u/Agreeable_Visit9348

Alright, I think I've posted a previous version of these before but I can't remember. If I did, they were probably torn to shreds, so I've gone back to the drawing board.

Setup: Apple TV 4K source → WiiM Amp (power, EQ, room correction). Considered bi-amping with miniDSP 2x4 but wanted to keep things simple/cheap and retain full ATV remote control.

Drivers & Enclosures:

• Dayton PS180-8 in a ~0.2 ft³ (350 in³) sealed enclosure. Planning butyl mat on the walls + polyfill, which should bring Qtc from around 0.8 (unfilled) down to ~0.72-0.75.
• Peerless BC25SC08-04 in a tiny ~0.012 ft³ (21 in³) enclosure with a 20mm negative offset, ~5.95" CTC.

Crossover: External LR4 around 2500 Hz (approximations from manufacturer data) 750 µH / 12 µF on woofer, 330 µH / 22 µF on tweeter. Might measure and refine once it's all together depending how much time it takes off my life.

Placement: Speakers ~76" apart, 12–18" from front wall, tweeters at/near ear level (wall mount or stands, wife's choice). Listening ~12 ft back on the couch.

This is mainly for streaming TV/movies through the Apple TV plus general music around the house — not a dedicated critical listening setup. Hoping room gain gets these decent without a sub, but I'm realistic — should still be a big upgrade over our old $250 soundbar/sub combo after 4 years.

Printed in PETG or PETG-CF (6–8 perimeters, 40% gyroid infill, heat-set inserts). Final finish: prime/paint/clear. Half-ass modeled the whole living room for scale.

Questions, comments, concerns welcome, just don't be a jerk. Thanks!

Yes, I used AI to write this, I just typed whatever came to mind and it was a jumbled mess. Me no good words, me good build stuff. Fight me.

Alright, I think I've posted a previous version of these before but I can't remember. If I did, they were probably torn to shreds, so I've gone back to the drawing board.

Setup: Apple TV 4K source → WiiM Amp (power, EQ, room correction). Considered bi-amping with miniDSP 2x4 but wanted to keep things simple/cheap and retain full ATV remote control.

Drivers & Enclosures:

• Dayton PS180-8 in a ~0.2 ft³ (350 in³) sealed enclosure. Planning butyl mat on the walls + polyfill, which should bring Qtc from around 0.8 (unfilled) down to ~0.72-0.75.
• Peerless BC25SC08-04 in a tiny ~0.012 ft³ (21 in³) enclosure with a 20mm negative offset, ~5.95" CTC.

Crossover: External LR4 around 2500 Hz (approximations from manufacturer data) 750 µH / 12 µF on woofer, 330 µH / 22 µF on tweeter. Might measure and refine once it's all together depending how much time it takes off my life.

Placement: Speakers ~76" apart, 12–18" from front wall, tweeters at/near ear level (wall mount or stands, wife's choice). Listening ~12 ft back on the couch.

This is mainly for streaming TV/movies through the Apple TV plus general music around the house — not a dedicated critical listening setup. Hoping room gain gets these decent without a sub, but I'm realistic — should still be a big upgrade over our old $250 soundbar/sub combo after 4 years.

Printed in PETG or PETG-CF (6–8 perimeters, 40% gyroid infill, heat-set inserts). Final finish: prime/paint/clear. Half-ass modeled the whole living room for scale.

Questions, comments, concerns welcome, just don't be a jerk. Thanks!

Yes, I used AI to write this, I just typed whatever came to mind and it was a jumbled mess. Me no good words, me good build stuff. Fight me.

Alright, I think I've posted a previous version of these before but I can't remember. If I did, they were probably torn to shreds, so I've gone back to the drawing board.

Setup: Apple TV 4K source → WiiM Amp (power, EQ, room correction). Considered bi-amping with miniDSP 2x4 but wanted to keep things simple/cheap and retain full ATV remote control.

Drivers & Enclosures:

• Dayton PS180-8 in a ~0.2 ft³ (350 in³) sealed enclosure. Planning butyl mat on the walls + polyfill, which should bring Qtc from around 0.8 (unfilled) down to ~0.72-0.75.
• Peerless BC25SC08-04 in a tiny ~0.012 ft³ (21 in³) enclosure with a 20mm negative offset, ~5.95" CTC.

Crossover: External LR4 around 2500 Hz (approximations from manufacturer data) 750 µH / 12 µF on woofer, 330 µH / 22 µF on tweeter. Might measure and refine once it's all together depending how much time it takes off my life.

Placement: Speakers ~76" apart, 12–18" from front wall, tweeters at/near ear level (wall mount or stands, wife's choice). Listening ~12 ft back on the couch.

This is mainly for streaming TV/movies through the Apple TV plus general music around the house — not a dedicated critical listening setup. Hoping room gain gets these decent without a sub, but I'm realistic — should still be a big upgrade over our old $250 soundbar/sub combo after 4 years.

Printed in PETG or PETG-CF (6–8 perimeters, 40% gyroid infill, heat-set inserts). Final finish: prime/paint/clear. Half-ass modeled the whole living room for scale.

Questions, comments, concerns welcome, just don't be a jerk. Thanks!

Yes, I used AI to write this, I just typed whatever came to mind and it was a jumbled mess. Fight me.

I got the itch to 3D print some speakers to replace our budget LG soundbar and I wanted something that the wife wouldn't hate BUT I've never built a speaker before so you could say I have no idea what I am doing. Theyll be in our small living room, used mostly for TV and music. Dayton Audio PS180-8, 9.9" OD, 2.3" cap removed, .45" wall thickness, 6 walls, 40% gyroid infill. Net volume should be around .19cuft. I planned on running it with a AVA3.1, if they sound good, I will design a center channel and subwoofer to pair with them. I ran it through chatgpt and it didn't give me any red flags, it kinda hyped them up more than expected but I wanted to check here before I commit to days of printing and hundreds of dollars in parts. I think I've given all the info needed, if not, let me know and I'll try my best.