r/VolvoRWD

Saw this at the gas station in Long Beach. Great looking car.

I posted a clip earlier but people said they couldn’t hear properly. Here is a more comprehensive video. If anyone has any suggestions pls let me know.

The engine is torn apart and the cylinder head has been sent off to be skimmed and get the valves redone. Recently heard back that 5 valves are bent, 4 all on cylinder 6. When we removed the head the piston and head both had an indent from a screw that the last guy dropped down, can’t believe a tiny screw caused so much pain. (Probably is why it had a misfire and why the last guy removed the head, and snapped a headbolt.) The screw came from the butterfly valve, due to the small size, clearly he found it and put it back or got a new one as both were still tight and looked fine.

In other news I managed to get a spoiler from someone, so I’m going to get that sent to get painted with the side mirrors.
Even found a nice chap who reprogrammed my alarm relay to work with the alarm horn rather than the always dead battery backed up siren. Even enabled the horn giving a small beep when I lock/unlock the car!

The door cards are all off ready to be send off with the front seats to have the leather redone. (Door cards are heavily yellowed on top and have the usual crinkle, seats just have normal wear and tare, and the cracked leather on the armrest)

We’ve yet to pull the block as my dad’s mate still has the engine hoist, the power steering rack does have a leak so that’s got to be sent off too.

But the only rust is two small spots on both front wheel wells (I assume common as it’s the exact same spot on both sides)

Towhitch has been removed, yet to pull the main bit as the bolts are under the silencer (muffler) he did bolt the rear towing eye over the towbar, which is nice. Although it’s ment to be removed if you’ve got a tow hitch.
Need to get a OEM 10pin plug for the wiring as it’s been hacked and looks like total crap, (dude cut the wires so short too, kind enough to leave just the blank male connector, which is the only one I can buy)

Slow progress mostly just due to my and my dad (Volvo expert) not having time to work on it at the same time (and his mate still having the hoist) Rain doesn’t help either, nor do the birds crapping on it only a day after I gave it a wash getting all the old crap off from when I parked her here in September. (Got more crap in 2 days after the wash then the whole time from September-April)

Btw GCP is absolutely great, managed to get a NOS blanking plate that goes on the parcel shelf where the 3rd brake light was for only £45 shipped! Nowhere else even listed it, nor anyone in Facebook groups! Seams to be pure gold, everyone seams to just keep the old light in. (Basically every 940/960 on Google with a spoiler doesn’t have the blank, guessing it was mostly only installed from factory/dealers.

i’ve had the low oil pressure light so have attempted to replace the pickup tube o rings, but once i pulled the sump cover off i found this o ring in the bottom, it’s wider than the pickup tube ones and i can’t see where it’s from

anyone able to point me in the right direction?

Hi everyone,

Recently brought home this 940, everything is working fine except this noise. Whenever I'm rolling over potholes or uneven road you can hear a loud clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Other than the sound, I don't feel anything weird in the steering wheel or anywhere else and the shock seem to be working fine. I checked several mouting points but failed to spot a loose bolt somewhere. Only thing I didn't check is the top strut bolt because I don't have the required tools to tighten it.

Any ideas ?

Thank you !

Hi, my 97' Volvo V90 has a clunking sound when coming on/off the throttle. From this video I took it seems to be a bad diferencial, any thoughts?

Just checking before I order a new diff, thanks

saw this bad boy at the ipd garage sale in Portland today...

So my car (1997 940 wagon) has been doing this thing where in the first 1-2 mins of driving, the revs don’t go back to idle rpm when put in neutral to come to a stop, only after the car has come to a complete stop do the revs drop down back to idle, until then it won’t go lower than 1000-1100rpm.
For example I’ll be coming up to a light or a junction, shift from 2nd to neutral 10 metres before I stop and the revs don’t drop below 1000-1100rpm until after I’ve actually come to a stop. Afterwards they drop back down to 800rpm.
And after 1-2 mins this stops happening completely and everything is as normal.
Any suggestions on why this might be?

So I’ve got one of the bulbs out on my instrument cluster (1997 940) and I’ve been wanting to replace the bulbs with green ones anyway. Does anyone know what type of bulb I need?
If I remember correctly, I either saw a post in this subreddit or a facebook group of someone who changed their instrument cluster bulbs to green. If someone could send me a link to the right bulbs that would be amazing.

Can’t decide which one I’m taking to IPD this weekend. lol

Det var en stor läcka i förpackningen av oljefiltret, så nu har den varit på service med ett oljebyte och oljefilterbyte, nu kommer den att inspekteras snart!💪🤩🧱