r/autoelectrical

I got a cheap device, after a more expensive stopped working, this in came with different type wiring and absolutely no instructions, it has a molded fuse with the red wire, it blue in colour, no markings of what spec the fuse is. It is the connected to a glass 3A fuse I believe. I'm confused if I should take it and replace an existing fuse. I've been asking chat gpt and its got me really confused. Is it ok to replace it with the 10A tail. Chat gpt says blue fuse means 15A and I shouldn't. And also I dont think I should use the 15A fan too and definitely not the 15A ICU. Previously I just jammed a wire under the tail fuse. Can someone please help me. I'm losing my mind lol.

Tldr,

How to wire it up the device. Can I just replace an existing fuse with this one.

I'm working on this car (Wartburg 353 1976 1L), thats been sitting for about 10 years, and I almost have everything running and working, however even tho the turn signals work fine, the hazards don't. (While working on them they started working for about 3 clicks, and I didnt touch any wires for it to start and stop working.)
I would be very greatfull for any advice on what is the problem and how to fix it.
(I have measured some values on the switch and relay, if it would help.)

I recently had to, for the 3rd time, replace my blower control switch panel(part# 72311SG300). All because this rotary contact plate for the blower switch melts because of Subaru does some weird stuff with their grounding. Anyway, this time I replaced the whole temp control panel with a new contact plate and installed a new pigtail wire hair ess for this exact issue. The harness came from IWire.

now everything is done, fan speeds work fine but my key fob stopped working. I had my battery disconnected during the install. I did remove the negative for over 20mins then reconnect to see if that helps. I've tried turning the key from "lock" to "on" for a set number of times, open and close the door then doing this, and anything else I can gather online. I have no clue what's going on. it's not the batteries. both fobs have new batteries.

my only thought is maybe a pinched wire but my battery isn't draining low while the car isn't being used. then I thought maybe it's some sort of disturbance causing the alarm to trip and not allow the fob to work for protection. I did bundle all the wires with crimps by wrapping them with the cloth sleeve and duct taping it. the crimps have also been heated properly and not have over exposed wire showing.

Wondering if anyone knows a solution for this. Will not start and already checked the ground cables.

Hey everyone! I recently installed a new aftermarket head unit in my 2014 Chevy Malibu LT. Everything is installed correctly and working perfectly, except for one issue: my A/C is stuck in ECO mode.
As you can see in the photo, the A/C icon is green, indicating ECO mode. No matter how many times I press the A/C button, restart the car, or change the CANBUS settings, I cannot get it out of ECO mode.
Everything else on the head unit seems to be functioning normally. The issue only started after installing the new head unit.
Has anyone with a 2014 Malibu experienced this after installing an aftermarket head unit? Is there a specific CANBUS setting, wiring connection, or setting on the head unit that I need to change?
I’d really appreciate any help or suggestions.

This is the second DRL module I’ve replaced in the few years I’ve owned my A3 and it’s the same light each time. Is there something wrong with the light itself?
Any help is appreciated!

HELP! I'M AT MY WITS END WITH THIS ISSUE. I've had this car 6 months. Everything was perfect. Not even a scratch. I got rear-ended by a 1-ton RAM in April. It smashed the corner of the bumper on the driver's side, and pushed the rear passenger fender into the rear passenger door ever so slightly. This is where the issue started, I believe. The interior dome lamps started flashing on and off and would only momentarily stop when said door was slammed shut. Was trying to fix the issue before it got worse, but eventually the A/C, Clock, key fob, automatic headlamps, and loor locks stopped working. Fuse 23 (15amp) under the dash, blew. I replace, blows again, and again, and so on. Next, I replace it with a 20amp to see if any of it works at all, it does, but it drains the battery, almost sure is what made the alternator go out, and the fuse gets REALLY hot. Since everything works with the 20amp makes me believe the LCM Aok, but the dome lamps are still very dim with the 20amp fuse. They don't flash. I've tried unplugging the door ajar switch, I don't even know what to do at this point. I need the 15amp to work so I don't have to worry about it killing the battery, or causing more electrical issues. This is my third 01 Merc. I know the electrical issues get worse when they start, but I didn't think it would ever get this hellish. I have the cosmetic parts otw, so she'll be back to mint ASAP. How can it fix this fuse blowing, and where should I look for a bad ground or parasitic draw? I got reddit just to post this bc I have no idea where else to go. So be nice, I've never been here B4. I just want a bbg fixed 🫪

I own an 1993 Mazda Miata. Anyone have a clue as to what these do to? Everything is properly wired up front and all lights work. It’s only on the left side of the car. There’s nothing like it on the right side.

Car is a 2004 Mk5 Ford Transit

Hey everyone, hoping someone with auto electrical or aftermarket head unit experience can point me in the right direction.

I bought an Android replacement screen/head unit from AliExpress for my 2015 Mitsubishi Challenger. I’ve been trying to get it installed for a while but I can’t get the screen to turn on at all.

It came with a vehicle-specific harness and a CANBUS box. The seller is saying the cable they supplied might not be compatible with my car and suggested I take it to an auto electrician.

The part I’m confused about is that I tried to take the car’s wiring out of the equation and power the unit directly using the pinout they gave me.

I connected:

The screen still did absolutely nothing. No logo, backlight, sound or any sign that it was getting power.

I’ve also already had the seller send me a replacement screen and the second one is doing exactly the same thing, which is why I’m starting to wonder if there’s something I’m missing rather than both units being faulty.

The unit does come with a CANBUS box, so could that be the issue? Does the CANBUS box actually need to be connected for one of these units to boot, even if I’m feeding 12V directly to both B+ and ACC?

I’ll upload a video of the test as well as the pinout the seller provided.

Mainly I’m trying to work out whether my direct power test should have been enough to make the unit turn on, or whether these vehicle-specific Android units sometimes need another signal from the CANBUS box before they’ll wake up.

If anyone knows a good way to bench test one of these properly, or what voltages/signals I should check with a multimeter, I’d really appreciate the advice.

Thanks.