I found this dead bird in my Cruze I’ve been working on for a couple weeks now, I’ve had the hood down about 4 days now and came back to this. From what I can see it looks to be a majority of the bird but I’m mainly wondering how it got there to begin with and where I should look in case there’s more there. Thank you all!
Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice on my 2013 Chevy Cruze (1.8L, LS). I’ve been having intermittent misfires and odd engine behavior. Here’s what I’ve done: I replaced the valve cover, coil packs, spark plugs, the mass air flow sensor, and I also replaced the purge EVAP valve. I swapped out the negative battery cable as well. After all this, I’m getting codes P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), C0040-06, and U0100-71 (lost communication with the ECM). Last night, it almost misfired again and was about to throw the check engine light, but it smoothed out as I kept driving. I did just swap the transmission fluid too—no idea if that’s connected.
Has anyone run into something like this or have any other ideas on what I should check next? I’d really appreciate your input—thanks so much!
So my 2011 Cruze is nearing the end. I’m looking to upgrade and get this POS off my life and I’ve been looking at a few options I would like a sub compact suv like the trax which I’ve been eyeing for awhile not just cuz of the low price which is closer to what I could afford but also sizes. So my question is what recommendations could anyone drop that they went with after the hell and chaos of a Cruze? I’m also looking at a Nissan rouge, maybe a Honda but I’m also okay with staying with a car. SUV is just what I wanna go back to
Been slowly working on the car, something about the Cruze made me fall in love
My car is making this sound and I don’t know why I really don’t know too much about cars but I check the dip stick it doesn’t have any oil on it nor is my car leaking oil I got a oil change bout 2 or 3 month ago I don’t remember my car has 188 some thousand miles on it plus last night it just popped up low oil pressure- stop engine I don’t know what to do someone please help me I don’t know the transmission type
Hi everyone. I have a 2013 Cruze that I believe is leaking oil (see attached video). I keep getting an oil pressure low warning when I’m stopped at a light and my thermostat meter is close to the middle. I can see/hear drops hitting that flat surface. Do the two correlate? Any suggestions? Thanks for looking! 😊
So I replaced all 4 of my fuel injectors and from time to time I’m getting a slight shudder at 47-57 mph while coasting. If I force it to downshift it goes away. Has anyone had this problem and knows how to fix it? I’m already fed up with this thing cause it’s only got 111k miles and it’s a 2nd gen. I’ve so far had to replace spark plugs, injectors, and the turbo wastegate. I will say when I did the injectors I didn’t disconnect the battery since it was going to be sitting a while so does it just need a tune up or a recalibration? Tia
Hey guys,
So I finally got to take care of the engine oil cooler, only to find a crack on the turbo.
I never had any codes or the engine light on, most recent issues were...
-upper radiator hose (less than 2 years old) blowing up out of nowhere /fixed
-oil leak from the timing cover/ fixed
-leak from engine oil cooler / fixed
If I have to replace the turbo, what are my best options out there? OEM? DORMAN? ZZP? SUPER CRUZE'S?
Any good quality Turbos for less than $800?
I typed it this way to avoid the autobots like a true decepticon.
I get that it can have it's issues, but so does literally any other car. I've had a 2014 1.4l since 2021. Got it with 117k for 5k, it's got about 190k now. I had to change the coolant temp sensor when I bought it, and then nothing at all until intake and valve cover last year, then plugs, coil pack, and thermostat a couple months ago. This car is incredibly easy to work on and the parts are cheap. It gets amazing gas mileage, handles really well, drives smooth, and isn't a bad looking car either, so why does it get so much hate? Most people on here say they wouldn't recommend it to anyone, but I would, it's one of the best cars I've ever had, and has lasted longer than any car I've ever had.
a girl who needs help because mechanics in the area never really know what to do with my car and I often get misdiagnosed as they’re not used to working on newer Cruzes! (example: intercooler was clogged and 3 shops tried to convince me I needed my entire turbo replaced and they hadn’t even checked the intercooler and I’m only at 100k miles!!)
my car was driving fine, post grocery store I started it and my check engine light and service stabilitrak came on- it was around 85° and very humid, normally my stabilitrak has only ever come on in extreme cold conditions.
I go get the code read- P0301 additional codes possibly not important: U0422-71 & U0401-71 both “invalid data” swapped the coils-no change still cylinder 1 misfire changed cyl 1 spark plugs starts driving fine, stabilitrak still going in and out. I planned to go get fuel injector cleaner and 91 octane gas since I’m sitting at about 1/4 a tank anyways.
about an hour later I come out and start it to go do that and my check engine light is BACK but now FLASHING and now my car is shaking! (solid light and no shaking before)
Gonna replace the rest of the sparks and I guess do a compression test but my question is: Has this happened to you and what ended up being the cause??? Compression, sensors, fuel injector, gasket, throttle??? I’ve never had a flashing check engine light before. (I’m not driving it and haven’t since the light first came on aside from getting it home and the pit stop for code read)
Hey everyone! I recently bought a 2014 Chevy Cruze, with a turbocharged 1.4L engine, and automatic transmission.
I know I probably should have asked this before buying it, but it’s already mine, and I’m hoping to learn from people who know these cars well. I’m not looking to get roasted.
I genuinely want to be proactive.
What are the common issues with this model? What typically fails, what maintenance should I do right away, and what should I keep an eye on to help it last as long as possible?
Any advice from experienced owners would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
While driving my car (2010 1.6 EcoTec 6-speed automatic), these lights suddenly came on the display and a strange sound came from the engine. I drove a little further, pulled over, and turned off the car. When I tried to start it again, it wouldn't start several times. The last time it started, even though I put the gear in D, the car wouldn't move; neither the tachometer nor the speedometer moved. This problem occurred again that same day while the car was moving; the same indicator lights came on, and the engine wouldn't start. When I connected the OBD device, no problems were detected. Has anyone experienced this? What could be the problem?
Car’s been leaking oil at a moderate rate (less than 1qt/1k mi). Was quoted 2400$ for:
Timing cover gasket
Oil pan gasket
Oil filter housing gasket
Valve cover assembly
I only went with the valve cover (not just the gasket) for now. He insisted up and down the intake manifold was fine.
Am I cooked? Are those repairs even worth it over just monitoring dipstick and replacing as needed?
I couldn’t afford all that today, but I could save up if it was sensible. But that’s almost the value of the car.
On a ‘13 1.4T.
Hi all,
I made a post a few days ago about my a/c compressor needing to be replaced. About a week before the a/c going out and blowing warm to hot air, my screen that shows my speed went out and it took two car cranks to turn back on. I know the mechanic said I need a new compressor but is there a possibility that maybe it’s just the fuse? I’m not the best with cars and I’d like to see about fixing the cheapest thing first lol.
Thank you in advance!
Code: P0011
Hey everyone, I'm completely out of ideas with a persistent P0011 code. Here is everything that’s been done so far:
Oil and oil filter: changed (5w30 ACDELCO, GM filter)
VVT Solenoids: Replaced with new ones (and interchanged them to troubleshoot. the code stayed on the intake side).
Check valve: Replaced the oil gallery non-return valve located below the alternator.
I took off the upper timing cover and discovered the goddamn previous mechanics used the wrong tools and completely butchered the bolts on both sprockets (cam phasers). That said, they aren't leaking oil and they don't wobble (at least not so I can tell)
When I clear the code, it takes about 30 minutes of driving before code pops up back again.
My next thought is checking the mechanical base timing and replacing the VVT intake sprocket entirely. I also have several videos of the car starting up if anyone needs to hear the cold or warm start audio to help diagnose.
I really want to fix it and get rid of this piece of sh*t.
Thank you all for your help in advance, truly.