r/VolvoRWD

I found this Canadian (Southern Ontario) 1979 242GT about 30 minutes from me. The owner had it in a barn where a few racoons and maybe a skunk called it home for a number of years. So the interior was pretty dirty, but not destroyed. Unfortunately it was removed from the barn before I saw it, since someone looked at it before me.

I made a deal with the guy that also included 2 140s that I didn't want/need(my friend took them) and removed all three cars from the properties.

I'm doing a series on YouTube if you want to check it out. There aren't too many of these left in Canada, especially original Ontario cars! It will be a driver, not a full restoration, fixing holes in the body, keeping it mostly stock, rubber bushings, all new suspension/brake, its getting a modern B230FT I had rebuilt years ago, and probably megasquirt to just get it going(easier than running LH 2.4 harness or something).

Part 1 - https://youtu.be/VAyGvr1qcu4

Part 2 - https://youtu.be/fcSgQXJ7VOo

My niece

Last owner gave it to me with a second radio, but the other radio smells like it's burnt out/fish lol. This radio has some gibberish on the screen, and when on it pops for a couple minutes then just hear the 12v hum or ringing whatever you wanna call it. Just wanting to see if it seems like I should pull radio, get the serial number and code first or if it's the amplifier? It is a cr-814

I've just removed an item from this part of the boot after a ~20 min drive and found the bottom of it to be rather warm. Checking the area, the spot roughly under my hand in the photo is quite warm to the touch. Not worryingly hot, but noticeably warm. Maybe 40°C or so.

Any ideas what might be causing it and whether I should actually worry/do something about it?

The car is my RHD 1996 964. Is this around the spot where the exhaust loops over the rear axle and could this be a sign of a missing heat shield?

Apologies for the picture quality usually reserved for photos of bigfoot. It's dark and I'm trying to take pictures whilst carrying things and being a hand model at the same time. Who says men can't multitask?

Hi, I’ve been running into some carburator/fuel problems. For the last month, my ‘86 740 Pierburg 2B5/7, has had a rough idle. Dropped in RPM’s, then stalled. Whenever I was driving in 4th or 5th gear and did a pull, it started stuttering as if it wasn’t getting enough air or fuel (no idea). I thought it was just a fuel issue (bcs I drove on e10 95 fuel for some time and the car had been sitting a few months before I bought it.) Changing the fuel filter, didn’t help. Usually I do everything myself, but I had no idea what the issue was.
Went to my local (classic car) mechanic, he told me that one of the compartiment in the carb wasn’t getting enough fuel, he took apart the carb, changed the gaskets etc. Turns out it didn’t help, issue remains the same.

Hi everyone! I recently bought an old car stereo for my 1993 Volvo 240 — a Volvo CR-702.

I wanted to test whether it works at home, so I spent several hours trying to find information about the wiring and what each wire is for. Unfortunately, I only found diagrams for versions that have a connector, while mine simply has wires coming directly out of the radio.

I believe these wires are original from the factory and that nobody has modified them, since the soldering looks factory-made.

Could someone please help me identify which wire goes where — speakers, antenna, and power?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Finally tearing into the engine pulled from a non-running '94 940T so I can plop it into my '91 740T. I have pretty much zero prior experience with engine building, but gotta start somewhere. Not seeking to break any records, but would like to have a bit more pep than stock without sacrificing daily drivability

Brief history of the engine from what I was told: it overheated after the last guy blew a hole in the radiator reservoir, and he tried to rebuild it without replacing the head gasket. Didn't hold compression afterwards, he got frustrated, and sold it to me

I'm pretty certain the block is going to need some love at a machine shop, especially given the notable rust in cylinder 2. Probably worth noting I had to douse the internals through the spark plug and intake manifold holes with PB Blaster to get the engine to move enough to access the bolts holding the torque converter. Is there anything that jumps out in particular I should be wary of at this stage, or should I just finish stripping the block and send it to the professionals? Is the scoring deep enough to be of concern?

I have a couple heads to choose from, one attached to a running '90 NA 740 parts car and the other to the '91T. I'm guessing the heads are all 530s and interchangeable, the one pictured from the '94 940T is a goner I'm guessing, based on the hole where the front of the camshaft sits. Would it be worthwhile to have the head ported, and/or grab an IPD Turbo cam while I'm at it? I'm in California and subject to smog testing unfortunately, so I would need to be mindful of visible upgrades that aren't easily reversible, but I don't imagine pulling the valve cover is part of the standard testing procedure

Either way, open to options and appreciate any constructive community input and advice!

Also if anyone is interested, the '94 940T shell is a rolling slicktop wagon with a clean title, would make for a good base for a drift build, feel free to hit me up if somewhat local to San Diego, I need to get rid of it sooner than later lol

Hey guys, i recently came across a deal of a lifetime (maybe). a 1987 Volvo 740 GLE Turbo. Manual transmission and its a station wagon. It had a mayor chassis work (rust work) and a turbo rebuild. the owner is selling it for 1.8 million Hungarian forints(almost 5000 Euros). I was already looking for a 850 but the 740 was my second pick if i didn't find a good 850 here in Hungary. Anyway, any tips what to look out for when buying this type of 740?

Hello y'all,

I've been trying to replace my front brake hose on my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo with no luck, it's completely stuck shut. I started out with flare nut wrenches, but unfortunately, I stripped out the nut on the brake hose. I've tried using PB Blaster, a torch, and vice grips, but nothing seems to be working. Even with the vice grips, it won't budge and just strips the brake nut more. Any advice on where to go from here?

I (22m) bought my first Volvo 3 months ago here’s how its going so far :

Bought it for 3.6k€ 311.000km automatic back in june with a good ass interior (beige velvet interior , sunroof , metallic paint and all the chromes) and an okay maintenance history (AW71 was taken care of , timing belt in 23’, brakes in 24’)

Work done on it :
Distributor cap , rotor , spark plugs , ignition wiring.
Automatic gearbox partial flush (2.5liters of fresh ATF)
Differential oil change
engine oil and oil filter change

Planning to take care of some electronic flaws (fuel gauge not working) and maybe a lil K jet tronic adjustement cause sometimes she’s coughing a bit on cold starts (2-3 seconds) but runs good right after.
Now at 314.000kms and still runs great, so far so good !

If you have advices or things i should have a look at feel free to tell me !

Have a great day yall !

1998 2.3T manual with 618k km

I need to replace my motor blower. Can’t seem to find the bolts for this guy though :(

Picked up this 1985 760 turbo the other day. Keen to get it back on the road

Im afraid the little puddle of koolaid is from my waterpump. Renew asap, replace whole pump or gasket? Temporarily seal options?

Acquired Sunday, last pic is Monday morning. Love a quick turnaround visual change 😬. This one will stick around for a while. Has been fitted with a rebuilt 93 squirter block, VX cam, and M47 swapped