I was so excited to get my socket set inserts and mount them to the side of my rolling drawer. But it rubs on the wheels…
I don’t have a packout stack with rails to put on them and my current set up is vacuum, ammo box and structured toolbag…
I got the rolling drawer and I love it. I put my vacuum, ammo box packout and my structured tote bag on top.
And I got a slim organizer for my wire terminals, and two of the small slim organizers for my ratchet set and impact set but it started to get a little unstable
So I bought the tool box rack packout plate so I can put my sockets/ratchet sets on the side…
BUT the bottom of the pack outs rub on the wheel….i don’t use a bigger packout with rails on top so i was pretty happy when i got the m18 battery tool box rack and wanted more side storage. Now im sure of what to do with the packout plate as the only other thing I have is my magnet tray
I’m going to be running 3 wires from each pressure transducer to the VFDs below. I was going to use 1/2” liquidtight non metallic conduit.
I was trying to find information online, I’m reading that if it exceeds 6 feet it must be fastened within 12 inches of the junction box. I don’t think I’ll be exceeding 6 feet. Do I still need to fasten it to the wall? And I’m worried about the 180 bend to the bottom knock out. Should I be looking for connectors that will help me make that transition have less strain on the conduit?
Thank you for the advice.
Hello. Im installing an industrial washing machine tomorrow.
I’m always looking to do things the right way or improve what I do already.
It’s a Milnor washer, roughly 1,148lbs net weight. Extraction forces at 400g. No pedestal, mounting to floor with 1” grout bearing platform.
Using Cement all rapid set as we need to be done with anchoring day off.
Now from what I can gather, we’re supposed to roughen the concrete surface for grouting especially with the thickness and load the machine will have during operation. I got a bushing tool but reading API 686 it says do not use a bushing tool… from what I can gather a CSP 6-9 is desired for this type of application.
So my question is, is the bushing tool going to be okay to use and if not what would you recommend for a tool to create the correct concrete surface profile for the grout and application?
I’m installing industrial washing machines tomorrow. I’ve done multiple of these before but I’m always looking to do things better. The grout will be 1” thick, using Cement All Rapid Set.
I bought a bushing attachment for my roto hammer, but that was before I saw that API 686 surface prep highly recommends “not” to use a bushing tool because it can cause micro fractures or bruising of the concrete.
From what I can gather, for a cementitious grout bearing platform for rotating machinery, a CSP of 6-9 is desired. Should I return this tool or just use it lightly to create the surface profile that’s desired?
If I am going to return it, what’s recommended to use instead?
Thank you for any insight and advice.
I got this tool late last year for a random polishing job I needed to do for a really picky customer. It was the only thing I could find that would do what I needed to do.(Using very fine and ultra fine Roloc discs to blend and polish stainless steel.)
The customer ended up not liking the work I had done.. I bought probably $200 worth of discs in 2” and 3” sizes….
Kept trying to find attachments that would help me in my job, finally found some decent wire wheels from Dewalt that kicked ass. Only thing is that the bigger 3” wheel vibrates on higher speed, but anything past setting 1 is too fast anyway.
Found some flap discs and flap drums at a specialty store. Loves those, working fantastic. Been trying to find any excuse to use this tool now.
Recently we had a big bearing replacement job to do on a washer, but the last time this job was done someone had sheared a bolt off in the pulley where we attach our hydraulic ram…
So I picked up some expensive carbide burrs double cut.
I used this thing for over an hour, with minimal breaks in between…. Went through two fully charged 5.0ah HO batteries. Not once did it cut out on me. Max speed setting 4. My damn forearm was numb afterwards. But it honed out this hardened steel bolt probably about 2-3” inside the bolt hole with NO problem.
This has quickly became my most useful and favorite tool, this thing kicks so much ass.
Before i would use wire wheels on my m12 hammer drill and it would cut off constantly and overheat. Now I use the die grinder clearing old permatex off stainless steel in half the time.
If anyone’s on the fence about getting this die grinder, I would highly recommend it.
The next attachments I’m looking for are the Roloc brushes for something less aggressive than wire wheels. And probably going to make up a huge order on empire abrasives to replenish the stuff I’ve used
I really liked using my Klein tradesman pro rolling tool bag, the pouches are awesome. It was a hand me down from a coworker when I started at my job.
But I started doing a lot of PMs at work and lugging all my shit bungee corded to the top was getting exhausting.
Just used this stack today and it was fantastic using my vacuum from the stack, keeping all my spray cans, Loctite and silicone in the ammo can. My grease guns rags and other stuff in the rolling drawer. I’m definitely going to have to reorganize things a bit better but ergonomically it is so much better on my back. I can throw my backpack on there and just unzip it and work from there. It’s a lot sturdier and balanced in the picture and the effort to take it from the van is far less than my previous set up.
Got the M18 battery mount, ammo can and rolling drawer for $276 including tax.
Our apartment complex power went out last night at 3 am. LADWP says 182 customers are affected. Apparently they still don’t have any idea why it’s out and estimated repair time keeps getting pushed back. Rep said 7 PM but now pushed back. Website says they’re not even dispatched for the Van Nuys area yet and repair time says 1030 tonight…