Got my first cut in today on my TTTF lawn! Overseeded on 9/27 in Lebanon, TN. Got extremely quick results this year! Hit it with Flagship 24-0-6 a few days ago, gonna let that kick in and start pushing more nitrogen and iron for growth and color this fall and early green up in the spring!
Spend weeks prepping the lawn, from weeds to scalping, thatching, clearing, leveling, seeding, fertilizing, and watering 3x a day for 21 days. I always wanted a nice-looking lawn. Culligan came with a delivery and left my hard work like this. No heads up no phone call no apology, just came home after work to this.
Zone 6B -
Probably too late to seed and start over that area. Best solution for right now ? They said they’re gonna go through insurance but we know how long this process can take.
6 weeks of growth, and 2 mows.
Scalped, crabgrass and weeds hand pulled, topsoil layed down and raked.
Seeded, re-raked, watered 1x per day for 4 weeks. first mow after 5 weeks, 2nd after 6.
Reseeded bare spots after first mow.
Used Scott’s rapid grass, sun and shade mix.
With your guys help and advice I was able to turn my yard around in a big way this year. I look forward to many more good lawn care years with you all!
Saw little green stems in my pile. Thought "naaahhh probably not JK". Sure enough, weeks later...
Well I guess I have some confirmation over growth from my overseed this fall. Southwest Ohio.
Is there anywhere I can rent a gas powered “power rake” dethatcher after winter to thatch out my lawn? Located in DFW
Time line:
May early, zorro zoysia sod 1000 sq ft put down with new dirt, watered correctly allll summer long, inch deep inch per week once established, thick, tightly knitted in
mowed once per week once established
Late summer, sprayed with celsius for heave spotted spurge
soil test, 7.4 ph - high, spray with micro nutrients iron
later in Sept, put down pre-emergent
Grass was thick, knitted in, lush.
Then, we started seeing moths. ID'ed as sodweb worm
Sprayed with Bif.
Yes, it's been crazy hot all summer. We have irrigation system and stayed on top of the watering. I don't know if it got too much chemical, for the spurge, the moths, the pre emergent. Could this be large patch?
Now, our beautiful lush lawn look like a mix of straw colored grass with green. I've seen some rust looking spots. I don't know what to do at this point.
I am really trying to get better at identifying different zoysia cultivars when I see them “in the wild”. Every time I do Google searches comparing different zoysia varieties, the pictures don’t seem to give a good contrast between them. Has anyone found a guide or online site that helps you identify in pictures? I know with some genetically similar types the difference is less visual as much as it’s a difference in environment, but I would like to easily tell the difference between emerald, Zeon, and a few others in order to decide what I like the most.
I have read all the differences on charts, which is why I think Zeon would probably be best for me, but I would like to see it in photos compared to other varieties side-by-side. Most sellers near me don’t keep it in stock but ship straight from the farms to your house, so it’s difficult to see what it would look like. Just trying to plan ahead for the spring when I resod my entire yard.
DFW (north) Texas climate (summer). I have a Zoysia grass yard that is just over a year old. Early in the growing season (April/May) the yard was taking off like normal. We were leaving for vacation so to avoid coming back to a jungle, I lowered the mower height one notch and here we are. For the most part, the grass growth never came back. There are very tall blades sporadically throughout the entire yard. I know from the edges of the grass blades that my lawnmower was not cutting them cleanly so I replaced the mower blade. That did not help. We have a sprinkler system which during the summer drought I was running three days a week, two run cycles per watering day. I was determined not to lose this grass and in the process I think I may have been overwatering it? The moisture gauge level was “wet” for most of the summer (I mistook this for a good thing). I have just cut back watering and the weather temps are finally cooling off. I am also about to replace our older mower so maybe that will help with the “clean cut” issue? It’s also odd to me that the grass seems fine around the perimeter edges where I use a weed-eater for trimming. I’m curious to see if there is anything else that is obviously going on here. Hopefully this is not beyond repair. The last two photos are what the yard looked like last year. Thanks in advance.
Zone 5B
Primarily KBG lawn
Overseed: Twin City Obsidian PRG
Mower: Toro TimeMaster 30” w/roller (2.75”)
*love how it looks when the sun gets low.
The true definition of Kentucky blue grass😭
Title shows my end of season goal. What's yours?
Picture is just to show off.
I’m in ATL and lowered the cut height on my Zeon zoysia in August from 3.5” to 2.5” and since doing that the dark green luster hasn’t returned. I did the cuts in .25” increments over a 2 week period. During that time and a few weeks after we had excessive heat and little rain but got alot of rain recently and it’s remained a light green. Edge areas I don’t mow that are 3+” are still dark green. I applied ironite and Milagonite 3 weeks ago but haven’t seen results. Nighttime temps here are in the 60’s and daytime temps in the mid 80’s. Current grass color is similar to when it starts transitioning to dormancy but that normally happens in November when temps drop. Any input/suggestions you might have on this is appreciated.
I’m in Delaware and looking for some advice on my lawn. I have about 10,000 sq ft total. The front is probably around 75% grass, while the backyard is closer to 50-60% grass, with a decent amount of weeds, especially in the backyard.
I’d like to improve the lawn rather than completely start over. My plan was to core aerate and overseed this fall with a good turf-type tall fescue. I’m considering paying someone to do the aeration and then spreading the seed myself to save some money.
A few questions:
I'm mainly trying to figure out the best sequence and timing rather than just throwing seed down and hoping for the best.
My biggest question is whether getting the weeds under control should be the priority, or whether I should prioritize getting the seed down while conditions are still good.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
[Zone 6a] My first season doing my full lawn myself. The prior year we had a service because we had just moved in and the lawn was terrible with little to no actual grass.
We got a 16 year old tractor mower and a crappy Scott's spreader and I have been following the sage advice in this sub with my fertilizer schedule along with getting an aeration done along with using Blue Resilience to overseed late in August.
Hell of a ton of work but wow was that rewarding. I'm excited to get better at this and for next season.
It’s always early October when the lawn looks its best.
Went hard this fall for my annual overseed in Zone 7a, and I’m pretty happy with how it’s coming along (thanks to all you nerds!)
Started by dethatching aggressively, then put down fertilizer, Huma Green (humate soil conditioner), Thrive (molasses-based soil bio-activator), and a layer of peat moss, followed by Kentucky bluegrass seed.
Then took a spare 8'x8' chainlink fence and did a 1-pass drag across it to push the seed down. I looked like an idiot doing it, but man that works GREAT.
Followed a strict watering schedule of 3x/day (5-7 minutes each) for the first few weeks.
KBG definitely tested my patience at first, but once it decided to show up, it really took off.
Now I just need to resist the urge to mess with it.
Thanks for all the info, my dudes.