Wasn’t sure if it would work but I reached out MacSema and they hooked me up with a few deactivated contact memory buttons. They even included some 3m dots to stick them on instead of having to grind and jb weld them on. They don’t do a damn thing but look cool.
I posted a comparison of the fixed mount version a little while ago here, but the roto is the most commonly run version and I happened to end up with a mint authentic one, so was a good opportunity to point out a few differences on these as well. The Somo body is compatible with genuine WMX200 heads and tailcaps, meaning someone could swap those parts onto a Somo NAVSEA body and pass it off as an authentic NAVSEA WMX, which I actually almost got screwed on during my search for the authentic one.
The Somo rotational version shares all of the same differences as the fixed mount version, with a few additional tells listed below (can also be seen in photos):
- The NAVSEA logo is slightly different.
- The head to body transition has a larger gap on the Somo version.
- The two holes on the bottom are slightly smaller on the genuine light.
- The genuine body has a faint mount seam running through the top of the NAVSEA logo, the Somo does not.
- The Somo’s finish on the roto is even more noticeably smoother and glossier, while the genuine body has a flatter, more textured appearance.
- The data matrix is a bit smaller on the Somo.
Like I said in the first post, the Somo is a pretty close clone of the original, but it isn’t quite 1:1. That said, the Somo absolutely beats the authentic WMX’s ass when it comes to light output. If I ever come into a large sum of money, maybe I’ll pick up another genuine one and do a full torture test comparison.
Pic of the rifle it would go on for attention. It’s always one of the last parts you need that’s the hardest to find.
I’ve had a hell of a time trying to find a clean Tanodized G33, so I’m starting to consider having a standard tan G33 Cerakoted to sit in as a placeholder until I can eventually track down the real thing. Has anyone here gone that route? Would be cool to see pictures of how they turned out and hear who you used to get the closest match to the original tano finish.
Almost clone correct other than the MK18 FSP RIS II, RC2 and prototype Green laser peq. Wanted to make this one a bit different though. Still searching for a Tanodized G33 to finish it off…
Upper:
Colt C Stamped Cerro Upper
Colt 10.3” C stamped Crane Spec Barrel w/ F marked FSP
Colt C Stamped Teardrop Forward Assist
Colt FA C Marked BCG
Daniel Defense FDE MK18 FSP RIS II Rail (Real not a chop)
WMX 200 Navsea Rotational Light (authentic, not Somo)
Prototype “Reverse chocolate chip” PEQ
Insight FDE Dual Pressure Switch
CQD Gen 1 unmarked Front Sling Mount
KAC 300m Big Knob Rear Sight
SureFire 4 Prong NSN Flash Hider
SureFire FDE RC2 Suppressor
TangoDown Stubby Vertical Grip
PRI Military Welded Big Latch Gas Buster Charging Handle
Eotech Tano SU231/PEQ
Lower:
Colt SOCOM Gov M4A1 Lower
Colt Trigger Guard
Colt H2 Buffer
Colt FA Ambi Safety
Colt Takedown Pins
Geissele SSF Trigger
CQD Gen 1 End Plate
LMT 6 Position Buffer Tube
LMT Tan Gen 1.1 SOPMOD Stock
KAC Stock Sling Mount
Black Ergo Grip
Words of caution, chasing after rare clone parts is worse for your wallet than drugs. Everything on this build is authentic, the rail is a real MK18 FSP RISII and the Light is a genuine rotational navsea marked WMX200. The rarest part of all is probably the reverse chocolate chip prototype green laser peq. Had fun building it though so that’s all that matters.
Recently picked up one of these awesome units for my MK18 FSP RISII “Demo” CQBR, and just trying to figure out more background on them as it seems info is extremely sparse and it’s a pretty interesting unit. I’ve found that there are units that start with serial “825” that are 25mw vis and 100mw IR and then there are units that start with the serial “800” that are <5mw Vis and 45mw IR (matching FP PEQ15 specs, other than the green laser). I picked up the later version. All seem to be manufactured MAR09.
Long shot but anyone here know any info about this prototype program? I included a photo of someone in AWG fielding one, but sadly have no clue which version they had.
Have been diving into this for a bit now and just heard back from CQD, they let me know they still have originals from the first batch and directly from them: “From our first batch we had the logo on them. There are quite a few knock-offs around.”. So for the 10 people who care, this is their official position. I did find some blurry pics from 2008 that show front mounts with what looks to be a logo, but so many images from forums have been removed so pretty hard to get reference photos from the early days.
Finally got in a tan gen 1.1 Lmt stock, Navsea Roto WMX and a Gen 1 front and rear CQD endplate, now just need to find a Tano g33, Surefire RC1 and decide if I want to do an LA5 or something else for a lam and then this build will finally be done. Loving how it’s turning out though.
Anyone know when the different versions of these were made and which years each version is correct for? As far as I understand (and I could be wrong), the logo without “KAC” is a rotational one while the one with the “KAC” marking is locking. Part: 98722. Getting into the weeds here but cant find much info.
Some pics from when I got her at 9 weeks until now.
Does anyone know how many of these were made? I figured it’d be relatively easy to find one but they actually seem to be impossible to find now, even when offering double the going rate of $150. Where are you all finding yours at? It was significantly easier for me to find a tan gen 1.1 Lmt sopmod than one of these. It’s the last part I need for a build and quickly becoming the hardest to source.
PRI recently released their welded mil big latch with the original markings if anyone has been looking for one. I have for a while so it’s cool to see them actually catering to the clone community, comes with the clone tax though. They have both the pat pending engraved solid latch and the laser engraved pat pending version with cut out.
Curious what others thoughts are on this, I’m building out a rare parts Block II CQBR that is a bit of an oddball (will be outfitted with a DD MK18 FSP RISII) and chock full of other rare stuff like Navsea roto WMX, Navsea La5e, Tano g33, etc. I have two extremely clean uppers to choose from. A raised C AF upper and a Stamped C keyhole upper. I know the stamped C would probably fit the time period a bit better as it’s a 2013ish build, but the raised C AF just seems like it belongs on an oddball build, and has more of a “cool” factor to it. If you were being dumb with money like I am and building this out, what would you pick?
Recently got my hands on an authentic WMX 200 and a Somo clone WMX 200. The DOM Somo was trying to replicate is within a few months of my authentic one, so I figured it would make for a solid comparison.
As you can see, the Somo is extremely close. It’s hard to capture on camera, but the color isn’t quite right. The Somo has a deeper bronze tone and the finish is noticeably shinier. The feel is different too. The Somo is much smoother, while the authentic has more texture to it. The Somo is also noticeably heavier. On my kitchen scale, the authentic came in at 142 grams while the Somo weighed 165.5 grams. You can definitely feel the difference in hand.
The physical differences are a little harder to spot, but they’re there if you look closely. The biggest giveaway is the light itself. The Somo uses a visible square LED, while the authentic has a diffuser or bulb like cover over the LED emitter. The thumbscrew knurling is also different, with the authentic having a much more aggressive pattern. The Somo logo is slightly larger as well and looks a bit bolder compared to the authentic.
There are a few other small differences that can be picked out in photos, but overall it’s a very convincing clone.
I’m technically building a non correct variation of a Block II CQBR since I’m using a RIS II MK18 FSP rail, but I still want to stay as close to a proper Block II CQBR as possible.
My barrel options are:
- Late 90s production Colt factory 10.3” gov profile barrel, C MP marked
- Cut down 14.5” crane spec gov profile barrel
- Current production cage code factory 10.3” gov profile barrel
- Current or early production 10.3” SOCOM profile barrel
Out of those, which would be considered clone correct? I’ve seen a lot of conflicting info on whether factory 10.3” gov profile barrels were ever used, so I’m trying to straighten it out.
Parts build. Colt m4a1 gov lower, Colt C stamped Cerro forge Upper, authentic DD RisII MK18 FSP rail.
Picked this up a while ago and not sure whether or not it’s factory done, aftermarket, or fake. The logo has a little depth to it. I know Kac does sometimes do little odd runs of stuff, just can’t find any info on whether they’ve ever done taupe guards before.
Poor 8 month old Nova is going through it, she had her two lower canines removed because they were base narrow, two retained upper baby canines pulled, plus two extra impacted teeth that she shouldn’t have had, removed.
Any reference photos of them being ran on block II? Have a C stamped one on my current build but unsure if it’s considered too “old” for a block II cqbr.