r/fpv

Who is posting this on ebay? 🤣 I guess someone's trash is another man's very very expensive treasure. 🫪

Just wondering if I’m the only one that uses heat shrink tubing to manage their motor wires, if there are others and what the pros and cons are of any.

I know if I need to replace a motor I’ll have to cut away the heat shrink too, but to be fair, that’s much less annoying than de-soldering and re-soldering the motor and it’s already off for easy tubing replacement at that point.

Also quite handy that you can stretch the tubing if needed. I just think it gives a good, clean look to my custom builds.

Hey all! I just released YStreamer, a free and open-source alternative to Cosmostreamer.

It gives your DJI goggles HDMI output and can stream the feed over the network into OBS, Mission Planner/QGroundControl, or straight to YouTube, all from a Raspberry Pi 4B.

Supported goggles:

• DJI Goggles 2/Integra, G3/N3, over USB-C (stable)
• DJI Goggles V1/V2, over USB-A (experimental, unstested)
• Other USB capture devices are also supported (over USB-A), including analog USB receivers such as the Eachine ROTG02, and some DJI Action cams in webcam/UVC mode

Setup takes a few minutes, no SSH or terminal needed:

1. Flash the image to a microSD card
2. Connect the goggles to the Pi's USB-C port, and power the Pi via GPIO or PoE (the USB-C port is used for the goggles)
3. Boot it up and configure everything from the web UI, over Ethernet or the Pi's own Wi-Fi hotspot

It's an early beta (released yesterday) and currently supports only the Pi 4B. I'm working on broader hardware support and fixing bugs as they come in.

Website & docs: https://ystreamer.yarosfpv.com/
Source code: https://github.com/YLabs-FPV/YStreamer

If you try it, I'd love to hear your feedback, good or bad!

Hi All,

Turns out no one in the world will make my dream radio - a gamepad-sized radio that will accommodate my fav gimbals - the AG01s from Radiomaster.

Does anyone know of anyone who has produced a 3d model/print for to do this?

Picture for attention - this guy seems to have come close, but f#$k paying 700 bucks. lol

Crashed into a soccer post and the battery took the brunt of it. Should I discharge it and trash it or keep it?

I build this drone just about a month ago and notices that my controller loses signal in just about 1km. I am really confused because i thought that a true diversity antenna should bring good range and i dont know what to do. Just for info i live in europe to i use lbt and my controller is the jumper t pro v2. Both antennas are on the arms. Also while i am here why does my o4 pro also only reach about that distance before going into the red?

I am not completely new but just as new that i dont know whats wrong. Any help is really appreciated.

Hi everyone! I’m 15 and I’m not experienced with FPV, so sorry if I’m missing something obvious.

About a year ago I was about to fly my drone. When I plugged in the battery, a bit of smoke came out of the main board. Since that day, one of the motors doesn’t work anymore, and when I arm the drone that motor locks up. I tried replacing it with a brand new motor, but it didn’t fix it.

It’s a pre-assembled FPV drone with an all-in-one board (flight controller and ESC together). I don’t know the exact model. I use a 3S 850 mAh battery, and I also noticed some black, burnt-looking plastic on the battery connectors.

I’d like to try to repair it myself instead of throwing it away. I attached photos of the drone and a short video where you can see me arming it and the motor locking up.

Any help or advice would be really appreciated. Thank you! 🙏

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the quick and helpful replies! I did some further checks. It’s a single AIO board (not a stack) with a 25.5 x 25.5 mm mounting pattern. I connected it to Betaflight via USB (without a battery), and it’s recognized as a JHEF405PRO. The gyro, barometer, and OSD are all detected correctly, so the flight controller section seems to be working fine. I also noticed a slight deformation on the MOSFET next to the output for the faulty motor; it really looks like that component burned out, just as you suspected.

I’ve looked for this board online, but it’s hard to find. Since I’m a beginner, I think replacing the whole board is the safest bet. Does anyone know of a good, affordable 25.5 x 25.5 AIO board compatible with 3S batteries that I could use as a replacement? Thanks again!

Hey everyone,

I've been quietly reverse engineering the Walksnail Avatar Goggles X for a while, and I just released the first public version of QCZEK X — an independent research project that opens the goggles up for custom software development.

What it currently does:

• Permanent root SSH access over the goggles' Wi-Fi — survives reboots, no need to re-do anything
• Custom native applications running directly on the goggles (not an overlay/trick — actual apps)
• An application launcher on the goggles itself
• A web-based app manager + a Windows tool that prepares the device
• Access to buttons and selected hardware interfaces

The release ships with a few demo apps: Hardware Info (system/hardware monitoring), AudioTest (graphics, audio, buzzer) and a playable Arkanoid — because obviously the first thing you port to any hacked hardware is Arkanoid. :)

Video of the full process (internal USB port, driver install, rooting, launching apps): https://qczek.beyondrc.com/qczek-x/

Important caveats:

• Verified only with firmware 39.44.18. Don't assume anything else works — check the compatibility page before trying.
• This is experimental software that touches low-level stuff. Do not update the firmware after installing, and read the docs first — you can soft-brick the goggles if you're careless.
• Not affiliated with Caddx/Walksnail in any way, this is an independent community project.

Longer term I want to document the platform properly (Linux + RTOS side, video pipeline, kernel modules, maybe Bluetooth) so other people can build their own apps for it too. Happy to answer questions in the comments — technical ones especially welcome.

Project page + downloads (free): https://qczek.beyondrc.com/qczek-x/

(The project is self-funded — if anyone wants to support the hardware-research budget there's a Ko-fi link on the page, but the software itself is free and will stay free.)

https://bbl3d.weyland.enterprises/ or https://bbl3d.0s.is/
Choose Google 3D top right and add your (free, no CC required token) from https://ion.cesium.com/

The camera angle is also in the settings. Open data (EE) only applies for Estonia. The sample logs are machine-generated.

PS: If your browser or AV says it's a malicious link, it's just because of the number in my domain. You can run it locally - source code here: https://github.com/hronecviktor/bbl3d

Hi everyone,
My DJI O4 Air Unit Wide crashed, and after inspecting the mainboard, I found a cracked area on the PCB. From what I can see under a microscope, there may be two broken traces in the damaged area.
I’ve been trying to find PCB layer images, board schematics, or high-resolution pictures of the O4 Air Unit Wide mainboard online, but I haven’t had any luck.
I’m hoping someone here might have:
High-resolution images of both sides of the O4 Air Unit Wide mainboard.
PCB layer images or boardview files.
Schematics or trace routing information for this board.
Experience repairing cracked DJI O4 Air Unit PCBs.
I’ve attached photos of the damaged board, including a microscope view of the cracked area.
Does anyone know where I can find the PCB layer information, or could someone help identify the potentially broken traces and where they connect?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Just wanted to share mine and a mates setups on a nice sunny day, let us know what you think

Very bulky and heavy but damn, I love the wide angle and the possibilty to frame and edit whatever I want.

This was shot in 5.7K manual ISO, shutter , I did manual tracking and added the blur on the insta software, then I imported it in Premiere, applied the original LUT for the I-Log profile and added a SL. Great quality but as you can notice I never zoomed in, because the resolution is still too low for a narrow shot

Hi everyone,

I'm experiencing an issue with the analog video feed on my BetaFPV Air75 II Champion and would appreciate some help diagnosing it.

I'm seeing many thin horizontal lines across the image. They are present even when the motors are not spinning.

I'm wondering whether this could be electrical noise affecting the camera's power supply, interference in the analog video signal, an RF issue, or a problem with the camera itself.

What would you recommend checking first? Are there any known issues with the Air75 II Champion's integrated electronics that could cause this?

I'd appreciate any troubleshooting suggestions, especially from anyone who has experienced similar symptoms on a micro analog FPV drone.

Thanks!