



I wanted to get everyone’s opinion on this. Was sitting in the parking lot idling for a few minutes when I noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust. Could smell it too. It was the middle of a very hot day, car was warm, so definitely not condensation.
I stopped the car and called a friend, let the car sit for 10 minutes turned off and this was the following startup. The smoke stopped after starting this time but as soon as I started driving home it started billowing out the back at around ~20 mph. Seemed to not be as bad or noticeable if I kept it below ~2-3k rpm.
I’m assuming bad turbo seals? Oil is around the halfway mark. It was closer to full when I checked a few days ago. Coolant is full. Car has about 150k miles but with a replacement engine around 120k. At the time I replaced the engine my mechanic (who specializes in building these specific engines) said the new engine I found looked great and had zero play in the turbo. So I was hoping it’d last a little longer.
Car is totally stock and very well cared for. What’s the best route for a stock turbo replacement? Is one of the CW ones here the consensus?
Also, I don’t plan on driving the car until I can get it to a mechanic… is it safe to drive a short distance to a shop like this?
Thanks all in advance.
Hey y'all,
Got an '08 (123,XXX mi) with a P0301 that I can't resolve for the life of me and it's draining my will to live.
- Compression test and leak down both look stellar
- Recently had her walnut blasted and swapped out injectors/seals with Corksport.
- Mechanic looked over wiring and said everything looks good from what he can tell.
My mechanic thinks it's the spark plugs, even though he pulled them and they're clean and apaces to spec. Thoughts?
What’s up yall i need help figuring out my speed 3 2012 with a cx7 engine swap the engine turns over catches for 1-2 seconds then dies. Pressing the throttle doesn’t do anything it feels like the engine just ignores it. I have had it start and drive as normal but no boost gets built. Spark and fuel is good, I deleted the vtcs because that plastic part on the actuator broke but still haven’t got any luck. Compression is 140 across the board. Obd2 wise i haven’t got any luck but i attached the codes i have got. Any help will be much appreciated from one mazda speed enthusiast to another.
I’m trying to figure out an inconsistent power issue on my 2008 Mazdaspeed3.
Some days the car absolutely rips and feels like it’s making all its power, but other days it feels noticeably slower. It still runs smoothly, doesn’t misfire, and doesn’t smoke under boost.
Build:
Built motor (Manley pistons/rods, King bearings, ARP hardware)
BNR S3 turbo
Treadstone TR8 FMIC
JBR intake
Autotech HPFP internals
3” catless downpipe and full 3” exhaust
Turbosmart BOV
Tuned by Purple Drank Tuning on 93 octane
The tune was never fully finished because I got busy, so it’s on an older revision and runs a little rich. Target boost is around 22–23 psi.
I plan to:
Finish the PD tune
Pressure test the boost system
Clean the MAF and MAP sensors
(Photo is for attention only)
Bought a used HTP under route kit used. Feels like something is missing or bent the wrong way. Does anyone have a picture of there HTP kit mounted on the vehicle for reference please and thanks.
this is the recipe i was given when i bought the car(just bought it), 10,000 miles have been put on since this service the CEL still exists and i can’t figure it out, replaced sensors, tested plugs… etc.
Car is freak tuned with fmic, cobb intake, CS exhaust. Car runs perfect just have CEL more scared than anything just trying to figure it out. Should i contact Justin (freak tune)or the dealer any recommendations would help thx!
This OEMTOOLS Axle Separator must’ve been written in mazda’s prophecies. it turned the extremely tedious axle removal on my 2011 speed 3 into an enjoyable experience that took 2 minutes maximum. i honestly could not be more satisfied with the performance of a tool. 10/10 would seperate axles again.
Hi all,
I'm looking to buy my first set of rims and need some suggestions. I have a red 1st gen and I'm thinking about buying some bronze wheels. My budget is at max 1500$ CAD. Any recommendations?
Squeaks and rattles from the spoiler have been driving me insane, I finally went ahead and started the tightening/gasket replacement job.
Notes:
-There is a ton of accumulated crud above the window after 14 years. The glass adhesive does not seem to have failed anywhere.
-The trim clips used for this thing are not the kind you get for a few pennies in bulk aftermarket. The 3x wide white ones look to be minimum $8 shipped each. None of mine broke so far.
-The thin foam gasket has completely vaporized; using 3M trim tape to provide replacement cushioning.
-Kind of weird how the paint is in completely different state depending on the panel. The roof is in absurdly bad shape. But that top bit of the tailgate which was just as exposed to the sun looks mint. Maybe getting shaded by the spoiler some of the time made a difference, but I doubt that.
-I’m at the point where I think rattle canning some of these panels in my driveway is actually going to look better than the current state. Does anyone have any recommendations for paint that’s a good match? Will probably order dupli-color’s product to see how it goes.
Recently pulled the fuel pump in my tank to change out the sending unit
I purchased a mazdaspeed3 sending unit from eBay
It appears the pump that was inside the tank is completely different and the sending unit will not fit, any ideas on solutions?
Should I count my losses and buy a whole new fuel pump sending unit and fuel pump??
Just need something that’ll fix this I’m trying to sell it.
100% unmodded 2008 Mazdaspeed3, original owner, bought new with 11 miles on her. I love this car.
alright so i bought my speed 3 for 5k but i tracked down the shop that has maintained my speed 3 since 24, at 119k miles and 1 year ago the shop diagnosed that the turbo was going out because its burning oil and it was around 1q every thousand miles. there is no proof the turbo was replaced and it still burns oil (actively figuring out how much) its currently at 129k miles. i have the car going in sometime next week for a full timing replacement so i will have them check the turbo then, but until that happens what turbo options do i have? im seeing turbos for 300-400 bucks on partsgeek and amazon but a oem turbo from mazda is 2500, what am i missing and what should i go with?
I started my ms3 today and heard a whip when I started it. any info would help but I’m pretty certain my timing chain is slapping on start up.
I have my 2010 mazdaspeed3 with a motor from a 2008 speed. The car has a front mount intercooler cst4 turbo and recently the car started with an issue 3 months ago where the act. Hpfp press wasn’t matching with the designated press and would lose pressure dropping to 500-700 psi when full throttling. Now the car idle rpms fluctuate up and down and randomly wants to stall, and a strange hissing sound coming from the engine. Car also gives codes P0300, P0171, P0507. Could it be the PRV valve? Or a vacuum leak?
Hi all, I’m having issues going into reverse and 1st gear, it takes a lot of effort to actually get it into gear. I got my clutch and flywheel replaced awhile ago but it’s been a headache. I went to a shop to get my master cylinder replaced and then three months later I had it replaced again but under warranty. The issue is happening again so I’m suspecting the transmission. If you guys have any advice to maybe this has happened to you, I would appreciate some guidance.
Since the corksport wheel is no longer being made, I was looking for something similar. I’m not a fan of the carbon fiber wheels and this was the only all leather one I found. Not sure about the quality do yall think it would be ok to run. It has a review with photos of it and looks decent. If anyone has any similar wheels I would appreciate the link or if someone is selling a cs one for Gen 2.
Hello all, I really need some help because I am currently losing my mind. I am installing some autotech hpfp internals and I hit a wall in attempting to remove the piston from the seal screw and my night rapidly went downhill from there.
I've watched about 15 install videos, read multiple guides, and read multiple reddit posts, and every single one indicates that the piston should pull directly out of the seal screw, and despite me using literally all of my strength, my piston is not budging (I've attached a video as evidence of my last attempt, fuel pump in a vice, spring pushed down, pulling from the spring retainer and seal screw threaded into the pump for maximum pulling force, but I've also attempted it with the internals removed from the pump housing). I figure I must be missing something here. Please tell me I'm just a huge dumb dumb. The piston sleeve seems have a bit of travel within the seal screw, but the piston itself isn't moving at all.
Furthermore, in one of my attempts to free the piston, I ended up dropping the internals and damaging the side of the seal screw (picture in comments). As this part is intended to be reused, my assumption is that I'll have to procure another one before reinstalling, but I figured I'd ask before I go buying more things.
I'm at my wits end trying to get this piston out, and finding very little advice online, so any tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm considering trying to punch the piston out from the bottom, but I'm afraid I'll just end up damaging more of the internals.
Great track day at Club Motorsports, looking forward to going back