I’ve used the tool meant for removing it but it seems to keep scoring the wire on my doorbell and then in turn makes it break off when I try to wrap it. What are my options?
Attempting to wire in a horn on my race bike to get it through its MOT. I’ve tried the above setup and it’s not working! Anything obvious? Thanks in advance.
Hi thanks for taking the time to peek at my post, any help would be appreciated in figuring out where to connect the charging positive cable to the fuse or battery connection to recharge it.Here's the full user's manual the circuit diagram is on page 17, thanks again!
Hi, I have a 2007 pontiac g6 convertible and i honestly have no idea what i’m looking at or why the previous owner rigged this up like this. I was trying to figure out why my window switch wasn’t working so i looked at the wiring under the door boot and found this. The previous owner had spliced a new wire onto the existing one coming out of the door, and ran it up under the hood to the fusebox. Can anyone tell me what i’m looking at here? 😭
Can somebody tell me how to repin this?
I have a damaged one on my '94 Nissan Altima, this is the new one I'd rather not cut and splice.
For background: this is the connector that plugs into the distributor.
I know these don't go together, but I need a adapter just don't know which one
So I’ve gotten myself down a pretty deep rabbit hole and I’m committed to finishing this project. Long story short i bought a dual head Napa air compressor to fill up my tires and was trying to hard mount it in my truck bed. Some YouTubers led me down another rabbit hole leading me to adding a pressure switch and then to rip out the Chinese motherboard and replace that with a 200a relay. Now here’s the predicament I’m in where the rabbit hole takes a turn. My truck is a f150 raptor that has upfitter switches in the cab that I would like to use. Can someone take a look at this wiring diagram that I’ve drawn to see where I’m messing up? When I get everything hooked up and flip the switch there’s no action. When I bypass the relay it works with the switch off or on. Please help before I pull my hair out
Power and ground from battery is 6ga wire connected to compressor using 125a Anderson connectors.
Power coming from upfitter switch is 30a
Power from battery has a 100a fuse
Compressor is 90a
Relay 200a
Took off the light and dumbly separated the wires. How do I wire this light fixture that goes to one singular light switch and is not controlled by any others? I think it is a switch loop. Attaching a picture identifying the always hot component that is NOT controlled by the switching the light.
I'm trying to replace a dimmer switch with a smart one for my under cabinet lights. When I pull out the existing switch, it has a black and red IN side and a black and red OUT side. There is a cable connected to the IN side that goes to a plug in my laundry room. Based on the wire colors, it looks like the power goes straight to the switch and not through the transformer. I have no idea what I'm looking at or what kind of smart switch I would need to be able to replace the dimmer switch with
Wiring first panel, I'm going to secure the wires better once I start stripping them.
Advice, feedback, Tips to pass inspection?
Everything in this house is electric, has a few 240v things. Those get the black and red straight to the breaker, what happens with the neutral? That's bonded to the panel too? I saw some stuff where people were scribling sharpie on some neutrals so that's confused me a ton.
What should go where? Put larger breakers towards the bottom? Any feedback or advice is greatly appreciated. It's 200amp service. And home line panel if that helps.
Thanks,
Ryan
I'm trying to convert my old phone jack to a ethernet port but I cant figure out what wire I have. theres no writing on the cable to tell me which one I have. Could someone please tell me?
I dont have a lot of experience with circuits so please help, i have an arduino nano and i am trying to hook up a nrf24 and a reed switch to it, i looked up videos online but i am still not sure how to integrate a reed switch instead of a normal button like in the picture. if someone could just tell me how i would wire that, that would be helpfu. also, im not using a breadboard as im trying to fit this into some kind of device i am making. oh and i am trying to power it just using a 9v battery, which im not so sure i wired the connector correcty
Would any body be able to help me with this conversion?
Ceiling light pendent and trying to install a Govee ceiling light. Take it I am going to have to get some sort of connectors for the left over wires if any could explain what I need to do would be much appreciated.
These are turn signal wires on my motorcycle I bought from somebody. I don‘t know much about electrical but assumed it was a twist to undo kind of deal. I guess I must’ve gotten lucky on the first one cause the rest won’t come off the same way. Looks like there’s a metal piece in the inside squeezing it together but it felt super hard to open up with pliers. Tried looking them up and couldn’t find this exact connector online.
I have a Blink XT2 Camera and a solar panel from the Wyze Solar Cam Pan that got discontinued. Would it be possible to connect these somehow? The Blink camera has a USB A charging port, but never charges when I plug it in and I hate having to give it new batteries every two weeks, it's such a waste.
Hello, experts. I'm designing — then must build — a 24VDC power setup for for some lighted field props for a HS marching band show this fall.
(Background: I've built/powered lights on props before, constructing robust wiring setups in outdoor-rated enclosures. But those were all single-battery 12VDC-10A systems.)
One large prop uses 24VDC-50A for the lights. So I need large (car-size) batteries. There's no space for a 24V battery (plus, those cost a fortune) so dual 12V batteries makes more sense. Safety rules require AGM or LiFePO4 batteries, which is fine w/ me but not cheap.
I know how to wire two 12V batteries to get 24V, and I'll use a large outdoor-rated battery cutoff switch to power on the lighting controller.
My problem: How wire this setup to also use the 12V battery chargers they already own, in a clean and user-friendly way?
The setup shown in these diagrams, using 4 switches, should work well enough. Until someone flips the wrong switch at the wrong time. (It also looks a little clunky and overcomplicated, tbh.)
Here's the setup with the lights ON, chargers off:
DMX Lights ON; Chargers disconnected
Here it is with the lights OFF and the batteries charging:
DMX Lights OFF; Chargers connected
So ... the circuitry isn't that complicated, but 4 switches is a LOT. Seems like there should be a simpler/smarter way to do this.
My biggest concern is: this is a high school band, and the students will be responsible for using the props during the season. I'm wishing for a simpler system where it's impossible — or at least difficult — for someone to accidentally close switches 3 or 4 while the chargers are connected (and powered). Or to forget to close S3 before entering the field.
There are fuses and a circuit breaker, as you can see. But if someone blows a fuse minutes before a performance, there may not be time to open up the (hidden) weatherproof enclosure and replace it.
There are 24V battery chargers, of course. But the band is already spending many thousands on these props ... so I'd love it if there's a way to save a few hundred on new chargers (and to clean up the system before I start building it).
Any/all suggestions are welcome. Thank you in advance.
[EDIT: Fixed typo]
Hello there!
I am helping my boyfriend with a motor swap: 3.4l 5vzfe motor into a 1st gen tacoma that had the 2.7l 3rz. Its almost perfect, runs pretty good, but we can't get the wipers to work properly. Probably because we're not great at wiring.
We think the issue is the wiper motor plug wires not matching up. The plug on the wiper motor is 5 pin, and the wiring harness we used (allegedly from a 2000 3.4l tacoma) is a 6 pin plug. They line up fine and fit together, but when you turn the key to the on position, the wipers turn on without you doing anything, and won't stop. If you try any controls it blows a fuse.
We have a gaggle of toyotas, and each plug and wire colours are different on all 5 of them.
My main question is, how the heck do we figure out which wires and pins on the harness are supposed to match up with which pins on the wiper motor?? I have a Multimeter but am not super savvy with it. I also dont have access to proper wiring diagrams, especially if the harness isnt actually from a 2001 (±1 year??)
ADDITIONALLY we could use a donor wiper motor and plug that match up perfectly, and can splice that plug into the wiring harness, but would still run into the issue of matchung up the proper wires...
Thank you if you read all that. I would appreciate any advice 🤟
So my internet guy said he couldn’t install the Ethernet port connections throughout the home. But the wires are already ran, I just need to put connector ends on them and plug them into my modem.
How do I do this?
And on a scale of difficulty, is it a simple strip & crimp job? Or a solder and electrical degree job?
