ELI5: Election Mechanics/Procedures
Mike Lindell recently lost the GOP primary for governor in MN. In the week since, the news has reported than he is "refusing to concede." Why does it matter one way or another if a candidate concedes (or refuses to concede) a race? Is this just nonsense news?
I have a canoe and am planning to canoe one of the local MN DNR water trails, either Root, Zumbro, or Cannon.
I'm an experienced canoeist, but BWCA and Mississippi, not these rivers. Wondering if there are especially nice seconds my kids would appreciate on the Zumbro specifically. We'd be going downstream, 1 or 2 days.
Reference https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state-water-trails/minnesota-river/index.html
My home air conditioner isn't working. Humming noise from the capacitor and relay on the AC condenser unit. Condenser fan isn't running.
I think the problem is likely a failed starting capacitor on the condenser. Part number is A101147p03.
I don't see AC motor capacitors in Menards, Fleet Farm, and the ones on Home Depot's online catalog are all too small. Do I have to call a service tech or is there another retail place I should check?
Building a wood-fired backyard sauna. Today, while thinking about clearances I found a university extension website that suggested that the brick hearth under a woodstove should include a metal plate underneath the brick. I've never heard of this before and it seems odd.
Quote:
If the stove legs provide less than 6 inches of clearance, 2 to 4 inches
of hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation with a sheet of 24 gage
sheet metal between the floor and the masonry is recommended. Eight to ten
inch legs will provide more air space, and less heat will be transferred
to the floor. A 2-inch layer of sand or ashes laid in the bottom of the
stove will also help prevent overheating of the floor.
I've got a pile of old clay bricks and was planning to lay out a 40x48" brick pad over 1/2" Durarock concrete board. Subfloor is 5/8" plywood. Stove is 16"x16" and is fairly short, about 3" clearance from bottom of stove to floor.
Is metal under brick hearths common knowledge? The metal would be touching the brick mortar and plywood subfloor and would provide no radiation protection. Is the idea simply that it's spreading the heat out? I guess unpainted aluminum or galvanized steel trim coil would be the cheapest solution.
Update: it sounds like the fire risk under a brick hearth is pyrolisis of the subfloor (plywood). The brick gets hot, over time the plywood chars, and then after a few years the subfloor catches fire because it's all charcoal. Doesn't sound like a huge risk, but I think I'm going to use one of those hearth pads instead so I don't have to worry about an unlikely unknown. The metal plate referenced has lots of channels to allow convective airflow under the hot hearth. Seems like too much work to be worth it.
Building a wood-fired backyard sauna. Today, while thinking about clearances I found a university extension website that suggested that the brick hearth under a woodstove should include a metal plate underneath the brick. I've never heard of this before and it seems odd.
Source: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/FNR-100.html
Quote:
If the stove legs provide less than 6 inches of clearance, 2 to 4 inches
of hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation with a sheet of 24 gage
sheet metal between the floor and the masonry is recommended. Eight to ten
inch legs will provide more air space, and less heat will be transferred
to the floor. A 2-inch layer of sand or ashes laid in the bottom of the
stove will also help prevent overheating of the floor.
I've got a pile of old clay bricks and was planning to lay out a 40x48" brick pad over 1/2" Durarock concrete board. Subfloor is 5/8" plywood. Stove is 16"x16" and is fairly short, about 3" clearance from bottom of stove to floor.
Is metal under brick hearths common knowledge? The metal would be touching the brick mortar and plywood subfloor and would provide no radiation protection. Is the idea simply that it's spreading the heat out? I guess unpainted aluminum or galvanized steel trim coil would be the cheapest solution.
Update: it sounds like the fire risk under a brick hearth is pyrolisis of the subfloor (plywood). The brick gets hot, over time the plywood chars, and then after a few years the subfloor catches fire because it's all charcoal. Doesn't sound like a huge risk, but I think I'm going to use one of those hearth pads instead so I don't have to worry about an unlikely unknown. The metal plate referenced has lots of channels to allow convective airflow under the hot hearth. Seems like too much work to be worth it.