Lipstick of the day, 1950s Elizabeth Arden Fraises des Bois, or Wild Strawberry!
You don’t see any swatches of 50s Elizabeth Arden, so I intend on fulfilling that vacuum!
1930s Colgate & Co Lookout Red* *has a stiff wax-oil formula that was made to provide longevity, outlast urban pollution, the Great Depression’s aftershock, and provide a buffer between both World War 1 and the Great Depression.
We see these events in history textbooks and documentaries, when they didn’t solely exist in a vacuum.
I binged 1930s songs and gee, they were dark. I’m from Tennessee, and I didn’t know Tennessee was a synonym used so often in songs for broken down, depressed, impoverished with nowhere to turn or to take a load off.
It shows in the pigment, and care that went into the product. It was one of those things that reminds you there is still light when everything is dark, and the sun still rises no matter how hard you try to push it out.
Next is 1940s Tangee Pretty Please that’s a cushion cream with deep staining power from Tangee’s famous pH shifting formula that’s truly powerful and LONG LASTING.
It’s one of my favorite mysterious reds to wear, and gentler than Colgate & Co that’s a heavier wax to oil ratio.
The last crowd pleaser (that everyone will say is their favorite) is 1955 Revlon Fire & Ice, Living Lipstick edition.
The Living Lipstick line was discontinued due to the FTC AND the FDA stepping in between the famous 1950s Lipstick Wars with Hazel Bishop vs. Coty, Revlon, Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein & Max Factor for the “indelible” lipstick base that was notoriously drying and uncomfortable on the lips.
Hazel Bishop cracked the code by adding moisturizing agents that didn’t ruin the indelible lipstick formula that was made with bromo acids, which was THE staining agent in non-smear lipsticks.
At the end, Revlon won with a bigger budget that Hazel Bishop could not afford, as well as shutting out Hazel Bishop from TV ads and buying out prime time slots.
In reality, all of the companies lost due to filing FTC complaints against each other for consumer promises of 24 hour wear (Coty 24), never rub off, never smear and long lasting, as well as having to disclose removal methods and ingredient ratios.
The FDA stepped in because the amount of bromo acids in “indelible” lipsticks were dangerously high for consumer health, (in modern time, the FDA classified bromo acids in high concentrations as an allergen) pushing safety limits for a decade!
The amounts of bromo acids was limited in 1959-1960, with the additional disclosure of conditioning agents, like lanolin (that I love!!) and castor oil.
Can you imagine wearing the same lipstick color if it never rubbed off??
Woof! Which one is your favorite?
I plan on making my own vintage formulations, and I’m not saying it as manifestation for future reference!
Josephine Sere’s of Franklin, hmm???
The silver set is my great grandmother’s or great great grandmother’s, on my mother’s side, while the green celluloid mirror is inherited from my adopted saba, which is Hebrew for grandfather.
I’ve had dreams most recently, this week, and thoughts about cleaning the hair out of the silver brush, cleaning it, and it being revived for usage again.
Last Sunday, my grandmother would’ve been 78, and last month was a year since owning the silver set, after losing my grandmother very suddenly, and I kept a silver cloth over both items an entire year until intuition told me to uncover it and move it closer to the vanity.
I was browsing listings for a completely new vanity set to call my own, as I never planned on cleaning out the brush, since my grandmother never did, why would I?
Although 1958 is my chosen anchor year (due to the year being the golden age of Bill Ward’s Humorama pinup art, not to be Old Hollywood-esque due to the 50s being prime), and gave or took 5 years as that’s realistic to a woman’s life (1953–1962) and trends, I chose 1934-1938 as my lower range years because the green celluloid mirror was my Saba’s mother’s, and it’s dated /34 on the back.
He was born after the Great Depression, which shaped the rest of his life and at the end, he still had paper war bonds and certificates.
It’s quite bittersweet for my appearance, I would’ve never ever chose the 1930s for my makeup (and those who want me to pluck my brows to oblivion to complete the bit, no way) because it’s not the most saturated area for vintage enthusiasts, that’s the 50s to 60s, and somehow 8 years of owning that mirror, we’re full circle back to the 1930s because I trust my hairdresser so much with scissors that a flapper bob length and flat iron curls frames my face much better than length and non-brush out roller sets that aged me prematurely, while elongating the face.
I realized after trying to force and force my look and lifestyle, since I dove in headfirst when I began sharing myself on TikTok, the answer has literally been in front of my face the entire time: what I least expected or preemptively declared to myself I didn’t like, boring is best.
Reader, are you bewildered by, “boring is best?”
I learned at almost 24, your routines are not meant to have excitement and surprise as a side effect, not to say you should be miserable and unambitious, but excitement and unpredictability are not longterm goals to chase.
Discipline, stability and organization where it does not take a kick in the pants to make you move, is what’s best.
Yes, reader, my vanity items taught me this, after believing consistency was boring and chaos under pressure is how to live life.
May the answer present itself to you, whether age 0 to 99.
Alright folks - I've exhausted my Google searching to find a physical manifestation of this short-lived product launch by Warner-Lambert/Richard Hudnut in 1969-1970.
I'm researching this specific product through the ages and this incarnation of it is impossible to find. I'm also trying my gosh dang hardest to narrow down the dispensing method of this and there is NO info/intel I can find after weeks or searching. Is this an aerosol spray, measure aerosol spray or non-aerosol spray.
Any help, ideas, suggestions, inclinations, pathways, sparks-of-thought: I'm open to whatever you've got, VintageCosmetic community!
XO!
I realize, as an avid vintage lipstick wearer, I see these tubes as a daily occurrence picking 1 or 2 from my vanity trunk and beginning my day like, “I want to wear a statement theatrical red, I’ll wear 1930s Colgate & Co Lookout Red,” or, “I’m feeling relaxed, l’ll grab 1955 Revlon Queen of Diamonds I have to wait 20 minutes to set.”
This is very unusual in hindsight due to the reactions I get, wearing archival, classic, 3-4 generations removed lipsticks, and it’s time to get into the tubes as wearing and owning them is as natural as a fish swimming.
Also, I didn’t realize vintage makeup archivists, enthusiasts and makeup artists watched this subreddit (which should not be shocking, but meeting regular commenters, I was surprised), so I’d like to supply the curious, appalled and weary with what they need.
What would you like to know?
Are they all brass? How heavy are they??
Do they smell funny (reader, I do not plug my nose when holding or wearing my lipsticks) since some tubes have been through more than others.
What’s your oldest tube? What’s your newest?
Ask me what you like, but be respectful. I can handle Socratic discussions, but not rudeness.
I’ve found some from the 1910s, but the compacts are closed, so I can’t see whether they contain loose or pressed powder, or whether they have a mirror.
I also can’t find any solid evidence that compact powders existed in the 1900s. I’m specifically looking for advertisements or other reliable evidence from 1900–1909 showing an actual powder compact.
Any help finding examples or sources would be greatly appreciated!
I picked up this lovely vintage powder compact for $10 at an antique store today. It has a a lovely dual-sided mother-of-pearl design, and all the clasps work nicely. I'm not bothered by the discoloration on the interior, but I'm curious about what the green might be. It seems to be like a hard green plastic or resin, which is indented in the shape of the metal. Does anybody have an idea as to what it could be?
I included a picture of the powder interior for fun, there's even a bit left! I look forward to repurposing this, flaws and all. I *think* it's from the brand Volupté, based on some light research, but the puff is missing and there's no brand stamp.
TIA for any insights offered about the green stuff!
The lipstick of the day is 1961 Revlon Louis XIV Red, Lanolite-B Version!
I’m posing with my 1940s Richard Hudnut compact, with tube DuBarry “Carmeen” inside.
My makeup is inspired by 1930s makeup, (despite 1958 being the anchor year) because my soft yet bone structure angularity leans too agressive in 1950s archetypal makeup.
I am working on a “Finding Your Signature Vintage Face” post, with “signature” used loosely because we’re evolving daily.
It’s perfectly ok if your face does not fit your favorite era archetype. We’ll discuss this further. Thank you.
I have to admit, my rouges exist as display only because I am not bold enough to dot them on my face, but I have swatched the middle shade before, Tangee on the back of my hand.
I would like to swatch both the first one, KissProof USA and third, Richard Hudnut because the texture and composition will be important for when I create my own rouges and rouge cakes.
Since my vintage lipstick wearing is chronic and commonplace, I want to answer questions and learn from you all the best I can about my rouge compacts.
What do you want to know? Ask me anything, and I’ll try my best to answer you.
It’s here!!
This is a 3ct gift set of 1946-47 Revlon Certainly Red, Dynamite and Ultraviolet.
Ultraviolet said no to being pushed up due to HEAVY HEAVY verdigris, so we’ll try again later.
I’m so glad red DOES NOT equal red in vintage lipsticks, because Certainly Red and Dynamite have completely different personalities, almost night and day, in my opinion.
Unfortunately, these won’t be swatched on the lips yet because I can smell the corrosion of the brass, and the heavy verdigris (the green stuff)!
But yay, 2-3 less famous iconic ads to gawk at since we can see it live!
Talc isn't the enemy.
You're 90 years behind the regulation of cosmetics, V the establishment of the 1938 Food, Drug, and Cosm Act that began tightening the leash on manufacturers and mandating testing on cosmetics due to the horrors of unregulated cosmetics and illegal for consumer health.
You're afraid of asbestos, which was a contaminant in face and body powders in the early 20th century due to it occurring within the same talcum mines, being indistinguishable with the naked eye.
Talcum is sustainably mined and tested, and not vaguely representative of a century ago, or even 50.
Whenever people complain about talc and harm, it's not rooted in modern day innovation.
Yes, loose talc is an inhalation risk, but YOU'LL KNOW when it's uncomfortable and irritating.
I have a 1920s body powder that most definitely has asbestos and unrefined talc, since when I took it out of the shipping box and it crop dusted me in the face, it was hard to breathe and the fibers were microscopic, along with irritating my eyes where I had to sit outside and drink water, and wash it off in the shower.
I prefer talc in my powders because they don't reflect light like modern powders, pill easily or sweat off, and I prefer a satin to velvet matte finish, which Dollar Tree delivers without a French import markup, plain packaging, luxury marketing or an influencer co-signing.
The "problematic" ingredients in the 2nd picture are the top ingredients used in the ORIGINAL 1935 Coty Airspun, and here it is at Dollar Tree without the sentimentality and brand loyalty markup!
I used Le Mercerie PRESSED FINISHING POWDER under my liquid foundation, as well as over it and under my powder foundation to absorb light, and I still use Prolux loose powder since it blends in as long as you brush excess off, and I really buff it away then go over it with setting spray.
• Rouge on the sides of my nose from the 1930s Glamourdaze Makeup Guide, precisely 1938.
• Rouge 1-2 shades lighter than my 1955 Revlon Queen of Diamonds Living Lipstick that takes 20 minutes to set.
• Dior Forever Matte Foundation set with MUFE Matte Velvet Skin, excess brushed off.
• Pink concealer, set with Pink Ponds powder to brighten undereyes without using light reflecting powders that leave an unnatural finish.
• Light cream foundation powder + pressed powder under eyes, center of chin to brighten, under liquid foundation, powder foundation, and over powder foundation.
• Ponds Pinkish Glow Translucent Facial Powder pressed in all over, sheered on back of hand and applied from suede makeup triangle puff.
• Morphe Priming Cream Eyeshadow set across eyelids, powdered with light color pressed powder, excess brushed off.
• Dark pomade for instant coverage of sparse eyebrows.
• Contour and bronzer to enhance nose and cheekbones as matte, light absorbing foundations flatten features.
• Powder eyeshadow, gel pot liner and gel liner used to animate and shape eyes.
She saw daylight!!!
Revlon Raspberry Icing survived 9 hours yesterday through eating, drinking and.. my stomach disagreeing with me upwards.
I knew I should’ve took the lipstick tube with me to my nail appointment since it’s 2 colors and cooler toned than I thought.
I’m glad it’s not perfectly complementary with my nails though, and impressed with the Lustrous formula surviving the day.
Talc-based powders are used in film and bridal photography due to the lack of flashback and melting under studio lights.
The powders I used to create a velvet veil are $1.25 each!
I used Prolux Matte Setting Powder in Porcelain to set my liquid concealers, and BRUSH IT AWAY!
I don't have flashback issues, even under and over my 2 layers of powder foundation, and Kokie Flawless Seal Translucent Setting Powder as my final layer of loose powder.
It's more light reflecting than I'd like for a vintage set face despite talc being the first ingredient (that's the gold glow you see), but more beginner friendly than Prolux.
I heard they removed talc from the Prolux setting pov but come on, $1.25 for film quality powder??
No, it’s not makeup experience level.
No, it’s not using too much or too little makeup.
And no, it’s not due to your face/eye/lip shape.
Let’s evaluate through a modern lens.
When we see vintage makeup in movie stills and posters, you think, “oh gosh, their makeup is probably so thick and covered with asbestos powder, under hot studio lights, there’s no way they can emote,” or, “they had millions of dollars invested by a studio to make them godlike, it’s not done that way now,”
The biggest factor (not including user error) is relying on modern formulations that are fundamentally too light-reflective, and taking structural cues from trend-hopping creators who treat historical glamour as a fleeting costume.
Let us be exceptionally clear, darling: you cannot build an authentic mid-century masterpiece on a foundation of modern luminosity.
When you pair a sheer, light-bouncing base with the heavy, architectural color cosmetics of the past, the visual disconnect is immediate. You forfeit the velvet canvas entirely.
Worse still is the reliance on the modern internet’s feedback loop. If your primary references are Pinterest boards and contemporary influencers doing a 'vintage aesthetic' for twenty seconds of algorithmic fame, you are studying a diluted copy of a copy.
Even worse, there are AI hallucinations of vintage beauty looks no mortal will achieve.
It is time to close the application and open a legitimate, archival beauty manual.
This brings us to the most fatal error of all: the modern insistence on a 'copy-paste' vintage template.
True glamour is not a one-size-fits-all filter.
There is a profound lack of harmony when one attempts to force the exact geometry of a specific decade onto a face that requires a completely different structural approach.
Refusing to step out of a chosen era when it fundamentally clashes with your bone structure is precisely why so many well-intentioned individuals end up looking less like a silver-screen siren and more like a stiff, painted-on animatronic.
I would know, 1950s makeup features make my own face harsh, while 1930s feminizes and softens.
Authentic vintage makeup demands the discipline to honor the era, but the intelligence to adapt its geometry to your own features.
Historical glamour was never an effortless, skin-like illusion.
You were purposely made up, with an engineered flawless complexion.
It was a constructed, architectural mask designed to absorb light and project absolute perfection under studio lights.
This standard wasn’t just maintained by Hollywood studios who invested millions to make an average woman Aphrodite, but by the factory worker at 5:08am, the empty nester who learned it from her mother and shop girl 2.5 hours before the shift began.
Unfortunately, my late grandmother did not wear facial makeup, nor did her mother, or else I’d be able to provide an accurate description for women of color.
To escape the modern "animatronic" trap, you must abandon light-reflective serums and modern dewy finishes & lock it in with powder. This is not optional.
The Modern Anchor: Begin with a high-performance liquid foundation (such as Dior Forever Matte) to provide a smooth, flexible base that moves with the skin without cracking.
The Structural Overlay: Layer a powder foundation directly over the liquid. Do not be shy when patting it in. This bridges the gap between modern wearability and the heavy density required for historical accuracy.
Brush off excess with a dense, fluffy powder brush.
The Absolute Sealant: Press, do not dust, a heavy, loose talc-based powder over the face. This chemical lock eliminates modern shine and cures the layers into a static, velvet finish.
Talc-free formulas sit unnaturally, and sweat easily, betraying your velvet complexion.
The Architectural Line: Carve out your geometry with a sharp gel pot or kohl pencil. Precision is mandatory—there is no room for modern, blurred blending.
I use MAC Fluidline Gel Pot in Blacktrack, and MAC Kohl Liner in Feline for an ultra black, animated eye.
The Focal Point: Finish with a dense, highly saturated, opaque lip color with crisp, razor-sharp edges to anchor the entire visage.
You do not need to use vintage lipsticks, as that’s the risk I take with my collection, but you do need a proper satin lipstick bullet that absorbs light, as matte liquid lipsticks are flat, a 1990s invention and a shortcut, and overly glossy lipsticks reflect too much light.
I do enjoy Hazel Bishop lipsticks, but once you put it on, only time will take it off!
Hazel Bishop lipsticks, if made today, would be marketed as a semi-permanent lipstick due to heavy staining activity from bromo acids.
We need formulas that stain heavily without bleeding or migrating on the market today, instead of voting for low quality filler garbage with our wallets.
OMG!!
The Revlon Non-smear Type, lanolin version deep red lipstick I had all along is NOT Fire and Ice!!
The verified Revlon Fire and Ice says, “we summered off the Amalfi Coast” while the unknown says, “You wintered in Vail?? We went to Courchevel. Tough year?”
I have a gift set with Revlon Certainly Red, Dynamite and Ultraviolet on the way 😈 so we’ll be able to narrow it down better!
This is why I make my content, because an ad will show you so much but tell you very little.
Let’s keep going on the crusade, shall we??
Before you buy hard copies of vintage makeup guides, I accumulated these ebooks over a course of 5 years before I knew it was the image I wanted.
I bought 90% of these books in a bundle from Glamourdaze, noticing years later that the exact guides they’re scanned from, you’d be paying $20-35 each for mass market copies online, especially the Westmore books!
The Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual is more of a technical guide, since most makeup I’ve practiced was from Pinterest and Instagram.
I learned most makeup I tried, from the 2010s baddie makeup look, battle of the highlighters 2015-17 to the 1950s archetype, was too harsh for my facial features, blush too high emphasizing what’s naturally there, liner too sharp and curvy, and I hated how lipsticks looked on me too.
I noticed, now practicing vintage makeup daily at 23.89 years old, that features are nipped tucked, to create more gaunt angular looks that pull from all directions. It’s not a bad thing, with innovation to inclusivity of course, but stagnates creativity for individualizing your face, (that’s not using bold eyeshadow colors over neutral!)
It took a year to get my base makeup down as serious financial difficulties (car broke down after 7 years, no car note until then) dropped my discretionary income from being able to afford the biweekly Chanel Beauty visit with Ruinart champagne that tasted like fermented apple juice, Ulta/eBay to Miss A.
I realized Miss A had the raw ingredients that, no matter the price point or marketing, one’s Miss A makeup looked better than a Sephora look, which trickled down to technique ultimately.
Due to Miss A being so affordable, I was able to experiment with all of these powders to sculpt my look and tweak it.
I realized I’m talking about my personal philosophy behind my makeup and may save it for another post!
The Society of the Spectacle is on a similar level to Robert Greene’s books, except the statements are ambiguous, circulating through your head over time. Maybe, the statements will click a few months from now, and that’s the beauty over philosophy!
Do you have these books already?
How do they inspire you?
Revlon Fire & Ice “Living Lipstick” edition reminds me of fiery coral toeing the line of red, not even red specifically. It’s closer to orange-pink than my Non-Smear Type Lanolite version I’m going to compare it to.
I paid under $20 for this on eBay, unused!!
I may try this one today, but when I held the tube upside down, the bullet COMPLETELY disconnected so I pushed it down as hard as I can 🥲
Oh, I made my YouTube channel, and a new blog post today about a Dollar Tree product that has similar ingredient composition to 1940s vanishing creams!
I’m trying not to be a shaken snowglobe and figure what to post between platforms.