r/FordDiesels

Hi all, wondering if any of you could help me out. I have a 2014 F-350 6.7 Powerstroke that has intermittent starting issues. One day it will start up first couple cranks no problem, the next day it has a hard time starting and takes 3-5 seconds to start or even longer. Seemingly no pattern to it, cold, warm doesnt matter.

I had the fuel system and CP4 inspected and there was no issues with it that they could find. No codes thrown and no check engine light.

I thought it was a phantom air leak into the fuel system causing it to bleed down fuel pressure, but even if I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel lines it will still randomly have a hard time starting.

Just looking for any advice. Thinking I maybe need a new starter. Truck has 295 000km on it. Other than the random starting issue the truck runs great. Its fully deleted with a mild tow tune on it since 220 000km.

Thanks in advance for any tips or advice guys!

I'm putting together a chart that shows the payload capacity of this style truck in it's different configurations like trim and with/without camper package etc so if you'd be kind enough to post your max payload rating, overload leafs or not and trim(XL/XLT/King Ranch/Lariat)that would be most appreciated.

Thanks folks 👍

** updated list below. ***

Hello everyone. I am new to diesel as an owner, used them for years at work. It’s a 2018 f250. This is a long term project to use for a small camper when I retire. Its stock power is way more than enough so I want to make changes to improve reliability. After countless hours watching videos and reading forums, here is the list I have compiled of things to do.
Original list.

1. DCR fuel pump conversion,
2. disaster prevention kit.
3. upgrade ccv box.
4. add either FASS or air dog fuel filter kit.
5. relocate top fuel filter to bottom.
6. slowly change oil, trans and diff covers to PPE for ease of fluid changes.
7. change fuel filters and oil every 5000 miles. This will equate to about once a year.
8. use quality fuel additive.

updated list after replies

1. DCR conversion
2. upgrade ccv box
3. quality fuel additive
4. optional upgrade engine bay fuel filter housing to metal vs plastic.

I don’t have any plans for deleting, tunes, etc. I’m not familiar enough with those topics to intelligently weigh the pros and cons yet, but I really don’t need to jump in power as stock is plenty. If there are any other mods that can help with reliability and maintenance, please share them with me.

Thank you.

Hey all. I’m stumped. Here’s what I’ve got

1997 7.3L F350 CCLB SRW ZF5
320k miles

What’s been done to it:

180/30 CC injectors
Hydra Tuner with JeliBuilt tune
Turbo Rebuild with wicked wheel
S&B cold air intake
3” downpipe, 4” straight exhaust
Homemade Big 3 wiring upgrade (2/0 AWG and 4 AWG)
Aftermarket starter motor

The problem:

Truck was running fine. Shut it off. Tried restarting a few days later and have a crank but no start condition with no smoke. Leading up to this I had a light grinding sound from the starter motor. The replacement starter motor uses 2 bolts instead of 3. The top bolt worked its way loose and unseated the starter. I reseated the starter. In the process I dropped it while it was still wired up. It didn’t hit the ground, but it did pull on the wires. There was only 1 attempt to start the truck with this grinding. I inspected the starter motor prior to reinstalling it. There was no damage and no metal shavings. I believe the bolt came loose enough that the starter motor bucked out and since I didn’t keep cranking on it it wasn’t too bad. On the next attempt to start a few days later it would not start.

Troubleshooting:

I have access to a fluke 177 and launch 123i diagnostic tool.

I originally had 3 year old batteries with a good amount of corrosion on the driver side terminal. I cleaned the terminal and replaced the batteries. I had a P1280 and P0603 which were cleared and did not come back.

- checked big 3 wiring harness due to dropping the starter motor
- checked crankshaft position sensor
- checked ICP sensor
- read codes, none present
- checked all fuses
- checked oil level
- checked HPOP reservoir
- checked fuel bowl and fuel filter
- switched between fuel tanks
- ran 3/8 clear line from fuel pump intake to a Gerry can. It pulled fuel into the line. Did this to rule out blocked fuel lines
- checked resistance on IDM, all good
- validated PCM responds to tune selection change

Read data stream while cranking:

PCM codes: P1111
Module supply voltage stays above 10.875V
RPM 225
ICP just shy of 1000 PSI
IDM getting 10.92V on pin 14 while cranking
Engine oil temp 70F (matching ambient air)
Camshaft position sensor status: no error (replaced anyway, no change)
Valid accelerator position and voltage
Idle validation switch functioning
MAP sensor valid

Here’s what’s weird

Fuel pulse width: 0
Mass fuel desired: 0
Volume fuel desired: 0

I’m not sure if those are valid reading or a generic test function on the Launch Diagnostic Tool that wouldn’t work with my truck, but this leads me to believe that the PCM isn’t commanding fuel or firing the injectors. I’m unable to buzz test the injectors with the tool I have.

The only other rule out I can think of is checking fuel pressure. I’ve got a gauge buried somewhere but haven’t dug it out yet.

What does Reddit think? Am I missing something glaringly obvious? Is my PCM just shot?

I have an early 99 7.3. Doing a coolant flush and trying to figure out what’s the best coolant to put back in.

The fan shroud says the fan clutch bolt is a left hand thread but everything I find on parts sites says right hand threads fit that year and engine. I’ve been feeling crazy trying to figure out what to buy. Any help would be appreciated.

Its happened 3 times now. Was going to let my mom use the truck bc her van transmission went out. Drove it to her house, turned it off, went inside, when we came back to start it, it would turn over but not "catch". The dashboard lights came on, everything electrical seemed to work. I went to plug in the obd scanner (some fancy touch screen snap on scanner or something like that my dad bought for hundreds) and it the scanner port didn't seem to be working. Tried using a smaller, cheaper scanner, same thing. Seemed like the port was dead. I leave bc i have work in the morning. Mom starts it up in the morning and it acts like nothing is wrong so she drives it to work. It shuts off on her halfway there, approximately 7-10 miles down the road. I pick her up, take her to work, get another truck and trailer with my grandpa, go to get it. It starts up again. This is an hour later. I drive it back to the house. Shuts off on me again after about 5-7 miles. Same thing. Will crank, not start. Dashboard lights and everything works. I have researched and seen that maybe the ficm could be bad amongst a million other things. I'm hoping that someone else has had this exact same issue bc I'm getting conflicting results on Google and I don't want to tear this thing apart if its something as simple as a fuse module

Hello, I have just hit about 110,000 miles on this truck and I do not know the previous service or maintenance records on it. I was thinking it would be time for a transmission drain and fill or a flush and I wanted a second opinion on which would be best to do..

Currently, I have an auto shop charging me $375 for a drain and fill
Or $600 for a flush and fill
Also an oil & filter change for $318-350

Is this a good deal for the service which service would be the best option to choose?

Just got a 90 7.3 idi hasn't ran in years, emptied both tanks and found sludge in them. Now looking for both front and rear sending units as they were disintegrated. Any ideas where I can look for new ones? Heard they were only made from 1990-1991