Hi there. I’m looking to buy this portable for $150 on marketplace but the transom looks like it need repair. Would I be an easy fix? I’m good with cars and have a bunch of tools but I don’t know anything about boats. Would you ever buy this?
These are pictures of a power catamaran transform. The boat was built in 95 and the transom was redone in 2018. Do you all think that spidering on the transom specifically the vertical spidering between the side of the boat and the transom is a sign of water damage. The transom doesn’t move, but I still think that that kind of cracking in less than 10 years of is suspect.
Alarm stops when I disconnect the 12V starter battery
Hey everyone!
First off I apologize if this is not the correct subreddit.
I could turn this into a super long sap story about the whole ordeal, but I will keep it short in order to keep y’all’s attention!
Basically, my step dad had this boat. A few years ago, he unfortunately passed and it has been sitting since. He used to take me out to the lake on it all the time, and it was honestly one of my favorite things to do with him. He passed about 5 years ago, and the boat has been sitting ever since. I’m not at the boat right now, so I can’t get any better pictures or information but I can update at a later time. I believe it’s a ford motor in it, I just do not know which one. I think he said it was maybe a 300? I genuinely can’t recall it’s been a long time. I will get a better picture of the engine and upload it.
Anyway, originally we were going to sell it, but I’ve had a change of heart and I’m gonna get it running again and keep it in the family. I am almost positive it is a ford motor, I distinctly recall the block having a ford stamp on it. Obviously, it’s a jet boat. I have a very surface level understanding of motors, I’ve done my own general repair on my cars and my step dad always let me observe and help him. I wish I spent more time learning from him!
All in all, it’s a bit overwhelming for me to jump into so I’m looking for any sort of advice anyone might have. I’m not sure if it would crank, as I said it’s been sitting for 5+ years. Anyone that can help me get started on this project, I’d greatly appreciate it as I don’t even know where to begin. Thanks in advance
So I bought a used boat from a shady kid and of course it has issues. The motor will start and idle well but once I’m in the water and try to get it past 2000RPM, it’s struggles and drops to idle (sometimes shutting off completely). If I play with the choke while accelerating, I can sometimes get it up near 3000RPM. The kid told me that the oils tank was leaking so they capped it and are premixing oil and fuel in the gas tank.
I’ve done some research and tried a few things. I rebuilt the carbs and made sure the gas tank was able to pull in air as fuel is used.
I looked at schematics and noticed that the air intake silencer is completely missing but I doubt that could cause this. Any and all suggestions are welcome!
So im having an issue where if I let go of the wheel the motors tourqe will steer my boat to the right, if I hold the wheel it does go straight so its not an issue with the annode thingy right above the prop. I did tighten the nut on the steering cable and the two nuts on the steering shaft and it helped for a bit but then it started doing it again. Are there bushings in the steering shaft I can replace? Or what would yall recommend? I did grease the entire assembly, and i just got this boat so idk if this has been an issue or not
Ok so I got this old evinrude 6 horse that came on a small boat I bought earlier this summer. The motor starts within like 3 pulls every single time - but only when COLD. After cruising around for 20-30 mins and getting it up to running temp, if you shut it down, it won't start again until you let it cool for a good 30 mins. I suspected its flooding for some reason, and my neighbor who has some (SOME - not an expert) small engine experience confirmed this. Then he brought his buddy over who is supposed to be the small engine guru from his workplace (he works for the city - guy repairs lawn mowers etc all day every day - guessing he knows his shit) and he said the same. Seems to flood for some reason. I asked him what to do about it and his answer wasn't really what I was hoping for. He basically said, it's a very old motor, you're semi lucky it runs at all, and sometimes doing a carb rebuild on a motor this old will be the end of the motor - better to just run it frequently, plan to sit for 30 mins or so after each shut down, and whatever you do avoid ethanol at all costs.
So we take it out from time to time, and it will always start right up, no issues, every god damn time...until its hot. Then you can pull that starter till the cows come home and it does jack shit. But if you can be patient (I am not a patient man) it will eventually start again once it cools, AND you leave it long enough for the fuel to evaporate out of the carb (I THINK thats why??). But sometimes you just dont have 30 mins to wait. Sometimes it's getting dark and you need to get off the water pronto because you're in a 12 ft boat with no running lights. What can I do? Is the guru correct? Just leave it and plan a 30 min turn around every time I shut it down, or can it be improved somehow?
So far the only thing Ive done to it is clean the spark plugs with a wire brush and I pulled the slow speed adjustment needle (or whatever that thing is called - it adjusts the fuel mixture supposedly) and sprayed a few healthy doses of carb cleaner through it. But if you'll just take a look the the photos you can see that the previous owner, or at least SOME previous owner really did some upkeep on this thing. All the fuel lines are new, spark plugs are newish, all the paint and exposed parts under the engine cowl look like...brand new. Any ideas are appreciated. If you need any more info on it please let me know, I could throw a bucket under her and take a video of it running if need be, whatever. Just lmk, and thanks in advance for what I'm already positive will be several brilliant ideas.
ETA: Ive just been looking around at other forums about outboards etc and someone, somewhere, mentions that their fuel line bulb doesn't seem to ever get all the way hard, and that turned out to be a problem with the carb float. I have the same symptom - bulb doesn't get hard - it does get harder than it was after a few pumps, but no amount of pumping will get it to "rock hard". What do we think? carb float?
I believe I have an old spartan trailer and am looking to replace the one roller on the back that is split, but I am not really finding any reliable information out there about what to replace it with. Its Stamped LRC 20 spartan inc, and it looks like they have a pin that holds them in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
World War 1 lifeboat, friend is doing a repair to patch the cracks and it had previously had automobile bondo used on it (thats the white). I was thinking just fiberglass but maybe something thicker?
I have a gunite swimming pool that has a fiberglass coating over the gunite. There is a crack in the fiberglass coating on one of the walls, near the waterline.
I asked the fiberglass repair person what materials he plans to use, and he said:
Polyester-based resin matting
Polyester-based gelcoat
The repair person’s main business is fixing fiberglass boats with occasional swimming pool fixes. He mentioned he has fixed fiberglass pools before and had no complaints.
The water will be lowered for the repair and the material will be allowed to cure before the pool is refilled.
My main concern is health/safety after the repair is fully cured. Since this area will normally be submerged in chlorinated pool water that people swim in, are fully cured polyester resin and polyester gelcoat considered appropriate/safe for this application?
Are there particular chemicals or ingredients I should be concerned about, or certifications/specifications I should look for?
I don’t have the exact product names yet, but I plan to photograph the containers/labels when the contractor comes to do the work.
Hey guys, ran over some fishing line so the prop was removed to make sure I had got it all out. On inspection I noticed the prop sleeve was cracked I bought the appropriate hub kit for the engine/prop.
I need help removing the plastic sleeve without a hydraulic press. I've tried using the metal insert to hit it out but no luck. The plastic seems to just squeeze down and won't budge.
I'll attach some photos if anyone has ideas how I can take it out it would be much appreciated!
So I have a 2008 seadoo gtx 215. It has the Siemens ecu in it. I had just put a new fuel pump in it and went to start it and it turned over a few times and started but was running rough. We pulled the plugs to check all three cylinders for spark and as we were testing the machine turned off. Now when I put the DESS key on it simply powers the display on that says seadoo and briefly flashes the hours but NO KEY BEEP. We have changed the main relay and have rigorously tested all fuses and grounds and power lines to no avail. No idea what else it could be. When I hook my computer up to the seadoo to read the codes etc it says no ecu. Any idea which direction I should go next in diagnosing this? Any info at all is appreciated.
Hey everyone, trying to diagnose and fix my 90 HP 2 stroke mercury outboard, when I try to start it is just making this whirring noise. Could anyone help me please? Does it have to do with the fly wheel or starter? Bad fuel pump?
When I pump the fuel ball it gets hard, the battery is charged and electronics work. I originally thought it was a battery issue because I was out on the water and had the engine off while fishing, when I went to start it back up it wouldn’t start. I thought it was because the battery was drained because I had the deck lights on the whole time I was fishing (rookie mistake) I swapped out the old battery for a fully charged one and the boat still wouldn’t start, so now I’m thinking it has to do something with the motor. Thank you in advance, this is my first boat.
Finally got the pontoon on the water, got all loaded up and started running the lake. About half hour in it started making a weird noise and lost power. Took the heads off, piston is destroyed and wrecked the head. This shrapnel is what caused the damage but can’t find anywhere it could have came from. The rings are in tact so it’s not that Reed valves are in tact.
had rusted out leaf springs on a single axle trailer for a 17’ boat. not driving over 55 or more than 15 miles.
one side seems to have fit perfectly, the other side I cannot easily get it to seat properly. i believe the issue is that the pad at bottom of axle has a hole in it for the bolt on top of leaf springs to fit into and then it will seat perfectly. But I cant get the leaf springs to shift over enough to fit. Not sure whats up. Is this ok/normal, is there any obvious/easy fix? gonna take a fresh look tomorrow and appreciate any ideas. Thanks in advance!!
first three pics are the problem side with a gap bw bottom of axle and top of leaf springs, last two pics are the good side with no gap and perfectly seated.
Is there anyone that is able to layout step by step on how I can hot wire start my 2004 johnson 150hp outboard. For now I really just want to compression test. Eventually full start and test on muffs.
I have the key and ignition switch with 6 pin male connector on that
I do not seem to have the actual kill switch control. I believe its the black yellow wire which is one of the 6 in the key ignition switch.
From there I dont really know what I am doing on the engine harness side. Not sure what needs to be connected.
Another basic question I have is what studs am I powering on the starter/solenoid? Where is the positive going and where is the negative going?
I took a gamble on a used outboard on marketplace. Even if doesnt end up paying off it will be a few hundred dollar learning project to help me in the future. I am interested in learning becoming proficient in service on these.
Ive included pictures if that helps
I’ve let my pontoon boat sit for a couple years, and I’m aiming to drain the fuel before firing the motor back up. (I failed to add stabilizer).
I’m running into the embarrassing problem of not knowing where to drain or even siphon.
The gas cap is wedged under the boat frame, and has several screws that seem like they are intentionally keeping you from unscrewing it. (There is a separate entry point on the side of the boat where I add gas, but I couldn’t get a siphon through there).
Any advice for this boating novice would be extremely welcome. Thank you!
Im kinda at a loss right now, cant figure our why the engine will not idle. It ran when I took it out this weekend, only died out one time before I did about 20ish miles WOT and other throttle positions. When I came to a stop to do some fishing it just died and would not turn over more than shown in the video. Fuel filter was replaced last year end of season and fuel is fresh as far as I know
Found this “ hole” on the side of my boat and looks like I am missing a screw on cap/ vent? Above said Waste but my toilet does not connect to the boat. Any idea where i can find the missing cap? I am located in Vancouver, BC. Thank you very much.