Hey howdy! Figured I’d try this because I can figure out most things on my own but I definitely need some tips here. I bought this camper topper from China lol so you know I have no instructions. Anyways, there’s a third brake light and two accessory lights on the upper right and left sides (they’re amber I think so maybe blinkers). Anyways, the two lights on the sides, have a red and black wire for each, but the third brake light in the middle has a red black and a white wire. Is this maybe a backup light too? Anyways, obviously I want the brake light to work when I press the brakes only and I want the accessory lights to go with my blinkers maybe? Luckily it came with the wire extensions as shown. I have no idea what wires to tap into though to get this to work. All I know is that I’m pretty sure I’m supposed to tap into one of the rear tail lights.

I'm wanting to do something like what's in pic, have a wireless magnetic charger mounted in the air vent of my polo.

I don't want to use the cigarette lighter so can I just tap a fuse and connect it via the usb from the charger.

do I need any step down transformers etc tochange the voltage from 12v to whatever the charger will work at or not.

electricity is black magic to me just wanting some advice.

thanks

2012 polo 6r

Bought a new to me 16 WRX. Has Diode Dynamic C Lights. The driver side turn signal is buggin. Nothing wrong with the passenger side. I changed the rear turn signals to LED and the prior owner already had the smart tap relay. The DRL’s work with no issues, just the amber. Wondering what it could be.

I replaced the BCM Smart module, Model, and Gateway, but now it doesn't recognize the key and the car connects to the scanner intermittently.

Hello, I drive a 2017 Subaru Outback 3.7 L engine, it has about 108,500 miles. A couple of weeks ago while driving my whole dash just went blank, and so I took it in and learned I needed a new alternator. I got that replaced and It was working fine afterwards, however for about once a week since my engine will just randomly start revving, followed by brake light, abs light, and swerve then up, then my power steering goes out then the electrical goes out as well. Usually this will happen if it’s super hot outside, and if Im using AC. If I stop driving it for an hour or two it’ll start working again.

I have taken it back to the shop, let them keep the car and nothing happened. This same issue has happened at least once a week for the last 3 weeks, and has just been super inconvenient and annoying. As I’ve had to just drop off my car in random places, wait an hour or two, then drive back, or get a ride. Seeing if anyone has had a similar issue and how to potentially fix or to just bring back to the shop.

I’m at my wits end with this. The amount of things I’ve taken apart and getting the old pin out, only to not be able to get the new pin into the lower slider block. There just doesn’t seem to be any way I can fit it in, the metal housing prevents it. See picture, any help? I can’t get that piece to slide out any farther and I don’t want to break anything.

i have this mk4 1.8T gti project car, i have spent months tracing this issue and everytime end up with a dead lead. the issue im experiencing the most is the cab of the car always has power when the battery is connected, like im talking my cluster lit up, radio turns on, all buttons light up, other then my passenger side.

so a few weeks ago my battery suddenly went dead overnight. it jumpstarted with no problem and ran and drove perfectly, but i didnt drive around enough to charge the battery before turning my car off so it needed a jump again. unfortunately the guy who offered to help jumpstart my car hooked up the positive and negative jumper cables backwards on his battery. after that i had absolutely zero power anywhere and it hasnt started since.

i replaced the fusible link wire and the 60a fuse. now my headlights and horn work but nothing else does. my 60a fuse is receiving power, but my am2 fuse isnt. the fuse itself is good, but where it plugs into has no continuity with the 60a fuse.

also my battery is still low on power (11.9 volts) but i had it tested at autozone and they said its fine. i just didnt leave it there long enough to charge fully cause my ride wanted to leave. ive tried jumpstarting multiple times with no luck. i also tried putting a different battery in from another car and it made no difference.

what do i do at this point? (explain it to me like im 5 please this is my first time ever dealing with electrical)

for reference its a manual 1988 NA

Hi everyone, I'm in need of this type of plug. It's a 13pin connector which is found in a volvo s80 I, s60 I, v70 II and XC90 I from the early to mid 2000's.

There it's used to connect the cables of the towbar.

Kind regards!

I just picked up a 97 eclipse gs that has an added turbo. It’s currently in a crank no start situation, I found out that the wiring for the cam and crank sensor was messed up and had positive outputs in all cam and crank connector wires, so I rewired both of the sensors. Now the sensors read the cam and crank position but it won’t start. I used a multi meter and measured the power wire with first nothing plugged in and it read 8.45V, with only the cam sensor it reads 5.95, with only the crank it reads 5.45V and with both it reads 3.78V.

I’m trying to figure out it the issue in in the sensors, wiring, or the pcm not being able to supply the correct amount of power and being fed 13 V before?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

The Facebook post are from the last guy that had the car and could figure out the issue

I was wondering if anyone knew how to fix my airbag light in my 2004 VZ executive Commodore. It’s been very problematic so has the whole car because it’s a VZ. I knew I would have issues but it’s an issue that I’ve failed to solve. it first started when I put a new flasher relay in and ended up being the wrong flasher relay for my blinkers and the airbag light came on which I don’t think this is related but I thought I’d mention it. I then replaced the flasher relay for another one that was genuine and my blinker started working but I still had the airbag light on. I tried resetting it by disconnecting the battery leaving it for awhile reconnecting it. I had a look at all my connections and cleaning them. not too long ago I found the seats had been bolted on top of the wire for the seatbelts and had squished the wire so I cut the sections out because it was on both seats and then reattached the sections together of wire and soldered them heat shrinked them so they are definitely not shorting out and definitely not a problem and I’m still having the same issue but while I was having a look I noticed that the wiring harness for the pretensioners are in the same harness on the driver side electric seat from what I can see and when I try and move my seat using the electric seats which I don’t do often so I only just noticed it when I try and use it it didn’t work. It would turn on for a second well not even a second and turn off quickly so I couldn’t get it to move at all. it would just give a slight jolt and it turned off. I was wondering if anyone had any problems or know what this could be and if I had already fixed the issue would I need to still clear the airbag light or if I fix the issue would it clear by itself because I have tried using my scan tool from supercheap? It’s only a $100 Foxwell one it doesn’t come up with and faults though