Guess what coin is graded MS-63 and what one is graded MS-61?? Both are cac graded, good luck 🙏 God Bless!
1881-o straight graded, go ahead and guess the grade. This sis just one example I’m using to prove CAC is Robbing the coin collecting community blind! First please review the photos and give fair grade and I will let you know what cacg gave me. This is a great example to use but they have done this on every single coin, and some are way way way worse then others. Meaning everyone knows cacg is conservative and will grade a point or 2 lower then ngc or pcgs but they “sell” for more compared to same grade by other third party companies. So the fees are cheaper and they sell for more what’s the catch, well the catch is your 65 will be a 63 ok a good day and a 62 on a normal day and a 61 on a bod day. Graded had a bad day your ms65 cc just got a wheel mark details grade , those die polishing lines that straight graded the last 10 coins are now wheel marks because my drive to work was bad etc. I digress. This coin got a freaking ms62 I’m 1000% sending it to another grading company I’m filming the entire process and CACG will be exposed. They are not worth the hype or your time, stick with pcgs. Let me know if this a 62 or what? I have cacg 63+ that look worst the this coin…. In photos and in person. We all know these cacg photos make the coin look its absolute worst too and I truly mean that, it’s great when buying because you see every single mark, the coins always look way better in person as your eyes can’t pick up all the details the photos do. Would love to know everyone’s opinion on this grade and cacg in general?
I’ve never cleaned or polished it, no idea about prior owners. Never been into coins so not sure how you judge condition on them accurately. Trying to see if I should sell it at gold price or if it has value as a collectible above that. Thanks for any advice!
got a good-details. damaged grade. i didnt send it in. do you think the slab affects value one way or another?
Long story short, my grandfather was a huge coin collector. I just sorted through roughly 100 pounds of coins (most of them retailing $20-50), with some gold and silver bullions here and there. Most of them are in sets, including mint proof sets from 1980-2011. Also, a buttload of wheat pennies (none in the coveted years unfortunately). I was able to record them all in a spreadsheet. I took them to a local coin shop but they were being really sketchy going back and forth on value, offering way under face value.
So is there/are there good online options for sales, potentially in bulk? My wife is losing her patience as these are taking up a ton of space in the apartment.
Thanks!
Can anyone help me with this coin? I wanted to know if it was worth having it graded.
I'm considering sending in the coin for reconsideration. I'd like to know what you think the grade is before I pull the trigger and try to get it upgraded. I've only sent in one Morgan for reconsideration in the past--it didn't get upgraded, but it also wasn't in a rattler.
EDIT: Pic with grade in the comments below. I won't spoil it up here. Anyway--Thank you all for the opinions! I doubt I'll ever crack this girl out of the rattler... I will go for a bean. We'll see...
Continuing the die error documentation project. This 1870 Indian Head cent has a multi-impression die clash on the reverse — meaning the obverse and reverse dies struck each other without a planchet between them, and they did it more than once.
Two separate transfer zones are visible:
The forehead and nose of the Indian portrait are clashed under the C in CENT
Feathers from the headdress appear inside the right wreath
Multiple clash impressions on a single die tell us the die pair kept colliding before the Mint caught the problem and replaced or resurfaced the dies. Every coin struck from this pair carries the evidence.
The 1870 Indian Head cent had a mintage of about 5.3 million. Mid-range year, but die clashes like this aren't mintage-dependent — they're production incidents. The standard references don't catalogue these multi-transfer variants, which is why NumisDex is building the record.
Not in any reference. Now catalogued.
Two separate pennies of course over two different years but why is the 58 waaay lighter than any other penny I've ever seen? I have a Lincoln cent book starting at 1941, im debating on slapping It in there as it has all uncirculated pennies. I just want to make sure im not the only one that thinks they look uncirculated.
Anyone interested in grading this for me? If you are local to Indianapolis Indiana please let me know. Thanks.
i will admit i was glad the coin came with an insert from the dealer where a previous owner purchased from, with the details as trying to figure out the mint mark vs assayer/mint master was confusing. pretty good condition. for 20$ im going to keep it
Continuing the die error documentation project. This 1865 Indian Head cent has two rim cuds on the reverse, one left of twelve o'clock and one right.
A rim cud forms when a section of the die edge fractures and separates completely. Once the die fragment is gone, planchet metal flows into the void during striking, creating a raised, featureless mass on the coin. Here, two separate fragments broke away on opposite sides of the same clock position.
This is also a Fancy 5 variety — the scarcer of two date logotypes for 1865. The Fancy 5 has tall, ornate serifs on the final digit, versus the more common Plain 5 with a shorter, simpler form.
Two cuds flanking the same position suggests the die was fracturing symmetrically — stress concentrating at the weakest point of the rim and cracking in both directions. It's a coin struck by a die in its final working stage.
Not in the standard references. Now catalogued.
One month before my dad passed away, he showed me a coin collection he inherited from his grandfather. I had never seen or heard about it before that moment.
Today I took the time with my mum to go through the collection. It consists of gold coins: 20 & 10 US Dollars, 20 Deutsche Marks, 10 Dutch Gulden, British Pounds and 10 French Francs.
We used AI to introduce us to the basics of coin collecting: looking for certain errors, special years, limited geographical editions,…
It was very exciting to look for these tiny details of where they were produced or if they had certain rare properties.
I thought it would be nice to share the shortlist that Claude gave us of interesting coins in terms of rarity:
**1. Germany — 20 Mark 1888, Friedrich III**
1888 is known as the “Year of the Three Emperors” (Dreikaiserjahr): Wilhelm I died in March, his son Friedrich III reigned for only 99 days before succumbing to cancer, and Wilhelm II then took the throne. Coins bearing Friedrich III’s portrait exist only with the 1888 date, making them the rarest and most sought-after issue in the entire Prussian 20 Mark series.
**2. Netherlands — 10 Gulden 1824-B, Willem I**
An early “young head” gold 10 gulden struck in Brussels while Belgium was still part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands (pre-1830 secession). Gold 10 gulden coins from before 1875 (Willem I, Willem II, and the earliest Willem III years) were struck in far smaller quantities than the later, massively-produced series, making them genuine collector’s pieces rather than simple bullion.
**3. United States — $20 Double Eagle, 1873-S**
Potentially the “Open 3” variety of this San Francisco-minted double eagle — a date/mintmark combination with two distinct varieties (Open 3 and Closed 3), where Open 3 is considerably scarcer, especially in higher grades. The exact variety attribution is subtle and would benefit from professional certification to confirm.
**4. France — 20 Francs “Cérès,” 1851**
Struck during the short-lived Second French Republic (1849–1852), before Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte restored the Empire and ended this design. The 1851 date is considered one of the scarcest years within this already brief Cérès series.
**Honorable Mentions**
\*\*• 20 Francs “Cérès,” 1850 (France)\*\* — Same short-lived republican design as the 1851; not as scarce a date, but shares the historical appeal of the series.
\*\*• 5 Francs Louis-Philippe I, 1833-W, Lille (France)\*\* — Struck at a smaller provincial mint (Lille) rather than the high-volume Paris mint, giving it a modest premium over silver value.
\*\*• $10 Liberty Eagle, 1893, Philadelphia (US)\*\* — A common-date issue, but worth noting since the Carson City version of this same year (1893-CC) was the final gold coinage ever struck at that mint and is exceptionally rare — a useful point of comparison.
We are looking to maybe get these graded, although it seems less straight-forward in Europe vs the US.
It also makes us wonder how my great-grandparents were as people. It seems less straight-forward to collect coins in those days, so they either must have had special intrest in these things, or maybe it was out of economical reasons?
We are already looking to plan a visit to a few fairs in Europe, just to get a better sense of this hobby and the stories these coins bring.
Hope to learn more about these coins from you all!
Greetings!
Bonjour,
Je suis commerçant et hier en voulant rendre la monnaie à un client, je suis tombé sur cette pièce dans la caisse.
J’ai bien sûr mis la pièce de côté pour éviter de la laisser en circulation.
J’ai conscience que cette pièce a été frappé de manière artisanale par des fanatiques mais je n’ai trouvé aucune référence sur internet. Aucun blog ou article qui relayerait des cas similaires.
Avez vous déjà vu cela ? J’avoue avoir été choqué en la découvrant.
Merci pour vos lumières.
A hammer, vise, flathead, and 10 minutes later, we got the 1852 Braided hair large cent out of the pcgs holder and straight into the album!
Howdy y'all. I'm helping sort through some coins and stumbled upon this one, the lines appear raised relief, not gouged in, and I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated! Cheers
Hey all, really new to collecting coins, even newer to Morgan’s. A few weeks ago I scored so decent looking Morgan’s from a pawnshop. Just now taking a closer look, and think I have som with VAM designation?
(Edit)
What I think I have it narrowed down to
1900-O VAM 23C?
1899-O VAM 25B?
Also do would these be worth the effort to have graded??