I replaced my clutch lever after breaking the ball off on the original lever, and when I replaced it the lever is super loose and has zero tension and immediately stalls when I put the bike in 1st gear so I tried putting the original lever back on and having the same issue what am I missing?
I’m looking at buying my first bike to learn how to ride and I stumbled across this one at a relatively low price,
The seller has said the only issue is the high idle and I was hoping to hear if anyone might know the solution? I have a lot of time after work every day and enjoy the idea of having to fix it up but don’t want to commit to a ticking time bomb,
Thank you in advance for any information or tips
2007 Honda shadow 1100
Video of of my front wheel and brake. Is it supposed to sound like that? It does sound worse in the video but still. Are they supposed to be touching like that?
Also and what I'm mainly worried about... my steering feels very weird sometimes when I'm taking a turn like to the left or right onto another street
I didn't feel anything the first few times riding with my lady and then we went somewhere and it felt like the bike was going to lose control. Very strange feeling.
I checked the fork but holding break and pushing down but I don't really have a frame of reference for how it's supposed to be.
I have a Yamaha MT-125 2019, recently it didn't pass inspection. I thought the steering head bearing was worn out and I just wanted to replace it.
But as I was opening the steering head up I noticed that the 2 bearings looked fine but the frame where the bearing sit in are not round!! However as it looks its just the upper part (see pictures)
I know that one option is to just give it to a workshop but that's easily gonna cost 500€ and I don't have that.
I thought about maybe using 2K epoxy to fill up the gap between the ring of the bearing and the frame.... it just needs to pass inspection...
Any suggestions or other ideas?? Everything helps!!
So I got a 2003 gxsr 600 however the back of the bike doesn’t seem to show where to put my bracket or license plate cover, I also don’t have a bracket and was wondering if anyone knew where I can get one please.
Hey all. When starting the bike, RPMs will be in the 5K and will continue to climb until the 8K+ range as if the throttle is being held open.
Throttle is free, idle adjustment is all the way out, and intake boots are new with no cracks or obvious air leaks. Floats are also adjusted, jets are new, and carbs have been cleaned multiple times.
Out of ideas on what could be causing such a high idle. Anyone else have this issue or ideas on what I could be missing?
Thank you!
I’ve been having issues for a couple weeks now with my Honda Grom. Originally the battery died on my Grom randomly so I replaced the battery. It died later that day and people online said it was a stator/regulator rectifier issue. I bought a stator and regulator rectifier online. Now it’ll crank but not catch and start. I thought it was my battery being weak so I jumpstarted it with a jump box and somehow I fucked up and something sparked. Now when I press ignition button it’ll just turn off all electrical systems. I changed the fuses etc, and I’ve yet to get it to work. Can anyone please help me? I’ve bought a new starter relay by the way and it still isn’t helping.
I'm a fairly new rider and am planning on adding a slip on exhaust to my bike and was looking for some insight. I'm currently riding a 2024 Ninja 500 anniversary, and was recently told that I needed to get the bike tuned after adding a slip on.
The slip on that i got is the LeoVince LV Corsa (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/leovince-lv-corsa-slip-on-exhaust-kawasaki-ninja-400-z400-2018-2022?sku_id=10289291)
I've looked around on google and there seems to be a debate about this. Some say get the bike tuned, some say it doesn't need to be tuned if its just a slip on. I spoke to the shop i got the bike from and its even mixed there *FacePalm*...
Thank you for everyone's help in advance!
The bike was serviced by a shop ~12 months ago and got a full carb cleaning (and a few other minor things). I rode it a couple of times and noticed it was idling high, so I reduced the idle screw a few turns to where it idled smoothly when hot.
After a couple rides, life got busy and it went back into storage. Before storage, I put in a fresh tank of gas w/ added fuel stabilizer, I shut off the fuel petcock and then opened the drains on the carb bowls to empty any remaining gas, and closed those screws again.
Last week, I pulled it out of the garage and tried to turn it on. When I turned on the petcock, it leaked, and I saw the shop replaced the replaced the spring clamp that holds the fuel line to the petcock with a worm gear clamp, and there was a tiny cut in the line there; I trimmed a centimeter off the line, re-clamped it, and put it back on, and the leak is gone.
When I powered on the bike, it ran for a few seconds then stalled out. Repeatedly trying to start it did nothing. I tried fiddling with the choke, with no luck. If I let it sit for a few minutes, it turns over for a few seconds, then dies again.
I thought maybe the gas was stale or the carbs were clogged, so I unclamped the fuel line and drained ~1.5 gallons (all my gas can had capacity for) and added two 16 oz bottles of sea foam. I tried putting a little bit of sea foam straight down the fuel line, to get a higher mix in the carbs, but even a trickle was backing up and spilling over the top of the tube.
My fear is that the carb got clogged again, but as I think about, I'm leaning towards the fuel filter being clogged. That would explain both why it's starving out AND why the tube wouldn't accept more liquid. It makes some sense to me that, with the petcock closed and the bowl drains open, the fuel line would still be holding fuel (since it has no air return to allow it to drain) and that fuel in the filter could have gummed up over a year of sitting idle. Unfortunately changing the filter means taking off the seats, tank, and fuel line again, but that's a lot better than taking the carb out and cleaning it.
Can I get your feedback and ideas, before I launch into that?
Hey everyone, thanks in advance for the help. I’m looking for some opinions on an engine noise I'm dealing with.
My bike went down last November and sat until last week. I cleaned it up, replaced some cosmetics, and fired it up.
On startup, it was quiet for about 5 seconds, but then it started to chatter at idle. The noise increased as the RPMs went up.
Troubleshooting I’ve Done:
Chain tensioner: Checked it and it looks fine.
Clutch: Removed the cover and disassembled the basket. Everything looked fine upon inspection,
Current Status:
I put everything back together and the chatter is still there. It gets louder, but now it seems to happen mostly around 3,000 - 4,000+ RPM.
Does anyone have any idea what this could be? Let me know what you think. Thanks again!
Hello all,
I have a 2015 R1200GS LC with nearly 90k miles.
Last week I managed to drop it on wet grass after forgetting I was on road tyres rather than dual-sport tyres. Low-speed spill onto soft grass, but the rear subframe/tail section now appears noticeably twisted.
I’ve inspected the visible bolts and mounting points and I can’t see any cracks, broken paint, or obvious movement. The bike still rides normally and I’ve since done around 200 miles, including some light off-road, without any noticeable handling issues. Nothing appears to be touching the rear tyre.
My assumption is that the rear subframe itself has bent and the proper fix is probably to replace it with a used one. My concern is that any used rear frame for sale may have come from a crashed bike, so I’m not sure how wise that route is.
Has anyone here dealt with this before on an LC GS?
A few specific questions:
- Is the rear subframe usually repairable, or is replacement the sensible route?
- Can a mechanic/body shop safely bend it back into alignment?
- If it can be straightened, would the subframe need to come off the bike first?
- Are there any specific mounting points or cracks I should be checking before continuing to ride it?
Any advice appreciated.
My ninja 250r that I bought used at 17100km and never been dropped, has a problem recently I cut my stock exhaust in half but I think the problem was in it before hand. In 6th gear full throttle the bike hits 8000-9000rpm and refuses to climb higher so it stops at like 103km/h. It’s like there’s a wall or something but in neutral it hits 13000 rpm no problem, please help me and if you need any info to help!
Meine MT 125 2018 geht jedes zweite Mal c.a nicht an.
Nach mehrfachem versuchen zeigt das Tacho Batterie leer, jedoch zeigt sich beim Testen der Batterie das sie noch voll ist. Die Lichtmaschine wurde auch getestet und funktioniert. Auf dem Tacho ist jetzt noch die Elektronik Motor leuchte an. Beim stehen flackert das Display und manchmal kommt Batterie leer was aber wie gesagt nicht der Fall ist, da es direkt danach getestet wurde.
Woran könnte das liegen und was kann man machen ?
I need help replacing my forks.
I don't plan on rebuilding them if I don't have to, I just don't know how to replace them.
First and foremost - I'm new, thanks for understanding.
I bought a 1983 Honda Nighthawk 550 ~2 weeks ago. Started right up in front of my eyes without a hitch at the owners house, I even drove it home. The day after I got it home, terrible rain. (WA PNW) I tarp it up accordingly, today there was a break in the rain, I take it out to an empty parking lot to practice starting and stopping, tight turns, etc. (Again, I'm a new rider.) After killing it maybe 4-5 times, it starts idling really low (800~1000), a couple minutes after that, It won't start. I am assuming I killed it too much, and in turn started it too much, wore something out. I KNOW its not the battery, just to rule out a possibility - I bought a brand new battery for it 3 days ago. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks a bunch.
TL;DR bought a bike, ran great, I killed it a bunch, wont start. Thanks.
Hello all! I’ve been riding for 45+ years and I’ve always had imported bikes. They’ve been good to me, but I’ve always wanted a Harley. I’ve been especially attracted to the road king classic and my beautiful ‘05 recently came to me. I love her. Nearly every mod the previous owner has done is exactly what I would have done. The 16 inch tall apes are a bit tall for me, but they have grown on me a bit. We will see.
The problem with this machine- it was noticeably running lean. It had a aftermarket K&N filter and full Reinhart pipes so I assumed- not tuned. I took it into a shop, purchased a tuner & had it tuned.
Still was not running right. Occasional backfire at startup and was making a caugh “pfft!” through the induction when rolling the throttle on slow. I found the problem by spraying carburetor cleaner at the gasket where the manifold meets the rear cylinder, nearly shutting the engine down.
I took it into the shop to have gaskets swapped out, but that did not improve the leak, so I picked up an aftermarket S&S intake, manifold, and gaskets and expect them to be here next week.
Every time I took it to the shop, I had the thought why am I not doing this myself?? busy schedule, but I should be learning the ins and outs of this bike.
Anything y’all have to offer would be much appreciated. Really hoping this is the last round for this issue to get the bike running properly 🤞🏼🤞🏼
I wanted a little more noise while on the street but like to be quiet on the trails
I got the valve used on eBay, It came off an old tractor
I need to figure out a good way to open and close the valve easily, I’m using a bent wire hanger and three washers welded together for now
It’s obnoxious with the valve open but it makes me smile 😃