Something like FLIRC but a more general one that I can buy from AliExpress? I've tried to search on AliExpress but couldn't find one such device. A simple infrared to USB receiver and simple programming that allows me to control mpc-hc with a standard tv remote.
I've been using MakeMKV to back up my 4K discs as ISOs, since the videos won't play directly from the discs on PC without skipping. Hasn't been a problem for any other content so far, but Andor has audio skipping problems – FREQUENTLY. What's strange is that if I prevent madVR from switching the display mode when in full screen and leave it at 60 Hz, I have no issue. Why would that be the case when the content is definitely 24 fps?
Saw the price of the steam machine and almost threw up. Discovered this subreddit, studied the HTPC wiki for a day, went over to Microcenter, paid the same amount that the Steam Machine with 2TB and a controller would cost for a 9070XT/7500X3D AM5 system with a better processor, same storage and TRIPLE the performance. Used Rufus program to debloat Windows 11 (didn’t use Linux since I also want to play XBOX Gamepass) and managed to set the system to bypass Windows online nonsense for a smooth boot-up straight into Steam Big Picture mode.
I'm watching 4k movies on a Samsung TV (as a monitor, Win11, HDR10+) with MPC-HC + madVR and every few minutes it freezes for about 4 seconds. I have a RTX 4050 laptop (Asus TUF A17).
I have had this problem in the past (like last year) and solved it somehow, but I cannot remember exactly what I did (I'm not very tech savvy, but I'm good at finding guides and subreddits to follow instructions, also some AI).
Any ideas what could be causing this? I keep trying everything I find and it doesn't seem to solve it (tried resetting MPC-HC and MadVR settings to default, then playing with different options, but did not work). It only stutters when I use madVR or MPC Video Renderer as the DirectShow Video output (the others don't freeze like this, but they are very bland and pale, I suspect it's because they ignore the HDR? Using them is not an option).
Hello everyone,
I’m turning my PC into a console that boots straight into Steam Big Picture. All I want is to use my controller to wake the PC from sleep, boot into Big Picture, play, and put it back to sleep using the controller. That's it**. I'm not looking for CEC support at the moment**
However, I can’t get it to wake from sleep using just my controller.
what I've noticed:
Specs:
I did read the rules my question has nothing to do with the display
What I’ve tried: In Device Manager, the "Allow this device to wake the computer" box is usually greyed out for my USB hubs. Unchecking "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" makes it clickable, but checking it still changes nothing.
Keyboard K2 is counted using Bluetooth
Mouse is also connected using bluetooth
If the issue is Windows 11, does linux have native support for this? if so which one?
This is from the WIKI FAQ:
I have already disabled ErP and Disable Fast Startup and Enabled Allow Device to Wake Computer under the USB device properties in Device Manager where possible
Any advice to get this running like a true console would be awesome. Thanks!
Solution #1 - linked provided by u/KxrmaJunkie works
Regedit method the controller will be connected to the pc directly. Can wake the pc. Doesn't work on all motherboards. Worth a try since it's free
incase link is broken in the future
The FIX
" In regedit go to Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\BTHPORT\Parameters add a new 32bit DWORD item named "SystemRemoteWakeSupported" and set the value to 1. Restart PC.
I found this solution on an ASUS forum, it might be enough to get it working for you. But it wasn't enough for me. In addition I had to do the following:
• Turn the Bluetooth-paired Xbox Controller ON
• In device manager under "Human Interface Devices" there will be an item called “HID-Compliant Game Controller.” It won’t show up if the controller is off.
• Right-Click the “HID-Compliant Game Controller” > Properties > Power Management > put a check in the box for "Allow this device to wake computer."
Caveats: it takes 10-15 seconds for the controller to wake the PC (atleast it does with my AX211 PCIE BT adapter) and you have to press a button (any button) immediately after pressing the guide button. Just pressing the guide button by itself won’t wake it.
So the old Xbox adapter is still the best solution if you can find it, that will wake up the PC immediately just by pressing the guide button once. I ended up getting a used one cause I don't want to wait 10 seconds for my PC to wake. " I also unplugged my xbox controller dongle.
I'm using the latest versions of MPC-BE + madvr + Lav video, and i barely changed anything.
Do these colorspace/display/range values in the OSD reflect a correct setup? My TV is limited to HDMI 2.0 (Sony XE930)
I recently got an LG C5. I haven't been able to get the correct SDR colors when output at RGB Full.
The guides I've looked at recommend it and there's no reason it should be impossible, but I've tried everything to get it to work. I have two work arounds, neither is ideal. If I set my AMD drivers to output at RGB Limited it appears correct, but I lose the deep blacks. This is especially unfortunate since I'm watching Star Trek. If I turn HDR on the blacks look correct but then the colors are incorrect. I've included pictures of my settings.
Please let me know if I've done anything wrong. I've tried multiple different players. I'm using my C5 in Filmmaker mode with game optimizer enabled with all the settings recommended by the guide from this subreddit.
Edit: I briefly fixed it by switching the TV's color from Full to Auto. Then after closing and reopening MPC-HC it's broken again.
Hi everyone, I just got a dell micro 3070 from work for free. i know it's an old machine, but What I am looking for is a streaming box for jellyfin/youtube/media stuff and also a console like experience like steam desk top where I can stream my games from my main pc with apollo or steam link and play games from there. I've read a little about bazzite and it looks ok but also says my gpu isnt compatible, but I don't want it gaming directly? Would I be better off just buying an nvidia shield pro? I was going to get a steam box to do this job but it being $1500 CAD I could just build a whole new itx pc for that price and I'd rather not do that. I also considered HDMI over ethernet to the TV but we are stuck on wifi and are renting so we cant run ethernet :( Thank you for any thoughts!
Hi, I'm dealing with some interlaced MPEG-2 (XDCAM EX 35) video from a Sony PMW-EX3 (and I also deal with other types of interlaced footage like DV and DVD), and madVR isn't deinterlacing it at all. I have to change the renderer to MPC Video Renderer to get it to deinterlace. Does madVR support deinterlacing or not?
Hi folks. With the new steam machines coming out, I’m wondering what the state of the art is as far as a steamos-based HTPC. I have a lot of ripped UHD blu rays and would love to make full use of atmos, HDR10, etc. Is that currently possible? Or should I just stick with my Shield?
With the steam deck coming in had seen a couple of videos about HTPC and i had most of this issues (can’t play trueHD from appletv and jellyfin can’t either/also couch gaming) and since i knew the gabe cube would be 1000+ i got to thinking. I had my spare 3080 and 5600x from 2021 that I upgraded from (4090 main, still AM4). So i scavenged and got all parts for about 700.
5600x
3080 Evga ftw3 10gb
Corsair sf750
S300
Axp x47 black
2x MP600 1TB (FB deal 100 ea, 93% life, amazing)
B550i asus strix
Cheap low profile memory 16gb DDR4
So anyway I build it up. Stock is pretty bad. 90c cpu, 81c gpu. Mind you i have to unscrew the whole top to fix this massive 3080 and is pretty loud. I got to tinker, changed cpu fan to 92x25 but that was worse in every config as i had already read. Added 120x15 and 92x14 bottoms as exhaust (yes intake is worst).
With the cpu i added a shroud jerry rigged from a car speaker foam i had extra, that dropped 90->85. Then i did pbo curve optimizer -25 and got 82 all on cinebench R23. I noticed my 65w was pulling 105w so found out to turn off asus overdrive or whatever is called and set my cpu manually to 90/60/105w plus -26 curve and +25 cpu clock curve. That got me to 76c at 92w 4.5ghz clock.
For the gpu it barely fits literally so got 3 black 92x15 noctuas HS and deshrouded. Zipties and more foam to seal to the mesh and the gpu. I tried exhaust first with bottom fans intake and that was bad for gpu and cpu. 81c from steel nomad.
Changed to exhaust same sealed and bottom fan exhaust as well. Also for the side panels i sealed both with electric tape so only the intake for the gpu and split the cpu/psu side with a cut out letter to streamline cpu flow and sealed around the duct cpu entrance.
Final temps:
Cpu 76c 100%, 92w on cinebench R23
Gpu 67c 100% 320w steel nomad x3
Really good and temps are even lower gaming around 60s and cpu could be set to 75w to drop 5-8c more.
Other than that used color control and a lot of headache to turn tv on automatically and ended up doing a sleep batch to turn tv off. Now using xbox mode to turn on to games right away, configured my xbox elite 2 with my old wifi adapter to turn pc from sleep and got a small keyboard/mouse combo remote that can also turn the tv on. Configured MPC HT and now TrueHD and DRS-HD is flawless.
I had a lot of questions and ended up just trying things. The s300 pro would be better but was more expensive and would have taken longer to get. In the end this seems to be 2-3x more powerful than the cube for a good amount less.
And a lot of things surprised me like the gpu temps deshrouded. At one point on exhaust it was 85c but turned out only one fan was spinning then lol.
Feel free to ask any questions.
UPDATE: irblaster.info has the products you want if you're looking to add infrared to an HTPC. There is also a newer storefront at ezmation.com. The IR emitters they sell are short range, intended to be placed directly on or in front of the device you want to control, but they also make custom solutions with longer range IR emitters. Mike responds very quickly to email.
My PC has a pin header on the motherboard for a serial connection, so I've just ordered a serial port from Newegg to install on the back of the case. I'd really like to be able to automate switching inputs on my projector from the PC, as there's a specific use case where I need to switch HDMI connections on the projector rather than my AV receiver.
The projector has an RS232 connection on the back, but I'd really rather avoid having an installer come out here to run another cable through my attic. I think LIRC or WinLIRC should be able to fulfill my purpose with just an IR transmitter/receiver. The LIRC website has a few recommendations for USB transmitters, but I couldn't find any of them web searching, so I think they've all been discontinued. The FAQ seems very out of date. Can anyone recommend me a product? It's fine if it's USB, but it seems like LIRC is made for serial connections, and I will soon have a serial port available to me.
EDIT before anyone recommends Flirc: I have this receiver already, and a Skip 1s arriving soon. I expect it'll perform admirably as a universal remote so I don't have to keep handing off three or four different controllers. However, I'd have to program a somewhat complicated macro to one of the Skip 1s buttons to get the projector to do what I want in this instance, so I'd really rather have the PC send the IR signal rather than the remote. Anyway, the Flirc USB apparently works poorly as a transmitter, and I don't even know how to get it to send a signal to the projector, or if that's possible.
So I’ve literally never gotten my setup to properly work with cec. I have my pc connected to my Denon as well as my cable box and Apple TV, then hdmi earc from AVR to tv. However I had it in a usable state where I just had to use the tv remote and the Apple Remote until a few weeks ago when my power went out while everything was on.
Now the behavior has changed, and no amount of unplugging, turning off cec and turning it back on, or other troubleshooting has helped return it to how I used to have it.
It’s super frustrating as my pc is my main device I use, and previously I could use just my tv remote to turn on both the tv and receiver and it would automatically be set to my 5080 as input. Now when I turn the tv on it turns on the receiver to my pc input then immediately switches to tv, meaning I have to now reach for my barely ever used AVR remote to switch the input back to pc every single time I turn the tv on.
Am I just fucked? I’ve tried all the typical cec troubleshooting steps to no avail.
Hey all. Some of you may be familiar with this issue, but my setup is a little different than other threads I've found.
I have my Windows 11 PC connected to my LG B4 TV via fiber optic HDMI. Using an optical cable, I have the TV connected to an Onkyo TX-SR393. The receiver is properly set up to output to all 5.1 channels.
Windows 11 only gives options to output:
When I try to configure the speaker settings for Dolby Atmos in Windows, it fails to save the setting and reverts every time.
I do not want to use eARC, because the receiver is limited to 4k @ 60Hz, whereas I can output 4k @ 120Hz direct to the LG B4.
Selecting "Dolby Surround" on the receiver indicates that all 5.1ch are active, but I still only get 2.0 output from surround test audio.
Selecting "Direct" on the receiving indicates that only 2.0ch are active, even with "Dolby Atmos for Home Theater" selected in Windows 11.
I don't care to use Atmos, but I can't find another way to output 5.1ch from Windows.
Full build info can be found here.
Any ideas?
As title says,
I am upgrading my current system and will have old system lying around. With some additional investment i can make it into low profile HTPC. Its 10yr old i7-6700k | 32 GB | 1060 OC 6GB
The question here is:
Is it worth investing $100-$200 in the old one and turn it into HTPC or buy NUC/Mini pc (~$300-$400)
both have pros n cons:
Using old pc
Using Mini pc
for context, i already have a dedicated server running; so htpc wont be doing running any server.
TIA community.
Hey everyone,
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I built a HTPC to replace my aging VCR xbox one for both gaming and multimedia use.
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I would like to get as close to a console like experience by using Windows 11 and running steam big picture mode at startup.
The idea would be to do everything with a controller from the couch (like we are used to with the xbox).
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Do you guys know if it is possible to run the Netflix app (which support controller) from steam big picture, and if the Disney+ app also support controllers?
I want to wake my W11 PC with an Xbox Controller, and bring the TV out of standby to the proper input.
Will this work instead of a Pulse-Eight?:
I'm helping a friend replace his older streaming PC. He will have it hooked up to his living room TV and use it to stream on a web browser and maybe some local playback. He has a separate PC for gaming. His budget is $300 and we will probably get a mini pc during Amazon prime day next week
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His current one is a 4th gen intel and struggles sometimes as it doesn't support modern codecs
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I'm probably picking out whatever n150 system with 16gb ram is on sale. A gmtek or geecom ect. From what I can tell that chip is the cheapest that supports hardware AV1 decoding making it pretty future proof
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Just requesting a sanity check. Is there anything I'm overlooking?
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I realize the n100 /150 is only e cores and pretty weak but that shouldn't matter. I seen an amd 3550h near the same price range that is a much stronger CPU but older and doesn't do AV1 hardware decode. Looks like you need 6000/7000 AMD series, if any of those end up under 300 sure we will get it but seems doubleful