Moin Leute,
seit einigen Tagen habe ich folgendes Problem. Ich kann mein Handy nicht mehr mit dem Dwarf 3 verbinden. Ich habe alles mögliche versucht, anderes Handy probiert, neu aufgeladen und eine Verbindung getestet, usw. Ebenfalls ein Ticket beim Support erstellt. Seit einer Woche keine Antwort.
Habt ihr noch Lösungsvorschläge?
I'm curious if anyone has a handle on how to best use the gain setting? I'm in a Bortle 6+ location if that matters.
I'm curious if there is a rule for exposure time vs gain for gathering images as well.
Also what are signs of too much gain? I'm guessing noise but would love to hear what others have been experiencing.
Is there a option to set the time or timezone? I couldn't find one.
I first noticed on the general photos I took of wildlife last week that the day and time was incorrect. I looked at the subs from my astro sessions and their times were off, too.
On further inspection it seems all the photos are off by 6 hours, perhaps the difference between MDT and China? Curiously enough when I looked at the Atlas this morning, the time looks correct.
If the D3 is supposed to be automatically fetching the time and date from my phone, it's doesn't appear to be doing so.
Betelgeuse taken with Dwarf 2
150 subs x 6 seconds @ 60 gain
stacked and processed in Siril and Gimp
accessories: 3d printed star spike mask
In 2 days, we’ll be going live for a real sky demo of the latest DWARF features.
Claire will set up DWARF 3 and DWARF mini and walk through several recently updated features under the real night sky. If you’ve been curious about what’s new, this is a great chance to see the features in action and ask your questions live.
Watch here:
https://youtube.com/live/yoe0P1y1ArA?feature=share
You can click the link now, subscribe to our channel, and turn on the livestream reminder so you won’t miss it when we go live.
We’ll also have prize giveaways during the livestream, so bring your questions and join us live. If the sky is clear where you are, you can even open your own DWARF and try the new features with us.
Livestream Time Tip:
If the time does not work for you because of your time zone or schedule, you are very welcome to watch the replay afterward.
Clear skies, and see you live!
Thought I would try out the new Milky Way feature on the dwarf 3, around 1200 15 second subs gain 60. NSW Australia 🇦🇺
Es maravilló poder colocar el Dwarf 3 con una pinza de anclaje en una ventana de un piso de Madrid, utilizar el modo EQ y probar a hacer el primer mosaico.
Taken with Dwarf 2 smart telescope
200 exposures x 10 seconds each @ 70 gain. Stacked in Siril, edited in Gimp.
Sooooo accidentally put mi greasy fingerprint in the lens of my dwarf mini...
🤦♂️
Is safe to wipe it with those Zeiss glass cleaning wipes?
captured with Dwarf 2 in EQ mode, 200 subs x 10 s, 60 gain, Bortle 5ish, processed in Siril and Gimp
Tried to photo C6 (cat's eye nebula) and you can see my results. Settings were duoband, 30 sec exposure, and 70 gain.
What suggestions do y'all have to try and get a better image. Thanks so much
Good morning everyone,
Last night I went to set up after the Dwarf Lab software update for the Dwarf Mini. I had perfectly clear skies, but when I would autofocus (and then subsequently, try to manual focus) nothing happened on the telephoto lens. It kept saying that the autofocus failed, and to make sure nothing (clouds or other objects) were not obstructing it. There were no clouds in the sky, I could see *a lot* of stars by eye and through the wide lens. I attempted to up the gain, and shutter speed to see if that helped, and I got the following image:
I spent all night trying to get it to work, but nothing was working. This morning, I tried messing with it some more, and I tried focusing again and doing the same thing, and I still got the weird noise. The following image is the next morning on something in my living room to see if that would help *at all*:
I then dropped the gain and shutter back down to what I would normally do, and tried to shine a light in there, to see what would come across, and the following image is what I was able to see:
It almost looks as if the actual camera is crooked or slanted, and is not actually pointing directly out of the lens. I tried googling and looking at other people who may have had a similar issue. I've tapped on the arm, to see if I could get it back in place, but nothing I tried work, and it's still just acting like it can not see anything out of the telephoto lens. Any help you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated.
And to not waste your guys' time, here is an image I capture with it over multiple nights of M51 (the Whirlpool Galaxy). Exposure: 227x60s (3h47m) at 60 gain in EQ mode (Bortle 7, northern hemisphere). I edited it myself with PixInsight and Photoshop.
Thanks again if you can provide any help, or if you just like the image I got of M51!
EDIT - Here are the images of the interior of the camera
EDIT 2 - I went out to see if I even could get an image of the sun. This is what I got. It is clearly centered in the wide lens, but nothing on the telephoto lens along with an error message saying "The Sun not detected". (Yes, the solar filter is on)
UPDATE 05/14/2026 - I was asked to roll back the software to a previous version to see if that would correct the issue, it did not. It does appear to be something wrong with the hardware itself. I will keep updating as I learn more, and hopefully figure out what the issue is.
M5 taken with Dwarf 2, 3d printed star spike mask, no filter, 256/10s/60g, processed in Siril and Gimp
Taken with my Dwarf 3 during trip to bortle 4. Managed to collect 22 minutes of 10s 100iso subs. Processed using Stellar studio
Dwarf 3, 27 hours of intergration of 15, 30 and 60 second subs gain 60 EQ mode perfect alignment. Taken from NSW Australia
Since latest update I cant achieve eq mode or search the sky with deep space search
Is there a way to do a factory reset to the telescope?
Don't know if I was brilliant or crazy, but as I plan to head to elevation and schedule observations in the chilly night time while I'm cozy in my sleeping bag, I decided to put my D3 in the fridge to cool it down so I could take some darks at lower temps before the trip. The factory darks are at 25ºC.
I was successful, however, the D3 created two, or sometimes three instead of the expected one at a specific exposure and gain. Those multiples vary by only a degree or two.
Is this expected? or needed? Should I remove some of the redundant darks to save memory? Thanks.
