r/FordDiesels

Relationships will let you down… 

But a good turbo and a solid tune?

They’ll always give you boost when you need it. 

Less drama.

More horsepower.

Always goes beyond expectations. 

2001 7.3 220k miles

KC Turbo Gen 3, Rosewood 205/80, CNC machine stage 2 HPOP, S&B, Hydra w/jellibuilt tunes, 4in straight pipe

7,800ft elevation, 7F cold start

#towpig #elkwagon

(Photo for engagement)

I have looked everywhere but can’t find a definitive answer on this for 1999.5-2001 trucks. Is the man harness connection pin layout different?

My 2000 F450 7.3 ZF6 needs the top/main engine harness replaced. The harness that runs across the top of the motor and plugs into the valve covers, ICP/IPR, etc.

I know the 2002 and 2003 manual trucks had some harness differences and extra coolant sensor stuff, but from what I can tell my 2000 is the earlier simpler setup (VOAA strategy, Federal emissions).

I found the Prosource Diesel 99.5 to 01 Federal “auto” harness and visually it matches mine exactly:
- same routing
- same UVCH connectors
- same connector count
- same plugs everywhere

Only difference I can find is the replacement harness has the EBPV flap actuator connector in the valley and mine does not.

Prosource says it won’t work because it’s for an automatic truck, but I’m struggling to see what would actually be different on the engine side.

Has anyone actually used one of these “auto” harnesses on an early manual truck?

So lesson learned, never take your idi to a mechanic shop jo matter how burnt out you are. They said they had to do a little bending to get the new hardlines to fit properly... a little bending? No way in hell the dampened clamps are ever fitting on that rats nest. Hald of them are BACKWARDS! Can't even install my banks air intake because they routed one of the lines directly over the mounting brackets. Guess I won't ever make that mistake again, stupid me.

Inherited from father in law who neglected it , only used to pull pontoon boat in the summers. Sat for 2 years until I got it. 200k..Has a few issues, will stall on me randomly and oil pressure gauge won’t read. Plan on removing the lift and new suspension, need some must do advice motor wise.

The guy i bought it from said it drove before he parked it but now that it’s running again, it does not want to drive. I don’t know exactly what is wrong with it. I’m currently 1000 km away from it and will be in until July. I’m hoping to have someone look at it once it is transported to my property, but I want to know what could possibly be wrong with it. What is most likely to go on it and there was something else in the video I watched that the seller sent to me that I am curious about it has white smoke. It was according to him about two weeks ago that he sent that video, but in the general area that he was in the temperatures haven’t been anywhere near the negatives and there was white smoke on the other hand. I have also read that it’s possibly the new injection pump and injectors that could be why there’s white smoke as it takes a while for them to wear in, but I am a little worried that I’m going to be putting more time into it than I had wanted to originally I don’t know much about them aside from that. They are fully mechanical I would appreciate any knowledge possible so I will not be able to go and look at it or even try to do anything to it until July. I’m just trying to seek information at this moment in timeso that I know what I can possibly expect.

Sorry for the multiple paragraphs and thanks for any information

Attached picture is full throttle

2006 f250, 4x4, 355k miles (ain’t even broken in yet). I’ve had quite a few of these trucks now, but this one is stumping me.

Background Info: fully bulletproofed and deleted besides for still having the cat on. Transmission was rebuilt at 190k, along with head gaskets, oil cooler, studded, stock injectors rebuild with WDI spools and 155cc nozzles.

Just picked it up from down south for cheap, knowing it had a high pressure oil leak but still ran and would start hot with starting fluid. I replaced the dummy plugs and stand pipes with oems, and the top injector seals. I also replaced the glow plug module and that removed the check engine light for that.

But it seems to drive good if not fast when on flat roads, with no load, and can get up past 100. However uphill if I’m going 60 I need to floor it to maintain 60. Likewise while pulling a small to medium size load uphill. It’s a little slower on flat while towing as well.

It has an sct tuner, I have gone between street tune and stock tune. Under full throttle, ipr hits 80 (not 85), icp is at 4k (online it says that this is adequate). But if I’m really beating on it at full throttle, sometimes the rpm’s will go from their normal 3-3500 ish to like 4-4500 ish in a little flicker of power. So I believe that’s the power that this truck is supposed to have, but it seems something is bottlenecking it.

It threw codes for P2285 P2287 when the rpm flickering happens. (ICP sensor circuit low / fault, ICP sensor intermittent / erratic)

I am somewhat stumped though, as the icp voltage does not appear to be erratic. I replaced the fuel filters, which were very very dirty, but did not notice a difference in power under load.

The only thing left in my mind is to remove the cat and see how it drives, and remove the air filter to see if it’s causing a restriction but the air filter appears pretty new (oem style).

If anyone has any theories or things to check, please let me know.

Didn’t take long. 7.3 4x4 5 speed

Hi everyone, looking to purchase an 06 6.0 F-250. Seller description is as follows.

Lots of new parts.
The truck needs to be towed.
My loss your gain solid truck no rust, selling as is, 8 brand new injectors, radiator, suspension, tires, brand new bulletproof engine air/oil filtration system.
Asking price for quick sell.
After all the work done to the engine cylinder #8 shows low compression, starts on the first try but it buggs.

Drove it less than 10 miles back to home after the oil cooler and injectors get replaced.

Below are some sound checks he sent me. Any ideas on what it could be, potential easy fixes, does it sound right? Or am I better off getting a whole long block? TIA

https://imgur.com/a/62REcXK

https://imgur.com/a/D423p6B

Hey folks!

Looking for some opinions here. I posted on here a while back about getting this 7.3t up and running and now I’m trying to get it done. I started with the checklist and took a look at the fuel bowl and found this. Looks like rust and buildup in the bowl. To my knowledge, when I bought this no-crank/n-start truck back in September it had been sitting for “a while” but didn’t know exactly how long.

Given this info and pictures below, should I continue replacing parts and trying to get it running, or replace the engine with a reman?

Let me know what you think! Thanks guys!

I just picked up a set of 37x12.50x20 for my truck and threw them on to see if they would fit. Minor trimming on the front valance and a couple wacks with the hammer to clear the body to be able to run them for now. Planning on lifting it but not sure how high to go. I’m thinking of just doing a 2in level. Any thought?

Hey. Vehicle: Ford Transit Custom 2.2 TDCi, 2015.

Question: Is this engine oil color normal after driving about 7,000 km since the last oil change? I’ve been using Ford Motorcraft 5W30 from the beginning.

And if it’s not normal, what do you think could be causing it? Maybe someone has had a similar case with this engine?

Picked up this one-owner special-order orange ‘86 F-250 IDI 4x4 today. Dealer paperwork says special paint option W584 orange (bright orange) Anyone seen this before?