know if this is useful to people who actually buy at auction for a living, and what’s missing. Happy to answer any questions.
Bought a car on copart using a friend who lives in Nigeria’s subscription. I have helped many of my friends purchase a vehicle on that subscription with no issues prior, but after buy one for myself, I got a title that said “export only” on the bottom of it, the prior titles on the various cars I purchased with that subscription did not have that listed on their titles and this one does. The vehicle drives perfectly fine and is 2026 Hyundai Tucson FWD; literally only the d/s quarter panel and tire were affected. Also the “export only” part was not listed on the title I saw online prior to purchasing. So would anyone have insight on why the title was sent as such. Don’t worry I am waiting for the subscriber to email them and get a response as he is in another country and can’t speak to them for a long time on the phone. I’m just anxious and want to know if anyone has answers to this or any experience in this department? I’ve heard there is nothing I can do to register the car in the US if it has that on it but I will also try to call my local dmv in the morning to see if there is a work around through them. Comment your thoughts please
Looking at a car that is marked for upcoming sale. It looks like it's been to a body shop and has some marks and abbreviations on it. Anyone know what D.P. might mean? It's in a few spots across the body. Listed for hail damage
What does it mean when it's just title group unclean? Obviously it's not a clean title but is that salvaged, rebuilt, stolen, etc?
Hey guys so I really want this truck, how much do yall think it'll go for? I want to go up to 15k but not sure if it'll go for that or if I'm to low.
2007 DTS Lux III. 65K miles, winning bid was $975. Minor damage to the RR door/wheel well lip but for a cheap DD, who cares?
Customer service is improving ?
Have already talked to the Assistant GM at the yard and he talked to the GM....
Both Keys lost, vehicle was loaded then unloaded due to keys missing and transporter saying they couldn't unload it....
Sorry if this is an annoying question, does this mean that every time I bid on the same car I’d be charged a fee or only my highest bid would be charged the appropriate fee ? Thank you
Planning on flipping it for a profit. Still not sure what make/model i will be looking for. Will only focus on bank repos. Anything i should know before making my first investment?
Looking at a car currently listed. I won the auction initially but the seller rejected the offer. Its listed as a run and drive(as little as that means) but the price overall has been pretty low.
Its a towncar with 250k on it and theyre asking 900 for it. Im familar with the platform so im comforrable with the miles on it but not a big fan of hidden issues. Its more of a "why would they put it on copart as opposed to marketplace"
I love buying salvage title cars from auction and recently I bought a 2023 model Y with light rear end damage, it was salvaged due to parts availability. I changed the tailgate and rear bumper and im about to register it. I’ve had it cleared as rebuilt title, no longer salvage. I have a home charger and I want too use it as an errand car, is it possible to use the supercharger station's as I would love it as a roadtrip car? does it need to be inspected by Tesla? I haven’t been able to check as I’m waiting to register it?
2009 Range Rover with a Bill of Sale/Parts Only. I was the high bid at $425, seller counters with $2650. 😂 They're moonlighting as a stand-up or snorting blocks.
I won a lot on Friday, and since then I have been unable to retrieve it from the parking lot. Copart Support told me that I need to verify my Proof of Residence, so I have already uploaded five different documents.
The first three were utility bills, but they were rejected because they were considered outdated. Support told me that I need to upload a recently issued document. However, it is only the beginning of the month, and I usually receive my utility bills closer to the end of the month.
The next document I uploaded was a recent payment receipt for the car lot that contains all the necessary information, including my physical address, ID number, and full name. It was also rejected, and I was told that Copart requires a different type of document, such as:
• Utility Bill
• Vehicle Registration
• Motor Insurance
• Mortgage Statement
• Voter Registration
Finally, I uploaded my car insurance document, which is currently valid and has an expiration date of December 12, 2026. That document was rejected as well.
During my last conversation with Support, I was told that a ticket had been created in Copart support system and that my only option now is to wait for someone to contact me by email.
The problem is that Copart has already started charging me additional storage fees, while at the same time I am unable to retrieve the vehicle specifically because my Proof of Residence verification has not been completed.
I have submitted multiple documents, followed the instructions provided by Support, and each document has been rejected.
How can I resolve this situation as soon as possible?