I bought the senville lineset cover for this. My question is. Do I match the color of the lighter beige until it gets to the darker trim and then do the darker beige color on down through the brick or would that look funny?
4th gen, 3 heads, 1 year old install, suddenly no has chill.
Error codes PC03 and PC31.
Hooking up a pressure manifold, the low gauge reads 275 PSI / 19 bar. I think that’s good? Does it matter which head’s service port I test?
Testing the low pressure switch with a multimeter reads open.
I thought I could be clever and jam a loop of wire into the board side switch connector to fool it into thinking the switch was closed, and while that did quiet the error, the system did not start producing cool air.
Ideas for other things to try?
Do I just need a new low pressure switch? I did try thwocking it with a screwdriver.
Hello all,
I noticed a lot of water coming from under my heat pump and spreading across the basement floor. I checked the drain pipe and the condensate pump, and both seemed to be working properly. When I opened the access panel, the inside was heavily iced over, as you can see in the first picture.
I assumed it might be because a couple of vents in the house were closed, so I opened everything up and let the ice melt completely. I also installed a new filter since the old one was damp, and then let the unit run overnight. When I checked again this morning, I saw ice starting to build up again—at least that’s what it looks like to me. I’m not sure if what you see in the second picture is normal or not. The black pipe that’s wrapped up is also shows a lot of condensation.
I’d appreciate any insight, and if I do need a technician, I’d love advice on how to make sure I’m not taken advantage of. I know close to nothing about this.
We had a brown out and now my unit won't start. Any advice would be helpful. I try turning it off for 15 minutes and letting it sit but nothing still not any of any lights or anything.
Edit: for anyone else looking for advice on the future. Apparently it's was a small soldered in fuse in the back of the computer on the indoor unit. I lucky had a fuse holder I soldered into the ends and got it going again. I have brownout protection coming.
I wish it it was just a regular automotive or replaceable fuse slot. Oh well. Getting a brownout smart breaker and surge protector for the indoor and outdoor units
I have narrowed down to this specific model for my 2300 sq feet home. Any reviews or feedback ?
This seems to be a Canada exclusive model. Says High-efficiency performance with up to 20 SEER and 10.5 HSPF
Cold climate operation with heating down to -30°C
Inverter-driven variable-speed technology for energy savings and comfort
Does this look right ?
I know that after a vacuum, you should release the refrigerant before reinstalling the valve core as to not bring air back into the line. I've recently also heard that valve core removal tools aren't rated for super high pressures. The last installs I did, I was surprised by how much pressure was in the system and how difficult it was to press the stem back in. The youtube videos make it look like a breeze but it wasn't nearly that easy for me. In fact, a small amount of refrigerant escaped from the stem because the seal didn't hold up to that much pressure as I pushed it back in. I recently heard it might be wise to release only enough refrigerant to get a positive pressure, then install the core, then release the rest. Does anybody who works with these regularly have any advice on this?
I have a classic Seattle 4 square from 1907. My partner is warming to the idea of a mini split but hates the idea of something that looks like a printer hanging from the ceiling. If we do a DIY system for the entire house we would need all the form factors on deck. For now I just want to put a small one in the attic office space to learn how to do it. I really like the Pioneer models but am open to what people in this thread think. I see bizarrely cheap ones on Ali Express a lot. Also does the Pioneer Qwik E Vac work of should I just learn to pull a vacuum, or only buy pre charged lines.
I have 3 brands of mini split, A Senville, a Garvee, and a Yitahome. The Garvee and Yitahome are aux rebrands and louder than the Senville. I have them in bedrooms and until I discovered silent mode they were louder than I preferred when trying to sleep. One is right above my head and so I hear it more than one across the room. My Senville, which doesn't have a "silent mode" is the mini split I bought first and it seems even quieter on low than the other two. I heard Costway might be quieter but since it looks like an aux brand I'm skeptical. I looked it up and the Yitahome says 50db & the Garvee says 41db but I don't know what mode these refer to. The Senville says 27db on low, 41.5 on medium, 45 on high, and 54 on Turbo. I didn't pay much attention to the noise rating when I bought them but I will be looking for a quieter unit upon replacement for the bedroom units. Anybody have any experience with other brands? I notice they don't seem to give db ratings for each mode like the more expensive units do so I'm not sure what mode the db rating being advertised is for. Is it for low, it it for silent? Or is it whatever they want to put down? What brands do you recommend for quiet operation that also are affordable or is there always going to be a tradeoff for that?
*edit* After further inspection, the Yitahome is barely quieter on silent/mute mode than my Senville is on low. Senville doesn't have a silent mode though. Turns out my Garvee is very quiet on silent/mute mode but it's a 9k unit so I wonder if it's quieter because of it's size compared to the 24k Senville and 18k Yitahome.
I am just starting to look into installing a mini split system in my house. The house is about 1700 sq feet, two stories. This is in NE Massachusetts and I am mostly interested in the cooling function. Given our climate and preferred comfort levels, we actually do not run our window units for an awful lot of the summer, only during the hottest and most humid weather.
We currently cool the place with two 10,000 BTU window units that I am thoroughly sick of installing in the summer and removing in the fall. Hence the mini spit idea. I know that these are pretty undersized for the space I am cooling, but it has worked just fine for the almost 40 years we have lived here.
The arrangement of the house is such that heated or cooled air can move easily between the upper and lower floors. The individual bedrooms stay comfortable so long as we leave the doors open during the day. By evening, it's typically comfortable enough to sleep.
looking at a few of the DIY options out there, would a split unit of say 24,000 BTU (a bit more than 2X what I have with my window units) be a reasonable approach? Also, any thoughts on favorite brands to consider or avoid?
Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks
I'm looking for some recommendations for reputable, licensed companies to install heating/cooling mini splits in my house in the Cork City Area for three upstairs bedrooms, or potentially a few downstairs too, depending on my budget. I may do some of the work myself, so I'm also researching how to do it DIY/Professional combo. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you!
The space above the door frames would be a great space for a heat pump in my garage, especially with that unused 4” hole in the wall that used to be a dryer vent hose port (installed by the previous owners).
The only problem is that the space above the door frames is only about 12-13 inches to the ceiling and most indoor units are about 14 inches tall before even including the surrounding air envelope which they want 3” above and below the machine.
Looking for ideas.
Hello all,
I am going to be replacing my current heating system as it is an electric forced air furnace and incredibly inefficient. My house is relatively small (1200 sq ft or so) and so I am looking at a unit that would come in around 2 ton or 24 BTU. The two options I am considering are a 2 ton ducted system like this stealth or a 2 ton concealed duct split system like this senville. Both are obviously on the lower end of the market but unfortunately, that is where my budget is at right now. My question is- is there a compelling reason not to lean towards a concealed duct model? The furnace is in a closet space right now and it would be great to be able to reclaim that area and convert it into more of a usable space as a closet or pantry. I can't help but think that shrinking the air handler unit down to such a small size must come with some compromises though.
Also for what its worth, I live in the willamette valley and plan to use my heat pump without a heat strip.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Hey everyone i currently have electric baseboard heat in my house. They are wicked inefficient during the winter and I also have window units for A/C during the summer. How possible is it to use the wiring from the electric baseboard to power a mini split?
I would be completely disconnecting the electric baseboard by the way. The window ac units are not cutting for me any more.
Also, how are the effectiveness of mini splits for people who have them?
I have a 325 sq ft bedroom with east-facing windows and 8ft ceiling. I'm planning to install a Mitsubishi 9k BTU mini-split, but I'm wondering if a 12k BTU unit would be too large for the room.
Also, based on the attached layout, which installation location (Position 1 or Position 2) would provide the best airflow and overall air circulation? The bed is slightly offset to position 2 as the left side is next to the bathroom.
Edit: Location: Bay area, California. The back wall is an exterior wall. Left wall is the bathroom wall. Right is the window.
SENDC-36HF. 95 ambient, 2000sqft, thermostat set to 74. Reading about 857 watts. Pleased, but wondering how low you’ve seen a 3 ton go ?
Planning the layout for my home. Two story, 4 bedroom, 2600sqft + 400sqft garage. Manual Js come in between 58K and 69k BTU for heating but I am keeping my baseboards as backup/supplemental so my priority is sizing correctly for both but making sure I am not oversizing for cooling.
Biggest concern is airflow on the ground floor - getting the kitchen and living areas to be properly cooled or heated.
The only mutlizone is an 18k that I would use to attack the kitchen and adjacent sitting room. Indoor units would only be ~20 feet apart. Not sure if thats a fight this set up will win. Have some other ideas but this is where Im at.
Would love opinions or feedback from others who have done similar installs. Layout of the home prevents effective multi zoning with going through crawl space, attic, walls, etc...this is my "simple" approach.
We have to replace our Mitsubishi mini split. We’re considering a DIY unit from Mr. Cool. Of course their website has tons of positive reviews, but I’m interested in crowdsourcing reviews elsewhere before purchasing (their return policy isn’t great). Has anyone installed one of these themselves? How’d it go, what are your impressions, how long has it been, how has it held up? Many thanks for the input!
I self installed my Pioneer 18k mini split system in July of 2019. It has worked flawlessly. I've had to disconnect and reconnect the outside unit 3-4 times for decking work etc. Never a problem. I'm in Gilbert Az and I can maintain just about any temp I want. My car Approves.
Hi everyone! I actually created a Reddit account just to ask this because I’m not sure if I did my dual-hose conversion correctly.
I have a Comfee Breezy Cool Pro 2.6 and built a DIY dual-hose intake box over the lower rear/side intake vents. Before I continue improving it, I’d really like to know if I’m enclosing the correct intake(s).
If anyone has experience with this specific model (or the equivalent Midea unit), could you please tell me if my setup looks correct or if I’ve made a mistake?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Follow up from the original post https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYHeatPumps/s/2jaAxUZYx0
It is done! quite a bit of work but it is well worth it. the whole house is now a nice consistent temperature. i lost my energy monitor in the panel for some reason so have a new one on order but i have watched it with a clamp meter and it’s run anywhere from 4-14 amps and is dead quiet. i used the TL04-1 in communicating mode to the mitigation board. furnace is two stage. the mitigation board determines when to ramp up or down the blower fan in relation to set point and evaporator temperatures. everything is so much quieter than my existing R410a Trane system (2020 build dates). only major complaint is with the TL04-1 you can no longer disable constant fan. going to give it about a week after my new energy monitor comes in then swap back to my ecobee to see if there really is a huge efficiency loss.
new supply plenum and re routed a lot of the duct work to make easier access around the unit. air flow is greatly improved without the old leaky supply plenum.
side note, i did not plumb up the furnace yet. it was 120° in the attic all weekend so i will wait for houston summer to dial back to finish that part.