r/ElantraN

Took my EN in today for part of the free basic maintenance (oil change, tire rotation, and inspection) had my son with me we went around lunch so he was hungry when we left. I noticed a faint smell of oil when we parked at McDonald's but didn't think much of it because ya know some times small spills happen. On my way further home I saw some smoke coming from my front passenger side so again I say it's probably oil but I'm going to pull over and check. Low and behold they didn't put my oil cap back on. I will be going back tomorrow to have them detail my car now (pictured is exactly how everything was when I popped the hood....

Suburban Hyundai of Troy in Michigan

Btw on the issues with button mapping everyone should go complain to their local dealer it's the only way it's going to get fixed by corporate.

Has anyone got this done before? And is this a reasonable price? CAD prices

Brought my car in for some standard maintenance, asked them to put my woosh titanium oil drain plug on and they exclaimed that it would void my warranty. I laughed quite a bit and said this plug is better quality than the OEM plug and legally you cant void my warranty over something like an oil drain plug unless you can prove that it caused a failure which it won't unless there's an off chance it's a crappy plug and causes a leak over time. I'm only here for the free maintenance I genuinely hate dealerships.

regal in KOP. the pb is gorgeous and i wish you got to see my cyber grey! drive safe

I have the right coolant to top it off and the car has been cold 24hrs. I’m just seeing a lot of mixed responses regarding bleeding, is it necessary? Or can I just top off between min/max and monitor? Lots of “scare” with trapped air.

I know there’s a lot of posts regarding coolant with this car, but don’t see many touching on the bleeding part. Any professional insight is appreciated

Edit: I’ve had the car nearly 2 years, never seen coolant this low and can’t see any obvious leaks from the engine bay. Will probably take it in soon to be sure everything is good.

So yeah it’s been quite a series over this one

(Just to name a few:
(https://www.reddit.com/r/ElantraN/s/RwwjnFcxjG)

(https://www.reddit.com/r/ElantraN/s/yJCYjO1mV4)

(https://www.reddit.com/r/ElantraN/s/BuRQC65wma))

Yesterday I finally picked up my car!

Right now doing break in so impressions are limited but even during normal mode and break in driving it feels sharp and sporty. I’m sure I’m going to have a blast with this one.

One thing that is super annoying: the clutch! It’s not my first manual car and on day one I already stalled it three times!!

How do you start a drive with this thing smoothly? It’s either not enough gas and stall or too much gas and feeling like I’m riding the clutch too much!

Octane learning: is it working better with 93 or can I stick to regular 91 or maybe I shouldn’t bother with it anyway.

Break in - I know I should stick to 4000 RMPS max but is it recommended to get to 4000 or I should just drive until 3000 RPMS at most? And did you all change oil after 600 miles?

Happy to be part of this community. Thank you!

Ghosted by Shark Racing. Bought a Mando ECS10 for my 25 6speed from these people. Even over email you get a sense of there being a superiority complex or something. Businesses (or atleast this one in particular) definitely seem to not favor customer satisfaction or care about when people who literally support them have a problem with a transaction or product initiated with them. They sent me a unit manufactured in 2019, very easily verified. A unit older than the one I had before on my 2022. The key detail here is the facelift has revised ECS protocols and programming in the canbus system where the PFL Mando Unit doesnt read the same way when spliced to pin 10 and 11 on the the M01 plug under the steering wheel. This is old news and I had been aware of the difference since before I bought the FL. The company who manufactures the unit made an announcement about this product. I dont remember if the unit itself processes the information differently or the pin outs themselves have changed location. There is something different about the PFL versus the FL. Its not "plug in the same way" as the only reply email I ever recieved from this place said. Its a shame because I had originally bought my Hyundai Performance Intake from this guy back in a late 2022 group buy. I bought the inlet a couple years later when they seemed to have one appear and I even bought a couple replacement filter elements from him over the years. If you take anythjng away from this is these people think because they are on the other side of the planet, there is no recourse for the customer. In Korea, I wonder if they have the phrase, "what goes around, comes around"...🤔🤔🤔 Think twice before choosing these people to hand your money to, there are often less expensive and more secure ways to do business with people who actually have integrity and wont ghost you. Mando ECS10 us a crazy good product. I have one for sale cheap. PFL only

Came out 7th for the day out of 40+ cars.

Go drive your cars.

Anyone else have anything similar on their N? Just bought this car brand new last week and noticed what looks like left over adhesive/residue on that corner near the headlight. I assumed it was just from the shipping film after they took it off but now its starting to peel up and it looks like primer underneath. Definately going to talk to the dealer ASAP but wasnt sure if anyone else had a similar experience. Also yes it was there before I put the drl overlays on lol

I saw this posted the other day and bought the file to print it.

Printed on Bambu H2S in PETG 1.5hr print time.

I modified the file to get rid of the remote start button that the manual doesn't have.

Need to reprint with setting changes to get rid of button shadow. Also need to order a new printer bed plate to get rid of sparkly texture.

I'm not the designer. I will post the creators link below. He is super responsive and was willing to make modified versions.

Etsy Link

I bought a 26 EN back in July. Ive been watching the sub for a min and finally decided to pull the trigger. Highly recommend it if anyone is thinking about getting one.

Edit grammar

Just a picture dump of doing Autocross this past Sunday.

I’m getting an alignment done this Saturday, along with installing camber bolts. And then I’m ordering 265/35/18 200TW tires for my 18x9.5” wheels that I’ll use for track duty only…..Hoping I get good camber up front so everything fits nicely.

I’ve also been going back and forth what color to make these track wheels….I saw a post that asked about red wheels, and that got me thinking about it. But not sure I want to stray from satin black as it fits the theme and looks so damn good IMO

I might want to try something crazy as these will only be on the car for 2 days at a time lol.

Long story short, an employee at Discount Tire gouged the crap out of my steering wheel and they've already filed an insurance claim on my behalf. (I'm presuming the employee had something with a metal clip on the outside of his pocket and dragged it along the edge of the wheel while either getting in or getting out of my Veloster N 6MT.) Getting ahead of this, I'm quite certain I'm going to need a new steering wheel, and I plan to make sure they pay for it.

QUESTION: In the off-chance that an aftermarket or KDM option is either cheaper or more desirable as a replacement, does anyone have a recommendation for what to get or where to source one?

#SanDiego