I have low water pressure at an outside spigot, while every other fixture in the house has strong pressure. The outside spigot can be traced to an old gate valve on copper pipe inside. When I close the indoor valve fully, the handle won’t turn further, but the spigot outside still gets some flow but it’s weak. When I try turning it the indoor valve counterclockwise to open it more, I feel it move and immediately see water dripping from right below the brass packing nut.
Regarding the outside spigot itself: when I open it all the way, it actually sputters and loses pressure. It runs best somewhere in the middle, between fully closed and fully open.
To make it more fun, access is tight with the valve sitting right under the bathroom, directly above the toilet and sink drain pipes, so there’s not a lot of room to work or maneuver a torch/pipe cutter in there.
I’m decently-handy but not the best with plumbing, soldering and cutting pipe. Thoughts on what to do here? Call a pro or DIY? Thanks for the help in advance.
Hello plumbing repair community! I really need help finding replacement faucet cartridges for my bathroom sink. If anyone has any suggestions or knows exactly what replacement I need. The only details I have about my sink is that it is a Foremost model, about 15 years old. I also found similar faucet cartridges on Amazon, but I am not sure if they are the right ones. Any help would be amazing!
I have a new RG250S6N Bradford White heater. I am wanting to remove the anode rod and replace it with a Corro-Tec powered anode rod because once this heater is in place, it will be very difficult to replace the anode rod. Of course the rod is integrated with the hot water water outlet nipple. The nipple is about 1-1/4" above the top of the heater and the threads are about 3/4" of that. So I have a little under 0.5" of smooth surface to grip. I have a medium sized pair of channelocks that fit, but it isn't nearly enough to remove it. I have a large pair that hits about the bottom 2 threads, and it wasn't enough either. The nipple is plastic on the inside so I can't really use an internal pipe wrench either. Assuming that I CAN get it out, I do not mind if the nipple is destroyed. But I'm hesitant to do anything that will damage the threads in case I just can't remove it and end up just having to move forward and do like most people and never replace their anode rod...at least I would get a few years out of it. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
We have a 1-inch water pipe that is 300 meters long and is closed during the winter. Every year, it gets slower and slower to start up in the spring. There is a fall of about 30 meters along the line, and we suspect it might be getting overgrown inside. The pipe is likely 40 to 50 years old. Does anyone have any tips on what we can do to clear clogs or troubleshoot this problem?
Im thinking of using some chemicals to clean it, as the pipe is too long to clean mechanically. So i guess I’m asking advice about how that could be done.
When upstairs flushes their toilet water leaks out this pipe and runs down the side of the house. It’s a cast iron original on an old Victorian house (with a 1st floor and ground floor flat).
Questions:
This is in the wall and there is a small leak in the pipe on the wall side. It's squirting toward the wall and this whole section looks a mess. The main water shutoff does not shit the water off. How can I repair this? We have well water if that makes a difference.
Can anyone tell me what this is? I’m a renter and been telling landlord for over a year that there’s a sulphur kind of smell coming from bathroom sink. I finally looked, had to remove the drawers below and found this
Had a toilet flood while I was on vacation, came back and started investigating to find that the leak had ruined the subfloor over years. I’m redoing the subfloor and toilet flange (which was rusted out) but having some trouble because I’m wanting to reuse the pipe that is there and don’t have a ton of expertise. I cut off the top part of the old flange and want to get a new one on there. What’s the easiest play here? Keep hacking at it with an oscillating tool? Heat gun? Something else?
Has anyone else run into this issue? The replacement shower cartridge doesn't fit the shower valve, even though it's supposed to be the correct replacement (new version from 2022).
Were you able to find the older version anywhere, or is there a workaround to make the new cartridge fit? I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions from anyone who's dealt with this.
My toilet has been howling at me.At least fifteen minutes after I flushed it every time. I have to flush it again for it to stop. I have a well. Why would that happen?
Hi, one of my shower faucet stems is stripped and the faucet won't turn off completely. I'm using a Dansko replacement faucet that is attached with two external screws but as the stem has no threads, the faucet can't shut off the water completely. Replacing the stem will require opening the wall which I'm not in a position to do right now. I've tried thread and tape (separately) around the stem but neither provides sufficient grip to allow the handle to turn off the water completely. Any DIY suggestions? Photos of the handle and stem are attached. Thank you!
Trying to figure out the best way to repair this.
(Solved)
The plumbing pipes under my kitchen sink offer three water outlets (one for my faucet, and the other two unused.) There are two valves also. One of the valves turns on the flow for the two unused outlets. When I recently tried to install my new washing machine in my kitchen, I was unsure what to do with the third adjacent water outlet. I got a pipe cap to close it, but there remains a leak where I screwed the cap.
Edit: I went ahead and purchased a gasket, and placed it inside the cap. It fixed the leak. Thank you all!
Just had an LG WashTower (WKE100HWA) installed by Home Depot's crew. The drain hose is zip-tied to the water line to hold it in place, and the drain hose is a bit smooshed/flattened at that spot. No hose guide was used.
Two questions:
Just want to make sure it was installed correctly. The washer I'm replacing failed and caused a crazy amount of water damage, so I'm a bit paranoid at this point.
I already know this is going to be an expensive problem to fix, but looking for ideas for when we do talk to the plumber.
This is 1960s house in southeast Texas. Bathroom is on exterior wall. Wife noticed sewer smell coming from her toilet. So I assumed it was the wax gasket. It was in bad shape so we replaced it, but the smell did not improve. Took the toilet off again today to get a better look and noticed this piece of rubber sticking into the drain pipe. From what I can tell, the drain pipe from the toilet didn’t align with the main sewer drain under the house so they used some sort of flexible rubber adapter. That has either broken down of the house as shifted/settled.
I assume the two options are to dig from the top (through foundation) or from outside under the foundation to fix this.
Curious to see what repair strategies would be recommended and potential cost.
Hey,
My bathroom sink is leaking around the rim into the cabinet underneath. Do you think applying silicone caulk along the inside seam between the sink and the countertop would fix it?
did a repair last week. new tap, some pipe work took me a few hours. charged what i thought was fair. then i sat down and added up what i actually spent on parts and fuel. plus my time. came out way over what i charged.
feel like an idiot. this keeps happening cause i never track what im spending in the moment. i just guess and hope.
i know i need a better system. just something simple that tells me if im actually making money.
anyone else do this or am i the only one who cant do basic math
I originally received a quote from a large plumbing company to replace the plumbing manifold which has 5 leaking ports. They quoted $2,515 to replace the unit and it comes with a 1-year warranty. Tried reaching out to Viega (company that bought Vanguard) to ask about replacement parts but they said the whole unit needed to be replaced. So I called (2) other companies that were smaller, family owned plumbing businesses because I wanted some more quotes. The second company didn’t come out to do the estimate but they told me to send detailed pictures and they would send a quote. He said he only does copper manifolds with ball valves and quoted me $1,450 to fully replace the unit and it comes with a 1 year warranty. The third plumbing company came out and gave me a free estimate. I asked about the copper manifold but they said they don’t do those and would replace the whole unit with a Viega plastic manifold and quoted me $1,271 with a 2-year warranty. Price difference is not an issue but my question is do you think it’s worth doing the copper manifold? Since the plumber is building the copper manifold I’m a little worried that if any issues happen past the 1 year mark, it may be more of a headache and the Viega unit comes with a 10 year warranty on top of the plumbers’ 2 year warranty. Most say the Viega manifold will last 10 to 15 years as well. Is the copper manifold overkill or is it worth doing over the Viega unit?
I’m trying to relight the pilot on my Reliance 606 gas water heater.
I turn the gas control to PILOT, press and hold the gas control knob down, and then press the red igniter button.
The red button itself makes a mechanical click, but I don’t hear the sharp snapping/clicking sound like a gas stove or grill igniter, and I don’t see any spark through the viewing window or any pilot flame.
The burner compartment is covered by a sealed metal access plate with only a small viewing window. I don’t see any way to get a long lighter to the pilot without removing that plate.
Am I missing something, or does this sound like a failed igniter or another issue? Is that inner metal burner access plate supposed to be removed for manual lighting on a Reliance 606?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
