r/diysound

After finishing and refining my previously posted balanced headphone amp i added board after board to someday finally get my DIY-dream-modular-headphone-amp.

Top left is my Audio-Input-Board which immensely simplifies prototyping with differential audio signals. Building the clip-on-cables is a bit of a hassle, but i dont't want to miss the simplicity of just hooking up a DAC or any other signal to whatever PCB i want.

On its right is a VU-meter driver, which accepts single ended and differential signals (all boards you can see do that). This is just for fun, but after calibration it definately is a dependable measurement instrument. Purely optional, but beautiful.

Bottom left is my botched balanced relay attenuator. After using a single ended one once on a commercial amp i fell in love with the engineering, feeling and working principle. It, too, accepts stereo differential or quad single ended signals. Currently it is operatied via CMD on PC or two buttons on the PCB. I originally designed the board with an ATTINY16 uC, but ditched them after realizing that i might want to focus on STM32 for the way forward. Thats why the addon board is on top. It works suprisingly good, no loud pops, only slight satic when many relays change. But this is solvable with delayed relay actuation i think. To prevent loud pops all the relays that need to be turned on turn on before others are switched off. So that in the worst case the signal is attenuated more instead of not at all.

Bottom right is the amp mentioned above.

The VU-Driver and the attenuator will get GitHub repos in the future to share my learnings and give back to the incredible open source (or semi) diy-audio community.
I also sell some of those boards on my Tindie page, DM me if you want a link.

The next step is a control board for I/O, controlling the volume with a pot or encoder and power control. After that all these boards get condensed into one and get a nice case. But the main amp-board will always be interchangable to satisfy my need to tinker with it.

Using this tin box, a Bluetooth module, two speakers from old Bluetooth earbuds and a vape battery, I managed to make this novelty stereo speaker, and it charges through a usb C port.
It’s not a hifi system, but it’s a conversation piece.

Hello, hope this is the right place to ask this.

I found some old decrepit speakers in a shed, the bass reflex cabinets are huge and in a gruesome condition but the drivers were protected and are in a splendid condition. So I just got the board with the drivers and took them home. At home I tested the drivers and they work.

Included a picture of the magnet for identification purposes as well as a datasheet i found. According to someone in a forum they measure (avg) like this :

Phillips(Belgium) 12202/M8

Re.........7.49 Ohms

Fs........43.74 Hz

Qts........0.456

Qes........0.55

Qms........2.665

Le..........0.189 mH (10k)

Mms.......35.19 g

Vas........135.7 L

This kinda tickles my fancy so I wanna try to build my first selfmade hifi speakers with them if that is possible. Got lots of wood foam etc laying around.

The drivers are in very good condition and according to some folks in the Internet they sound pretty good but are geared mainly as midwoofer, which i noted in testing as well,as the bass is very lackluster. That makes me biassed towards throwing them in some kind of backloaded Horn speaker with an external horn tweeter to get the most of of them. But yeah, what do I know, the only speakers I've build until now are for PA purposes and hifi speakers for inside a room or even designing own cabinets are different beasts. So maybe you can help me:

What kind of speaker would you throw them into, are there plans I could utilize that would fit this thing?

Thanks in advance!

I want to add two speakers for surround sound but I don’t have much space behind our couch. What would be the best placement for speakers? I was thinking of mounting to the wall on the far left by the fire place & on the right on that little portion that sticks out but idk if speakers should be at the sides of our heads or behind firing to the back of our heads

Thought this sub would appreciate it

1. Jeff Bagby Helios
2. An attempt at Curt Campbell's Uluwatu with SB15NRX
3. Altec 604E into a 5fu ft pro audio cabinet
4. Jeff Bagby Revolution
5. Mad 3 way diy for inlaws using JBL M2, 2435HPL be compression driver, Acoustic Elegance TD15M-8Apollo and SBP12-8Apollo (B&W 684 for scale)
6. 2 way version of 5
7. Curt Campbell's Uluwatu proper, these had the fastest thumpest mid bass ever! Sadly lacked refinement
8. Open baffle with Coral Flat 6 & Acoustic Elegance Dipole15
9. SB Kalasan satori bookshelf on top of a TQWP for AudioTechnology 12"
10. Vertical laminated boathull design for Scanspeak 990000 & 15W8530K00
11. John K's Nao Note II
12. Zaph's Waveguide TMM 2.5 way (and Linkwitz Pluto)
13. SEOS15 w/ B&C DE250 and Acoustic Elegance TD15M using the xsim author's design
14. SB Kalasan again on top of a nice cherry cabinet with two Acoustic TD10M-8Apollo
15. Beyma TPL150H with Acoustic Elegance TD6M open baffle matched the 14's woofer modules
16. Troels Gravasen's Jenzen Seas ER for in laws
17. My own pair of Jenzen Seas ER
18. Curt Campbell/Jim Holtz's Statements

My oldest daughter wanted a speaker built out of a tire, specifically.

I present to you figure 1.

Some of you may remember my DIY diffuser project I posted about, some months ago (https://www.reddit.com/r/diysound/s/Eyo5JRgpXK).

The Listening Lounge has evolved quite a bit since then. I first added two 6" bass absorbers and three diffusers (all from GIK) on the back wall.

To further help reduce first reflections hitting me from the back wall, I also pulled the sofa forward about two feet, which helped a lot.

I then realized that it created a rather big gap between the sofa and the room treatments, so I figured why not fill up the gap with a sofa table?

So, I learned how to make walnut/epoxy river tables from raw slabs and built me two - one 7' sofa table and an end-table, both in the same style with a blue "river" that also incorporates LEDs.

Very happy with those, and learned a lot from those projects. (Wife was slightly less excited about surrendering one of our garage bays-turned-wood-workshop, but sometimes the end justifies the means and now she's happy. 😁)

I then went ahead and built a coffee table (also walnut+epoxy, but not with "river") This sounded like a great idea until Wife pointed out that "we already have all the coffee tables we need." OK, so what now?

After some thinking I decided to turn it into a back-lit piece of wall art, and that's where we are at now.

All in all, three very fun projects where I learned a whole lot more about woodworking and not least epoxy, beyond what I already learned from the diffuser project.

🕺

So this is a concept for a high current output stage for a amplifier, not sure what to do for biasing it properly though, so would love some feedback on this.

MPa Sound System: Discs (Tokyo)

For this project, the starting point emerged through the perspective of PLASTICPRODUCT director Mincheol Seo, reconsidering the sound system not simply as a device, but as a structure that transforms how sound is experienced within a space.

Built by PLASTICPRODUCT (MPa), the system became a physical environment where sound could move across objects, garments, and the body itself. On top of this structure, VQ performed live — generating, recording, and reconstructing sounds in real time through friction, vibration, and movement.

Rather than presenting a fixed performance, the project focused on creating a different way of listening and participating within the space.

Hey everyone. I have this unit in my car already wired and it is old, big and boxy. I don’t want anything to blow the doors off my car. I just like something to add some good solid bass to my music.

Question is, what can I “plug and play” with the current wiring? It’s a 10 inch Kicker powered subwoofer. Could I get a Hideaway 12” (51HS12). It looks like the same connector, but would I need to worry about a larger gauge wiring being put in?

Also, any other recommendations on other products that use the same connector would be awesome. Nt sure if they make them or if this a Kicker only connector.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

Sorry for dirty room but You get the point . Running a 800w amp double channel . Im pretty sure You can see what brand and model these are . I wanted to know If they are reliable or should i ne careful with them . Got these for 10 bucks there are 2(was it a good buy can anyone Tell me ?)

Ho un box sigillato che ha un volume interno di circa 35~36 litri (senza considerare lo spazio occupato dalle imbottiture fonoassorbenti) pronto per essere utilizzato con un subwoofer 10"/ø250 mm che verrà collegato ad un amplificatore 2.1 ZKHT21.

Devo scegliere in quale posizione del pannello frontale del box, fatto in MDF spessore 20 mm, montare il driver che mi hanno regalato (datasheet nelle immagini).

Nel disegno allegato ho riportato quattro possibili posizioni di montaggio di un subwoofer ø250 mm 10'' sul pannello frontale, aggiungendo delle misure PURAMENTE ESEMPLIFICATIVE:

• opzione A → perfettamente al centro del pannello;

• opzione B → spostato solo verticalmente;

• opzione C → spostato solo orizzontalmente;

• opzione D → spostato sia verticalmente sia orizzontalmente.

Le domande sono le seguenti:

1. quale opzione di montaggio è la migliore considerando il mio box e il mio subwoofer?

2. Nel caso in cui la posizione A, ossia perfettamente al centro del pannello non fosse lo scenario migliore, di quanto dovrei spostare il subwoofer ed in che direzione?

3. Quali materiali fonoassorbenti mi consigliate di utilizzare, puri o combinati, fra questi di cui sono già in possesso: Viledon semipressato spessore 20 mm, gommapiuma bugnata spessore 30 mm, ovatta di poliestere?

Ringrazio anticipatamente tutti coloro che sapranno aiutarmi.

They were my stepdad's, but he passed away a year ago. My Mom doesn't want them, and said I could have them after I find her something more modern.

The tweeters don't work, and I'm not too sure about the lower speaker. But back in the day they sounded great. I'm thinking it shouldn't cost too much to restore them, but I really have no idea since I haven't even started to look into it yet.

Any suggestions on what to buy/where to look?

Thanks.