This isn't a situation of just one or two links for a topic.

An entire subject's matter is completely missing from StartPage, despite it having Federal, State and international case history that is active and ongoing (slowly).

Here's Startpage:

StartPage

Not one of those results is relevant to the search. There are no more results.

Here's DuckDuckGo:

NoAI DuckDuckGo.

Every result is spot on relevant, and there are tons of them, as expected. The search query is what someone that was curious about the person having been mentioned "hey, search for this" would realistically search for. The results exclude "Samantha" because there are very few mentions of that person (who is/was really the mistress) outside of social media past stuff, which generally doesn't return in search results.

In other words, the DDG search best represents what would have more weighting due to how much information there is that mentions the term "Russell Armand" and disregarding the others to lower priority results. Exactly as a search engine always has behaved.

We don't think the subject is the problem.

For example, if we tweak the search query:

https://preview.redd.it/unq987t8n1th1.png?width=1302&format=png&auto=webp&s=71df68e7b828ea854459dd95cb5c5cd81bf22910

All of a sudden it's finding tons of stuff.

This means Startpage is treating the terms as an explicit "AND" rather than an implied "OR" where whatever part of the query holds the most weight, drives the return result.

The problem is that there doesn't appear to be an obvious way to override this behavior. Google (which we don't actively use) offers advanced search options to do exactly this. The other engines seem to understand it by default.

First of all, respeck to Anker for this (although it should have been there day one, frankly).

Being able to fine tune this setting is a standard need across the board.

The only note we have: terminology is too technical.  Some folks are nerds, majority are not.  At minimum, give some simple visual use cases for the various settings, and even better, give some suggested levels.

This inspired us to share our main use case.  Everyone will have different needs, there are no wrong answers, and it really does depend on what you need the thing to do.

Redundant/contingent power

We have an EcoFlow Smart Home Panel 2 with ~28kWh of directly connected capacity, plus ~36kWh of separate available capacity (used to help offset drain when there are high consumption periods...basically the peak of summer - AC/dehumidifiers - and peak of winter, the steam humidifier).

At some point we want the E10 to primarily serve the house, but we've not yet figured out how to do so in a way that doesn't lose the EcoFlow investment (and frankly, EcoFlow's app is vastly superior to Anker's, plus it already gives circuit level control and fine control over charge speeds and levels, which is a requirement).  

The E10 currently has 12kWh of capacity.  We do like being able to have it completely outside; how it handles winter will tell us a lot about it.  So far it's handled oppressive heat without blinking, which is impressive.

For now, the E10/Smart Inlet Box is wired to the Smart Home Panel 2, with the backup on the generator side (since the Panel already has an interlock).  We have not had a significant outage, certainly not like 2024 which was ridiculous, but plan to do an outage test this weekend.

The way we then use it is as follows:

• The EcoFlow equipment run on a fixed schedule that is aligned with TOU but has more rigor in when things switch over.  This means the EcoFlow powers during peak and recharges during offpeak.
• The E10 waits at 100% charge for when it needs to be called into action.  Currently, the only time we do is when the EcoFlow capacity gets to a certain level low.
• With the way the E10's SoC works, if we leave the backup level at 100%, it won't try to do anything.  If we drop the backup level, it will power loads until it hits the level, then draw from grid to keep itself topped.  This is the desired behavior - it should not tap grid until specifically needed, because we can't control charge speed, and it's too aggressive in how it draws from grid.  That's a problem if you only have 100a service and already happen to have high demand at a given point.
• If we then disable the EcoFlow batteries (only the batteries), and drop the E10 backup level, the E10 seamlessly takes over powering the loads. If we raise the backup level again, it basically acts as a passthrough.
• With circuit level control we can then decide if certain circuits should or shouldn't get access to that power.

The test, which is this weekend most likely, is whether or not this negates the need for the generator side.  In other words, can the E10 power circuits directly as it currently does when the actual grid isn't available?  Because if it can do that, it means the perfect middle ground: not having to manually trip interlock but still have access to redundant power.

Our goal won't match your goal.  Most seem to want to go off-grid.  Opinion: while doable, it wasn't worth the time or investment, vs. just a simple outcome, which is to (A)minimize the electric bill, (B)have a redundant source of power if one of the two needs maintenance/upgrades or goes down, and (C) be able to scale effectively infinitely, regardless of any one vendor but without having to hack together 5+ Victron appliances.

If we don't run the central AC, dehumidifiers or steam humidifier (steam humidifier is basically a requirement.  At some point we plan to put a supplemental 120V one in on a relay that's a bit less hungry but not as effective), there's enough capacity to run for at least 2 weeks, plus a propane generator in the absolute extreme worst case.

Summary

The SoC setting being pulled out of "self-consumption" is a good start. There still need to be scheduling and other controls to allow finer management of the device; but clearly they're trying to make this useful for various use cases.

EDIT: There are too many people IGNORING THE WORD TEST. It's a TEST. If it cannot perform the function under the worst possible use case, we cannot trust it under simple use cases. Get it?

If you advertise it can perform as a UPS, it's got one job - keep power ON long enough that the connected device doesn't cut off. It doesn't matter WHAT device it is, it could be a server with the same draw. The point is made.

We can't say for sure whether it was the device in question that was drawing power, or the amount of draw.

What we can say, is that it didn't do what we think it should. It basically did the same thing that DELTA Pro does. Which isn't expected.

For this test, a 1200W microwave was currently running (a microwave that ends up spitting out roughly 1900W of juice when it runs).

If the grid is active, the 3 Ultra uncomfortably throttles the voltage to where the microwave might as well not even be putting out heat. Which isn't ideal. If grid is not active, the 3 Ultra will happily take up to 4kW.

This inspired a quick test. And the results were unfun.

When grid was deactivated during the microwave active period, despite a full, healthy UPS bar, the 3 Ultra shut off the AC outlets and threw some sort of red screen error (didn't catch it). After about 15 seconds, everything came back up and again and behaved as normal.

What we expected to happen, is that it would make use of the throttled voltage (Which put it perfectly in the breaker amperage range) to then quickly switch over to battery, then remove the voltage throttle. That didn't happen. Which means it cannot (in our test at least) be relied on as a UPS under load.

Fortunately, this serves the kitchen, which doesn't specifically need UPS; but a power outage while things are running is a perfectly logical situation that now is a bit uncertain.

EDIT: Issue resolved. Root Cause/Solution information below.

Problem

The E10 in backup mode wants to keep pulling from grid when it shouldn't need to (it's fully charged).

Even if it were basic monitoring, almost half a kW is excessive for basic monitoring.

We can disable that circuit virtually; but then it screams about a grid outage (which technically is true as far as it's concerned). But we'd rather not do that and simply have it not eat up unnecessary amounts of juice during onpeak hours.

Root Cause

The instruction trifold shows a visual that gives the impression that the PV transformer should be connected to an upper right dual pole breaker.

The electrician didn't read the fine-print instructions that specified that it was only for PV (roof-top solar), not just a specific breaker in a specific slot. The breaker he connected to was to a subpanel (load); so E10 was double-detecting current from that leg (the subpanel has a constant minimum of ~200-300W).

Summary

Once the transformer was removed from that breaker/unpluged from the PV slots in the Smart Inlet Box, the Anker now plays perfectly fine with all other devices.

EDIT: This is resolved. While the message did briefly throw it didn't last long. It's still including its own draw which is an issue. We still need the ability to control the recharge speed. It's a basic feature, and it's there on the standalone side. Copy the same app code over to the System side = done.

Problem

When recharging this error gets thrown.

Theory

We think it's saying, "hmm, we're pulling X from grid but Y is going to home load circuits" (which is accurate).

This is because some of the grid power is being routed to other batteries via means other than outlets or specific circuits in the panel.

Question

Can we get the Anker app to stop caring about it?

It's charge mode. It doesn't matter whether there's more grid or not. During charge mode, it should only care that it's getting back what it needs; in this case it's Time-of-use mode, so it shouldn't be doing any discharging in any case.

Reference post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ecoflow_community/comments/1cygb8x/delta_pros_finally_blew_up_with_the_121_error/

One of our two DELTA Pros (which were what we started the journey with the Smart Home Panel 2 on) went kaput with the same error; initially 110, then 121. Burning smell, like the aftersmell post-firecrackers with a bit of burning plastic.

EDIT: We at least seem to have identified the root cause - though it's illogical for an advanced BMS.

It seems that Error 121 means, "I've overcharged".

We were working to try and discharge the unit in anticipation of sending it back. This error though blocks the AC ports from disabling; however, the cool thing about DELTA Pro (First Generation Pro Series) vs. Pro 3 (Second Generation Pro Series), is that the DELTA Pro, just like the DELTA 2 Max, treats its battery ports as (basically) a DC connection. Meaning it bypasses the inverter completely. The Pro 3 only supports DC with Extra Batteries, but not other devices.
We happen to have a WAVE 3 as a supplemental device. It can power either AC or DC, using the xt150 port (the one used by the DELTA 2 Max). With a Generator Adapter, the DELTA Pro can also power it. Which lets us run the WAVE 3 to run the DELTA Pro completely down.
But we noticed something odd. At 1% the screen estimated 3 minutes remaining. 6 minutes 30 minutes later and it's still sitting there discharging (UPDATE: it took 48 minutes to finally shut off from 1% at a 300w continuous drain!). Which can only mean that it's completely confused about its own capacity; which could only happen if it overcharged somehow. But a BMS shouldn't allow that to happen; it can damage the battery and its own internals. Smoke smell, anyone?
Given this finding, we're going to let this thing run until it finally does shut off - then power it back up to at least confirm it resolves the issue. We still don't trust the unit to run stuff though; but it might help others who come searching.
EDIT 2: We got the 121 error to go away by using a standalone 51.2v battery (?). However, DELTA Pro won't accept charge from that unless it's under load (which is the part that doesn't work). It then went to a 008 error, which we can't even find online, and wouldn't accept any charge. Basically, the driver that powers the hardware is FUBAR'd, meaning it's going to be a replacement if (when) you get 121.

We had shifted these two guys to backup the sump pump and dehumidifier...until all three DELTA Pro 3 units 'failed' with 036 ( failed in quotes because, they still 'worked' but at a loss of 4kWh each). Then we returned those and put the Pros back to duty on the Smart Home Panel 2 with the Double Voltage Hub while we wait on the electrician to consult on getting the E10 configured.

Everything was fine until it wasn't. All they were doing was recharging as usual.

One unit is still apparently okay - ironically, the one that gets the most abuse (it handles the bulk of the only split-phase circuit).

But what this then means, is that there is no longer a logical use case for the Smart Home Panel 2, as one unit cannot run both legs, and we're fresh out of units.

So...our plans are now changed.

Rather than trying to keep the Smart Home Panel 2 engaged as a secondary, we'll just have to swap full stop over to the E10. This recent failure basically means nothing to lose.

We covered this error extensively with the DELTA Pro 3.

It triggered based on connected solar; and we knew firmware had something to do with it.

Ultimately, we couldn't continue. So we're back to the DELTA Pro x2 with Double Voltage Hub until we complete our transition over to the Anker E10.

We had escalated as high as could be. It took weeks. EcoFlow offered a firmware "in 10 days". We couldn't wait that long.

Now, it seems (apparently) they might have done something.

https://preview.redd.it/3s3hj7y3qodh1.png?width=1530&format=png&auto=webp&s=9490e322a86aa6fdffeac4f917e5e318134f9038

EDIT: for those who don't get quotation marks, that is a DIRECT QUOTE from Anker. If you disagree with it, call them.

Meanwhile...That's a lot.

It frankly only really matters overnight (assuming you have and can get solar energy to offset it) - but it's a lot, for standby usage.

It affirms our (CTR) original theory: the E10 was directly positioned for those wanting to use the Power Dock or Inlet, not really the AC input method (which might at times be temporary).  Begs the question of the why the AC Input is provided at all.

To stress: at some point, our unit will be connected via the Smart Inlet Box.  There are other things that must be completed before that work can start; and in the meantime we saw no reason not to make use of it as a standalone, solar-only AC device to keep the car batteries charged up when the cars aren't in use.

But this level of leech means we'll have to adjust our strategy from what we originally intended; it won't be viable, logical, sensible or practical to have additional 200W of arbitrary draining every month on top of regular house use (which is base 200W constant across all circuits).  Especially since solar is a moving target.

EDIT: It seems some "reviewers" don't understand how to test. We blame Anker; because their app is part of the problem.

Everyone testing is working under the presumption of having either inlet or Panel, so they're using "System", which for whatever reason, doesn't have this issue. But those people ARE NOT DOING THE RIGHT TEST.

Not recommended; at least in this mode.  There are some fundamental problems that seems to point to a singular assumption of the device use case.

What Works

• Being able to take H4/MC4 connections directly from solar is not only good, it's more reliable than an xt60/i connection; this is probably the main sell point.
• Having a solar shutoff switch built-in is safety 101 and should be applauded (how "clicky" and rigid the switch is isn't so good; feels low budget, but still)

What Doesn't Really Work

• The coating on the housing scuffs way too easy. They should have done some sort of clearcoat or something to protect it.
• There's some sort of LRA-type surge when plugging into AC that trips GFCI fairly reliably; if the charge speed is set too high, it'll never get past it. It has to be set to the lowest (400w), let it trip GFCI, then reset GFCI, then it sticks even if you increase it. Not sure why that makes any sense. We tested with two completely different circuits and had the same issue on both.
• The app. It's too rudimentary. Even AI would do a better job.
  • The battery charge level will go from 0% to 9% in less than a few minutes; then takes an hour to get to 20%, then won't hardly move from 21% up despite the charge speed (visibly) unchanging (we have it set at 1000w), and we confirmed the circuit is pulling around that amount. For a 6kWh capacity, the speed of charge shouldn't be anywhere near this slow.
  • No visual status for the solar switch or AC output presence.
  • Unable to schedule AC input or output.
  • No TOU options (apparently this requires hard-wired-grid via Power Dock or panel; but it shouldn't matter how the thing is connected just to have basic TOU scheduling features.)
  • Can't access all functions if you create a 'system' without deleting and resetting up the device in the app.
• Leeching/draining when nothing is drawing power from it. We had nothing connected, nothing on (the light was off, the AC Always On was off, etc.); the only thing active was solar; and overnight it went from over 30% to 0%. That's a problem. It (likely) means the MPPT is a power hog. That'd be fine if we didn't need to walk up to the device to disable solar input or had TOU options to turn the MPPT completely off when we know there won't be sun anyway.

Summary

It's clear and apparent this device was purposely designed to function against the Power Dock/Panel, not as a standalone unit. That's fine...but because they offered an AC output accessory, it gives the impression it shouldn't matter.

We do plan to have it set up against Power Dock at some point (we have the Dock, waiting other work). But it's disappointing we can't rely on it as a standalone, off-grid device in the meantime.

And that dullness is due to the lack of decision to flesh out the secondary supporting cast.

While everyone raves about overpowered Calamo (and he is)...it's disappointing that nobody is calling out Sholani as the most fun to use.

Clearly inspired by Kunoichi (Samura Warriors 1 version, the best version), which is probably what makes her so fun to use.

But the issue is, unlike said Samurai Warriors (Which also had lesser known secondaries), there's just no real focus on the secondaries here; they're just along for you to pick from.

People say musou is just stupid fun.

Those people never played Dynasty Warriors 2-6, or Samurai Warriors 1 or 2, Dragon Quest Heroes 1 or 2 (especially 2), Persona 5 Strikers, Fire Emblem: Three Hopes or even Gundam. Musou games almost always had some basic story; not the focus but it was there. It enhances the experience and makes it less boring.

People say they like the first Hyrule Warriors the most; the problem is no voice acting, a bizarre decision. And it feels generic in comparison to what came after it despite it being written closer to the actual series.

Age of Imprisonment has intriguing story beats...but they're held back by the game not knowing what it wants to be.

Reference this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnkerSOLIXCommunity/comments/1tuf2xi/solar_charging_anker_solix_e10_batteries_fails/

Comments seem to imply that the E10 has some sort of "minimum" solar input in order to register or care about it.

That's not abnormal; usually if it's sub 50w.

But if it's a 200w or greater panel that's getting 100w or so, presumably it would use it.

That's the question: is the E10 hardcoded to only accept super solar; if so, what is that minimum threshold?

Problem

For no clear reason the DELTA Pro 3 suddenly refuses to accept solar via the HV input.

Context

This is a 2-panel, 400w each, series connection.  15A, 72v (36v x 2).  Well within the specs we see for HV. According to EcoFlow's documentation the units should simply throttle the incoming if it happens to exceed; but the DELTA Pro 3 shows as 150V/15A 1600W for HV.

Two of the three DELTA Pro 3s are still functioning, although "Izquierdo" had a solar-related issue where it again refused to charge (at all) only when the solar was connected to it.  It took a full reset to get it back on track.  Reminder: Izquierdo is a brand new replace, Centro is a refurb.

"Derecho" - the only unit of the three that was replaced as a brand new unit and has NEVER had a firmware update, has happily been running without incident (fancy that).

So the theory is that either the hardware is defective, or some firmware screwed it up.  Not sure which - only to say, the one running old firmware hasn't had a single problem to date.

Taking the exact same xt cable from Centro and plugging into either other unit, works fine.  It's ONLY Centro having the problem.  So it's not the panels and it's not the cable.  Process of elimination.  That's the nice part about having three of the same exact unit - it's way easier to identify what appears to be a defect that isn't related to the setup.

Sharing just in case people come searching - ultimately, it just firms up the decision to shift solar over to the SOLIX E10 and figure out how to get stuff done that way.

We have multiple links - won't waste your time.  Suffice to say: we have a heavy EcoFlow footprint and exposure to Support.

Bottom line is this.

• The Smart Home Panel 2 is amazing when it works (assuming it's installed properly).  The problem is that it doesn't feel well thought out with flexibility - you configure one type of unit and it can't seem to flex around different configurations hardly at all, and randomly freaks out over tiny stuff for no clear reason.
• DELTA Pro is a beast of a unit.  We bought two units for the Smart Home Panel 2 at first (which requires the Double Voltage Hub, yet another ill-planned product), then ressigned them after we got the Pro 3s.  One Pro serves as primary (during onpeak hours) and supplemental (in case of a main outage where we need to conserve the Panel's capacity in the event of a major storm) power for the sump pump (1HP), the other provides power during onpeak for a basement dehumidifier.  DELTA Pro also handles power outages better than the 2 Max, but doesn't handle being plugged in while under load well at all if the load amount is more than 1.2kWh.  It just overloads.
• DELTA Pro 3 is also a beast, but we're not fans of the solar.  LV feels underbaked and random.  Also the plugs tend to slowly come out over time which could cause arcing (haven't experienced that yet) and they're picky about how much wattage comes through.  Random weird errors we've covered over time that caused two replacements.

Given the above...we did order up the SOLIX E10 with the regular dock. It will tie to the main panel as the primary power source and receive all of the solar we can throw at it (the single E10 takes in way more solar than all three EcoFlow DELTA Pro 3 units combined).  Over time we'll sell off two of the Pro 3 units and capacity up the E10 until we reach the same.  

We'll keep a single Pro 3 with the Smart Home Panel 2 as a subpanel combo, so we can keep circuit-level control on the cheap (not common but helpful) plus redundant emergency power and support for the existing Dual Fuel Generator at least until we get Anker's 5500 generator and get it tapped into natural gas.

This guy runs the kitchen.  Yes, the whole kitchen.  There's simply nothing like being able to run a high wattage microwave and an air fryer and a coffee maker all at the same time.

But because it runs the kitchen, it's a low risk to update, because at worst we can just plug into the outlets (which aren't optimized, but we do have two circuits we could use in a pinch).

Ever since we purposely stopped doing firmware updates, the three DELTA Pro 3 units that are on the Smart Home Panel 2 have been running without incident (fancy that).  So we just stopped doing them full stop unless it's a low risk unit, like the small DELTA 3 that runs the curios cabinet lighting and an air purifier.

EcoFlow has (finally) started giving actual release notes on its firmware, which is a start.  Clearly they're trying to get better, so kudos for that.

We're still going with the Anker E10 as the main battery once the garage work is done, if only because it takes a LOT more solar in than the EcoFlow units can plus supports natural gas on its generator, can be outdoors and can be wall mounted; all of which are net positives.  Tried waiting on them to open market the OCEAN Pro, but clearly that's not what they want to do.

But we'll still give kudos for them at least trying to get better.

Most recommendations focus on the cool stuff. We're dumbing it down.

• Quiet operation (when we say quiet, the quieter the better. If it can sound like a whooshing breeze it's top, but we understand it won't get THAT quiet)
• Does not require a cell phone (or any mobile app) for a screen (meaning whatever controller comes with a built-in screen)
• Can handle strong-ish winds (sometimes 30mph, sometimes slightly higher, sometimes slightly lower, but seemingly constant)

It's not even about the price. These are the critical path features. Everything else is nice-to-haves.

Any suggestions?

Horizon: Zero Dawn in a sentence:

"Well, these machines are out of control because >!we made them too strong, they'll suck all of the life out of the planet, so we'll basically all die but our DNA will re-establish us after this command that takes forever finally executes to kill the machines."!<

Horizon: Forbidden West in a sentence:

This group said, "why not just...you know...>!use that same code, go to another planet that's safe from the destruction and colonize there?"!<

In other words...what was deemed impossible, wasn't.

Obviously, Forbidden West tried to explain this away with the whole >!"ships destroyed en route" segment and "not enough ships"!< - which unfortunately got unraveled by the final third of the game (the worst of it, arguably).

Zero Dawn establishes that it's terribly easy for Faro to create machinery; that money is a non-issue, and that he largely works on his own authority without check and balance.

Forbidden West establishes that he had enough tech to create a >!physical bunker that was able to fully insulate him from what happened outside!< (which frankly makes no logical sense) even without Sobeck's expertise.

And Sobeck >!making it all the way back to her farm intact AND remaining there preserved created yet another plot hole, if Sobeck's warning about "all life" (including water and air) being sucked off of the planet. !<&amp;nbsp;>!If the suit was robust enough to survive the catastrophe, they can fabricate AI that can fabricate life, but can't generate air and water from their basic elements and have no oxygen reserves from, say, extended deep sea exploration missions and/or space travel? (Which Faro would have to have something in his tomb).!<

It's like somewhere along the way, writers were like, "huh...yeah, if we do that, it won't make any sense though...so...what do we do?" &amp;nbsp;And just started making stuff up.

Then we lost Sylens (the actor, RIP). &amp;nbsp;Which basically makes doing a third pointless given >!the cliffhanger ending where a sequel would have to build upon the last thing he said in Forbidden West.!< &amp;nbsp;The best they could do would be a prequel - which makes no sense as an action game unless you treat it like Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines.

Summary

Forbidden West, as written, shouldn't have existed as a standalone. &amp;nbsp;It should simply have been a DLC exploration to a new segment of the same world, same as Frozen Wilds. &amp;nbsp;None of the extra contradictions. &amp;nbsp;Just more exploration of the same basic concept and expansion of the same map.

>!Faro's Tomb should have been abandoned; just a husk with nothing there but left behind recordings to help explain where he was. !<&amp;nbsp;>!Even have one that shows the Zero Dawn "incident" from his perspective, maybe one where he's getting chewed out by military, maybe one where he tried to reach Sobeck but couldn't, etc.!<