r/QIDI

Just wanted to post a quick update, thanks for all the tips with ASA. I printed the original design in PETG successfully but I also did some minor redesign and printed this ASA version. I have a lot of ASA on hand so that was part of why I used ASA over PETG for the second.

Well on the way to transforming my deep freeze into a chest freezer.

Hey all, I'm new. Like, this weekend new. Qidi Q2 with Box and a Sunlu E2, Polar Cooler coming eventually.

I did a couple of successful prints, upgraded the door handle and made a poop chute. Turned out great. I did those using files straight from the QidiStudio hosted files. I used the sample of black Qidi PLA for the handle and Flashforge HS PETG Metallic for the chute. Made no adjustments to the print settings.

However, I downloaded a seemingly simple "low poly dragon" from Printables that I cannot get to print correctly. I'm using Flashforge PLA Silk+ Rainbow. First 4 attempts I used recommended print settings from some supposed silk master YT guy. All 4 had to be stopped a quarter of the way through because the supports or feet didn't stick to the build plate (on YT guy's recommendation I put glue stick on the plate) and they went everywhere. Fifth attempt I used Generic PLA Silk settings in QidiStudio and no glue stick. This one actually finished but it is ugly.

I've read PLA Silk is a pain.

I guess this long winded intro is leading up to the question of: How the heck do I get correct settings for a specific print/material that works with the Q2 based on the specific filament? The dragon model description states "use PLA or PETG". I figured the optimal settings would be embedded in the stl file.

I'm including a pic of the one that was completed, maybe there are clues you all can pick up.

The QIDI Plus5 makes it easy to take on bigger projects in one piece, with impressive detail.
Shout out to @nhacobenz!
Model by Yosh.
Learn more about Plus5: https://us.qidi3d.com/products/plus5

So it finally happened in its stupendous glory. Big blob of death. I am wondering if anyone has any upgrades/mods to improve the tool head while
I am in there assessing the damage? Looking for general upgrades/mods, especially ones that could lower the chances of this happening.

Any links to guides/how to stuff is greatly appreciated.

TLDR: designed and 3D printed a custom solar filter adapter for my smartphone teleconverter to shoot the eclipse

I was a bit late to the party preparing for the eclipse, so I had to improvise a quick setup to shoot it safely without dedicated camera gear.

I modeled an adapter ring to mount the film from a standard pair of certified eclipse glasses directly onto my teleconverter lens. Printed the parts in ABS, popped the cut-to-size filter inside, and mounted the assembly onto my phone setup (Oppo Find X9 Ultra with the teleconverter rig on a tripod).

The raw frames were processed and stacked using Siril, and edited in Premiere Pro for the recap.

It held up solid during the whole session and let me capture the transition clearly without burning out the sensor or frying the optics.

Drop a comment if you have any suggestions about how I could improve it !

Has anyone encountered this error on the Max4 before, and what could be causing it?

I printed these two adapters 2 months apart, and I was wondering why the top of the print is not smoother. This is facing up, but it is printed with the top surface on the print bed. The left side is smoother than the right side. You can see the filament lines on the right side. No, really big deal except for the look of the bracket. Any ideas on how to correct this? This has happened in other parts also. I used my X-Plus 3 and PLA filament.

Plus 5 👌🏻 love it

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to upgrade the part cooling fan on the Q2 toolhead (near the nozzle), but I’ve hit a wall with the standard DIY options and wanted to see if anyone knows of a seller or store offering pre-assembled, plug-and-play kits.

Here is my situation:

• Current issue: The stock toolhead part cooling fan just isn't cutting it for me, especially when filling up the build plate. If I have multiple parts on the bed, any models sitting further away from where the airflow hits suffer from a noticeable drop in print quality.
• Wiring limits: I know there are DIY replacement fans (like Bambu fan swaps or 5015 blower mods), but I really don't want to mess with soldering, re-pinning tiny connectors, or changing wiring myself.
• Material constraints: I also don't have the capability to print a replacement shroud or housing in ASA, ABS, or other high-temp filaments on my setup right now, so printing my own fan duct/shroud isn't an option.

Does anyone know of an Etsy seller, shop, or vendor selling a fully pre-wired, plug-and-play upgraded part cooling fan assembly with a pre-printed high-temp shroud/duct ready to bolt on? Or would anyone with the materials be willing to print and wire one for purchase?

Thanks in advance for any leads or recommendations!+-

* https://www.printables.com/model/1445446-qidi-q2-toolhead-cover-full-body-sets

My QIDI Plus 4 stopped because the hotend couldn’t maintain 255°C. The silicone sock split yesterday and i removed it thinking it wont matter and I didn't have a spare anyway. QIDI’s automatic recovery then resumed incorrectly and nearly caused a collision so I had to stop it which reset the build plate and printer head back to normal.

I gave the ai the original G-code, klippy.log file and a photo of the build plate. Then it found the printer’s exact final position halway through layer 11. it then created a custom recovery G-code to resume from where it had failed before.

after some chatting with the ai it removed all the gcode that my original file had before the layer it failed on but it needed to probe the bed. i noticed on the left side of my build plate there was a strip that wasn't printed on that the printer could use to probe against. So i told ai that and sent a picture of the failed print and from that it set up the probing on only the left side of the build plate.

Here is chatgpt explaining what it did:

• Avoided the normal purge, bed mesh and centre probing routines.
• Homed only X/Y.
• Probed Z in the clear strip on the left of the existing print.
• Approached the restart coordinate from safely above.
• Completed the unfinished extrusion move and continued the original G-code.
• Reduced the nozzle to 240°C, limited part cooling to 25%, and slowed the repaired section before returning to normal speed.

What was most impressive though was it realized that without the silicone sock attached the nozzle wasn't able to maintain the 255c nozzle temperature as the cooling fan was now cooling the nozzle too much so it compensated by turning the nozzle temp down to 240c and reducing the cooling fan so i could continue my print without a silicone sock while i wait for the new one to come later from amazon.

I just wanted to share this with you as I've never succeeded in continuing my failed prints like this before. Hope it helps some of you out.

With the Polar Cooler, the Plus5 actively cools the extruder with powerful airflow to reduce heat creep and help prevent clogs, even during long prints.

Learn more: https://us.qidi3d.com/products/plus5

✨ More space. More stability. More freedom to create.
Explore the upgrades of QIDI Plus5:
· More Build Volume: 320×320×300 mm
· 370℃ Nozzle & 65°C Active Chamber Heating
· True Auto-Leveling & Full Smart Detection
· Enclosed Structure with 3-Stage Air Filter
· One-Tap Printing, Ready Right Out of the Box

💬 Tell us:
How would QIDI Plus5 upgrade your 3D printing experience?

⭐Leave your answer in the comments to join our Giveaway.

🎁 Prizes:
1 × QIDI Plus5
3 × $100 coupons (valid for Plus5 only, cannot be combined with other offers)
8 × 2kg Filament

🏆 Winners will be randomly selected from Reddit and Discord, with the results announced on Aug. 21.