How long does it usually take to receive a financial aid award offer post-FAFSA submission?
I know the waiting period for USU to receive the application is 3-5 days. But after that, how long does it usually take for USU to review the application and decide how much aid I’m eligible for?
Hey all, I’m in a pickle.
I totaled my car. I need a new one. With it comes some hard realities about what the used market is and what I can afford. I can’t afford a truck.
SUV’s and Crossovers are viable in AWD configurations, but they’re substantially more expensive to maintain than my old jalopy of a battle wagon.
Unfortunately given my budget and where I live, if I go buy a gas car what I’m really buying is the history of a car, crossover, or SUV and immediately entering low-high mileage (80k miles generally). Looking at what’s out there reveals impending repair bill doom: transmissions, big engine repairs, etc.
But, EV’s with AWD don’t hold value. At all. Problem is: I’m not on a county team, I’m on a statewide team, and I don’t want to be fucking around at a level 2 charger when I need to be getting to IC. You’ve got the rural aspect too - if I go anywhere without access a vehicle recovery bill is substantial enough to void the maintenance on gas cars for an entire year.
Do any of you use EV’s to respond to searches? What are your thoughts on this rabbit hole?
All,
I can’t get ahold of my claim rep. My app is indicating that the estimate for my car has been completed, and repairs have started. The website says that an adjuster is reviewing damage, and repairs have started. I have not received a peep from Stare Farm about this yet.
What is even stranger is: my car is worth, at most, $7k. KBB says it’s worth $3k. The repair estimate for the car is nearly $6k. So I’m a bit confused to say the least.
How would the app or website display a decision about declaring my car totaled or being repaired?
If it was to be repaired, would I be contacted by my rep at all?
Is this just what the app and website say while a decision is being made about as to total the car or not?
Hey all,
Where do you get your hay for your horses and how much are you paying? I’m trying to find a new person to buy from.
I recently got the stainless guide rod and 15# spring from CGW for my P09F.
However, when I racked my slide a few times after installing it, it squeaks quite loudly. It’s not the slide on the rod, it’s definitely the spring sliding on the rod (I took it apart and compressed the spring on the rod to find that it’s contacting the rod) is causing the squeak.
Is this normal? I’ve never had a recoil spring + guide rod squeak like this.
Hey all,
I’m modernizing all of my teams communications. Radios, GPS, and now I’m also integrating CalTopo. CalTopo is new to this team, and it’s been met with some resistance.
The problem I’m running into is this:
A few people on the team are refusing to use it. They don’t want it on their phone outright, and are unwilling to use it.
I was wondering if y’all had any testimonials in how CalTopo has helped you successfully coordinate and operate in field to maximize positive outcomes?
I’d like to pass these on to help pursued them to use the app.
If anyone here has any advise on convincing people to use this, that would be fantastic, because I’m out of ideas.
Hey all, I’m thinking about swapping my P09 Nocturne over to a manual safety but unfortunately the manual safety levers are just too narrow. I can’t actuate them without breaking my grip. Even more unfortunately, unless I custom make my own (which I’d prefer not to do but totally can if need be)
With this being an Omega gun, can I use the safety from any Omega gun? Ex.: can I put a 75B Omega safety lever on my P09 Omega since the internals are the same?
I know I’m grasping at straws here, just trying to find some off-the-shelf solution before I contemplate making my own.
Hey friends, I’ve decided to take the time to start planning out a Wurl trip. I’m not really sure what to expect there, but here’s the situation:
I am not an ultra marathon athlete. If I were to do this, I’d hike it. The problem is I’m not entirely sure if that is safe. I figure it would take me two days (one night) to do.
The problem I’m running into is: in reviewing the terrain and route, I’m not entirely sure where I can sleep safely. Kinda what I’m seeing right now is:
On day one get to Alta’s upper parking lot where I can setup a way station there with some family for a re-up on supplies, sleep the night near the upper lot but far enough away from traffic I won’t be bothered.
Now since I have some involvement in emergency services, I’m deeply aware of just how fast and how wrong this can go. Especially at the Wurl. So I’m trying to make “oh shit” plans for where I can setup emergency shelter.
I’m not really concerned about being a route purist - I’m just trying to find two other places to setup an emergency shelter. One somewhere near mile 10, and another near mile 20. I figure no matter what the upper lot at Alta is a good half-way point.
This is because if this hike takes longer than projected for any reason, I’d like to have a point I can get to and stay put for a night without trying to push through dangerous terrain in a dangerous state.
Anyone got any advice?
I recently finished cajunizing my CZ P09F. I purchased kits individually in the order I felt was needed, and eventually was left with a fully cajunized P09.
Here’s the deal: cajunizing a P09 is remarkably easy, but it looks really hard for people (like me) who prior to doing this had never taken a gun apart beyond a basic field strip for cleaning. So long as you can watch the Cajun Gun Works disassembly tutorial, follow along, and take it slow, you’ll be fine. Cajun Gun Works themselves actually have a support line and very, very, very kind and knowledgeable staff there to help you.
P09 F writeup:
There isn’t a whole helluva lot to write home about with a bone stock P09. I like to say it’s the Glock of the hammer fired world. The trigger leaves a lot to be desired but is perfectly serviceable. It’s plagued by a “rolling break” feel and a long reset, but it’s not bad to shoot. It’s stupid accurate, and it shoots pretty soft, and I’d attribute that to it being nose heavy over a low bore axis; both do you favors.
With the factory hammer and reset the gun still shoots faster than me.
Cajunized writeup:
Cajunized, the gun changes in totality. The trigger goes from what CZ states to be 4.5 lbs, to what I think is 2.5lbs. Double action has been reduced to ~7 lbs. The reset length is knocked down by 30% at least. The rolling break is gone and in its place sits a trigger with a very defined wall and a very, very clean break.
I do think that 2.5lbs as a duty gun is light, but given 2011’s do exist in the tactical space I’d say it can be a duty gun. There is a way of tuning this gun that allows it to sit at that 4.5lbs trigger whilst retaining the short reset and defined trigger pull. My current understanding is, you keep the factory spring for the plunger OEM, and use the “natural” sear spring in CGW’s tuning kit. Since the short trigger reset kit requires you use their firing pin, keep the spring they have on that on.
These components transform the gun into a very well defined, very fast, easy shooter. Now the real question is:
Should you do this?
Up to you. I would advocate that you do if you want. I did it because I wanted a gun to compete with that could serve as my backcountry and home defense gun.
To me that meant reducing the mass of my double action pull by a reasonable amount, making my single action trigger heavy enough to not be a liability, shortening the reset, and having a crisper trigger.
Now if you want double action but didn’t realize just how heavy the factory double action pull is… then install the Pro Spring Kit with a lighter main hammer spring. You can get the double action oull weight down to as little as 5lbs if you want. I kept mine at 7.
I was frustrated by the “meh” trigger that I wanted to get something nicer. I had a few thousand rounds through an echelon before this, which I sold for this gun, so I really did think the trigger was underwhelming.
If you want a noticeably nicer feel to your gun, then get the pro kit and install it. Or do what I did and buy it in chunks as you can afford it. Buy the kits! Don’t buy individual parts! Last thing you want is to have your gun in pieces and be missing a part.
Either way, you should upgrade your roll pin and trigger return spring to increase reliability especially if you dry fire!
Comparisons:
The trigger feels like a guissle 2-stage AR trigger, the reset is similar to the M&P 2.0 (the hinged trigger that was sent for military contracts with the P320), the pull weight of a Kimber 2K11 DS Warrior. The double action is just a really long 7lbs pull. Recoil recovery is very similar to an Echelon.
Performance gains:
The reality is I shoot a fair amount. Not as much as pro’s, but about 2,000 rounds per year and probably 4-5x that in dry fire.
The mechanical accuracy of the gun will not change. If you can’t shoot the gun stock modifying it won’t make the difference you want. But it absolutely can disguise some of your skill because with all the lighter springs in there, it requires much less user input which makes the gun more forgiving to shoot.
With all the CGW goodies, I have noticed that the gun requires much less effort to shoot both accurately and quickly.
Is it a 2011?
Hell no.
Is it nicer than a Shadow 2?
Yes but also no.
The Shadow 2 is heavier and from factory has a lighter DA pull and about the same SA pull. It has space for a full sized optic, too. It shoots flatter, the recovery is faster, and it feels marginally smoother.
The P09, when cajunized, does 85% of what a Shadow 2 will do. 5% is it will never look as cool, and 10% is the performance gain you’re getting from the mass of the Shadow 2 + full sized optic optic cut. It is leaps and bounds nicer to carry, and it is substantially easier to work on. Further, a Shadow 2 at my LGS is about $1,200. A P09 with the pro package and a DIY install is $830. With a nice enclosed optic you sit at $1200 ish.
I was recently at a competition where I was able to shoot someone’s 2011. It was a Staccato of some variant.
I compete with a moderately cajunized CZ P09F. Short of the short reset upgrade, everything else is done. So it’s a pretty forgiving pistol - the double action is a balmy 7lbs, single action is 2.5lbs. Reset is long but the gun is still faster than I am. All in all, it’s a slick shooter.
I was watching a guy who was talking a big talk with his 2011 and realized: his groups didn’t look a helluva lot better than mine, and this was my first competition, which got me wondering “can 2011’s really buy skill?”
So after the competition was over, I asked him if I could go to the part of the range that wasn’t closed for the competition and try out his gun. He was kind enough to let me, and while doing so he sent some rounds down range with my CZ.
Boy howdy let me tell you… I get the hype now. The cadence was fast, recovery was fast, the trigger + mass of the gun let me stack rounds with ease. It felt like there was no reason to miss, and I didn’t. First time I tried a new gun and shot it better than a gun I have well over 1000 rounds on. It ripped. The gain was marginal, all things considered, but it was evident. At 20 yards, slow fire, single action, with my CZ I can shoot a 2.5” group. With this I shot a 2” group. When I shot fast, the recovery was faster but the accuracy was the same, and the triggers short reset let me go way faster than my CZ with minimal effort. It just felt easier to shoot in general.
Will I buy one? No, I can’t justify a $2,000 pistol. My CZ does 90% what that 2011 will do, and it has cost me half as much.