r/DIYHeatPumps

I started checking my AC system before the real heat hits. So far I’ve cleaned/replaced the filter, checked the fins, cleared debris around the outdoor unit, and made sure the drain line looks okay.

I’m curious what everyone else does for pre-summer AC maintenance. Are there any things most homeowners forget to check?

Do you guys do maintenance yourselves or just schedule a yearly HVAC service?

Also interested in hearing about the small things that made a noticeable difference in cooling performance or electric bills. Trying to avoid problems before the first major heat wave hits.

Super niche but has anyone had success selling a mini split they didn't need?

I bought a concealed ducted unit from pioneer and it's past the 45 days to return it. Anyone ever had luck getting a return after that? I assume no. I have an ad up on Craigslist but has anyone had luck selling something like this?

Figured I would ask here

We live in Mammoth Lakes, CA and have been finding it difficult to find an HVAC company to quote a minisplit system for us. I think we're ready to throw in the towel and go the DIY route.

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We got one quote for $29k for a 36k btu Mitsubishi hyper heat with 4 indoor units, not including any electrical work or permit. This seems very high.

Another company came over to look at our space and recommended Samsung, but now they've ghosted us.

A third wants at least $300 just to have a look, which fair enough, but haven't pulled the trigger on them yet.

There are a few more options that I'll contact, but being in a small rural area, prepared to not find a pro.

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Our specs:

- Downstairs is 550 sq ft, L shaped, 8' ceilings.
- Three upstairs bedrooms, all about 150 sq ft.
- We live at 8,000' elevation.
- According to the town, our winter design temp is -2F (summer 74F).
- I did an online manual J for our downstairs area (can't remember the site now, but it has been recommended on this sub) and got 15-16.5k btu heating. I do not think this accounted for our elevation, though.

Our setup:

- We primarily use the wood stove downstairs for heating, but want a heat pump to maintain 65-68ish overnight or when we don't light the fire.
- Also have baseboard and wall heaters; these would be removed in rooms where indoor unit added.
- Interested in AC for when we close our windows for wildfire smoke.
- No possibility for ducting. Upstairs we have lofted ceilings with giant beams and no attic.

Our challenges:

- One of the bedrooms would require the indoor unit to both be mounted on an inside wall, and have the lineset run through walls/floors to later become mostly inaccessible (without ripping into finished surfaces). Samsung guy said no to this, Mitsubishi said it would work. We are fine either way, thoughts?
- Our elevation makes sizing a challenge I think?

Other questions:

- I was thinking either 15k or 18k for downstairs, and 6k for each room. Does that sound right?
- Mr Cool for the DIY aspect, so we can have a warranty?
- Any other thoughts or considerations?

Appreciate any guidance you can give me, thank you!

Wanting to install a mini-split to cool/heat my garage, which is not an actual living space, but I do spend a lot of time working in it.

21 ft deep x 31 ft wide x 12 ft walls plus 4 ft above that to the peak. Double-wide garage door and single-wide garage facing West. It is attached to the house but has no wall insulation.

One inside unit or two?

In Virginia, the lowest I've seen is 2° and the highest is 106°. So not as extreme as some of you.

Thanks........

https://preview.redd.it/e121t6bqgz1h1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1f2f8d9b1949507459a8663e85e72c962c21270b

https://preview.redd.it/wtgt26bqgz1h1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cac2f2f70520903270b16ec409f07b07afebeb6a

I’m doing my research to install a 3 zone (9k, 9k, 18k) multi zone gen 5 MRCOOL system. The two 9k will be in my kids bedrooms on second floor and the 18k in the living room below one of the bedrooms. I have a friend who owns an HVAC company I did a bathroom for (I’m a tile contractor) and it was supposed to be a free labor for free labor trade but he said I’d have to pay him labor on top of the 15k cost for a 4 zone Mitsubishi setup. So here I am

Just curious if anyone else has taken on a project like this here. Any tips appreciated. Also wanted to know the life expectancy for one of these multi zone units of regular cleaning is adhered to in New England area?

Worth noting we also have baseboard heat so these units would be supplementary in the winter

I’ve had my Costway 18k mini split a couple of months now. A few weeks ago we had temps up and over 105° here and the mini split did just what it should. Now the last 2 days above 90° it just can’t seem to keep up. This morning I did the hand in front of the vent test and air felt as cold as it’s been but once the unit starts falling behind the same test has a slightly warmer air. Still very cool but not really cold. Checked the evaporators and don’t see any ice. Checked the app and inside temperature is showing warmer than set temperature by 2 to 3 degrees. As an experiment I’ve turned the set point down another 3 degrees to see if that changes anything.
What else can I check?

Hello community I want help from all of you regarding a cooling system I am thinking to add to a rather strange pc-laptop hybrid which I want to make in future. It is going to be a chamber structure is like a building having door as exhaust. Full build is like this

For cpu only:

Open place for air

160x160x25 mm fan 1500rpm cw 0.5mm gap 140x140x25 mm fan 1800rpm ccw 0.5mm gap 120x120x15 mm fan 2100rpm cw 5mm gap 60x60x30 mm cu heatsink Cpu- ryzen 5 5600xt --------------------> exhaust to rear

For gpu only: rtx 3060 282mm lentgh there is two cloumn to cover whole gpu lentgh

Open air

140x140x25mm fan same as above
0.5mm gap 140x140x25mm fan same as above 0.5mm gap 120x120x15mm fan same as above 5mm gap Original gpu heatsink ----------> exhaust rear

Both exhaust connect at same place in Y shape at the joining place there is one of those gpu blower fan

I have a Tosot 2 Zone Mini split I installed in the fall. All through the winter the heating worked great in both zones. Now that it's getting hotter the cooling is not working out.

Zone 1 gets super cold very quickly, and then zone 2 doesn't get cold at all. Even when zone 1 is off and zone 2 is blasting, the head in zone 1 freezes over instead of the coolant going to the other zone.

What are some things I can do to troubleshoot this issue? The filters are clear, the drain hoses are unobstructed, and the connections are tight. I'm planning on re-flaring the ends and reassembling it, but I'm not sure if that's the right way to go about it.

Here's an image of the zone 1 head after the zone 2 has been blasting at high for an hour while zone 1 is off.

EDIT: Solved! The communications wires were swapped. After fixing the issue it's cooling no problem!

https://preview.redd.it/6v5yq7q0hk0h1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9b91398dc6f4df14f91baea0f6823afb8f957181

I'm trying to find what the newer 3 ton universal unit can handle for its minimum CFM. I was looking to split my home into 2 zones 1 per floor, but the second floor is substantially smaller. All advice is welcome!

Hello, I'm looking to replace our current 3 ton system. I live in an area where electricity is ridiculously expensive, close to $.50 per kWH, so I would want have a furnace. My current furnace is in good shape so I think I want to keep that.

My plan is to replace the R22 evaporator and condenser, with:
- 3 Ton MrCool VersaPro Central Heat Pump Condenser
- 2.5 to 3 Ton MrCool Evaporator Coil 
Along with the no-vac lineset. I do have my 608 certification so I am not shy to have to handle refrigerant and brazing lines or what not, but for just replacing one unit, I don't want to buy the brazing tools, gauges, manifolds and such just to use once or twice.

The reason why I am looking into the above combo is that I can use the no-vac line set. If there's a cooling only condenser that uses no-vac and works with the A-Coil's controller and is 454b, I'd jump on that.

Any other suggestions? And is there a way I can lock out the heat portion of the heat pump completely and only use the furnace?

I‘m trying to cool one room in my house without spending a ton, so lately i’ve been thinking about installing a mini split myself instead of paying for full installation. I‘m reasonably handy and have done normal DIY stuff around the house before, but never anything HVAC related. Looking at a smaller costway system for the room. Mostly wondering how difficult this actually is for a first timer and what parts people usually mess up. Anything specific i should pay attention to before deciding whether to attempt it myself?

Hey all, looking for some advice.

I’ve had two very different quotes for an ASHP install:

• Local installer: £9,800
Includes a 10kW Ideal heat pump, all radiators replaced, 2 additional radiators installed, and new pipework throughout. This quote was done after a full survey.

• EON Next: £6,600
Includes a 12kW Vaillant system, 210L tank, and around 60% radiator upgrades. This one is still pending survey.

For context, my house is currently EPC E. I’m also getting solar panels and a battery installed in the next couple of weeks. The heat pump is partly to improve the EPC and hopefully add some value to the property long term.

My questions are:

1. Does the EON quote sound too good to be true compared to the local installer?
2. How much usually changes after the EON survey?
3. Do heat pumps actually add value to a property in the UK, or is it more about future proofing and lower running costs?
4. Would you personally trust a large national installer over a smaller local company for this kind of install?
5. How was your experience with EON ?

Would appreciate any thoughts or experiences, especially from anyone who has gone through the process recently.

Im looking to install a 18000btu unit at my house. Ideally, I would get the 50' line set, but the unit is only precharged to 25'. The manufacturer recommends adding 8oz to top up the unit. Unfortunately, the hvac installers around here dont seem to want to touch a diy job. Is 8oz difference going to be critical? Do I have other options for adding refrigerants? Thanks