r/subaru

Seeing photos of the Levorg always sends me down the rabbit hole of Subaru market differences.

It’s still very obviously a Subaru, but stuff like the plate shape, rear bumper layout, reflectors, badging and little trim details make the whole car feel different depending on where it’s sold. The Levorg is a good example because from some angles it feels like the wagon version of everything a lot of us wish Subaru still leaned harder into.

I also think it’s funny how much the plate format changes the look of the rear end. A long JDM-style plate area or different export setup can make the same car look cleaner or a little more awkward depending on the market. Same basic Subaru DNA, but the vibe changes more than people expect.

Would you take a Levorg STI Sport over a WRX or Outback if Subaru offered it properly where you live? And in general, do you guys prefer the JDM look on Subarus or the export versions?

Hey y’all, this just happened this morning. I don’t know the name of the part but it’s definitely leaking coolant.

Just happened as I parked to bring breakfast to my family. Thankful this didn’t happen on the road 😅.

Question is, can I drive this to my mechanic? He’s 3 miles away. What kind of part is this? How much am I looking at for a repair?

My subie is a 2016 Forester 2.5i Limited with 105K. Any information would be helpful 🙏.

Edit: Thanks for all the comments! Calling my mechanic first thing in the AM to resolve it.

Wouldn’t be so bad, but I just lost power as well, whoop dee frikkin’ doo. Happy fourth everyone!

Hello,
I’ve been working on a driving app called Speedometer: Driving Tracker for a while, and it recently got approved for CarPlay in the Driving Task category.

That approval process is surprisingly strict - very limited UI, no custom buttons, and a strong focus on safety; so getting through it meant a lot.

The app originally started as a simple speedometer, but over time, I expanded it into something more like a driving companion. It tracks trips, shows analytics, and tries to make driving data more visual instead of just numbers.

Some things it currently supports:

• Trip tracking with detailed stats
• Route playback (including 3D-style views)
• Visual trip sharing
• Fuel, maintenance, and expense tracking
• Driving pattern insights and comparisons
• Video recording with speed + map overlays
• iCloud sync across devices and backup
• Privacy-focused (no ads or tracking)

The idea is to offer something beyond what most built-in dashboards show, while still working within CarPlay’s limitations.

Would love to hear any thoughts or feedback.

I'm the 2016 Forester, hope the Crosstrek and Impreza didn't mind me wiggling my way in! also happy 4th y'all.

So I recently swapped the broken transmission from my Subaru outback 2002 2.5L and I was reassured the rear differential matches with the new transmission since I am a bit skeptical as a whole I did a quick check on the transmission codes on their drive ratios also I tried to check the differential code for it to see what drive ratios it is but nothing on it I will attach pictures as well and here is the raw information

Factory transmission according to VIN number TZ1A4ZFCBA

The transmission that was replaced TZ1A4ZFABA-WJ

And the new transmission code TZ1A4ZFEAA-3M

The list I was referencing the numbers from lists the original transmission and the old transmission as a 4.444 but the new one as a 4.111 ratio

Now on paper that's a very big issue obviously but I've driven the car for about 400km since I got it I haven't noticed anything unusual a friend that is a mechanic suggested to me how to test it and it was to got to a empty parking lot and just rotated the steering wheel fully and with no gas to do a few circles in both directions that's where a mismatch will be the most apparent he mentioned symptoms like hopping skipping chirping jerking weird hum from the back of the car the car refusing to turn nothing like that the car didn't need any extra gas to keep turning no skidding of the tires no weird noises nothing like that so now I am really confused and I would love your opinions on the matter since I don't wanna say eh it's for fine and keep driving it until something serious happens and I also don't want to go and get my rear differential replaced if there is no need. Also while I was driving it on the road normally nothing weird would happen.

2017 2.5i at 124k miles…. Just today replaced my front brake pads and rotors and lubricated the slide pins and am having this intermittent grinding noise when driving/braking on the right side. Pitch/frequency of the grinding changes with speed.

I made sure to push the caliper pistons all the way back on both sides before putting the pads on the rotors. Backing plates are not touching the rotors. Any idea what the culprit is?

Also excuse the firework noises 😅

Just bought a 2025 forester. What is this?

2010 subaru legacy. Freon bottle said "see instructions". Pretty sure it's the one to the right where the low pressure line hooks up but I can't tell if it spinning or not.

Not really familiar with the Subaru platform. (coming from a 2015 Hyundai Sonata)

but I have a 2021 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0 Premium with just 35,000 miles on the ODO.

What are some things to lookout for with this car? And what are some routine maintenance tips for the vehicle?

My old 2015 Outback rusted out so I took the plunge and got my first brand new car, it’s a 2026 Crosstrek Premium with only 12 miles on it.

Anyone have kids and a dog with their ivory seats? How are they holding up?
I’m interested in a Subaru Ascent Limited, it’s a CPO with low mileage and priced well. The only thing keeping me from jumping in a sale are the ivory seats.
I have a 4 year old and a golden retriever so I’m worried about having an interior that isn’t black

Ty!!

I hit a deer (no human injuries) and my insurance company totaled my 2022 Forester. It was a great car and will be missed.

I'm back in the market now and looking for a deal. I wouldn't drive it at all in August and September and don't "need" it until early November. I'll likely finance the entire cost. Online I see 1.9% for 36 months or 2.9% for 75 months. These are solid rates and I'm wondering if I should just lock them in.

My questions are:

• would I be more likely to negotiate below MSRP closer to the end of the year when dealerships are making room for new 2027 stock?
• have there been better rates in the last few years?
• should I consider waiting for a 2027?
• anything else I should keep in mind?

sound will be louder on start, then dies down. it will get louder on rpm. Car will stall when flooring it. sounds like from the top front