New to me boat. Previous owner did some strange stuff. This is the live well inlet on the transom. The guy who sold it for a relative said it was a wood plug he sealed in place. I don’t know what sealant he used. I know Debond exists for removing sealant but wasn’t sure if that will affect other sealants here creating a new issue. Any recommendations?
Had water coming into the boat, couldn’t look where exactly because I was busy driving it back to shore. I had it at full throttle and it was limping. When I put the engine bay cover back on it died almost instantly. When I got home the oil was milky on the dipstick. Any idea where I should start? Motor is OMC 3.0 1987
Never worked on the power trim before, so not sure what the exact issue is. When I trim the motor up, it seems that the hydraulic system doesn’t hold it up. It starts dropping and is back to its resting position after about 10 minutes or so. I sped the video up quite a bit so you could see exactly what is happening. How do I fix this?
Frustraited. Need to buy an impeller but can’t get a straight answer for my motor’s model number. Here’s everything I have:
1986 Bayliner Ciera 2150
Volvo penta V-8
The only info label I can find is on the transom, and it reads:
PN 867900 (painted in the first block)
8533 (stamped in the next block)
SN 710771
The engine itself has “GM 5.0 LG” and “SGI” cast into it (the internet seems to insist I got those letters in the wrong order, but I swear it’s not 5.0GL or IGS or whatever)
638 is cast near the bottom
there’s a riveted tag I can’t read but I attached a photo.
I keep hearing about these being AQ motor setups but have no idea where to find that. the Volvo Penta website is slick and flashy, but doesn’t do anything when I try to use it.
I don’t want to remove the pump to measure the impeller without knowing for sure I can locate a replacement. Help?!?!
Though I honestly love a good project, I'm not committed to it just yet and want to understand what I'm getting into:
Recently came across a Hudson Force 50 for cheap, really cheap, and I know why.
Some of the deck fiberglass is bowing while most show exposed fibers.
Much of the interior wood around the cockpit needs to be replaced, while the wood around the windows has effectively dissolved.
The anterior room has been gutted leaving the control arm for the rutter and shaft for the motor exposed.
The living space actually isn't that bad, though the plumbing has turned blue and green and is corroding.
The current owner says:
"Upgraded all of the electrical and installed a new electrical panel.
All of the decks have been sealed and there is no leaks with only the exception of the cockpit. The material to finish the cockpit is on board.
Both masts are made of wood The mizzen has been restored and is ready to be stepped The main mast still needs additional work.
The motor has not been started in 10 years."
What's your take?
Its an above water exhaust port but I don't see it on other outboard. 1999 2000 mercury efi 2 stroke. Its annoying cuz it ads extra smoke above water.
I just bought my first boat a couple weeks ago. It has a 2005 Mercury 115 4 stroke. Took it out and it ran fine. The next time I took it out it acted like the battery was dead. Single loud click, then nothing. Charged the battery, still nothing. Since then I've replaced the battery, starter solenoid/relay, and starter. Getting fast clicking and very slow starter rotation. Im getting 12.8 v to starter and relay. What sould I try next and is there something I could have done to cause this?
I recently came into a possession of a 16' 1984 Mirrocraft fishing boat. I thought getting a Mercury 50hp two stroke, minnkota 45lb power drive, Garmin Striker 5cv plus fish finder, and a trailer all for $1k was worth taking a shot. Of course I didn't expect to get away with doing nothing, but I'm up for it. As of right now I know that several pieces of the deck require replacement. I haven't decided if I'm going to rip it all up and replace all of it, but I'm leaning towards it, just reluctant dealing with rebuilding the console, cabinets, live well etc.
But, to my current plan:
Rip up whatever pieces need replacing (or, as mentioned, all of it). Clean/pressure wash hull. Check every below waterline rivet, buck them as needed, seal with 3m 5200. Lay down PVC pipe down length of keel for future wiring. 1/2" Marine grade plywood, use old deck pieces for templates, cut new plywood pieces, rout bevel edges of plywood, 3 coats of spar urethane, 150 grit sand, lay down bead of 3m 4200 on joists, pre drill and countersink holes, fasten with 1-1/4 flat head 316 stainless screws dipped in 3m 4200, two coats of Total Boat TotalTread Non-Skid Marine Deck Paint.
One question I have at the moment, should I use water or oil based spar for sealing the plywood?
Critique away, please be kind, first time doing this. Advice welcome.
Was wondering if anyone knew if something like this was possible , cutting out the hatch so there is room a head of the wheel leaving 1.5" ahead of the hatch . Basically making a walk way . 80s star craft
So a quick rundown, I did some work for a friends GMA, she offered me and old boat on the farm. I brought it home, it needs alot of work.
I’ll add pictures. But I honestly have no idea where to start and I’m kinda scared to start tearing stuff apart to rebuild it. I’d would really appreciate some input from some people with experience
So I bought my first boat it’s old and it was cheap and I’m trying to get it ready for the water but I’m having trouble with reverse latch. To my understanding the latch should only engage when the boat is in reverse with the outboard fully lowered but the components of the latch were all moving rather difficultly so after disassembling it and removing the spring(#8) in the photo I finally got the lock collar(#11) to lower as it was stuck in the up position and the rod that should be pushing it when the boat is put into reverse would just go right underneath it resulting in the reverse latch never engaging in any throttle position even with the outboard fully lowered but now the reverse latch is engaging automatically when the outboard is lowered and it releases automatically when I raise it again but my concern is if I were to hit something in the water going forward with the latch engaged it would cause catastrophic damage as the outboard would not be able to move freely.
I’ve spent a lot of my time doing research and watching videos and can’t seem to find any solutions and I don’t know where to go from here, hopefully someone here can give me some advice.
Sorry for the long post and thank you for reading
Hi all, so this happened while towing my 2021 nitro z17. I'm wondering if jb weld marine weld epoxy would be an okay temporary repair to keep the fiberglass from delamination while on plane? I'm planning on taking it to the shop for repair when I get back but we towed the boat out for the weekend and I'd hate to not be able to use it.
I was thinking I could get some rubbing alcohol, apply the putty and then smooth it out so it's flush.
Any advice would be super appreciated.
Can anyone who’s done a refit chime in with a sanity check of some ballpark costs?
I’m looking at buying a specific 36ft performance cruiser, early 2000s, 13,000 lb displacement, in the PNW. The design has several quirks that I really appreciate over other boats of similar age and style, plus I think it’s just prettier than other similar boats. The hull, deck, mast, and interior are in great shape but most everything else will need to be replaced due to age. I’m retired and I have already time budgeted spending this whole winter working on a boat if I get one.
How far off are these numbers?
Sail replacement: $9,000
Standing rigging replacement: $5,000 materials + $4,000 pro labor
Dodger canvas replacement: $5,000
Bottom paint, anodes: $1,000
Running rigging replacement: $2,500
Anchor & rode w/ snubber: $800
New water tank: $3,000
Cockpit wash pump & hose: $500
Fix Webasto cabin heater: $1,000
NMEA 2kHub, orca plotter, VHF-AIS, sensors: $3,500
Batteries, house & ignition: $1,000
Inverter/charger: $1,000
Solar panels and controller: $1,000
Transom arch with dinghy lift: $7,000
This is not the complete list of what it needs, just some of the things I’m least sure about.
My thought process is: I like this specific make/model more than any others on the market. I may be able to buy it for a low enough price that I can refit it and not have it be way above my budget. If I refit this boat (vs a different boat with more serviceable gear) I’ll have a boat with all new parts of my choosing that I’m intimately familiar with (I installed them).
I know I’ll never get this refit money back in resale, I’m buying these things for me, not the next owner. I plan to use these things until they’re done.
Had an issue with my mercury optimax 2 stroke 300 HP engine and wanted to run it by you guys before I take it to mechanic. Just recently bought a boat and The only mechanic I’ve had so far seems to have figured out I don’t know anything about boats and has been overcharging.
When I accelerate my boat with a mercury optimax 300HP two stroke initially it works fine. After a minute or so if I am going at a fast speed the RPM seems to jump and I can no longer accelerate further. At times the engine will also slow down without me moving the throttle. It didn’t used to happen when I first bought boat and it doesn’t happen all the time. I know boats don’t have gears but it feels as if it is stuck between two gears in a car and bouncing between both.
I tried adding a video to show the sound it makes and the RPM jumping but it doesn’t allow me to add videos.
The RPM jumps from 3 to 3.5 and back to 3 and will make like a pulsating noise.
This does not happen if I am going at a very slow speed <8 knots. Only when I start to pick up speed it’ll suddenly get stuck and not accelerate further. When I first bought boat there was no issue with me hitting 20+ knots and this did not happen. It started happening rarely and now it happens almost every time.
I read online it can be a gas/air filter, the engine not getting enough gas or something with an alternator.
Any guesses?
I'm looking to get into motor repairs and I'm wondering if this is a good buy for someone who is just starting out. The owner of this motor is the original owner it is a 25 HP mercury and I was thinking of buying this motor to try to repair to put on my boat. The seller said this →"PLEASE NOTE- motor has shown power loss last summer. Assume it is rings ( due to perceived compression lower and high end speed under load diminished) however not proven to be issue. At age where just buying new is easier." Is this a good buy? It's $500 OBO. I have the time on my hands. And the money so do you think it's worth it? Please leave some feedback on your opinions.
Asked the question in the video.. boat is a 1961 Boston whaler nauset with a Johnson 90 on it, 4 cylinders, 1991 2 cycle motor. One tank seems to eventually starve the motor for fuel at wide open while the other tank doesn't.... the tank that doesn't starve the motor seems to have a slower moving pickup tube where the tank that doesn't starve starve the motor seems to have a faster moving pickup tube
Edit: please watch the video if you don't mind, I think all the suggestions etc so far are covered as already tried in the video.
I have a 1978 StarCraft Tri-Hull we recently purchased. We live in Arizona and it seems the heat is taking its toll on the fiberglass along with age. I have a series of small cracks in the topcoat that I’d like to repair, as well as a bigger area of damage from a pipe protruding from the dock (about the size of a quarter). I’ve seen a lot of videos on how to repair the bigger hole, but the areas scattered with the small cracks, how do I go about repairing those? And how can I match the color of the gel coat when repainting?