r/Renault

Hi, my grandfather has a TX-1400, and it has very high mileage—40,000 km. The reason I’m writing this is that my grandfather is a farmer and needs a new vehicle, but he doesn't have the money. I was thinking: couldn't Renault feature the car in a commercial and use a portion of the proceeds—specifically, the share that would go to us—to buy a new car? I certainly don't have any bad intentions; I just want my grandfather to be happy. I would be very happy if you could help. I don't know much English, so I'm writing this using a translator; I hope it hasn't made any mistakes.

hello, I am looking at a 1999 Renault Megane scenic i that has 60,000 km and is selling for $4000.

I think it’s cute and quirky and the owner said he’s only driven it to car shows in the summer. It is a an automatic transmission and a JDM import so it is RHD and it is so quirky and for 60k km or 32k miles, I think it’s an ok deal but I trust this reddit to be the experts.

Should I try to negotiate down should I pass? is this car reliable?

Hi!
I'm in the process of choosing a car for my girlfriend and one of our priorities is a good steering feedback so she can learn the way the car actually talks to her.
I've recently been to Renault dealer and test drove the Captur, which is still made with a very similar rack as Clio V since they are on the same platform. Note that Clio VI is different.

The main purpose of this visit was to judge the feedback of the steering system and chassis. To do that, I took the car on a road where I try to test all the cars, it's a very twisty road with sharp corners.

The steering felt direct and really fast, but overall completely crossed out the car from our list. The wheel offered zero texture in absolutely all possible conditions of the road. There are a few different surfaces I drive on that road and the car has never communicated any of it with me. I do think texture is important but weighting is even more so.

And this is exactly what crossed the car out. The rack actually tries to simulate weighting but does it in a way that creates a big dissonance in your brain. The weight is wrong, it changes wrongly, it isn't in any way natural. The car has good grip and I couldn't push it to understeer on this road without creating a safety hazard, but I'm absolutely sure that I would learn of the understeer from the chassis, not the steering.

The chassis was actually really fun and dynamic, even though it had a lot of body roll. I was having fun with how nippy it was. The body roll itself gave 10x more information than the steering though.

The car was well equipped and super practical, but sadly I cannot recommend Renault Clio V or Captur II to anyone who aims for a communicative car. We're going to check out Yaris and Ford Puma next. Will update about it.

For reference, these are some of the cars I've owned or driven for more than just a short calm drive:
- Citroen C-Crosser 2008
- Mazda CX-5 2013
- Alfa 159 2010 (current daily)
- Jaguar F-Pace
- Mercedes E63 AMG W213 (considered for the new daily)

Hello everyone!

I've been trying to update my 2013 Clio IV (R-Link) for what seems like an eternity, but no matter how much I try I can't figure it out... I've read somewhere that the R-Link store has been discontinued, and I haven't been able to find any mirrors of the update file.

I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction to find the latest version of the firmware.

Thanks in advance!

i have a 2011 renault megane coupe, its be great so far, but recently it has started vibrating a bit on idle and upon starting the revs go high for a second or two and drop down to normal, it also has a slight sulphur smell after about 20 mins of driving, so because of the sulphur smell, i took it in to have the cat checked out and the garage ran the computer through it and said the cat is fine, reset its 'brain' and gave me a print out. i am the kind of person who picks up on ever squeak and noise out of the norm and have an annoying need to learn what the issue is! there is no engine management light on.
the print out says it is miss-firering and the mechanic says this is probably because it may have a faulty oxygen sensor, they told me to run it for a few days and see if the brain reset makes any difference and if not, to bring it back to them. i am all for replacing the oxygen sensor, but would like to get some feedback from other mechanics, without visiting multiple garages and them seeing a woman and ££ signs on my forehead.
please and thankyou.

Hi all, anyone know how to find a replacement upper seal for the drivers door please? The one visible from outside, the rubber flap odd separating from the rest of it? Can’t seem to locate one? Any idea what Renault would charge off I have to go down that route?

Any help appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I have a Renault Zoe R110 from 2020 and I’m having an issue with the air conditioning.

The AC starts cooling normally, but after about 20 minutes the pressure drops and it stops cooling. The refrigerant was checked and refilled, but only a small amount was missing. The system was also checked for contamination and apparently there was none.

My workshop now suggests replacing the condenser. Before I approve the repair, I wanted to ask if anyone here has had a similar issue.

Could a faulty condenser cause this kind of problem, or should I also ask them to check the receiver drier, expansion valve/orifice tube, pressure sensor or compressor control?

Any experience or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I posted a few weeks back about issues with a Clio.

It appeared as though the timing chain had slipped causing a complete lack of compression on all cylinders. It died whilst not moving, so we figured it had the best chance of survival.

We hoped that it was just out of time and the valves were slightly open when they shouldn't be.

We purchased a running chain kit, but once fitted and the timing set correctly there was still no compression.

By this point we had taken a fair amount apart, so we decided to take the head off to inspect further.

Once out it was evident that the 6 inlet valves were all bent but the exhaust valves appeared ok. The valve seats looked undamaged.

We decided to replace all 12 valves, so ordered 12 valves, 12 stem seals, head gasket set, head bolts etc.

We spent far too long building the head, testing, taking apart, cleaning, putting back together, measuring tolerance changing, tweaking until it all passed a liquid test and all met spec for clearance.

Installed HG and rebuilt,

Reinstalled new timing chain, we also had to install a new lower sprocket as the old one was too worn and a new tensioner and guides. We also did the small oil pump chain too.

All back together and it worked, done a few miles today with no issues.

It took 35 days to sort but that was around other things, so adding up the hours, I reckon it took 7 days of actual time. Learned a lot though.

Some interesting things...

The HG in the car was dated 2016 but the car was a 2014, so this had already had some kind of failure previously.

The chain was stretched but not as much as ones people showed on videos. The bottom sprocket was really worn, so I presume that was the main cause of the issue. One guide was partially broken but still fully functional. The tensioner was suspect, it wasn't smooth and would sometimes stick.

Changing the bottom sprocket isn't as easy as it looks, we had to take the sump off and drop the oil pump to allow the chain to come off, not a massive job but not that easy when you have the engine supported on the sump and no upper engine mount in place.

Hopefully will give a new lease of life to what would otherwise have been scrap.

My order hasn’t arrived yet as there have been delays. I went for the Roland Garros primarily because I didn’t want yellow seats.

Seeing the reviews on the Cupra Raval im starting to regret getting the Renault. In almost every metric, the Raval fits me more. I loved the VW GTI, and have a feeling the Raval will drive the same way.

The Cupra for me looks better both inside and outside. The battery is slightly better and the boot is bigger. I plan on doing some camping so a bigger boot is very handy.

All i have to pay is a cancellation fee (EDIT: no cancellation fee) and can order the Raval instead, which I understand is in stock so there wont be a lot of delays. Might have to wait a month more, but seeing it will be my day to day car for at least the next 3 years or so, its worth the £250 cancellation fee (Edit: no cancellation fee)

Can anyone thats driven both share some insight?

I'm going to start off by apologising because this is a very weird issue and it's very difficult to describe!

I have a 21 plate Clio 1.6 E-tech Hybrid. I've had it for a few years now, and have noticed a few times that the car seems to accelerate suddenly, despite my foot not moving on the pedal. I then have to take my foot off the accelerator to get the car back to the speed it was doing originally. It's the same feeling as switching from Brake mode to Drive mode, but much more dramatic. Like a sudden extra burst of power.

Today, it did this whilst I was slowing down to stop at a red light. The car was in Drive, and I was on the brakes. The sudden acceleration was so jarring that I had to slam my foot down to emergency stop from about 15mph.

Why is it doing this? It's had multiple services at the Renault garage and they've never flagged any issues, despite me mentioning this as a concern.

Ive only noticed it between 10 and 30mph. It seems to happen when the battery is low, and has just regenerated to over 50% - this makes me wonder if the battery is "kicking in" when it's not meant to? It can happen either when I'm on the accelerator, on the brake, or neither!