Got these for a couple bucks because I couldn't pass them up, and now I have no idea what to do with 30 of them. Would you use them for anything more useful than a pretty chandelier?
I want to upgrade the antenna on my Crux35, but I'm not sure if I should go for the "micro UFL RHCP" antennas, as I'm pretty sure those are for tinywhoops. I already have a Lumeneir AXII on my Mobula, and it certainly is a tiny little antenna, and I'm not sure that would be much help on a larger quad.
However my problem appears when I'm looking for Normal Sized RHCP antennas, the UFL versions are always like 6 inch whips connected to the antenna, instead of ~3 inches.
Any recommendations?
I'm a noob self-learner, and I'm slowly getting the hang of the basics, but some little silly things are still tripping me up.
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This is a NOR gate I drew in Falstad simulator.
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My specific problem; I don't completely understand why this 200ohm resistor placement matters as much as it does.
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In my head, I can't seem to work out why current would not choose the path of least resistance and go through the transistors when they get 5v and the LED has its own resistor. Instead, current only chooses the transistors when both the LED *and* the transistors have the same input voltage coming from the same resistor, rather than the LED getting less voltage than the transistors.
I received a 2x stereo objective from AmScope, and it is immediately noticeable that there is some form of binocular misalignment. Looking through the scope, there are 2 very obvious black circles fusing into each other, rather than one single crisp black circle. Adjusting IPD does not nearly fix this issue, and it certainly isn't a diopter problem. My 1x doesn't have this problem, so I know it's definitely the new set.
Is there any easy way for me to fix this using the collimation screws? I don't possess any fancy equipment for collimating, I'm just a guy with a stereo microscope.
Just replaced this HDMI port on an Xbox. Every pin that can be tested with a multimeter has been tested, and continuity appears correct. The pins are securely soldered down to the pads, and none of the pads were torn or lifted.
However, plugging into a TV gets the indicator that "An HDMI device has been detected", but I can't seem to get any video output. This tells me that 5v and HPD are working, but that's the end of my knowledge, and I'm not sure what else could be incorrect.
Do any of you experienced repair folks have any advice about this? Thank you very much
I've tried a thick chisel tip at 365°C with a flood of flux and some unleaded solder, after this wasn't working I just went to the hot air gun. Had it set to 350°C and 40% airflow, had it at 365°C and 50% airflow. I just can't get this port off for the life of me. I don't want to ruin this board, as it's not very replaceable, but I've heated it and let it cool a couple times now with zero luck.
It's clear that I'm not getting a very good heat transfer from the iron, so the hot air station is the obvious next move. But if this can't get it either, I'm not sure what to do now
The rest of the solder melts and wicks up just fine, but I'm left with a flat spot now. Touching the flat spot with the iron just scuffs it under the microscope, and it doesn't seem to melt no matter how long the tip is held. Any assistance would be nice.
Thinking about getting a bench for simple basic hobby use. Not sure how *actually* useful a bench really is, and if size does matter for this.
Particularly looking at this $40 bench, with measuring tools, several lenses and a lamp. It is 19.8" long, and I'm not sure if this is too short, as it sounds like it's a very short/limited use bench.
Any insights would be nice, thank you.
Recently learned that single player wind speed is for some reason much lower/inconsistent as opposed to multiplayer.
I hear you can set the wind speed to never change, this way you don't have to deal with the inconsistencies and can just have a steady speed of 7 for example.
How to do this?