Found a water spot on ceiling. I found the joint which looks like it’s been leaking for awhile. I have soldered an elbow copper pipe once before with no issue . The T is 1 inch reduced where leak is. Will i need to cut T out or is there a way to remove pipe from leaking end with a piece of pipe and coupler without damaging the T?
I switch from a double sink to a single sink and it does drain properly. Do I need to add an AVV here after the P trap? Would it make any difference in such a short distance?
I just noticed that this valve is leaking. The pipe is coming from the hot water tank.
Do I need to have that one section of the copper pipe replaced and put on a new valve? Why is that valve even there? Sorry, I’m a novice when it comes to plumbing.
How do I connect a new shower pan drain to a threaded 3 inch fitting that is in the floor with concrete? Can I cut off the 3 inch threaded ABS pipe, flush to the floor, and connected a 2 inch pipe? This shower requires a 2 inch wide abs pipe to be 0.5 inches above the floor to connect to the pan drain. How do I connect pipe to pipe and is there a minimum length to meet code (Ontario)? Unfortunately the threads do not align. Hope it does not require removing any concrete but will do that if necessary.
Hi Everyone,
I’m seeking advice on repairing a two-foot hairline crack without replacing the entire line, which would require opening a tiled bathroom wall and possibly other, unanticipated work.
My plumber suggests that he wire brush the crack and fill and coat it with silicone and then address the issue again if it fails in the future. I’m going with his suggestion but wonder if also adding pipe clamps just above and below the crack would possibly help to prevent the crack from going further. The crack starts vertically at its top and ends in a short horizontal tail at its bottom.
Also, could installing pipe clamps in intervals along the crack help prevent it from widening?
Any opinions would be appreciated. Thank you for reading this.