Hello! In the process of restoring an M3 and wanted to know if anyone recognized these oil leaks, or had a name for some of the seals I need to replace. I'm aware my valve cover is leaking (something I've already ordered). From these pictures, what else does it look like I need?
At my wit's end
Hey yall! Just past a month of ownership and my e brake isn't working properly.
At first, the button wouldn't reset. I'd push it down and it wouldn't decompress. It would just go further and further down. To fix this, I took the boot and handle off, and used a tiny screw driver to push the button out of the e brake assembly. It popped out, but I was able to get it back into place and functioning properly, at least for a few tests.
My issue now is, it will sometimes pop out of place, or it will revert back to being unresponsive until I pull it back out again. I combed the forums and people suggested to just replace the entire e brake assembly. Is that really necessary? I found a diagram of the assembly online, but I'm still confused
I can get the button to work, but it will always end up failing after a while. I'm hoping this is just a simple fix, maybe a new spring will do? I'd just like some insight before moving forward. I watched a video on an E46 handbrake repair, and it looks like there's supposed to be some kind of trigger that engages in the second pic? If there is, then mine must be missing.
I've seen people say 1 way, 2 way, and even a torson diff. What exactly did we get?
Left is the damaged coil. Right is a good one. The boot on the tip is ripped off, but how? 1998 BMW M3 S52B32
Hey all, just got a US spec M3 not too long ago. I've owned a lot of old cars, but one thing I'm not used to on this one is how hard it is to check the oil level on the dipstick. I drove the car around for about 2000 miles, but didn't notice any less oil on the dipstick for a while (T6 5W40 btw)
Anyways, today in the parking lot after leaving a store, I noticed the lifter tick was going crazy. I shut the car off and noticed almost nothing on the middle section of the dipstick. After freaking out a little, I topped her off as best as I could, read the dipstick, and drove off. No oil light ever came on and no loss of power/smoke/burning smell. The lifter tick was back after start up the second time, but it went away after a minute of driving.
Something to also mention. Just today, I started noticing stuttering/misfires at sub 2000 rpm. I think this is spark plug/coil related and I have them on order. Higher than 2000rpm pulls feel just like normal. Not sure if this is related.
I guess I'm making this post because I'm scared I damaged the car. Surely the oil pressure light would tell me if I was low on oil, right? Been loving owning this car, so anyone have any insight? Just hoping I didn't damage her
Also, what are these little bulb looking things? I found them loose inside the door. Any advice or help is appreciated!!
Hello, I'm in the market for one of these cars, and I have my eyes on a very beautiful example of an M3. The only caveat is that it is a convertible. What I would like to know, from people who have driven both, is the convertible actually so much worse than the coupe/sedan that it isn't even worth considering?
I have no problems buying a convertible. I think it's an excellent compromise for buying an older sports car that is typically raced, drifted, abused, etc, when you consider that a convertible is much more likely to be driven lightly and well cared for by the owner (at times). I understand that people don't like convertibles, but I have bought and own an RX7 convertible and a Miata without a hardtop of which I love both and wouldn't rather have any other way.
I've replaced a convertible top before, I've been caught out in the rain with the top down, I've had less than ideal weather seals while driving through a storm. None of that bothers me, I can deal with it. What would bother me is if the convertible was signficantly outclassed by it's coupe/sedan contemporaries in a spirited/performance setting. Obviously, the convertible won't set lap times as well as the others, stock for stock, but is it such a big difference that someone that enjoys an occasional spirited drive on a backroad will notice?
I love the E36 for the M50 motor and the power it puts down. I love the cars for their handling characteristics as well. To put it simply, does a ragtop ruin these cars in that regard, or will I absolutely still love and appreciate wringing out a convertible?
Looking at a pretty nice car. I want something to beat on and enjoy without feeling bad haha. Everything looked amazing until I saw underneath the chassis. Run it, orr?
Hey yall, I'm currently on a journey and just wanted some rotary expert opinions on how I'm taking care of my car. I'm just shy on my 3000 mile mark before my next oil change. I typically change my oil at the 2000 mile mark because I've read that by that point in your oil interval, there's typically quite a bit of fuel diluting your oil, which makes lubricating the apex seals worse. Since I change the oil so often, I don't premix unless I'm past my 2000 mile mark. Currently I've got synthetic 20w50 VR1 in my car and I'm premixing with a working OMP. When I do change my oil, I might not be able to source an OEM filter like I typically do, so will keeping the 3000 mile filter be okay
I guess my questions are, is my car alright? Is premixing a good antidote for my higher mileage oil change? Is it essential to change my filter every single time I change my oil, or can I get away with it this one time and change it when I do my next 2000 mile oil change? How bad is the fuel contamination on NA FCs actually? Should the synthetic last longer than conventional like it does on piston engines?
Sorry for all the questions, just a bit worried since this is the first time I've gone so far past my typical oil and filter change interval. Thank you for reading.