u/Bobson1729

I'm sorry if this is an elementary question, but I have tried adjusting my print fan settings, number of vertical perimeters, perimeter speed, print orientation, and chamber temp and I am at my limit. I need the sharp edges for the model, so rounding them isn't an option.

The first set is printed with the wide surface down. You can see that the walls collapse inward. It looks to me like it is trying to warp off the bed, but the adhesion is holding.

The second set is printed upside down with supports. Here, the overhang edges are bulging outward. (The one that is particularly bad is when I simply shut off the print fan altogether)

The last set is also printed upside down with supports but here you can see the warping at the corners of the top surface.

Ultimately, I will be printing these in Prusament PCCF, but I want to get the settings better so I don't waste the PCCF on bad prints I need 12 of these (with some variation in the model).

I am printing these with a closed vent and 40-45C chamber temp because I thought the uneven cooling might be to blame. The PCCF will have to be printed with these settings anyway.

Thank you for your help. This has been driving me crazy for weeks.

I'm troubleshooting a problem I have with overhang edges not being sharp when printing in PCCF, so I made a model specifically designed to test it. I know there are many test models out there, but this tests edges through overhang angles from -75° to 75° and along both concave and convex faces. I also think it looks kinda neat.

www.printables.com/model/1748747-edge-overhang-tester

I have a deformed octahedron. I would like to further deform each of the 6 lateral sides toward their respective attractor points on the hexagon while keeping the edges where they are. I would like to make this as smooth as possible.

My thought is to generate a point cloud for each lateral surface and measure the UV distances from each point to the nearest point on the edge and the UV center. Then, take each point and move it proportionally toward the attractor point and generate a new surface. This seems rather complicated, however, and I was hoping there was a more natural way to do this.

Thanks for your help!

I need an m3 washer (or nut) that looks like this. I have no idea what it might actually be called.

The bore can be m3 threaded or not since the shaft it is on can rotate freely. Threaded would be preferred, though.

To give you some context, I have a 5v linear actuator and I am creating a click-pen type mechanism which will make the actuator shaft toggleable between extended and contracted.

Thanks for your help!

Hey folks. I'm working on an alternative top for my Core One INDX. As you can see, I don't have a lot of space and I need to utilize the top for my Chitu Dryer. I used 8 universal profiles and designed a frame and corner pillars. I will have acrylic panels on three sides and the fourth will be an acrylic panel which will vent (rn I'm thinking of utilizing the hackerboard for this). On the top sits an aluminum board with the Chitu Dryer on the back half. The front half on the top I'm working out, but this is where the bowden inputs will be. I will probably use a half box (made of acrylic) with the entry points just below the Chitu lids. The new top is much shorter than the official tophat and I can easily reach the Chitu boxes without a step stool.

Anyway, just wanted to share.