u/AwfulAwful80

Tonight, at 47k miles, I changed my spark plugs & Boots using Motorcraft OEM parts.

Got it all back together, it felt too easy lol. I researched it prior to doing it, reading reddit and forums just to make sure there weren't any special steps, and it was all pretty straightforward. But ONE thing is bugging me now: I put all new coil boots on (again, OEM Motorcraft). When I put the coils back on the engine, was I supposed to feel anything, like a "click" or something when putting them back on the spark plugs? I just kinda pushed them down so the coil was close to the bolt hole, and then tightened the coil back down. I didn't necessarily feel a "click" or any kind of bump when pushing them back on.

Truck runs great of course, it ran great before. The plugs didn't look terrible and the gaps were still .030. But now Im wondering if I should remove all the coils again and push them back on until I feel a click or something.... ? Help me regain my sanity here. lol

My 2023 TRD ORP 25k miles appears to be dripping from the transfer case onto my driveway. Was my truck built on a Friday or something lol I’ve never heard of this issue before. It’s a Costco crawler for what ifs worth, bone stock. The only time it’s been off road is when I pull onto the shoulder when an emergency vehicle is going by.

Dropped off at the dealer today, thankfully under factory warranty still. Can I get some reassurance here? Anyone else having leaks?

2016 Whirlpool Duet Family "Load and Go" (automatic detergent dispensing)

Model # WFW92HEFC

Machine works great, I have kept up maintenance (cleaning drain pump filter, keeping seal and detergent tray clean of mold/buildup) however it has stopped dispensing detergent completely.
What I have done so far: Purchased a new OEM Whirlpool detergent reservoir. No change. Cleaned out the drawer, which I do probably every 1-2-3 months, it was clean but did it again anyways. Load and Go IS illuminated And when I take the drawer out and put it back in, it chimes and recognizes the drawer is in or out. Additionally, it acknowledges that it is NOT out of detergent. I took the top lid of the washer off, and started a cycle, the little arm that goes from 1-2-3-4 DOES move, and when it calls for detergent to dispense, if I put my hand on the dispenser motor, it DOES hum.

Where do I go from here? I feel like its something simple and I am missing it.

My 19 3.5EB (45k miles now) just recently starting idling really rough. The only thing I have done differently is started using Sheetz gas ((87 octane E10)). 87 octane and E10 is literally all I have ever used. No Check Engine light or other weirdness. The rough idle is obvious and noticeable. Anything I should check/do? Are these things *that* sensitive to fuel that changing to Sheetz gas would cause it?

My '19 has a stiff-er than I am used to brake pedal - is this normal? Is the brake modulation different and I am just not used to it? It stops, and stops good but just is a harder to push brake pedal and seems to hit a spot where it wont move any more I just have to push harder on it. I have 44k miles. Suggestions?

I'd never be one to really admit to this having always kinda scoffed at people on the internet arguing back and forth about what brand of oil is better, etc... but after changing my oil the other day in my 2019 3.5EB and putting in Castrol Edge 5w30, Omg is the engine quieter and seems to idle with so much less vibration. Before it was just kinda.... thrashy sounding, started when I had the dealer change the oil - NVH was so much more noticeable that I checked the oil level as soon as I got home, thinking it was severely underfilled from the Dealer. Welp, AINT going back to them!

In the meantime, is there a common oil the Dealerships use for oil changes? I cant imagine they are dumping Motorcraft in. Probably whatever bulk oil they can get their hands on cheaply??

Since I bought my '23 TRD ORP brand new, I've always had steering wheel shake. Tire balancing, new tires, etc. Nothing fixed it.
I found my grease gun today and had a new tube of the Red & sticky grease to put in it so at 23,000 miles now, I decided to crawl under and see if the zerks had been greased my the Dealer- nope! Doesn't look like a grease gun EVER touched the zerks.

After greasing all the u-joints and slip joints, I went for a test drive. My steering wheel shake is gone. Any drivetrain noise when shifting between P-R-N-D is also gone, it is so smooth now. I wasn't sure about greasing the u-joints so I did it right until the old grease started to come out the caps, then stopped. Admittedly there was a lot of popping and air escaping so I know they were probably kinda dry. Should I go back and add more grease until the new grease comes out the caps? (This is what I am reading out on the web). Your opinion?

So did I ruin anything by going 23k miles without grease? I just assumed the Toyota Dealer was doing it (stupid me). I started doing my own oil changes lately so I won't ever be going back now!

Stated my weight loss journey on Eli Lilly. Worked great. Lost the most of my weight on this regimen (2.5mg, then short stint on 5mg)

Switched to Refills (prorx). Worked ok... lots of "meh" weeks. Eventually titrated up to 7.5mg because I stalled. Stopped losing any weight. Every time I'd inject, my lymph nodes would hurt for 3-4 days. I did not feel the effect as much. I was worried I would need to titrate up to 10mg.

Recently, I filled my script through Fifty410 or whatever its called and received Apothecary, started dosing at 6.75mg per their recommendation. Holy crap. This is totally different than prorx, in a very good way. This is much more inline with the Eli lilly I was taking. I can tell you already I am "back on track". No sore lymph nodes either.

Is this a phenomenon that I experienced that others have too? Did I get bad vials? Is there something different with how prorx is formulated vs. other brands and maybe I just dont respond well to it? What is going on here?