r/Ender3V3KE

A while back i heard my fans making a noise that didn’t sound normal and opened a ticket with creality and they said it was normal but there was a clear difference in the noise they sometimes made when i turned it on. Normal turning it of and on 1-3 times fixes it but just now i turned it on and it made a pulsing mechanical noise like the sound it makes when leveling(but it’s the fans not motor). I’ll try and figure out how to attach sound bites but until then has anyone else came across this and if so how did you fix it?

TLDR: How do I fix the noise from my fans.

My hotend fan recently started to die. How do I know? Because it would make an awful whirring noise as the hotend was heating up before resolving itself once the temp got above 180. The problem is the hotend fan uses an oil lubricant which isn't as sturdy as ball bearings, plus it sits on its side all day which hastens the end of its life.

When I started shopping around for replacement fans I realized I didn't know shit about fans, so here's what you need to know (ie, here's what I learned after some time on Discord and researching fans). First, you need a 25x25x10 mm fan, often called a 2510 fan. It's probably smaller than you're imagining. You also want to make sure it's got a two wire connection. It might not have the right size connector, but you can cut and solder the old connector to your new fan, just make sure you don't get the wires crossed. Also, make sure it's 24V and 0.1A

The most important metric you should be looking for is CFM, cubic feet per minute. I can't find reliable data about what the base CFM is for the KE fan but you should be looking for something above 3.5 CFM. If the vendor doesn't list CFM, it's probably too low. The risk of an overheated hotend is the blob of death. Nobody wants the blob of death.

The other thing to make sure of is that the fan has ball bearings. If you see something like "sleeve" or "hydraulic," it has the same oil-based lubrication as the original and will have a shorter life. There are maglev fans that have a longer life than either but I haven't found a reliable vendor for those for 2510 fans. The only caveat to all this is that the hydraulic/sleeve bearings are quieter than the ball bearings.

When it comes to installation, it should be a quick 15-minute process.

Remove the 3 hex screws from the hotend cover.

Remove the 4 Philips head screws from the 2510 fan which won't be in the cover itself, but directly attached to the hotend.

Unplug the fan. Just follow the wire and gently pry it loose or pull it out with some pliers (gently!)

Screw in the new fan. This can be a bit fiddly but I started with the bottom corner then did the top corners then the last bottom corner.

Plug the new fan in. Fiddly as well. I used tweezers to get it lined up before pushing it in all the way with a finger nail.

Re-attach the hotend cover. This bit's pretty easy.

Bob's your uncle.

Ask any questions if you've got them! If the thread has expired and you can't comment or reply, feel free to shoot me a DM

Hey everyone, I'm excited to share a project I've been working on: a comprehensive, one-click install automation system for 3D printers.

It works seamlessly across native Linux, WSL, and Chrome OS, and is designed to support virtually any 3D printer.

Key features include customized Klipper configurations and a dynamic, user-friendly control interface designed for maximum ease of access, speed, and stability.

Known Completed Configurations: Ender-3 V3 SE

Known Compatible Printers: Ender 3 V3 SE

If you have any recommendations on my next configuration setups please do not be afraid to let me know as I am looking for all suggestions for anyone who needs assistance.

Please note that this is a work in progress and is not completed. I am not liable for any damages, etc.

Hi everyone, I’m manually leveling my print bed because it has a 1.7mm variance. I’m using a spreadsheet to calculate point averages and determine the dimensions for new spacers, but I’ve started wondering if it would be a good idea to install those adjustment wheels and springs and use the Screw Tilt Calculate feature. Is this a good option, or would it be considered a step backward? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I was using an Ender 3 V2 for a long time until a friend reached out and said he has a V3 KE for me to upgrade from my current set-up. The only problem is, I think the touchpad has been upgraded to a Nebula pad, and the firmware seems to be GuppyScreen 0.0.26-beta. I haven't been able to find any good guides on how to uninstall the firmware and revert it back to the latest version of the standard firmware. Can someone please point me in the right direction for a step-by-step guide to reset it back to basics? Thank you.

hi I'm new to 3d printing i want to know what setting is good to use i use creality slice and cura slicer what should i change from the preset settings to help adheation + no print failing I've seen a lot of my prints fail for no reason

All of the posts and videos are from 1-2 years ago. Installed GuppyKE (openKE) and downloaded all the extensions. And followed all of the instructions from the KAMP repository. Could someone please walk me through the steps?

Anyone who helps will be appreciated and considered a legend

I have issues with PET-G printing, especially with the first layer.

Here's my current settings :

• Bed is (i think) leveled (see picture)
• Z-axis comp. is currently at -2.34.
• Bed temp at 80°c
• Noozle at 230°c

bed levels

Seeting looks good imo, but the first layer won't stick ! I tried to print flat surfaces (see gif's) but a lot of filament don't stick to the plate. I also tried to add 10°c to the plate temp, but no diffrences.

I feel like the noozle position is too high, but the z-axis comp is already at -2.34. To be honnest, I'm a little lost with the z-offset setting. The z-comp seems to indicate that the noozle is pretty high.

Can it be the problem ?

Otherwise, maybe it's the material flow threw the noozle (not clean enough, or the tip is damaged).

Do you have any ideas ?

bad first layer