r/DIYHeatPumps

Image 1 — 24k Gree Sapphire DIY install in New England
Image 2 — 24k Gree Sapphire DIY install in New England
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Image 10 — 24k Gree Sapphire DIY install in New England
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Image 14 — 24k Gree Sapphire DIY install in New England
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Image 20 — 24k Gree Sapphire DIY install in New England

24k Gree Sapphire DIY install in New England

Finally got around to posting my DIY mini-split setup on our detached garage in New England. It heats and cools an upcoming 1,000 sq ft in-law suite upstairs, and after a full winter with single-digit nights and zero backup heat, this 24k Gree Sapphire has been an absolute beast.

To avoid vibrations transferring into the framing and keep it out of snow drifts, I anchored a DiversiTech offset bracket straight into the poured concrete foundation. Had a electrician fish a dedicated 240V circuit across the garage, then I took over and wired up the disconnect with an AG3000 surge protector (plus Square D HEPD80 surge protector at the actual panels) i ran a liquid-tight whip, and pulled 14/4 shielded tray cable with heat-shrink on the terminals for the communication wire.

Also patched the siding where an old framed-in sleeve A/C sat and moved my propane tanks for clearance. Bending that 5/8" line was a fight —my Harbor Freight bender met its match, so I had to gently warm the pipe to sweep it cleanly without kinking. I Cut the factory flares, re-flared with a NAVAC tool, put a dab of Nylog on the seats, and torqued to spec with a CPS BlackMax wrench.

I Rented a nitrogen tank from airgas and did a pressure test before pulling a deep vacuum and cracking the valves. Whatever you do, don't skip the nitrogen test—plenty of connections hold a vacuum fine but leak under positive pressure and by nitro testing it replicates actual operating pressures. I know many get lucky skipping this step and have no problems but for the cheap peace of mind i feel it’s important for the longevity of your unit to be properly nitrogen tested and be 100% sure that it’s not gonna have a slow leak over time.

On our 18¢/kWh municipal electric rate, running it barely moves the needle on the monthly bill. All in for what I paid for this unit you can’t beat it - I’d put it up against the big dogs like Mitsubishi , Fujitsu , daiken etc. Spec for spec it’s very close for cold weather performance at a fraction of the cost.

Tip: Gree Sapphires and Blueridge S5 units are the exact same hardware under the hood, just rebadged, and you can often find the Blue-ridge for way less. Especially if you check there clearance section at alpine airs website. They also include a DIY warrant and great customer support I’ve heard for help when doing your install.

Happy to help and answer any questions - I spent a lot of time learning in this group and am appreciative of it!

u/1d0wn5up — 3 days ago

Yes, servicing this will incur an unusually higher charge.

I love DIY installs. This one's in a ritzy neighborhood. Not like they're worried about copper thieves.

If I have to get on a ladder or use a crane to service your heat pump the service charge increases in correlation to the height.

10x higher off the ground than necessary... 10x my normal rate... Ladder falls kill more construction workers every year than electrocution. Think about it.

u/OzarkPolytechnic — 12 days ago

New LG Mini Split—Cools but does not heat?

Title mostly says it. Had a knucklehead contractor that installed this for me, and doesn’t seem to know what he was doing. One sob story after another, and now he has completely ghosted me, and so have limited information about what was and wasn’t done. I haven’t installed on myself, but am fairly handy and wondering if any ideas for troubleshooting before I call an HVAC company out. Hoping the brain trust has some ideas for me. Definitely learned my lesson.

Description of issue: New install LG 2 ton unit. Cooling works, but maybe not as well as I would have guessed. Temperature was about 20 degrees below garage (garage 65 here where we live.) The heat does not work at all—tried to turn it on and the unit never blew. The lines appear to have frozen when the heat setting was turned on, and the compressor was not engaging. This makes me think maybe a Freon leak when it was installed? Maybe the 4 way valve failed, but doesn’t seem super likely out of the box?

Any ideas of things to check for? If other problems are visible, please let me know so I can get a list together of what should be fixed. Be as mean as you want, I honestly think it would have looked better if I had just done it myself from the start but oh well lol.

u/lin8111 — 14 days ago

New install issues

Newly installed (2.5 weeks) minisplit (2 zone senville) stopped cooling and heating. The two heads are a 24k and a 12k. I first noticed that when I would run just the 12k head it would throw a pc03 code (pressure issue) but the 24k head never did, when I ran both heads the 12k wouldn't throw the code. I felt that neither head was really blowing very cold so I got a thermometer and sure enough they are only putting out less then 5° below room temp air on max cool. I hooked the manifold guages to the service ports for both heads and was reading 25psi on the low side. My first thought was "great I have a leak". I pumped down the system back into the outdoor unit and revacuumed the lines but am showing no leak. Side note when I pumped them down I had the guage hooked up to the low side of one line set, closed the high side and it only went down to 10psi, then switched ports to the other line set it was also at 10psi then closed that high side and it went to 0psi and started to go negative. Not sure if that means anything. Anyway after I revacuumed I charged the lines and checked pressure with units off and had over 350psi, when I turned the units back on it was at 10psi again. Also the main service port is the same, 350psi when off and 5psi when on. I did the "wiring and piping fix on the outdoor pcb it displayed "ce" just like the manual said it should then after 10 mins flashed pc31, low pressure issue. What's causing this, the 350psi when off tells me theres refrigerant in the unit. A Google search tells me there may be a stuck EEV/TXV valve. But this unit is brand new. Im not sure how that would be the issue. Has anyone delt with anything like this before? The lines not going to 0psi when pumped down until I did both line sets also seemed weird to me. Any ideas? I opened a ticket with senville. If it is that valve does the system need to be fully evacuated to replace it? If so it would almost be cheaper to buy a whole new outside unit then to have someone come do that work. Also i turned both units on full blast cold for about an hour before hooking the guages up, when I went to hook up the guages the high side fitting at the unit for both line sets had frost on it, but only at the connection right at the outdoor unit, nothing on any copper. Also I did check pressures on each line with only that lines vavles open.

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u/Fancy-Pie-993 — 13 days ago

Senville question

I installed a 38000 btu unit with a 24000 head and a 12000 head, when I run just the 12000 head on cool I get the pc03 code, but when I run both or just the 24000 head I have no issues. My question is what the heck is that about?

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u/Fancy-Pie-993 — 14 days ago

Installing a Senville Aura using the alternate rear hole.

Any good instructions/videos on how to connect the linesets indoors when you use the alternative exit hole through the back?

I've fished my lines through from outside and am now having some decision paralysis figuring out the order of next steps - when to bend the pipe, cut and make the new flares, lift the indoor unit up, feed out the drain line, connect the refrigerant lines, etc.

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u/UntidySwan — 14 days ago