r/Jeep

They fixed the app and extended the check in window! Finally got it July 5th, 10:12 central time!

Went to a dealer here in Miami & got the attached quote for 2-door Sport S hard top, final offer was $40K OTD. Includes $2500 worth of aftermarket accessories

How is the offer? Should I shop around more?

Hello! So, I'd casually mentioned I was getting around ~48 MPG to someone (I never really paid much attention to this before) with my Jeep Renegade. They asked me if it was a hybrid or EV, and I was like, "no." So, I looked into the averages and this is way above.
For context: I have not reset anything since I bought it around 4 months ago. I work from home, so I use it mostly for groceries (4-ish miles once a week) on local roads, and probably 120 miles on average on the Interstate a week to go to my partner's house and back (we both live by Interstate exists), park it, and don't use it again until I drive back home.
Could this be a problem with the fuel economy monitor, or could it be accurate?

My aunts boyfriend has this jeep it’s a 1976 cj7 and he said when he fixes it he’ll want 7 or 8k for it. I think he said it’s needs a new distributor and battery then it will be good to go. Is this a good deal?

I’m having issues with water leaking down the door rail on my 2016 2 door. You can see in the pictures that water is leaking behind the door rail somewhere. I suspect from the corner of the side window. Anyone have any insight?

Happy 4th of July!

Spotted yesterday in Palmer Lake, Colorado on our way for a bit of paddle boarding.

Remember, the badge of honor app is offering a 250th badge for your jeep. However, it appears they’re having connectivity issues as it’s refusing to accept any changes or check ins.

I was able to get it to tell me it’s saved my badge and it would let me know when it got connectivity again, but I don’t trust that.

While you laugh at the cupping of my tires …… please recommend some nice quiet tires for my pavement princess. I blame my recklessness for not rotating every 10k. They’ve given me 45k so far but are disgustingly loud (M/T, Falken Wildpeak stock) and ready to explode.

Hi everyone,

I've reached the point where I need another set of experienced eyes because I'm running out of ideas.

This is a 1976 Jeep CJ5 with the AMC 232 inline-6. It has an electronic ignition with a distributor-mounted module (Motorcraft-style) and also has the external fender-mounted ignition box.

The Jeep previously ran. It wasn't perfect, but it ran. It would cold start, warm start, idle, and drive for 3 days from the new carb. I replaced the new carburetor with the correct replacement because the previous carburetor was running excessively rich (black smoke). After working through tuning and other issues, the engine eventually became a complete no-start.

Now it only cranks.

CURRENT SYMPTOM

• Engine cranks at normal speed.
• Absolutely no spark.
• No spark from the coil wire.
• No spark from any plug wire.
• Engine never attempts to fire.

WHAT I'VE TESTED

Battery

• Battery is fully charged.
• Engine cranks strongly.

Ignition Coil

Measured resistance:

Primary:
• Approximately 0.1–0.2 Ω

Secondary:
• Approximately 9.2 kΩ

• Coil positive receives approximately 10 V while cranking.

Spark

Used an inline spark tester.

Results:
• No spark directly from the coil tower.
• No spark from any plug wire.

Distributor

• Rotor rotates normally while cranking.
• Timing chain/distributor drive appears intact because the rotor turns correctly.
• Vacuum advance appears mechanically intact.

Pickup Coil

Initially I thought it was open because I had the meter on the wrong resistance range.

After retesting correctly:

• Pickup resistance measures approximately 850 Ω, which appears to be within the normal range.

However...

When measuring AC voltage while cranking I measured essentially 0 VAC, although my multimeter only has high AC ranges (200V/600V), so I'm unsure whether that measurement is meaningful. Although i may be wrong this testing

Distributor Module

• Removed the original distributor module.
• Installed a brand-new replacement module.
• No change whatsoever.
• Still absolutely no spark.

Wiring

This is where things became interesting.

Inside the distributor I found that the pickup wiring had been previously repaired.

Instead of factory wiring there were:

• Electrical tape
• Twisted wire splices
• Old cracked insulation

I removed the tape and inspected everything.

Using continuity mode I discovered:

• One pickup wire has continuity from end to end.
• The other wire only has continuity up to an old twisted splice but does NOT continue through to the connector terminal.

I repaired the damaged harness, but unfortunately there was still no spark afterward.

The wiring is routed underneath the breaker plate where it flexes with the vacuum advance.

Carburetor

• Fuel reaches the carburetor.
• During repeated cranking the base of the carburetor becomes wet with gasoline.
• I'm assuming this is because the engine never ignites the fuel due to having no spark.

Spark Plugs

• Spark plugs have been cleaned.
• Some were previously carbon fouled from the old rich-running carburetor.
• They've now also been exposed to repeated cranking without ignition.

Previous History

Interestingly, before all of this happened I discovered that two spark plug wires had been installed in the wrong firing order by a previous repair, yet somehow the engine still managed to run.

That has since been corrected.

WHAT I'M WONDERING

At this point I'm trying to determine what I've overlooked.

Could one damaged pickup lead have prevented the module from ever triggering the coil, even though the pickup measures approximately 850 Ω?

Could the external fender-mounted ignition control module be the culprit instead?

Also, does anyone recognize this distributor setup? It appears to be a Motorcraft-style electronic distributor, but it has a distributor-mounted module and an external fender ignition box, so I'm wondering if this ignition system has been modified over the years.

The only major ignition component I have not yet replaced is the external metal ignition control module on the fender.

I'm open to any diagnostic suggestions before I continue replacing parts.

Thank you all very much for taking the time to read this.

Meet Midnight 😍😍😍

As soon as I was driving her; I knew that was her name.