

Made this for a friend using Chroma Canvas. I can't believe how good it turned out!
P1S, 0.2 mm nozzle
Filaments are Inland PLA+ Black, White, True Red, and Bambu PLA Basic Red


P1S, 0.2 mm nozzle
Filaments are Inland PLA+ Black, White, True Red, and Bambu PLA Basic Red
I tried to Ecosia it but just kept getting results that modded Cyberpunk 2077 vehicles into GTA V.
I'm new to DIY electronics apart from circuit boards and kind of out of my depth with my current project.
I want to add an LED strip to my 3D printer, plugged in using an internal USB port. The LED strip has a connected controller that allows you to increase/decrease brightness. It's bulky and I want to make something similar small enough to fit through a top hole on my printer.
I found PWM modules, but I don't want the LEDs to flicker, even if it's not perceptible to humans. Just a personal thing.
I found three-position rocker switches, too, and ideally the 'I' position would be for half brightness and the 'II' position would be for full brightness, but that seems like it'll require something extra and I dont know what.
I'm willing to solder just a regular ol' potentiometer, or for the rocker switch, but I don't suppose there's a solderless module out there that's exactly what I'm looking for?
P1S, 0.2 mm nozzle, PLA, Bambu Studio
65° bed, 220° nozzle
Solid infill speed is 80 mm²/s
My last post on here was about these ridges forming on top of perfectly smooth layers. It was suggested this is due to overextrusion. I lowered the flow rate by 0.02 (see the second picture to confirm this is underextruding, the dark spots are gaps between the lines), but it's still happening and these are the tallest blobs yet.
The ridges never happened on any of my smaller-scale test prints. I'm using the correct bed preset and am auto-leveling before prints. This seems to only occur toward the front left of my print bed. The blobs seem to appear out of nowhere.
I've spent two weeks making adjustments to try to get this to print successfully and am just about ready to throw in the towel. What should I do?
Printing PLA with a 0.2 mm nozzle (has to be 0.2 for highly detailed upper layers) using my P1S. This is happening with the third layer on top of a perfectly smooth previous layer.
In earlier attempts, I figured this was due to thermal runaway because removing the top and leaving the door open fixed the issue. My flow ratio is calibrated and the bed was auto-leveled just before. I printed the first layer with a little higher flow for better adhesion. I'm using 65° for the first layer for better adhesion as well but lowered it to 60° for all other layers. The printing speed is capped at 82 mm²/s due to the max flow rate. Also, the print temp is 220°.
This print has to survive 13 hours of solid layers before it finally starts printing a design on top. What can I do to prevent this next attempt? I'm afraid it'll build up.
The images are of a 3D model but this makes for better reference photos and I'm 95% sure it uses the same typefaces. I mostly care about the font used in the first image.
It's bothering me that they didn't outline the Y so the acronym is KAWOS instead >:(
Printer: Bambu Lab P1S, 0.2 mm nozzle
Filament: Bambu PETG Basic, 255°C (ik it's high for PETG but the upper recommendation is 270), 0.95 flow ratio, 1 mm³/s volumetric limit, 0.4 mm retraction
This is a test piece for a larger print that's meant to look like a vinyl record. I was hoping I could achieve a shiny, smooth surface with Archimedean cords to look like grooves. I did smaller tests where I tweaked the top surface speed and top surface flow rates but haven't gotten any better results.
Is there anything else I can try, or maybe another filament? I chose PETG over PLA hoping for a shiny surface and I'd very much rather not use silk PLA.