We’ve designed this kallax layout for the living room but would like one of the 2x2 spaces to have no dividers, ie be a larger square. Is this possible or are they intrinsic to the structure?
Heres my AI inspired desk setup, my question is will i be able to drill a wooden beam either side of the pax wardrobes to support the weight of a 125cm karlby top (cutting the kalby to that length) as well as the monitors etc. i will also be putting a beam on the back wall to support the weight too.
if its too much for the pax to handle ill get the legs but ideally it would look better if it appeared to be floating.
appreciate the feedback.
We have a Besta near our front door and we always unintentionally open it. I wanted to figure out how to remove the “push to open” part of the drawer and couldn’t find any instructions online. So I took the rails off and made it happen myself.
I’ll post a crappy video about how to do it in the first comment because posting it here made me dizzy. I don’t want to gate-keep with a video: you just cut out a little plastic part of the rail and it’s done.
Hi, I’m looking for ideas how to make two side-by-side pax wardrobes in the middle of a wall look like custom millwork. I have windows on either side so I cannot do anything connecting the wardrobe to the wall on either side.
Here is a picture of the space. I am thinking building a platform with a box around both units but not sure. There is a tall slanted ceiling at the top so I cannot connect them to the ceiling either.
I would appreciate any and all ideas as I have been looking for months and cannot find anything suitable
Tomorrow is the day! My husband, father in law and myself will begin building/assembling my built in ikea billy book case wall…
What tips do you have?
What do you wish you’d done differently?
What tips do you have when it comes to building the base?
If there’s electrical sockets can we leave them be?
Also, my book cases are white..I’m going to paint later..
Thought process right now: build the base, assemble the bookcases, set them up on the base….trim(fill in gaps)/paint, later…thoughts on this process?
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!
Title says,
I have a red tie dye set and saw this. I'm wondering if I can mess around with it and it will look. Somewhat? Okay? Or it's a waste of effort ?
Curious if anyone else had any projects with their fabrics or textiles
Finally finished my display wall using IKEA cabinets.
Wanted something that looked built-in without spending custom cabinetry money. Added lighting, glass doors, and used it to display my retro games, miniatures, and collectibles.
Pretty happy with how it turned out!
I also filmed the whole build process if anyone is curious how it went together: https://youtu.be/g7Sm4qtofTM
Happy to answer any questions about the cabinet layout, lighting, or costs.
About two months ago I designed a height reducer for our toddler’s IKEA MAMMUT stool and shared it in this sub.
It ended up getting way more attention than I expected.
Then u/Wise-Orchid-309 commented that the feet looked like little hooves… and that immediately gave me an idea.
A few evenings later, those little hooves had turned into actual cat paws. 😄
They simply snap onto the original IKEA legs, lower the stool by about 3.5 cm, require no modifications, and can be printed as a simple single-color model. I also designed optional TPU paw pads for extra grip and floor protection.
If you’d like to print a set yourself, the model is available for free.
Thanks again to u/Wise-Orchid-309 for the inspiration!
Looking for some sort of shelving unit that fits over the upright piano (see first photo) to store books and other things. In a perfect world, a bookshelf would go on this wall but there is nowhere else for the piano to go. Second photo is sort of vibe I’m going for but without it being built in. I know with the limited wall space we may just be looking at a few shelves over top as opposed to on sides, which is fine. Any ideas for ikea pieces that would work for this purpose?
Does anyone have an ikea hack for a wall mounted yoga mat holder, with a shelf as well? These pics are from Etsy which I was considering but the price is too high
I don't know why I'm even bothering with this.
I think it may be more challenging than worth the task.
Since Pax is indeed.... a closet.....
However - some pieces seem cheaper - and depending on how you're styling it ( which I intend to just have shelves , hangers and open space - with doors
Rather than PAX - the fancy drawers , glass pull out for jewelry , the shoe holder things
I guess the main question is - if you used sektion for anything other than what it's supposed to be - kitchen cabinets!? I want to know how it went!!
I want to get some Billy bookcases for my work-from-home office, and of course I can't just put together a standard single colour, I want something unique.
The idea (pic 1) was to use the tall black bookcases, and replace the middle fixed shelf and one more of the movable shelves in each with the 'brown walnut' colour. Of course you can't buy the fixed shelf parts by themselves, only the movable ones...
I am hoping that if I buy the shorter bookcases that their parts will be a straight swap - same drill hole sizes and placement.
The movable shelves I'm sure will be fine, but what about the middle fixed shelves? Is the top and bottom fixed shelf on the shorter bookcases an identical part to the middle fixed shelf on the taller bookcases?
I had a look in Ikea and nothing looked off to me, just wondering if anyone has done this, or happens to have both sizes pulled apart and not assembled yet to check ;)
If not possible the backup idea (pic 2) is to just put a brown walnut narrow bookcase between two black ones, and in either case will be swapping other shelves for glass and putting wallpaper on the backing boards.
Cheers!
I'm trying to build a floor-to-ceiling fitted wardrobe and I'm torn between modifying IKEA PAX frames or building the carcass from scratch. My main concerns are structural strength, joinery, and whether sharing side panels between PAX frames is a bad idea. If you've built wardrobes or hacked PAX before, I'd really appreciate your advice.
Here's the situation:
My alcove is 263 cm high × 297.5 cm wide × 68 cm deep.
My original plan was to use four IKEA PAX frames (75 × 58 × 236 cm) on top of a custom 27 cm plinth. Four frames would normally be 300 cm wide, but by removing the three duplicated side panels between adjacent frames, the total width becomes about 297 cm, which fits my space perfectly.
The first problem is the shared side panels. Each PAX frame is designed to have its own side panel, so by sharing one panel between two frames, both sets of cam locks and dowels would need to attach to the same board.
Has anyone tried this?
Does it remain structurally sound?
Would replacing the shared panels with thicker plywood solve the problem, or will the fittings interfere with each other?
The second question is whether I should skip the IKEA carcasses altogether and build one from scratch.
The custom carcass would use:
• 18 mm plywood or MDF
• Continuous top and bottom panels
• Two outer sides and three internal dividers
• A back panel
• IKEA PAX drawers, shelves, rails, and other internal accessories
Would 18 mm plywood be strong enough for a wardrobe this size, or would you recommend thicker panels for the sides and top?
Finally, I have almost no woodworking experience. I've been looking at pocket hole joinery (Kreg-style) because it seems beginner-friendly.
Is that a good choice for building a wardrobe carcass, or is there a better method for someone starting out?
I'm not looking for a complete tutorial. I'm mainly trying to decide which route makes the most sense:
• Modify IKEA PAX
• Build the carcass myself and use IKEA internals
I've attached two simple diagrams showing both ideas.
Thanks in advance for any advice or experiences you can share!
I retrofitted the 30cm brackets into the deeper 50cm brackets and then added curved corners to make it neater. The bucket shelves are perfect for records too! Love IVAR
I had a big Jaspers stand for a while, but it was pretty much always gathering dust. It's too big (or I don't have enough gear), and I was never fan of the ergonomics. But the biggest issue was, that it was a different desk from my computer. So I could either use JUST the Push + Modular or JUST the Mac, or I had to move everything over. Now I have my Speakers connected to my mac directly, and this cart connects to the speakers, USB C and power via one big tether out the back. It's next to my desk and I can just pull it out, turn it on and have everything setup, no matter what I wanna do.
This is an Ikea Raskog cart (the big one, there are two sizes), and the bamboo top cover hides the wires unterneath. I've used a thick wooden dowel rod I had, used some long hose clamps to connect it to the back of the cart and mounted the Befaco case using a VESA pipe clamp I used for my Jaspers stand. It's a little bit wobbly, but not to the point that it bothers me.
I've added two panel mount headphone jacks on the front, so I don't need to dig around the back or below my case to find them. Wasn't the best job to do inside my office tho, I had metal shavings flying everywhere 🫠
I really like how it turned out overall, now I'll jam :D
Hi, We did our ikea kitchen a year ago and I just realised that this shelve holder thingy (sorry! Idea what this would be called) is different and would like to buy more of the ones with the plastic cover to cover the underneath notches, hoping that would make it neater. I can't find it on their website to purchase and my husband can't remember, but think comes with the order. Can I find these somewhere else too, like Amazon?
Hello hackers!
We bought a set of the stackable Utåker beds for our small guest room. It fits the queen bed formation but we usually have it stacked up to save space. In the future we will also use it as kids’ low beds.
My parents are visiting in a few months to help with the birth of our first child, and they are at an age where the lower configuration (23cm high + mattress height) is a little hard to reach for their knees. They would prefer the bed to be at the height of the stacked formation (46cm high + mattress height).
Has anyone ever tried to build/buy wooden risers for these beds? Ideally we’d like to be able to temporarily raise the beds by 23-30cm. We would prefer not to get the ugly plastic bed risers since they seem a little unwieldy and I don’t think my parents would be comfortable with that.
Any tips or tricks appreciated!
Live in a small NYC apartment, and decided to put in some brimnes cabinets to help with storage! Because the bottom of my walls have jutting out baseboards the cabinets don’t sit flush against the wall and there’s a gap between the top back and the wall behind it. Any creative and cute solutions to fill this gap?
I’ve already spent a lot of $$ and time acquiring the pieces and building so budget friendly solutions greatly appreciated!
I spent a couple days building a new closet and I think it turned out really nice! I added the handles I found in another IKEA hacker post. I also found that, as I learned here, you can put the drawers a LOT closer together. My original design only had 3 drawers in each of those spots.
For the wall color, I took one of the smaller drawer pieces to Home Depot and had it color matched. It’s identical!
Thanks for all the tips from all your posts! :)
(Note: I didn’t take a before picture because I would never have shown anyone what it looked like before…)
Very small hack for the JÄRRESTAD footstool, but it makes me happy :)
I bought this footstool with storage from Ikea on clearance. The lid flips over and lays pretty flat on top, and I wanted to be able to use it as a side table/surface for drinks. So I also bought a ihallig placemat to cover the under-side. It's the perfect size. It took about 5 minutes to unscrew the screws under the lid, put the placemat down, and then screw them back in :)
*Edited to fix typo in "placemat"