Does exist any hydraulic element that can behave as an hydraulic motor when actuating it with flowing fluid and as a pump for pumping the same fluid when driven by rotary movement? Is feasible such sort of dual behaviour device within hydraulics?
I was told it is a hydraulic body or something like that. Need to find a replacement.
(Specifically the box on the back that the hoses go into)
Hi everyone,
I work in an industrial belt in India and currently deal in industrial lubricants and oils as a distributor. Recently I’ve been noticing a possible gap related to hydraulic oil and lubrication oil filtration services, especially external/offline filtration.
Around me there are thousands of industries consuming large volumes of hydraulic oil, gear oil, cutting oil, etc. Many machines already have inbuilt filters, but I’m still hearing about companies doing additional external filtration or kidney-loop filtration.
I wanted to understand from people actually working in maintenance/reliability/hydraulics:
- How common is external oil filtration in real industries?
- Which industries use it the most?
- If machines already have onboard filters, why do companies still use offline filtration units?
- Do companies usually handle this internally or outsource it to vendors?
- Is contamination really such a major issue in hydraulic systems?
- Does filtration significantly extend oil life and component life in practice?
- What are the biggest challenges in this business/service?
- In your experience, do smaller and mid-sized factories ignore oil cleanliness compared to large plants?
I’m trying to understand whether this is a serious reliability/maintenance practice or more of a niche activity.
Would appreciate honest technical and business-side insights from anyone involved in hydraulics, maintenance, reliability engineering, steel/paper/plastics/forging industries, etc.
Thanks.
We’ve been seeing more cases where contamination/wear indicators show up long before failure.
Curious how many people here are doing routine fluid monitoring vs just reacting when temps/noise/performance change.
I made this motor controller with an arduino that moves the spools of the valve. When i have the engine running and i try the bucket it moves a tiny bit and the engine bogs down. I can go a little the other way and the same thing happens. Any ideas why i cant get the hydraulics to move even though the spool
Is moving?
Is it possible to move the hydraulics on this dump trailer to reach 110 degree angle?
Edit: I am willing to add different or stronger hydraulics. Sounds like making it do this will decrease strength if using existing one. Needing to put up to 250lbs at very front (closest to trailer hitch)
I’m trying to identify the valve, anyone able to assist?
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Anyone know if there are replacements for the o-rings n flat faced quick connects?
And if so, what size fits the -8 (aka 1/2") connector?
I had an o-ring get torn by the connectors getting pushed together when they weren't quite straight with each other. Hoping that I can repair the quick connect rather than throwing the whole fitting away.
Bonus points for any recommendations on change out procedure.
I've been having trouble with my forging press. I ran it with a single acting cylinder for years. It started acting up, and not retracting properly. After trying a bunch of things, I swapped out to a double acting cylinder. I just got it hooked up and it still doesn't work right. The two stage pump extends it rapidly, but it retracts very slowly (5× slower) I had the valve checked out at a local hydraulic repair place and they said it was working correctly. The 1/2" hose for retracting is brand new. Should I swap the hose ports on the cylinder to see what happens?
I have a bulk amount of old hydraulic engine oil that I got from an older relative that kept it stored away in a shed for many years. Most of it is all sealed. How long does stuff like this last if it's been sealed and what would you use it in? I have a compact tractor and some lawn mowers that I think I'll use it in. Thanks.
Removed what i thought was the gland. Was that a locknut of sorts? Or do i have to pry harder to get the seals to give
32 ton craftsman log splitter leaking fluid right here. Started leaking right splitting a very tough knot piece. Has anyone else had this happen with a log log splitter?
I’m trying connect a pressure washer to a reel and I’ve figured out the converter I’ll need is an M22 X 1.5 Male to M14 X 1.5 Female.
Is this commonly found anywhere? I’ve found some Chinese sites that custom make them but shipping time is a while.
My dad own a vertical log splitter, and when under load, the thing at the top squirt oil, I tried to fix it before, and when I opened it, there was no trace of any seal, but there was a big spring and a metal washer.
The piece has a hole on the top, but I don't know why it exists.
Any idea how to get rid of that leak ?
Looking for the best type for glands and screw on piston heads. Have one now where the piston came off the rod and there isn't any other fasteners. Most say they're good for fittings but I don't want to accidentally use the wrong type. Thanks!
I’ve had this a while and don’t have the instructions. The auto return feature is pretty slow (hardly comes back), it pushes fine and can still cut wood, just is very slow to return.
I want to check the hydraulic fluid, but not 100% sure, it’s the bolt/nut at the bottom (solo) in picture 1 and 2 correct? Anyone can help?
Hi everyone! I recently purchased a VEVOR 20-ton Single-Acting Hydraulic Cylinder and paired it with a VEVOR Electric Driven Hydraulic Pump.
After setting everything up, it works great and pushes very quickly under pressure. However, when I release the pressure to let the ram retract, it moves incredibly slowly.
Is this normal for this type of setup, or did I miss something during assembly? Could it be an issue with the return spring or the flow rate of the valve? Thanks in advance for your help
Anyone have any information on this cylinder or anyone can point me in the right direction those are the only numbers stamped on it
I'm working on fixing a hydraulically actuated sway-bar on a BMW of mine, there's a valve block that I'm replacing and several of the flare nuts are seized to the tube. A couple of the lines are NLA so I'm trying to figure out if I can find a shop to fabricate some sort of replacement. I'm assuming there's no safe way to reuse the connection to the solid line and am fine as long as I can get a 90 degree out of the block and then run hose to the next connection I can salvage.
They look exactly like a DIN/ISO "Bubble" flare used on the brakes, but with 8mm tubing. So far I've not found anything in either the Parker or Gates catalogs. Not sure if it's called something else outside of the automotive world?
I have found some inverted flare fittings. On the far end I could cut the hard lines and convert to a inverted flare, but would have to find adapters for the block end. Operating pressure is ~180 Bar and the OEM hoses are marked 300 Bar, so this is a bit higher than the brake system so am little concerned about using random adapters in this application.
Any suggestions or advise on where I might look for fittings or alternate strategies would be awesome! I'm in the US, central IL.