Finally found my dream truck and I couldn’t be happier with it! Only took a PCS to Colorado to find her lol
‘97 F250 7.3L short bed crew cab with freshly rebuilt transmission at 251k miles, mint interior, and clean title.
Just brought this Mercedes GLC220d 2016 OM651 2.1 diesel and few days later had a massive diesel leak. After investigating it’s coming from this small drain pipe (what I think it is), I replaced the pipe and tied it with wire temporarily and issue is fixed. I’m going to replace the filter. Fuel was shooting out of here when on ignition and running.
My question is, should fuel even be coming through this small pipe with that much pressure, is it normal? I’m a bit worried.
Am I doing this right? Got a 2026 can am turbo RR and a 17ft toy hauler with my F350 flatbed
Hello again everybody, This is a follow up to my prior post about finding metal shavings in my FWS housing. Per some of your suggestions, I pulled the FPR and I did find a small amount of shavings in the screen. As noted in my last post, the quantity valve was completely spotless. Now what's thrown me for a loop here is I found the same shavings I saw in my FWS, in all of my equipment and Jerry cans. I pulled my fuel transfer pump apart that i've been using to fill everything, and found it eating itself alive. All of the junk in my tank and FWS is in fact from my fuel supply. This regulator has thrown my off though, I thought I was out of the woods when I identified my source of contamination but there's still some debris in the FPR. I've already ordered a DPK and that will be going on next weekend, but should I also just change the pump while i'm at it since clearly something has gone through it? Thank you all once again!
Happy 4'th Y'all! I'm faced with a confusing situation here. Truck runs just fine, Went to change my fuel filters for routine service, found loads of metal particulate in the lower fuel bowl that looked just like cp4 shavings (shit, I know what that's from.) Pulled upper filter and dumped it out, found tiny particulate in that as well. Broke down and pulled the upper and lower intake to check the Control valve fully expecting metal shavings there too, but it was completely spotless. Not a hint of contamination there. My question is, should I just slap a DPK on it and let it ride? Or should I just replace the pump, and call it a day. (For legal reasons I cannot post what the control valve cavity looked like)
2016 F350 115K miles
As in the title, I have a hydra chip that tunes the injectors. For smog, setting it to 00 on the selector, the trucks runs terrible. I haven’t fixed a tune that runs it really smoothly, a little lower on the rpm’s and reduces the smoke to 0. For the California smog folks, would that program (not the 00 one) pass the OBDII portion? I’ve heard conflicting things saying that they will be able to see the fuel trim levels vs stock settings TO our pcm’s aren’t advanced to provide that through the obd.
Any one know the truth to this?
So I purchased a 2022 limited f250 last Monday.
Truck came with bags on the front with logIQ controller and today I saw my front psi drop fast on my left side. They leak on the engine side of the bag and it’s leaning forwards.
I want to get rid of them and run a level but need help choosing a kit to run on the truck.
Any suggestions on levels to run 37” tires?
This started last night - cranks, starts and then just idles in this painful manner. I’ve tried unplugging ICP sensor and IPR sensor. ICP sounded slightly different unplugged, but not better. It evens out a bit as I press on the gas pedal (which I do in the video), but not completely and it gets shaky again past 1000 rpm’s. I’ve also tried it in neutral to test for NSS.
Today, I changed the oil and filter and threw in some archoil 9100, as well as drained and put fresh oil in the hpop. Just to make sure it wasn’t my GPR I manually heated them up via pliers to poles.
She started right up, sounded great for about 10 mins while I drove around, and then right as I got home again it lost most power and I shut it off in the driveway. When I started it up again this painful lope repeated.
Pliers to poles didn’t do anything when I tried again, fuel bowl has fuel in it. I don’t have a scanner yet so I can’t hook it up unfortunately. This has happened before intermittently, just can’t figure it out. Any help appreciated, thanks all.
So I added an electrical fuel pump system to my 1994.5 powerstroke and the old fuel selector valve was too restrictive. So right now i just have the truck running off one tank bypassing the selector valve. I am wanting to continue using dual tanks and am looking into putting in the big 38 gallon rear tank as well. My question being, are there any good replacement for the old selector valve i would prefer an electric actuated but would be fine with a mechanical one if thats the only viable option. Thanks for any help on this
Just as the head says my rim has damage and rounded out lug holes is this fixable or do i need to just get new rims. Any recommendations i was gunna have them tig weld filled and re drilled. In orlando florida. I was googling and dr rim repair came up but the reviews speak other wise.
My hubby just bought a new toy and I am trying on the downlow to find a repair manual for it. Does anyone know where one might be found?
Thank you. And he is so happy to have this truck.
Hey everyone!
I had an unfortunate accident in my 1997 Ford F-250 with a 7.3-liter diesel engine.
Insurance has declared it a total loss. I had full coverage on it. They assessed its value at $9,000 before the accident, but this is a very clean and relatively low-mileage truck! The market value for similar trucks I've been researching is between $20,000 and $30,000. It's impossible for me to replace my truck with just $9,000. Does anyone have any recommendations for this situation? I didn't imagine insurance would give me anywhere near what my truck's value was but I didn't expect it to be this low.
This truck has been my baby and reliable daily for meany years and is essential for my work with rescue and Mustang horses!
Thank you all in advance for the help!!!
Can anyone tell me what this humming sound can be? Is just started doing it a couple of days ago
Hi I recently picked up a 03 4x4 6.0 with a little over 313k on the clock from an older gentleman in Utah. The motor was rebuilt about 65k ago (larger turbo, upgraded internals, tuned and deleted, I know who did the work). I paid 5k for it. XLT cloth seats, interior is pretty clean not a rip in the seats.
The passenger rear door window doesn't work at all and I'm missing the cover and switch I would appreciate any help or advice
Hey everyone!
I had an unfortunate accident in my 1997 Ford F-250 with a 7.3-liter diesel engine.
Insurance has declared it a total loss. I had full coverage on it. They assessed its value at $9,000 before the accident, but this is a very clean and relatively low-mileage truck! The market value for similar trucks I've been researching is between $20,000 and $30,000. It's impossible for me to replace my truck with just $9,000. Does anyone have any recommendations for this situation? I didn't imagine insurance would give me anywhere near what my truck's value was but I didn't expect it to be this low.
This truck has been my baby and reliable daily for meany years and is essential for my work with rescue and Mustang horses!
Thank you all in advance for the help!!!
Looking to install my tuner in the ashtray. I’m just looking for someone to point me in the right direction to find a 3D file for it.
Thanks,
7.3 enthusiast
I put in a new alternator since the batteries were dying on me (had them checked and they were good) and was still getting 13.80 volts from the alternator. Eventually had the battery light come on so I replaced the tensioner and it didn’t help any.
TIA.
Started this in 2018 and finished the build right before the covid situation happened I finished it and it could not have been better timed. Lots of lessons learned. Regular maintenance makes for a lot of awesome family outings!
7.3 was pushing out .8 amps with key off and out and all doors closed, no aftermarket circuits and I filled every fuse and relay in the entire truck with no effect.
There is a weird clicking sound inside the dash near the vin plate, when I put my hand on the plenum vents I can feel the vibration from the click, there is also a .8 amp parasitic draw with everything off key out. Not sure if there is a correlation and it’s also seemed to have started after a storm and my windshield seals are not looking the best but also not sure if there is a correlation, does anyone know if there is a relay box or module in that area?