r/fordexpedition

Bought a used 2023 a few months ago. When I put it in park the vehicle rocks back and forth. No other vehicle I have does that. Does anyone else’s do it?

Thoughts on 2025/2026 ford expedition platinum max deciding between one of these or a 2024-2026 suburban. I have 9 kids and 6 under 18 and a grandkid making it 7 under 18 so really need a 8 seater and not a fan of vans and need trunk room as well so going this route was looking more toward 7.3 excursions with a front bench for a 9 seater

I bought a 2026 Ford expedition max platinum with the stealth package. This comes with tires that are 285/40 R24. We love it. We do however live in New England and are getting ready winter. That means, winter tires. They don’t make 24” winter tires, so I need to drop to 22” or 20” for winters. I found a nice 20” rim and 275/60 R20 that’s a perfect 33” diameter match (and lug nut match, and brake caliper match) Michelin X-ice stud-less tire.

Because it’s not original OEM - ford service and parts won’t touch it. I need to use a town fair tire or another 3rd party tire/service center for this change. I guess it’s not the end of the world, I just have always done everything car related at the purchasing dealer…

I have a 2020 Max with 96,000 miles and it’s having problems with the cam phasers. I know it’s a known issue. Took it to the local dealership. They want 7800 bucks to fix it. I have a CNA warranty. CNA is only covering 205 bucks per hour for labor and CNA wants the dealership to take it apart and take pictures before they will approve or Deny. Dealership wants me to authorize the full amount before the work begins.

I think this very risky financially speaking. Am I wrong? Is this standard practice? I told them to take it off the rack and I will figure it out. My next call is to CNA to argue.

500 mile road trip. Wow. Love this

Just picked up a 2005 Lincoln Navigator 4x4 5.4L V8 and I actually really like the damn thing. It’s loaded as hell for a 20-year-old SUV — sunroof, rear entertainment/TV, parking sensors, 4x4, AdvanceTrac, etc. The engine and transmission seem strong and it actually has a surprising amount of power.
But I’m dealing with a pile of issues and I’m trying to figure out what I’m actually looking at before I start throwing parts at it.
The biggest issue is the brakes. When I bought it, the brakes were basically nonexistent. I flushed the entire system with fresh DOT 3 and bled all four corners. The old fluid was absolutely disgusting and visibly contaminated, and I’ve pulled a shitload of air out of the system.
The weird part is that the pedal can be rock solid with the engine off. Sitting in Park, I can stand on the pedal and it won’t go anywhere near the floor. With the engine running, it gets some booster assistance, but the weird brake problem still doesn’t consistently happen while stationary.
The problem seems to occur only when it’s in Drive/reverse/actually moving. Sometimes the pedal feels completely normal and hits a very firm stop, and other times it has excessive travel and gets dangerously soft. It’s extremely inconsistent. I cannot reproduce the same behavior reliably while sitting in Park.
I disconnected the brake booster vacuum hose as a test and the pedal became more substantial, but it was still somewhat soft and the underlying problem wasn’t eliminated. I also checked inside the booster for brake fluid and it was completely dry.
There’s some wetness around the front-left brake, although I haven’t found an obvious active leak.
The vehicle has ABS/AdvanceTrac, so I’m wondering if I’m dealing with an ABS hydraulic unit issue, wheel-speed sensor issue, pad knock-back/wheel bearing problem, trapped air in the ABS unit, or possibly a bad master cylinder.
I’m currently planning to replace the master cylinder, and completely bleed the system again. If that doesn’t fix it, I’m taking it to a shop with an ABS-capable scan tool because I’m done guessing.
Other issues:
OBD-II port isn’t communicating with my scanner at all.
A/C compressor isn’t engaging.
Check-engine light started flashing intermittently, then stopped.
I’m suspicious the catalytic converters may be partially restricted because the power sometimes feels strong and other times falls off, and the floor gets pretty hot.
I temporarily cut the muffler off so I could actually hear what the engine/exhaust is doing. It also made me considerably happier. 😂
Suspension warning keeps coming up.
Despite all this, the engine starts, runs, shifts, and drives surprisingly well.
4x4 works.
Sunroof works.
The damn TV works.
Parking sensors work.
It’s actually a really comfortable truck.
I paid $1,700 for it and I’m willing to put enough into it to get it sorted, but I’m setting myself a $3,000 absolute all-in ceiling.
So, what would you guys check first for the intermittent brake pedal that ONLY seems to happen in Drive/motion? Especially interested in anyone who’s dealt with this generation Navigator/Expedition/F-150 brake system.

Our service experience has been mixed across two dealers in the Dallas area. I have a 2022 Expedition Max Limited. Once service plans expire, do people feel comfortable doing basic maintenance like oil changes and rotations outside the dealership?

I drove my 2015 Expedition about 5 miles from work to the park, then shut it off. All electrical immediately shut off (including SYNC which normally stays on until the door is opened.) My electronic locks wouldn't unlock and the light even went off on my phone charger. I couldn't even use the key fob to unlock it. I tried to start it again with no luck, no dash lights at all, no clicks or sounds like you would expect from a failing battery. I'm letting it sit for a while, in hopes that it will start back with no issues when I'm ready to leave the park.

Semi-relevant information: it has a relatively new battery. I think 1.5 years old? It started fine this morning and it is 87 degrees right now, so I wouldn't expect a battery failure to show up. We did take a road trip last weekend and it did this once, not started right back up after.

Any ideas?

Less than 1500 miles, the rear fan is stuck on high. Turning it off or turning it down doesn't work (just turns back on and goes to max). Confirmed the buttons on the console aren't stuck so assuming a software glitch. Is there a way to reset everything to try to force it out of whatever loop it's stuck in?