r/Mandalorian

I’ve been working on this kit for a while and all I need to do now is figure out how to attach my jetpack to the back plate as the magnet system I tried doesn’t work. Any advice on jetpacks would be appreciated.

Did some weathering ( not too happy with the chest)

If anybody was wondering why I don’t sell physical prints, it’s because they look like ASSSSSSS. Print lines and ugly support breaks. Anyways, here’s the Strix, an owl-inspired helmet I’ve been working on, featuring my hideously chaotic workspace.

So, over the weekend, I did my best to fabricate some PVC foam board panels for my chestplate. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to form them quite how I wanted to, and nothing ended up lining up. I am now planning to simply print my armor in ABS. That part is settled. Where I uncertain is how to properly attach the panels to my flak vest. My current thinking is, I can use heat set inserts to screw the armor to some 1/8" EPDM rubber backing, which itself will have Velcro sewn onto it, lining up with the Velcro on my vest. Is this a sane approach? Image of chestplate design attached for context.​

(Note to self: Don’t run in Velcro secured armor that was a big mistake)

Hey y’all, I’m just trying to get some insight on bringing props into theaters or does it really depend on what theatre I go to that will allow props or won’t allow props inside the building.

I’m going as my own Mandalorian and I was gonna bring my dark saber and my death watch blaster. Only problem is I’m not sure if bringing the death watch blaster is going to cause any trouble, or if I’m gonna get stopped or won’t be allowed in the building or if it’s gonna cause any other problems that may or may not ruin someone else’s experience at the theater.

I was just gonna play it safe and bring just the dark saver but I would prefer bringing the deathwatch blaster because it really finishes my look

An update on my buy’ce. It has been fully forged and is ready to clean up. I’ll be deciding on a design soon. Any ideas you wish to put in the comments feel free, I’d love to take some inspiration. This is the way.

I’m planning on finishing the end of the strap up nicer and add a rivet to it like on the back. I don’t trust just riveting it into the armor plate because I think it would smash the plastic in the process. Any tips on what glue to use to hold it in place well? I’m thinking e6000 but I’d defer to more experienced builders. The back piece will snap in on the inside of the back plate.

The point of the straps is to hide a hole in my back plate and add some more leather detail that I think will look cool. It will also give me some piece of mind because I don’t want my back plate falling off, I’d hate to re-print, glue, sand, and paint that again.

Edit: I was feeling bold this morning and followed the advice of riveting the straps in place. I had a botched print piece I could practice on, the first two went bad, but a third try proved I could make it work if I was gentle. Drilling into my painted collar piece was very stress inducing as it was the hardest piece to print, sand, and paint, but I did it. The rivets went on well and it looks great! I’ll post some pics once I get a chance to try it on. Thanks all!

So just bought some resin printed Mando miniatures and I love the detail they have though the support removal the seller did seems a bit....rough?

Should I mention something or just let it slide since I have resin printed before and I know sometimes supports can be a bit rough to remove but some of the leftover material and scarring from the supports seems a bit much to me at least.

In preparation for the new Mandalorian and Grogu movie, I 3d printed and painted The Mandalorian

I did not design the file, you can find it here https://makerworld.com/models/1794744?appSharePlatform=copy

Base skeleton and under suit is Elegoo PETG

Beskar is Bambu Lab PLA silk

Cape is Elegoo TPU 95A

After assembling and painting the details with acrylic paint, I gave the fig a black wash(using water down black paint to add dirt and weathering details)

Then I added holes to the cape using a solder iron, then wrinkled it using a heat gun

Bandolier is a strip of magnetic tape, with a magnet on the rifle allowing it to attach to his back

Absolutely gorgeous model from TroisCentTrenteTrois over on Makerworld. Shoutout to him and all of his top tier figs

I was searching for a good blaster rifle to use and stumbled across the concept art for Boba from the canceled 1313 game and fell in love with this sniper variant of his EE-3. Only problem is the only file I can find (second picture) is scaled for figures, not for cosplay. Was hoping someone might know where I could find files for a full sized version.

What other Characters or Styles should I add?

Hello everyone - this community is in need of a few new mods, and you can use the comments on this post to let us know why you’d like to be a mod here. 

Priority is given to redditors who have past activity in this community or other communities with related topics. It’s okay if you don’t have previous mod experience and our goal, when possible, is to add a group of moderators so you can work together to build the community.

Please use at least 3 sentences to explain why you’d like to be a mod and share what moderation experience you have (if any).  

If you are interested in learning more about being a moderator on Reddit, please visit redditforcommunity.com. This guide to joining a mod team is a helpful resource. 

Comments from those making repeated asks to adopt communities or that are off topic will be removed. 

I have an Elite Force 1911 pictured above and looking to head to a Star Wars LARP event. I don't have the funds to buy a new gun, I know there are Star Wars Airsoft blasters out there, but I'm working on a budget.

I'm trying to find print files or existing kits to turn this into something that would fit Star Wars besides just gluing a bunch of greebles to it.

Hey guys sorry it’s taking so long to get the Beskad finished but I’m being meticulous about its design so that everything articulates well. I’ve decided to go with a single sheath that can simply be mirrored in your slicer to work for both a back draw and a waist draw.

Someone had requested a single-edged version so that’ll be included as well, and will have a sheath of its own.

Both versions can be cut as necessary to fit most printers. I have tested printing with vertical orientation and it seems to work pretty well. Both swords are designed with a shaft that will fit a 3/8” wood dowel to run the length of the piece for stability. Epoxy worked wonders for me for affixing the pieces.

Any more suggestions before I embark on the home stretch??