r/Fixxit

Hey everyone,
I’m hoping someone with experience on the Honda Shadow VT1100 can point me in the right direction because I’m stumped.

The bike had been sitting for several years before I got it. I’ve been slowly bringing it back to life.

So far I’ve:

Removed and thoroughly cleaned both carburetors.

Cleaned the jets and passages.

Installed a new fuel pump.

Verified the bike starts and will idle.

Adjusted the idle speed to a steady idle using the remote idle adjustment knob.

Current symptoms
Starts without much trouble.

Idles indefinitely and never stalls while just sitting.

Fuel pump clicks every few seconds while idling (not continuously).

The moment I begin opening the throttle, the engine bogs and dies.

It doesn’t matter whether I snap the throttle open or roll it on slowly—the result is the same.

I also get some popping from the exhaust.

I had my 2025 Ninja 500 abs stolen from me recently, but it was recovered! They ripped apart the ignition system and locks so I need to replace that, but I cant figure out what they were trying to do under the tank.

My friend said they were maybe trying to hook up a auxiliary fuel tank but there's still fuel in the bike so idk. Mainly trying to figure out what they broke and what parts I'm gonna have to order to fix it.

I was poking around and saw that this cable connecting to the carb was loose. I think there may be a piece missing as it wont sit tight. Any insight is appreciated

This was a cold start with my muffler on I’m thinking this might be an exhaust leak, but I don’t know

I tightened my chain to within spec and it made things better but there is now a new noise I notice especially when in neutral. Seems to coincide with the speed of the chain.

This is my first bike, any advice would be much appreciated.

i just bought this bike and the E start doesn't work (thankfully it has a kick starter and it works fine). it made a high pitched whirring sound and either took a while to crank the engine, or it didn't turn over at all, where i then had to kick start it. other times it would just start right up like normal. this lead me to believe the starter clutch sprag was worn down (part 7 on the diagram). it is supposed to spin one way but not the other, and i believe mine is worn and spins freely.

ignorantly i pulled it apart and replaced part #6 which i originally thought was the problem. ive also tested the battery and it sits at 12.7v and dips down to 11.5v when using e start which i believe is completely normal. the only thing i can think of is it being that one way bearing/sprag being worn or completely broken. please let me know your thoughts.

For a little bit of context I took the rear wheel off to get the tire changed and when putting it back on, had some issues with the break not having any pressure.
Bled the full system and then it had pressure.
Pried the pads apart, or emailed to the caliper, push the rear break a couple times and they compress and have force, but don’t retract all the way.
They end up dragging on the rotor.
Enjoy my video hahaha.
Any help is appreciated greatly!

I heard a noise especially when hitting bumps, turns out its the chain (upper part) hitting the swing arm (i think thats the name)

So i undid the axel bolt and pull the wheel to tighten the chain. But even way tighter than it needs to be the top part of the chain still rests on the metal.

Why is this and how do i fix it?

(The pictured radiator and fan above is not actually mine, just posted for visual reference)

I’ve been struggling a bit with this for the past week. Radiator fan suddenly stopped coming on and is causing cooling issues and boiling coolant.

The thermoswitch in the radiator on this model has a single terminal which acts as a ground when it triggers. I shorted the wire that connects to this terminal to ground, to bypass the switch and test the fan, and the fan ran without issue.

After confirming the fan was operational, I replaced the thermoswitch with an Amazon unit that was like $12. Did not fix. After that, I replaced it with an OEM sensor. Still has not fixed.

I cleaned the terminal connector and bolt on what seems to be the fans ground cable (the center bottom bolt in the radiator assembly picture above).

Planning to try to clean the threads themselves where the fan switch threads in as well as where that bolt threads in (though I’ll probably double check continuity or maybe even try grinding that fan wire to a different spot on the radiator.

I’ve boiled over the coolant a few times thinking I was good, but temp light on my cluster never came on, so really hoping I haven’t caused any serious damage.

I did try a manual fan toggle switch for a day which worked, but I put it in a horrible spot and I forgot to turn it on AND off in the same day so I pulled it off, and I’m just gonna fix it properly.

Hoping for any direction or insight into this. It’s been pretty frustrating.

I’m like 99% certain the radiator is properly grounded, as I checked for continuity on multiple random bolts, the exhaust manifold, etc

Edit: Resolved!! I determined it was a pressure issue (hoses were soft), and double checked the new radiator cap. The ridges that the cap uses to press down on the top of the filler neck are worn, so when fully tightened, it actually loosens. I tightened the cap just short of full stop and now it’s sealing and maintaining pressure. Fan also came on properly with the fan switch. It’s resolved!!

2006 r6 clanking at low RPM and throttle

Please help me identify the issue 

I just bought this 2006 r6 and I’m super excited to ride it!

But shortly after I bought it it started with a rattle/clancking, it mostly just happens at low throttle and low rpm it’s the most prominent on a slight uphill (like in that video)

In the second video the bike is in neutral and warm.

The issue seems to be less severe when the bike just starts up cold and it seems to be worse when I listen to it after the ride when it’s warm( but I’m not completely sure on that haha)

The sound also seems to be coming from the left side of the bike, but I’m also not sure on that. It seems to be hard to pinpoint it (because otherwise I would suspect a cam chain issue)

At speed and normal operating RPM the bike seems to run pretty well tho.

The issue also seems to be getting worse which time 

As a sidenote, the bike also desperately needs a valve adjustment, but at least for that I know what the issue is.

Thanks to everyone for your advice