r/ErgoMechKeyboards

Accidentally made my 1st post a question, my bad :)

Spray-Coated Black with White Badges and Silver Buttons and Knob

Flex PCB

ALU Plate

Full Foam

TypePlus x YiKB Screw-In Stabs lubed with Kinetic Labs

WS Morandi Switches

AliExpress Keycaps :P

Have had this setup as my daily driver for about 9 months now, having swapped over to ergo from a Keychron K2.

After much looking and only a few scraped attempts. I finally built my own Totem keyboard in the MX footprint. I had to redesign the pcb and the case, which is where my multiple scraps took place. The batteries are connected via JST2.0 connectors. All of the Xiao boards are on hotswap headers in case I ever want to move them to a different project.
The case and the keycaps are currently just FDM printed from PLA, but I want to try getting some better keycaps eventually. There is also not tenting solution at the moment. But that is the next goal.
It uses the dongle method with 2 indicator LEDs on the dongle to signify when the keyboard halves are powered on and connected, with a flash when they go to sleep.
Now I am just working on learning to touch type, but it is going pretty well.

What the title says.

I wanted silent tactile choc, but alas, it's been years waiting and isn't looking promising. I really like the feel of the Sunsets, but they ain't quiet. I like the smooth silence of the Ambient Twilight, but they're linear. In the mean time, the choc v2 came out, and there's a lot more offered there now. I fell in love with Deep Sea Whale silent tactiles. The problem is that nearly all boards supporting V2 switches are also MX spaced to accommodate MX keycaps.

Looking for a choc-spaced ferris that could handle choc v2 switches came up empty. I don't know how to design PCBs, so I started looking for a choc spaced ferris PCB with traces far enough from the center hole that I could drill it out to fit a v2, and that led me to u/Folaefolc's Arkenswoop. The repo had all the bits, so I sent it off to JLC, and a couple weeks later I'm drilling out holes. It came really close on some of the holes (I nicked the trace on a couple, but didn't sever it), and managed to make it work!

• KLP Lamé Choc sized MX keycaps
• Cherry profile 1u convex for thumbs
• Used 1mm silicone edge protector for bumpons:
  • acts as perfect gasket between PCB and bottom plate (using 4mm spacers)
  • acts as bumpon feet, with enough clearance for magsafe ring (and screws heads)
  • acts as foot when tented with magnetic adapter for manfrotto pocket tripods. Can't say enough about how cool this is. The chonky magsafe adapters and pocket tripods add essential mass to keep it from wandering when tented at my desk. But they pop off really easily for those times I need to take it with me without all the bulk.
  • I may try to add the u-channel silicone all the way around the bottom plate. It'll be tricky cutting, but would make a slick protection to the underside components, and a nice edge all around.

It turned out really tight and solid feeling. I was already comfortable with my Rollow as a daily driver for years, so now I have better switches with basically an identical layout!

Happy typing to y'all.

[no promos involved in this post.]

Current daily driver. Been with her for a good 3 years now. I built probably 10 boards prior to settling on this. The hillside view is a custom PCB I found on here to support the nice view (https://github.com/wannabecoffeenerd/HillSideView/). Just switched to klp lame keycaps. I used Chicago stenos for awhile in the blue keys your see left but they just got so discolored.

I've been thinking about how to type while standing. Figured out that tapping my fingers on my lap while standing is comfortable enough. So you know what, lemme stick my corne keyboard onto my lap with magsafe (I put a magnetic magsafe ring inside my shorts)

the keyboard was wobbly when typing, but I managed to get 100 WPM on monkeytype 30s test

have you guys also thought of sticking the keyboard to your clothing (whether it's sitting or standing)? lr am I being crazy

No water transfer needed, just a pair of tweezers. Now let's see how long will they last.

​

Tldr: Do any of you know which MX switch feels like choc Robins?

I am using this chocofi at the moment. Low profile. Robin switches. https://a.co/d/0hbfKPSI

Absolutely love the feeling of these switches.

I'm going to make a ScottoSplit (uses MX) and want switches that closely resemble Choc Robins.

I asked Claude and the dummy told me Boba U4T switches are the best match. Well, I have two keyboards with Boba U4T and can guarantee they do not feel similar.

Tldr: Do any of you know which MX switch feels like choc Robins?

Hey everyone!

​I’m looking to customize my Corne v4.1 build by integrating an Azoteq TPS43 trackpad module over I2C.

​I noticed there are 4 free pin pads on the PCB that could be used for the I2C connection (VCC, GND, SDA, SCL).

​Has anyone wired a TPS43 to this specific board or similar RP2040 setups? Looking for any guidance on the wiring pinout, pull-up resistors if needed, and QMK/Vial firmware configuration to get it running properly. Thanks!

Keyboard : TvrdRadKeyboards Googootkah
Tilt : https://www.printables.com/model/1655418-tenting-kit-for-a-split-keyboard

I'm using a Phenom split with a concave keywell and dual trackballs. The stock tenting angle wasn't enough for me, so I designed and 3D‑printed wedge stands to tilt each half to ~25°. This keeps my wrists neutral and reduces forearm pronation.

With that much tilt, the keyboard sits high above the desk, so ordinary wrist rests don't reach. I printed custom armrest pedestals that support my forearms at the right height – no more floating arms.

On the firmware side, I mapped the left trackball for mouse movement and the right one for scrolling. Works great in CAD.

I’ve been testing Mill-Max sockets (i think these are 0305) on some of my boards as a way to add a hot-swap option to PCBs that weren’t originally designed for it.

So far I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how solid they feel. I also redesigned the plate so it attaches directly to the PCB, which gives the switches some extra support and makes the whole setup feel pretty stable.

What I’m really curious about is long-term durability. Has anyone here used Mill-Max sockets for a few years or gone through a lot of switch changes with them?

I’m especially curious about whether the sockets loosen over time, pull out when removing switches, develop connection issues, or have problems with certain switch types.

I know it’s probably never going to be quite as robust as soldering directly to the PCB, but my initial testing has been better than I expected. I’d love to hear from anyone who has used them long term.

I am pretty close to recording a review of this board but figured checking in here if people had questions about it that I should try and answer in said review.