I moved into a house that has integrated speakers and need some advice on the best way to control them. Is this something I need an amp for?

I'm clueless on this stuff so hoping for some advice on a basic level. What type of equipment is best? I'd like to be able to control using my phone.

I'd also like to know if I can control speakers individually or is this a case of all are on or off simultaneously.

This photo is the cables to connect to.

I have a Adam Audio T10s sub. I put it on a nice foam pad and that pad on a wooden stand with spikes. Also there are small legs on the sub. But raising it that much makes the sub stand too close to the table and even closer to the cable management box (5 cm away).

- Is the sub being too close to the table and the box bad? Will it make it too boomy?

- Should I take away the pad or the stand?

- Should I take off the legs on the sub?

Would appreciate any help.

I have made a sound analyzer app for ios and android, it is free / has a pro IAP version as well. Hope it helps to analyze your sound systems!

https://www.otsukare.se/spectralscan

Quite a bit of time has passed since then, but I decided to share my DIY project here after all.
I chose a somewhat unconventional amplifier design featuring inductive compensation. I was curious to hear how it would sound. There were challenges regarding high sensitivity to high-frequency interference, and the circuit was prone to oscillation.
The problem was resolved by connecting an active volume control; it turned out that the FET input stage does not tolerate being left open.
Once everything was up and running after debugging, I decided to put it all in a case, and then decided to add a spectrum analyzer for visual appeal.Once everything was up and running after debugging, I decided to put it all in a case, and then decided to add a spectrum analyzer for visual appeal.

I got these two Yamaha speakers and from what I’ve learned I need a powered PA system? What’s a good budget PA system one that would work with these? I would probably only use these for band practice for our microphones

Hey guys,

Wanted to share a project I just wrapped up as i think DML technology is completely overlooked for cheap speakers with insane reproduction qualities when paired with the right sub. This is version 1 which was more of a proof of concept but I'm still more than happy with the results. If you are interested in reading more or even build a pair yourself you can find the full project report where I explain my design philosophy, the detailed build plan, calculations, measurements, XO design and listening impressions in the link i posted below.

The main goal with this build was to see if I could get a genuinely natural, "in the room" presence for acoustic instruments like guitars, violins, and vocals. My idea was to match the physical way these instruments produce sound with the operating principle of the speaker itself. Instead of forcing a rigid cone to move like a piston, my DML uses a light wooden structure, which feels way closer to how a real instrument works.

Here is a quick look at how I tried to lean into that instrument concept:

• The Shellac Treatment: I used 2 mm birch aircraft plywood (35x50 cm) driven by a pair of Xcite XT32-4. To balance out the lack of edge damping, I finished the panels with four coats of blonde shellac using a traditional French polish pad. The goal was to borrow from violin craftsmanship, introducing internal material damping through the wood grain to smooth out high frequency harshness naturally.
• Zero Edge Damping: I went with a completely free suspended setup, hanging the panels from solid pine frames using 0.3 mm fluorocarbon fishing line. I wanted to avoid edge loading or choking the boundary energy.
• Exciter Placement: To avoid hitting the nodal lines of dominant low order bending modes, the exciter is glued precisely at 3/7 x 4/9 from the top inner corner (more on this in the doc).

For the low end, I’m running them with a dual 12' (SB acoustics sb34swpl76-4) sealed sub, crossing over electronically at 180 Hz (24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley) via DSP(way too high for the sub). Because of the panel's inherent dipole phase lead, I dialed in about 5.25 ms of delay on the tops to get them to sum properly, and the acoustic crossover seems to be locking in.

If you can live with the lower mid compromise, which is also dissected thoroughly in the doc, the spatial presentation is stunning. On acoustic tracks, jazz, and vocals, the panels completely disappear. The directivity stays nearly uniform out to 90° and beyond, creating this massive, diffuse, 3D cloud of sound rather than beaming music at your face. Transients are lightning fast.

Would be glad for any feedback, tips or maybe critique on some of the measurement methodologies and mathematical reasoning as I'm in no way qualified for any of this, hope you enjoy the read

Cheers (:

here you can find the full documentation file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10DS4ADZrWWLcUxsUpfyRiDSD5kZAen7v/view?usp=sharing

EDIT: I uploaded two videos showcasing the speakers here(I hope this is allowed) CAUTION this was recorded with my phone: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p2z1qkNnS65w76PlD3ZCu5nl7TbvRWDh

I built a 15in Alibaba subwoofer shipped to the uk for approximately £150. Plus £25 MDF. Shipping was slow but was on time.

Enclosure is a 3cube slot port tuned to 35hz. Running it on a crown xls1502 bridged. It rumbles.

Need to finish off the enclosure. Not sure how yet. Might black ash vinyl wrap it.

I only bought it to see if it'll be any good. So far quite impressed.

Was fun to build and run a 15. So heavy.😳

Bought a house with this mess in the unfinished part of the basement. I don’t know a thing about home audio or wiring. There are like 6 speakers in the ceilings throughout the house. Some of the wires are just dangling near it. I’m guessing (from my crappy research) that I need to buy some sort of amplifier and plug it into the input? There’s 3 sets of wires dangling near it. Any chance one of those goes in the input?

I’ve done a lot of tinkering with speakers and sound systems but I’ve always been able to connect them to an amp or radio so is this like a problem that it’s not connected to that

Alright, I think I've posted a previous version of these before but I can't remember. If I did, they were probably torn to shreds, so I've gone back to the drawing board.

Setup: Apple TV 4K source → WiiM Amp (power, EQ, room correction). Considered bi-amping with miniDSP 2x4 but wanted to keep things simple/cheap and retain full ATV remote control.

Drivers & Enclosures:

• Dayton PS180-8 in a ~0.2 ft³ (350 in³) sealed enclosure. Planning butyl mat on the walls + polyfill, which should bring Qtc from around 0.8 (unfilled) down to ~0.72-0.75.
• Peerless BC25SC08-04 in a tiny ~0.012 ft³ (21 in³) enclosure with a 20mm negative offset, ~5.95" CTC.

Crossover: External LR4 around 2500 Hz (approximations from manufacturer data) 750 µH / 12 µF on woofer, 330 µH / 22 µF on tweeter. Might measure and refine once it's all together depending how much time it takes off my life.

Placement: Speakers ~76" apart, 12–18" from front wall, tweeters at/near ear level (wall mount or stands, wife's choice). Listening ~12 ft back on the couch.

This is mainly for streaming TV/movies through the Apple TV plus general music around the house — not a dedicated critical listening setup. Hoping room gain gets these decent without a sub, but I'm realistic — should still be a big upgrade over our old $250 soundbar/sub combo after 4 years.

Printed in PETG or PETG-CF (6–8 perimeters, 40% gyroid infill, heat-set inserts). Final finish: prime/paint/clear. Half-ass modeled the whole living room for scale.

Questions, comments, concerns welcome, just don't be a jerk. Thanks!

Yes, I used AI to write this, I just typed whatever came to mind and it was a jumbled mess. Me no good words, me good build stuff. Fight me.

Hey all!

Working on a new platform to track driver specs and price drops. Mainly EU/UK focused for now.

Some examples:

B&C 18SW100 for £235 https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=BAC18SW100A

B&C 5FG44 for £38 https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=BAC5FG44B

FaitalPro 8PR200 for £73.79 https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=FTP8PR200AP

FaitalPro W8N8-150 for £55 https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=FTPW8N8150AP

Join the alpha if you're interested. Tracking >2000 drivers so far and actively adding more weekly.

bits.00aud.io

Hi everyone I’m fairly new to car audio and I’ve got a 10 inch alpine type e and the bass just isn’t hitting. The box I have in the moment is the right size it should be but it’s sealed. Does anyone recommend me to get a ported box or anyone have a diagram for me to build one. It’s in a Chevrolet spark so as you can tell the box can’t be too big as it’s a spare tyre boot build. Thanks

Hey! After years of working with WinISD and getting frustrated every time I tried to add a new driver, I decided to build a convenient browser-based tool for simulating speakers using Thiele/Small parameters. I’m still actively developing the website, but I wanted to share my progress and invite people to try it out.

The website is meant to make it quick and easy to fiddle around with drivers and cabinet parameters, compare different enclosure alignments, and see how TS parameters affect the predicted response before building anything. The mobile version works great too!

May website is called Echohead-Cabio. Please try it out and leave some Feedback. It is much appreciated! Its free without adds and always will be.

Features already present:

- Driver library, plus web scraping for quickly adding new Drivers

- Enclosure simulation: sealed, vented, passive radiator, 4th and 6th order bandpass

- Parameter simulations: SPL, impedance, cone excursion, port velocity, PR excursion, phase, and group delay

I’ve just launched the public beta of RoomSound Setup, a web app/PWA designed to help home theater and soundbar users configure their room more accurately.
The app uses real room measurements, equipment selection, a 2D room layout, sound diagnosis and setup recommendations to help users improve their setup.

You can try it here:

https://roomsoundsetup.app

Current features include:
Demo rooms
Manual equipment setup
Equipment finder
Subwoofer placement guidance
Saved configurations
PDF reports
Light and dark mode
Multiple languages
This is still a beta, so feedback is very welcome.
If you test it, I’d love to know your system model, room size and what you think should be improved.

#HomeTheater #Soundbar #RoomAcoustics #Subwoofer #AudioSetup #PWA #BetaTesting