r/mazdaspeed3

Finally got around to replacing my old busted bushings and installing the OCC and PCV valve/plate. For anyone on the fence those bushings make a huge difference, the torque steer is less murderous and more like a playful tug. Still have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from the turbo return line... SMH

Greetings from El Salvador🇸🇻, racing my Mazdaspeed 3 at the El Jabalí International Racetrack.

Recently started driving my 2008 mazdaspeed 3 after a year and a half complete rebuild of it after buying it off someone and it's such a fun car plan on a handful of exterior/interior mods and some engine mods but plan to have fun with it

Not the best video but the best one I could take to show what's happening, I have a 2011 speed 3 which has gotten into a weird issue of jerking whenever I shift. When shifting into first there are no problems, however as soon as I press on the clutch and begin shifting to any of the other gears while driving there is a bucking or jerking motion and the rpm begins bouncing up and down until the clutch is reengaged and then it drives absolutely fine again. I have taken some logs if anyone can interpret them I've also sent them off to my tuner to hopefully help. The mods are a catback exhaust, upgraded fuel pump internals, accessport with a professional tune, SRI and TIP so no major modifications and no codes besides the EGR, evap, and intake runners which were taken out. Anyone ran into this before ive asked 3 mechanics and everyone is unsure.

Edit: to add more info, the car did also begin to bog down and die while idling stationary once the clutch pedal was pushed in and ran perfectly fine after it was released which I thought was possibly a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it out and that from what I can tell went away but it could be a fluke or I'm not recreating the exact conditions it was doing it under before.

Cats destroyed so I’m just removing the rest of the cat but damn these cars are low😂 raised the car basically as high as my jacks could and I still barely fit🤣

The driveway angles down towards the back of the car so threw the ramps on backwards so it won’t roll

My car died on my way to work yesterday very suddenly. All my lights came on, lost power steering, pulled over and stopped and the car died. Got it towed home and battery charged. I get it running and test the battery, shows 68% life left which is doable. I run a charging test for the alternator and it says no output. I come back out after 30 minutes because I was putting my daughter to bed and the battery is completely dead. It also smells like ozone a bit. I'm assuming a bad diode and the alternator is no good, but any second opinions before I go that route? I'm going to try the good ole, pull the negative cable trick when the battery is charged again. That's just going to take a while. It's also weird because I replaced the alternator like 2 years ago, idk what would cause it to go so suddenly.

EDIT: Well ... I'm super confused. Charged the battery - I have a trickle charger and just left it for a solid 24 hours. I hooked everything back up, ran some tests, and my tester said the alternator is fine, the battery is healthy, and now everything is apparently fine 🤣. Maybe there's a bad cell in the battery? Someone mentioned they had something similar and it was a bad BCM? Or maybe my alternator is on its way out and just cooperating for now. I honestly don't know.

I was 95% sold on a newer car but decided to keep my 06 MPS (Aus) a little longer... It's my 2nd MPS I've owned, this one is 8 years with me this month 😎

edit: only 2 issues in 8 years, 1 starter motor, 1 clutch plate bracket.

My gen 2 has a small evap leak that just won’t seem to go away. It’s been smoke tested twice. The gas cap has been changed twice. Everything is working exactly as it should be. There are no leaks anywhere in the entire system and every part of the emission system is working perfectly. At my local shop they had multiple guys looking at it for like two hours. There just doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with it anywhere. I wanted to get all codes fixed before I tune with Freektune and this is causing me some trouble. If I decide to just tune it anyways would that cause me any issues I mean I’m starting to wonder if they’re really even is an evap leak.

For comparison my old one at the end.

This cost 39€ including shipment.

I think it suits the car nicely.

Just under 200,000 miles, but still tinkering around. Gotta be able to boost the hounds over to the park.