Hi,
I am printing something with exposed honeycomb infill by removing the top/bottom layers. I set them to 0.
The thing is it removes also layers inside the model - they probably register as top/bottom layers as well.
How can I remove only the topmost layer and most buttom layer without affecting the middle layers?
You can see in the picture the bottom of the round part is also missing.
I am using crrality slicer.
Thanks M
So my fans "gave out" around 5 weeks ago, and I wasted no time ordering new 5015 fans. The fans finally came, and they do not work. I tested the pins for the fans with a multimeter, and they gave no output (while turned on!). tested on both fan ports and no output voltage.
Please help!
Timelapse is a bit too fast, but you can see that at some point it seems there was either a massive nozzle crash or fault in bed adhesion.
The material i used here is Silver PETG by Masterprint, the same material i have been using for a good while now with a pretty fine tuned profile. This is the first big oof moment using this material.
Any Thoughts?
Estou tentando imprimir essa peça usando PLA, porém sempre que coloco ela ou outras peças que necessitam de suporte logo no começo (ou até mesmo peças que não precisam), a primeira camada começa meio solta, o que atrapalha as demais camadas a imprimir pois começa a empurrar o filamento. Alguma dica ou solução para este problema?
Também aceito dicas e auxilio para encontrar o perfil bom para imprimir com pla no orca
After fixing the printer since the blob of death, it’s doing horrible. A single retraction stops it from extruding as the filament wont go down. (Very slightly). Also, it would make creaking noises sometimes. (not on video)
The only upgrade I had was the heatsink/nozzle from creality. I don’t think that’s the problem.
I want to know if it’s because of the extrusion or what before I waste my money on buying an extrusion kit.
I have a Creality Ender 3 v3 se printer I bought used 1 1/2 years ago.
Overall, it's worked fine.
I've been using orca slicer for several months+ now, using the default settings for this printer, esun PLA+ and .12 or .2 layer with .4 nozzle. I haven't replaced the nozzle (it came with a spare nozzle).
I use different brands / types of PLA but overall, the esun PLA+ setting has made good results.
Recently went to print something using a spool of white PLA that had been open for maybe a year? And got a mess. I saw the nozzle / metal block was coated with a coat of the white filament and the rubber cap (which was already torn but previously had stayed on) had come off.
Processing img rj4cc37hqx1h1...
Thought it might need to be dried?
I did a retraction and with the nozzle / block hot, I wiped off the white filament / coating with a cloth.
I opened a sealed spool of white and tried again (different brand). Got this:
Processing img 6hxte30eqx1h1...
I cleaned the bed (as I usually do) with rubbing alcohol. Then with dish detergent / hot water.
I load a newly opened spool of brown. And getting these.
Processing img m491ne8kqx1h1...
Processing img aszdge8kqx1h1...
The lines aren't touching / adhered to others. Check the warm up line on the left - wobbly!?
I tightened bolts on the machine - none were loose anyway. It was a dramatic change / fail from working good to the first white mess. It was a different gcode / project than before. but by the time I got to the brown one... that is a gcode I printed fine before with that same brown filament.
I'm thinking the problems are not:
the filament (the 2nd white is new, the brown was used successfully before)
the bed adhesion (since I cleaned it good)
the gcode files. (since I tried a gcode file that printed fine with that brown before).
What to check on the machine?
Would you bother replacing the rubber cap around the nozzle because it's torn? Leaving it off, I'd think there'd be more heat loss from the nozzle?
THANKS!
It seems to me that stopping a print loses motor location and thus, it wants to rehome, which isn't possible with most prints.
I don't understand why it does that, but I'm curious if there is some workaround, quite heated right now, I lost this 20 hour print 14 hours in due to a freak power outage, and apparently the gods hate me because now for the first time ever, I lost it 15 hours in due to a fillament snap...
Seems to me the option of measuring with a caliper and restarting gcode at that layer would be nice, but it doesn't seem possible.
I had a problem with my extruder stepper but the connection got loose. Can anyone send me a picture of their stepper so I can compare ?
My KE hits the nozzle against the infill on all large prints, and it only gets worse the higher the print. I see this is a fairly common problem, has anyone found a real solution? The common advice is to avoid overlapping infills, but I don't want to be stuck with gyroid for all my prints.
Boa tarde. Recentemente enviei aqui meu problema com o hotend original, que se rompeu completamente.
Importei um Hotend Upgrade, aquele compatível com os bicos unicórnio, e instalei. Funcionou corretamente por uma semana. Hoje fui imprimir uma peça maior, circula e o resultado foi isso. Não danificou a placa nem nada, mas ao que parece, perdi mais um Hotend.
Não fiz nada fora do normal na máquina, mas acabei de perceber que a têmpera estava errada.
O que posso fazer? Da pra recuperar ou só um novo?
Every print has an issue. This was going great, went out and came home and it’s just decided to shift its print. 😩 doomed. Any help appreciated. Resets, changed settings, gone with advice, levelled the bed. I’m at a loss
Need to do a 600g print and only have like 2 400g rolls...
I've never had fillament runout on me and obviously don't want to waste the 400 grams and then it crap out on me.
Just need some confidence instilled that it will properly pause and park itself in the corner until I switch rolls and then resume...
I have the ke and have been printing without any prob. Yesterday i printed something and the first layer seems pretty uneven as the pla didnt stuck well while the rest of the layers came out looking perfect. Im using creality hyper pla and it had been draying for more than 8 hours.
How can i fix this and why is it happening.
My prints are starting great, running real smooth. Then at some point, always random. The nozzle just scrapes and smears the print non stop and makes a mess. Happens every print. Any ideas? Really over this printer. Nothing but issues.
I'm having trouble with my first layer—it doesn't look pressed down enough in one spot and is too pressed down in another
What I tried: manual z-offset calibration, manually leveling the bed using shims (https://www.printables.com/model/733411-ender-3-v3-seke-bed-leveling-shims/files)
These defects always appear in the same places, no matter how carefully I calibrate the table using shims.
Filament - Creality Hyper PLA
Print temperature - 215°C, bed temperature - 55°C
Im looking at upgrading from my ender 3 v2 and was set on getting the v3ke. However due to the sale right now I can get the v3 plus for only 100 cad more then the v3 ke. Is the v3 plus worth it over the v3ke? With the sale its right around what I was originally expecting to pay for the ke so im kind of leaning towards the v3 plus but wondering if there's any down sides to it vs the v3 ke
I own a Ender 3 V3 KE, bought a couple of years ago, just upgraded to the Unicorn hot end. I don't use it for work or anything "absolutely needed" , I just print some things when I need them.
I have a "coupon" I can use to buy some things "technology related". Other things I own are quite recent, so I thought about a second printer. It's like 400 Euro, expires in June.
I've seen the Creality K2 SE or the SparkX i7 , are them good models?
Is a closed printer better only when printing abs or there are other reasons?
Maybe I could keep one printer loaded with PETG and another with PLA?
Or maybe this is just a bad idea and I'd better keep only the KE?
PLA at 210c with a 0.6 nozzle.
Its a basic tray, i mean, really basic, but the printer shits the bed every single time. Once it gets about 3mm tall, the nozzle clogs and it prints in the air. My work around is to put a pause in the gcode at 3mm, then resume it later.
It isn't an issue with the height, as I can print taller things without fail, just this thing.
